Author Topic: Ignition contact breaker points  (Read 602 times)

Offline MikeN

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Ignition contact breaker points
« on: January 18, 2026, 10:32:57 AM »
I need to make the contact breakers for my Bentley BR2.  I've made most of the assembly that fits inside the dummy magnetos.
What should I make the actual contact part out of? The finished contact discs about 3mm diameter.
The book says the author used contacts from an old dish washing machine relay.
I have removed the contacts from an old relay that I found which are about the right size and can be adapted but they are quite soft.
Do contacts have to be hard?
Thanks

Offline cwelkie

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Re: Ignition contact breaker points
« Reply #1 on: January 18, 2026, 01:55:22 PM »
If you know someone with a tig welder you might try using a couple thin slices of electrode rod.  I've done that successfully on my Anzani engine.  I don't recall exactly which rod I used (don't think it matters much).  The slices were cut off using a circular cutoff tool in a moto-tool on the lathe tool post.  Could also be done by hand in a vise with practice and a way to catch the little bits when they come off.


Offline MikeN

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Re: Ignition contact breaker points
« Reply #2 on: January 18, 2026, 02:33:21 PM »
I own a tig welder! (I was once a coded welder).
Thanks, I'll give it a try.

Offline gbritnell

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Re: Ignition contact breaker points
« Reply #3 on: January 18, 2026, 03:06:19 PM »
With electronic model ignitions you don't have to use Tungsten.  The points aren't subject to high current as with conventional battery/coil ignitions. If you use Tungsten silver solder a long enough piece so you can hold or fixture it then cut it off with a small diamond cut-off disc. After cutting off polish the surface with a diamond honing stick.
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Offline MikeN

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Re: Ignition contact breaker points
« Reply #4 on: January 18, 2026, 03:40:43 PM »
With electronic model ignitions you don't have to use Tungsten.  The points aren't subject to high current as with conventional battery/coil ignitions. If you use Tungsten silver solder a long enough piece so you can hold or fixture it then cut it off with a small diamond cut-off disc. After cutting off polish the surface with a diamond honing stick.

Just spent an hour cutting slices of tungsten off with a thin cut off disc. It turns out that it doesn't matter how many sheets of white kitchen paper you put down to catch them, they all ping off and disappear. The only way is to catch them in your hand. And they come off hot!

Offline Jasonb

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Re: Ignition contact breaker points
« Reply #5 on: January 18, 2026, 04:03:59 PM »
When making ignitors I solder them to the part first then grind off what I don't need.

But as said if using modern CDI type ignition they just need a small switching cuttent so anything metalic will do, brass works fine.

Offline MikeN

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Re: Ignition contact breaker points
« Reply #6 on: January 18, 2026, 07:31:18 PM »
Thanks for The replies.
Can someone please elaborate on the ignition systems mentioned and where to purchase the components.
I am not familiar with them.
Thanks Mike

Offline Zephyrin

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Re: Ignition contact breaker points
« Reply #7 on: January 19, 2026, 09:09:50 AM »
on several tiny 2 stroke engines I've made with "vintage" spark plug ignition with points and contact breaker i have used for points small disk cut from a silver sheet, not silver-plated relay contacts, but a piece of “solid” silver, about 1mm thick, easy to soft solder on the steel spring and brass screw.
in my experience, the spring has to be very stiff and the lift the smallest possible, 0.5mm or less for a fast run up to 7000rpm...
and by the way and I dare add that the pushrod of the contact breaker was turned from a piece of bone...
But I have to admit that it's not as good as a commercial electronic ignition.

 

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