A Stuart Williamson build

[Sanjay F]

I have made a riser block and the cable is now horizontal and looks ok. Unfortunatley I have soldered the wheels onto the shaft and can see the issue. The book does say to either rivet or solder, but clearly common sense should have kicked in, but it didn't! 

Just to clarify the washers should be soldered to the spindle, then the pulleys positioned and finally the shaft peened over?

However, given all that I have a operating governor, but the pulleys obviously don't turn so I guess I'll try the engine first and if the under load it doesn't work, I'll have to hack the pulleys off and start again.


EDIT: Does silver solder melt when heated again, or should I get my trusty hacksaw out? 
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCUBDKIa82Q" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCUBDKIa82Q</a>

[Michael S.]

That looks much better now! 👍
You can definitely desolder the discs again.

But perhaps you can free them up again with polishing compound and oil.

Or are they soldered on permanently?

Michael

[Sanjay F]

Soldered permanently unfortunately - I have decided to redo it, might as well get it right!

I've cut off the pulleys and will make some new ones, then look at how to get them attached, but rotating 

[Sanjay F]

Look at what the postman has just delivered - very nice and 1 million times better than the original casting I had; in fact cannot be compared

[Michael S.]

Oh, a Doric column for a machine temple!   

[crueby]

That came out great!

[Jasonb]

Just the washers are supposed to be soldered to the spindle. I would solder one before assembly and then the other afterwards. The reason it says to CSK the wheels is to help stop the solder reaching the wheels.

I might be tempted to turn the spigot to include a small head say 1mm thich and then make up a silmilar 1mm washer. When you come to assemble put a bit of grease on teh pully so the Loctite can't stick position the thick washer and then a dab of Loctite applied by dipping a piece of fuse wire into the loctite.

The Column looks very good and still has a few small undulations which wil help keep it looking like a casting.

Now the question is as the column was drawn based on the original engraving, will you stick with the Stuart base of make a correct one? It would not be hard to do the original type, just two thicknesses of steel, the feet cut out of the thinner bottom piece. Let me know if you want a template to cut to.

[Sanjay F]

Here we go folks.......governor version MKII with contra-rotating pulleys. Michael and I came to the same conclusion at the same time that a threaded end with some nuts & washers would be far, far simpler and it was.  I think it actually looks pretty good and designed this way!

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCb7j8eNY8w" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCb7j8eNY8w</a>

[Sanjay F]

Now the question is as the column was drawn based on the original engraving, will you stick with the Stuart base of make a correct one? It would not be hard to do the original type, just two thicknesses of steel, the feet cut out of the thinner bottom piece. Let me know if you want a template to cut to.

Do you mean the base which is illustrated on the front of the book (see below)? I think I'm going to stick with Stuart base as I like the way the exhaust is directed into it and then horizontal outwards.

[Jasonb]

Yes, as per the original engraving.

You could still do the pipework like that have a all wooden display base and bring the pipework out the side or a stone effect top with wooden sides. I have done quite a few engines that way.

[internal_fire]

EDIT: Does silver solder melt when heated again, or should I get my trusty hacksaw out?

Yes, it melts. However, it takes a higher temperature than it did to solder. Difficult to avoid destroying the brass.

I have "unsoldered" steel and SS, but brass is tricky.

Gene

[crueby]

True about it needing a higher temperature, but not a lot hotter. If you use the 'Easy' grade solder, the temps are lower than the 'Hard' grade, so less risk. Putting a little of the flux around the edges of the joint does seem to help it remelt a little easier, and also gives you a visual clue on the temperature in the metal, since the flux goes clear when its approaching the melting point of the solder. Small parts can be tricky to de-solder, since very thin areas will heat faster and can deform.

[Sanjay F]

Yes, as per the original engraving.

You could still do the pipework like that have a all wooden display base and bring the pipework out the side or a stone effect top with wooden sides. I have done quite a few engines that way.

That looks stunning and I really like the base and the tiling on it, however, visually not so keen on the Williamson alternative, but thanks for the offer

[Sanjay F]

I'm working on the best approach to machining the column, after all I don't want to damage it.

Thinking so far is a combination of lathe and mill. As with a previous builder, I'm not keen on having the end sticking so far out of the chuck on the lathe unsupported. (see 2nd photo)

So I'll make the spigot as in the book so I can pull it into the chuck making sure I use packing so as not to damage the rim. I think it will run true in the 3-jaw, if not, I'll move onto the 4-jaw chuck. I'll make a wooden plug to fit in the other end and using a tailstock centre I can machine the rim OD and even reduce the length from each end to get the correct height.

Then over to the mill and using the same spigot I can pull it down onto the table and then I'm going to use a boring bar

[crueby]

Given how nice the finish is on the printed column, how much machining does it really need? Are any of the surfaces bearing surfaces?