Pipework

[smfr]

I'm getting to the stage where I have to think about pipework for my Stuart No. 4, and, not having done any before, have no idea what I'm doing

I think I'd like flanged pipework, so would I silver-solder the flange parts onto some copper pipe? Does anyone have any pics of unsoldered flanges bits so I know what they look like? Would I be using something like a BSB thread to fit the pipe to the flange?

Also, should I get the copper pipe that I see in the hardware store (for hooking up water lines to refrigerators and the like), which looks like it might be a pain to straighten out and may not be thick-walled enough, or is there a source for straight lengths of pipe? Is there a formula or table that tells me what pipe diameter to use for intake and exhaust? I know I'll have to do some pipe bending, and I do have some idea about how to approach that part

Many thanks!
Simon

[doubletop]

Sorry - I've no idea how big a Stuart #4 is but I'd have through refrigeration/plumbing would have been a tad over size.

Try and find s supplier for these products. They do smaller guage copper tubing, make your own flanges or glands/nuts etc

http://www.ksmetals.com/resources/Catalog_2011.pdf

hope that helps

Pete

[Jasonb]

I find air con, refridgeration and domestic plumbing pipe too thin a wall, better to get a thicker walled tube from a model engineering supplier that way you can cut a 40tpi thread on the end and screw the flange to that so it is held while you silver solder it.

The thicker wall does bend easier without kinking but with flanges you should be using flanged elbows which are really too tight to bend so best done with modified plumbing elbows.

Stick with the inlet as per the drawings and take the exhaust upto the next size.





J

[Bogstandard]

Here in the UK, we can buy coils of copper tube in the normal sizes, 1/8", 5/32", 3/16", 1/4" (or metric equivalent) and even larger, used for brake pipes and such on classic cars.

I normally buy in 10 or 30 metre rolls, and is much cheaper and softer than the stuff you buy from model shops, and it is also guaranteed to exceed any sorts of pressure we are liable to encounter. Bending is a doddle using just a basic half round wheel type of bender as annealing isn't normally required.

I like to make all the flanges up first to a standard shape to what is required on the model, then silver solder them onto the end of the pipes. Some people like to thread, for true scaling, but I think at the scales we normally work at, silver soldering is much easier to do, and doesn't look out of place.

John

[mzt]

Simon,

I've straightened, then bent and threaded some hardware store copper pipe no more than a few days ago, here's how I did it and how it came out.

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,295.msg3512.html#msg3512

HTH
Marcello

[mklotz]

Not copper but PMR sells brass pipe...

http://www.pmresearchinc.com/store/home.php?cat=43

I've used it and like it.  One advantage is that it doesn't dent easily.

I know that, in the past, I've bought model copper pipe from the K&S displays in hobby stores.