Author Topic: Pacific Vapor Engine from Morrison & Marvin Castings  (Read 213198 times)

Offline ScroungerLee

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Re: Pacific Vapor Engine from Morrison & Marvin Castings
« Reply #45 on: January 29, 2013, 06:04:39 PM »
Nice techniques, well explained.  I appreciate your posting this!

Lee
Mmmmm.... Shiny!

Offline Dave Otto

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Re: Pacific Vapor Engine from Morrison & Marvin Castings
« Reply #46 on: January 30, 2013, 01:15:38 AM »
Thanks for the comments guys; I appreciate them.

With regards to the shaper; I guess where there's a will there's a way. Before my buddy purchased the shaper I had though about doing it in my mill. The bulk of the material would have been milled with the side of an end mill; body mounted on an angle plate. Then tool bit in a holder would be put into the spindle and use as a slotting attachment to clean out the corners. With light cuts and care this will work.

I have a 3hp Falk side shaft engine that I have been restoring and when I made new eccentric straps for the fuel pump and ignitor; I used this technique on the rectangular pockets that were for the retainer plates. I think steel might be a bear but the cast iron cuts pretty freely.

I had also thought about having a local shop do it on their wire EDM; not cheap but it would have been painless: the other suggestions are also good. I know there are more than a few of these engines under construction at this time and some of them are being done with out the use of a shaper.


Bill, posting these pictures and updates has been fun and a bit of work. Going back through the pictures and putting the posts together for MEM; one tends to forget how much was accomplished last year in his spare time. It will be nice to get caught up to the current work being done (although not much lately) so I can say this is what I did this last weekend.

Thanks for the kind words; I'm really happy with how the engine is progressing.

Dave

Offline Dave Otto

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Re: Pacific Vapor Engine from Morrison & Marvin Castings
« Reply #47 on: January 30, 2013, 02:39:29 AM »
Hi everyone

Here are the pictures of machining the main bearing bores in preparation of pouring the Babbitt bearings.


This is the set up in the mill to drill and ream the main bearing bores. I was originally going to bore them to size but I had a ¾” reamer so chose to use it instead.


After the upper bearing was opened up to ¼” a long center drill was use to spot the lower hole using the upper one as a guide for the drill.


Stepping up through the drill bits and using the quill power feed the bores were opened up to 23/32” which was the closest drill I have to the ¾” target.


Again using the power quill feed the ¾” chucking reamer was passed through the bores.


Nice finish from the reamer; but I will probably rough the bores up a bit (sand blast) to give the Babbitt some tooth.

The next step will be to do some profiling on the castings to make the bearing caps line up with body casting. Then on to pouring the bearings.


An endmill is used to machine the sides of the saddles down to match the caps. Due to the way the core is made the bearing saddles have some draft that needs to be removed.


A ball endmill is used to rough in the reliefs on the flywheel side of the engine.


After an afternoons work using files burrs and emery here are some shots of the result.
1st With the bearing caps removed.


And a top view.


Here is a before shot of the flywheel side bearing.


And after.


Here is a shot of the governor side.


And finally a couple of shots of the major parts.


Standing at a little over 15” tall she’s starting to look like an engine!

I’m very pleased with how the bearing castings turned out. Now I just need to get some Babbitt poured.

Thanks for checking in.

Dave
« Last Edit: July 06, 2017, 01:10:04 AM by Dave Otto »

Offline zeeprogrammer

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Re: Pacific Vapor Engine from Morrison & Marvin Castings
« Reply #48 on: January 30, 2013, 03:00:03 AM »
That sure looks good Dave.

I'd asked this in another thread but the question was missed...

I've seen several references (as in your post) about stepping through a drill set to get to a desired size.
Why is that rather than drilling with the desired end size?
Thanks.
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Offline Dave Otto

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Re: Pacific Vapor Engine from Morrison & Marvin Castings
« Reply #49 on: January 30, 2013, 03:18:57 AM »
Hi Zee

It is just a matter of chip size you wouldn't want to shove a 3/4" drill through a piece of stock in one shot; unless you had a monster radial drill that would eat 3/4" drills for lunch. So if you step up through the drills maybe a 1/16" or 1/8" and a time your reduce your chip size and hopefully end up with the proper size hole and in the place you wanted it with out killing your machine or tooling.  For production I guess you could really push it; as far as the step sizes go; but for what we do it is not necessary. 

I have a pretty good index of Silver & Deming drills up to one inch; so when I need to drill a big hole I just grab a few between 1/2" and where I need to be and go after it. Not to scientific but I hope I answered your question.

Dave

Offline DavidF

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Re: Pacific Vapor Engine from Morrison & Marvin Castings
« Reply #50 on: January 30, 2013, 05:37:18 AM »
Mental note to self,   Never ever sell my shaper.....

Offline swilliams

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Re: Pacific Vapor Engine from Morrison & Marvin Castings
« Reply #51 on: January 30, 2013, 10:32:29 AM »
Count me down as another big fan of your build Dave

I'd love to build one of these one day. Fortunately my machines aren't big enough for the job and if that's not a legitimate excuse to get some bigger stuff what is?

Steve

Offline metalmad

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Re: Pacific Vapor Engine from Morrison & Marvin Castings
« Reply #52 on: January 30, 2013, 10:41:40 AM »
Looking fantastic Dave
Pete
A little bit every day, sometimes the same little bit

Offline zeeprogrammer

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Re: Pacific Vapor Engine from Morrison & Marvin Castings
« Reply #53 on: January 30, 2013, 11:46:34 AM »
Thanks Dave!
Carl (aka Zee) Will sometimes respond to 'hey' but never 'hey you'.
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Offline b.lindsey

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Re: Pacific Vapor Engine from Morrison & Marvin Castings
« Reply #54 on: January 30, 2013, 01:40:36 PM »
Those last two pictures really show it off Dave!!  And the pictures and documentation in general are excellent....looking forward to following your progress on this one.

Bill

Offline Chris J

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Re: Pacific Vapor Engine from Morrison & Marvin Castings
« Reply #55 on: January 30, 2013, 02:31:34 PM »
All I can say is wow.  :ThumbsUp:

Excellent build only matched by your pictures and explanations.  :)
Don't believe everything you read on the internet - Abraham Lincoln.

Offline Dave Otto

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Re: Pacific Vapor Engine from Morrison & Marvin Castings
« Reply #56 on: January 31, 2013, 12:30:08 AM »
Hi everyone,

Thanks for all the kind words; I appreciate it.

Here is the path I went down to pour the Babbitt crank bearings; I spent most of a Saturday prepping and pouring then got the machining finished on Sunday


Starting out some Babbitt anchors were machined into the bearing caps and saddles. The caps were pretty straightforward using a 5/32? endmill the anchors were drilled about .08? deep.


For the body I modified my main cap drilling fixtures to drill the anchors using the 10-32 tap drill. By counter boring the fixture the shoulder on SHCS was used as a drill depth stop.


Here the fixture is set up on the body casting.


And the drilling in progress.


Here the four anchor pin holes are drilled and ready for the next step. I really should have drilled these at an angle to give the anchor pins a little more holding power. Everything worked out ok and I don?t think the bearings are going to go anywhere.


Aluminum shims (.040") were cut and placed in the reliefs for the bearing caps; there is still some of the relief available to locate the main cap. These shims will create the parting line of the bearings.


Aluminum plates were cut and placed over the inside of the bearing bores. Then they were held in place with a bolt and nut used as a jack screw.


Here is the assembly ready for the Babbitt damming clay; the shims were left about .125" long so extra Babbitt could be poured to cover the shrink as it cooled.


Babbitt damming clay is applied around the bearing bores and up to the height of the shims. This will allow more Babbitt to be poured than is needed for the shrink as mentioned above.


Here is my melting setup; this nice propane stove my brother got surplus from his employer and the cast iron bottom pouring ladle was an eBay purchase.


The Babbitt is warming up to 800 degrees F. and will char a pine stick when inserted. Also the bearing castings are preheated with a propane torch to remove any moisture.


Sorry I can?t shoot and pour at the same time. But here is one of the bearings just after pouring.


After both bearings have been poured the center plates are removed; looks pretty good.


The damming clay is removed from the outside of the bearings.


After cutting the excess Babbitt down to the iron casting the caps are removed.


And a closer shot of the body.


Now some shims are needed to be able to adjust for wear in the future. I first punched the hole and then trimmed the inside edge with sharp scissors.
Then the hole was aligned the hole in the bearing cap and the outline traced with a sharp scribe.


Then the shim is cut out using scissors.


Here is the punch that I used to punch the holes in the shim. These are a little on the pricey side but sure work nice. It also has pilots and can be used to punch shim washers.


And a nice little pile of bearing shims.


The shims are placed on the upper parting surface of the bearing caps.


With the shims installed and the caps tightened up the body is set up in the mill to drill and bore the bearings.
I used pretty much the same drill as before (no pun intended). Center drill, drill and bore to size. Again the upper bearing was opened up to .25" and then it was used to guide a long center drill for the lower bearing.


Stepping up through the drills the bore was opened up to 19/32".


I made an adapter to use my 3/8" solid carbide insert boring bar in the boring head. This worked well except I had to run it pretty slow to avoid chatter.


Here is the finished bore; some hand work and secondary machining operation still need to be done.


I?m happy to report that the crankshaft does fit in the body and turns. It is a little tight and has no end play but these are problems I can deal with; better than too loose.

Thanks for checking in.
Dave
« Last Edit: July 07, 2017, 12:55:16 AM by Dave Otto »

Offline swilliams

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Re: Pacific Vapor Engine from Morrison & Marvin Castings
« Reply #57 on: January 31, 2013, 01:10:43 AM »
love the babbit bearings Dave. Are they mostly tin or mostly lead?

Steve

Offline Dave Otto

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Re: Pacific Vapor Engine from Morrison & Marvin Castings
« Reply #58 on: January 31, 2013, 01:23:43 AM »
Hi Steve

Mostly lead with a little tin and antimony; my buddy used to go to a big machine shop here in town that pours and machines very large bearings and they would let him pick up all the bits and pieces from around the melting pot. He poured many hit and miss engine bearings out of those scraps. So I don't know the exact alloy but if it was good enough for a 14" bearing in an industrial plant it will probably be ok for my little engine.  :)

Thanks,
Dave

Offline black85vette

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Re: Pacific Vapor Engine from Morrison & Marvin Castings
« Reply #59 on: January 31, 2013, 03:22:04 AM »
Love seeing the real babbit bearings done.   It is one item I decided against on my Cretors.   The original engines used babbit.   

 

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