Project Vulcan

[crueby]

And for pads that have other parts on top of them, the countersunk screws could be hidden under the parts, no need for filling/blending them in.

[Sanjay F]

Ah yes good points on using CSK and not being seen as they are covered as well as using the JB for the fillets 

"Should the CL of teh flywheel be above the plate? I would have thought you need it to clear the flywheel and have it's side close to the "pit"

Yes, thanks for spotting that, what I have drawn clearly wouldn't have worked!!  Now where's that eraser gone........

Then onto ordering some metal:
 
1/8" plate - What is an nice size for the bigger bottom ? 5mm larger all round from my drawing dimensions
1/4" plate - To the measurements I have on the drawings
1/8" pieces  - To make the pads (probably have most of that)

[Sanjay F]

The tear down started and everything is bagged and tagged. There are a lot of dome headed bolts used and some made of brass which were tricky to remove witout breaking. The cylinder/piston was covered with grit which has now been cleaned out. The painted items are being bathed overnight and it'll be interesting to see what they look like without there garish colour.

I'm thinking the cylinder would look nice with some wooden lagging and brass banding, I'll have to see whether this can be accomodated

The bedplate new from Reeves costs £124 plus £10 delivery! I might stick it up on eBay and see if anyone wants it 

[Jasonb]

The one with the hold down bosses along the sides was 1/8" overhang at the ends and 5/16" at the sides to accommodate the bosses. The simpler one where the hold downs go through the thicker plate were 1/8" all round.

You could use car body filler or Miliput for the fillets as both are easier to shape than hardened JBW

[Sanjay F]

Thanks I'm going simple, I think I ordered 5mm all round so not a lot in it.

Miliput, now there's a name I've not heard of before - I did an experiment with JB Weld and as my wife's a bit of a dab hand with silicone on tiles, she gave it a go, she did a pretty good job! (see photo)  - however she's not over keen on the smell so maybe Miliput has a sweeter fragrance 

[Jasonb]

She has done well

Milliput is a much thicker putty. You can roughly apply it to an internal corner and then run a ball ended tool that has been dipped in water along the corner nuch like your wife may do with a wet finger to smooth silicon. The excess can then just be scraped off before a final wipe with a wet artists paintbrush. I use the Superfine White

[Sanjay F]

That's looks like a very neat job indeed; I did wonder about getting a smooth finish around corners, ball ended tool!

I've ordered some on Amazon, cheap enough too 

[Zephyrin]

The vulcan is a very nice model.
as far as I can see, the steam ports look not great, and I hope that their positions are correct.
I did one as one of my first "made from castings" engine for a change with "brazed pieces of brass" model.
my model has the aluminium base, not that ugly, that cames with the castings, but which isn't shown in the drawing, just a layout plan.
In my opinion, the cantilevered large flywheel is a bit unrealistic in this model.
 
she is steamed at some club meetings, and here for a personal meeting during the pandemic !

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-8TE0IWk_GA" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-8TE0IWk_GA</a>

[Sanjay F]

Very nice, looks like you have the pump fitted too. The base is okay, I'm changing it so I can fit an outrigger bearing which I quite like and I've found a video of one with an outrigger fitted

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfqT6hlKUgM" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfqT6hlKUgM</a>

I too think the flywheel is a bit 'different' front the norm.

I have been wondering about this soldered on piece of metal and what it has been hiding and the answer is absolutely nothing; its been put there to stop the eccentric pin scraping/striking the frame! A rather unsightly modification, so I have removed it and will see what's what when I rebuild it.

[Sanjay F]

The grand cleanup continues.......

I've decided on having a combination of paint and exposed metal throughout so I'm not just cleaning off old paint but rubbing down the original surfaces which will be visible; I think it'll be worth it and you can already see the difference in the parts which have been done compared to those that haven't

Looks like its made of rose gold to me......hmmmmm   

[Sanjay F]

After a few more days the cleanup is nearly done; just the suspension links are left to go then the rebuild can start. The thing with this part of the restoration is it doesn't just make everything clean and sparkly but reveals the problem areas and/or places which could do with a bit more attention.

Before the rebuild can begin I'll need to make the base.........

[Sanjay F]

Materials for the base have arrived just as I'm closing the shop down for week due to work committments  Looks like the pieces will need to be squared off and bottom 2 layers fixed before measuring, cutting, fixing the raised sections.

EDIT: the materials cost less than 1/10 of the price of the Aluminium casting inc. cutting to approx. size and delivery .....starting to see the merits of making things from scratch! 

[Sanjay F]

A day off work and steady progress on the new base. Started by making the bosses and ensuring they fitted each part which they will be mounted onto, followed by squaring up the base and marking it up. The bosses were then super glued to the base and drilled and tapped straight through.

Once this was done the bosses were fixed to the base plate using M3 csk bolts, the base plate holes for the crank and the eccentric will be next .......but that's it for today

[Sanjay F]

After all that I was pondering if the parts would fit so did a quick test fit and atm, it's looking ok 

[Michael S.]

It looks like everything fits together well. 

Do you already have an idea how you'll finish the edges of the screwed-on plates so they look like cast iron? Round off the edges.