PMR Horizontal Boiler - A Riveting Build Log

[Maryak]

Hi Stan,

Nice job on the boiler. 

For flaring I use a dead centre and a not so gentle tap with a hammer. Yours is much more elegant.

Best Regards
Bob

[sshire]

Bob
I had thought about some type of tapered punch but PMR's tool keeps the tubes in position with equal stick out at both ends. How did you keep yours equal?
Since I've already made the flaring tools from the drawings I'll use them but other techniques might be useful for other projects.

[Maryak]

Hi Stan,

My way...............steel boiler......... tubes are rolled into the tube plate at eyeball equal sticky outy so there should be no lateral movement. Then whack!

Copper boiler.........tubes are soldered to tube plate so no lateral movement. Then whack!

Of course this method was developed after years of expensive research and a full risk analysis carried out which led to the development of a safe operating procedure....................and if bull dust was gold I'd be a millionaire.

Best Regards
Bob

[sshire]

Bob
Thanks for the detailed explanation 
"Whack!" is a technique I've used at times (primarily on my old BMW)

[b.lindsey]

What a great tutorial you are presenting here Stan. Will certainly come in handy when I get around to making my PMR vertical boiler. You are providing incentive for it to move up the build list as well

Bill

[mklotz]

Nice tutorial, Stan.  PMR kits are popular (for good reason) and I'm sure future builders of same will really appreciate your detailed photos and explanation.

I've mounted a small drill press vise on a ½" plate to put in the bandsaw vise but that was not quite making it.

Gee, I wonder where you got that idea?  :-)

[NickG]

Yeah great write up Stan, thanks for that 

[Don1966]

Stan I am enjoying this, like Bill said I have a vertical boiler in waiting. So keep up the good work bud we are learning here.

Don

[sshire]

More Enjoyment.

On to setting and flaring the boiler tubes.
The drawing shows the tubes at 8" long (assuming you have set the end sheets at the correct depth) with 1/16" stickup at each end for flaring. I measured and, astoundingly, the 8" length will be correct.

After milling one tube to length, I set up a table stop and made quick work of the other four.



The high helix end mill did a nice job on the copper tubing.



A brief detour to make the stays and the stay nuts







Another brief detour to drill a hole in the steam dome top. Note the precise leveling setup.



Now, on to the tubes. All cleaned and ready.



Both ends stick out about this much.



The flaring tool is mounted with the taper in each end of the tube.



A wrench at one end and a 3/4" socket in a ratchet at the other and both ends are flared.



Now both ends of the tool are turned to the spigot side and more turning and ratcheting.







So the boiler is now ready for soldering.



Best,
Stan

[mklotz]

You do such neat, precise work.  I'm envious.

[Bearcar1]

Great work, Stan    You will be building up a head of steam before too much longer. I'm looking forward to your hand water pump build in the meantime though. 


BC1
Jim

[Tennessee Whiskey]

Stan, great build. As I have the vertical to build I'm really watching. By the way, pardon my manners, the lens help really helped. Pics are great, do you have experience?

Whiskey

[b.lindsey]

Stan, it just keeps getting better. Up until you last update, I hadn't realized that the flaring tool was multi purpose, both flaring the tubes to seal against the sheet holes, but then also pressing them down or rolling them over to beef up the joint. Many thanks for the fine pictures and write-up!!!

Bill

[NickG]

Really like the fact that it is all held together and an't move before soldering. With it all being the same melting point solder you'll have to be careful not to remelt joints already soldered. Not sure what the instructions will say but maybe start at one end and fairly quickly work along heating only once?
Something I am surprised about is the way the tubes were flared. I thought they were done before turning the tool around, now it has actually split the tubes which am not sure was necessary but presumably those are the instructions so it's by the book.

[Jo]

Stan,

Call me a bit of a worry pot if you like but this is a boiler and cleanliness is next to godliness (and the boiler inspectors' heart), I am getting worried about that marking blue being under the dome where you might need solder to provide a bit of chaking. Are the joints tight enough? A couple of those rivets still seem proud. Are you asking the solder chalk to do too much? Filling the gap and overcoming the dirt (marking blue).

I just don't want you pulling your hair out because of it...Says she who's last boiler could have watered the garden when it came to the initial "did it hold water test"

Jo