Author Topic: Southbend Screwcutting clutch  (Read 33364 times)

Offline steamer

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Re: Southbend Screwcutting clutch
« Reply #30 on: January 19, 2014, 08:57:58 PM »
I think the feed rod will need to be carefully thought out so I don't have to disassemble various bits to get the standard tailstock off and put the bed turret on.    That said, it will probably be mounted to the side of the lathe bed independent to the bed ways.   Maybe on the sides of the pedestals...?

We'll get to that in a bit.   The design should proceed from the spindle out.   

Dave
 

« Last Edit: January 19, 2014, 09:12:56 PM by steamer »
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Offline Graham Meek

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Re: Southbend Screwcutting clutch
« Reply #31 on: January 19, 2014, 09:21:21 PM »
Hi Dave,

Thanks for all the information, the design is well under way as the South Bend mandrel gears are only one tooth smaller than the Myford ML7 mandrel gears which are also 20 DP & 14.5 Degrees PA. I have been able to use the ML7 clutch components with a little modification here and there. As these are known to work components things are going to proceed fairly quickly.

Hi Jason,

You could quite easily use the attachment for boring or turning to a shoulder, but one thing you must not do is change the RPM once everything is set. An increase in RPM will alter the trip points, it is to do with the momentum of the carriage, I found this out the hard way on the Hardinge HLV.

My best regards
Gray,

Offline steamer

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Re: Southbend Screwcutting clutch
« Reply #32 on: January 19, 2014, 10:04:29 PM »
Excellent!....this will be cool, all the flexibility of the South Bend and threading capabilities of the HLV.

I'm digging it!

Dave
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Offline steamer

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Re: Southbend Screwcutting clutch
« Reply #33 on: January 19, 2014, 10:18:37 PM »
The other thing that is nice is having a feed stop for long cuts.  I can potentially go do something else and let the feed clutch stop things.

Dave
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Offline Bezalel

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Re: Southbend Screwcutting clutch
« Reply #34 on: January 20, 2014, 02:15:17 AM »
Yeah! I'm getting a visual on that Dave
 
 
 :facepalm: Ahhh... did I tighten the stop clamps???    :hammerbash:
 
Bez
Queensland - wet one day, humid the next

Offline steamer

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Re: Southbend Screwcutting clutch
« Reply #35 on: January 20, 2014, 03:09:36 AM »
Well....you always check your set up ....right? 8)

Dave
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Offline Bezalel

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Re: Southbend Screwcutting clutch
« Reply #36 on: January 20, 2014, 03:46:22 AM »
Of course,
 
I'm just thinking of the days when Seņor Moment and Al  Siemers drop in for the day.
Queensland - wet one day, humid the next

Offline steamer

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Re: Southbend Screwcutting clutch
« Reply #37 on: January 20, 2014, 03:57:35 AM »
YUP...and that can happen with or without a clutch!..... :LittleDevil:


Dave
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Offline Stuart

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Re: Southbend Screwcutting clutch
« Reply #38 on: January 20, 2014, 07:24:25 AM »
Dave
It's looking good for Samanther with Gray able to use a proven design in the new design for you

Better get the gear cutting gear ready for some work


Stuart
My aim is for a accurate part with a good finish

Offline Graham Meek

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Re: Southbend Screwcutting clutch
« Reply #39 on: January 20, 2014, 08:21:15 AM »
Hi Dave,

Could you possibly measure the gap between "Face A" and the change wheel cover, (closed position), when the tumbler reverse gear is not in situ. Also can you give me the vertical distances from the central detent hole as to how big the aperture is up and down, nearest 1/64" will be fine.

While you have the tumbler out can you measure the radius of the detent hole face relative to the tumbler bore for me please, I am hoping to make the unit pivot so that you have an "out of engagement position" should you ever need it.

Just to whet your appetite here are some of the components for the ML7 version.

My best regards
Gray,


Offline steamer

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Re: Southbend Screwcutting clutch
« Reply #40 on: January 20, 2014, 11:58:05 AM »
Hey Graham,

See attached....best I can measure at the moment.


Dave
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Offline Graham Meek

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Re: Southbend Screwcutting clutch
« Reply #41 on: January 20, 2014, 12:27:24 PM »
Hi Dave,

It is fine, I just need clarification on one dimension, you have 1.125 shown from the edge of the cover aperture, is the other edge the centre-line of the detent holes or to "Face A"?

Also what is the driving key width in the change wheels?

Drawing work going well so far, "I have not quite painted myself into a corner" but it has been close.

My best regards
Gray,

Offline steamer

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Re: Southbend Screwcutting clutch
« Reply #42 on: January 20, 2014, 12:40:59 PM »
The vertical face in the drawing continues down the front of the gear box cover.  Ther is a additional cover mounted concentric with the gearbox input shaft that interfaces with the swinging cover, and it is flush with the vertical face on the drawing I have above.

The other dimensions I can get this evening.

Dave
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Offline steamer

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Re: Southbend Screwcutting clutch
« Reply #43 on: January 20, 2014, 01:27:57 PM »
Center line of the center detent hole.

Dave
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Offline Graham Meek

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Re: Southbend Screwcutting clutch
« Reply #44 on: January 20, 2014, 07:26:49 PM »
Hi Dave,

Would you check the gap as per the first sketch for me please, I make it 0.550", (I am hoping I am wrong and it is bigger)

In order to route the Trip Rod along the back of the bed, I need to plot where the tumbler hole is in relation to the corner of the bed. Also I see there is a bracket that holds the Change wheel Guard, I need to know if there are any gaps available and also how far down the locking screw extends as we may have to pass beneath this.

Do you have a photograph of this end of the lathe that is square onto the machine? A picture paints a thousand words. (or can anyone else help out?)

My best regards
Gray,


 

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