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RUST

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Gary Brooke:
Hi folks
Just got back into the shed after a long layoff. To find that I had a major visit from the rust monster. Thankfully the lathe is okay just a bit on the cast iron chuck. same with the pillar drill. The real damage is to the BMS parts off my B1 loco and stock off metal.So I'm looking for salvage advice. Also would it be advisable to heat up the shed to drive out damp before firing up the lathe.
Rgds Gary

zeeprogrammer:
I'd be interested in this too.
It would also be helpful if people chime in with suggestions for when you know your machines won't be used for a while. How to cover, protect, etc.

Rustkolector:
Gary,
For mild rust, citric acid (small amounts found in the canning section of grocery store) works well, but requires immersion for a few hours. Also, any commercial rust removal product or concrete etch product based on phosphoric acid can be used on heavier rust. It dissolves only the iron oxide and should not affect the base metal finish if diluted. Degrease and test a patch first to determine dilution rate. It might turn black, but cleans up with warm water and a brush. Electrolysis is used most often by antique restorers, but requires total immersion and extensive set up.

Jeff

philjoe5:
Ive used this product on engine parts, like cooling hoppers and cylinder jackets and it works very well

http://www.evapo-rust.com/

I don't know if it is suitable for precision machinery but I understand it doesn't attack the base metal

Cheers,
Phil

rklopp:
+1 on the Evap-O-Rust, but it's expensive. I used it to restore a 1943 Delta drill press that was rather rusty on all the steel parts plus the table. The rust really disappeared, leaving a dull gray finish typical of unfinished steel. I only have to keep the surfaces lightly oiled to prevent re-rusting, because I live in dry California that is even drier due to a drought.

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