A Mini Tower Clock

[crueby]

This morning started in on the roof rafters. Square half lap at the upper end (45 degree pitch so the top joint is just a 90 degree lap) and a 45 degree angle at the bottom end of each rafter...

[cnr6400]

 

[crueby]

Thanks Jeff!

Got the rest of the framing done, and the floor plates to hold the tower dial unit in place made. The dial unit lowers in from the top and turns 90 to slide into place, then the dial is screwed back on from the back. So, all thats left is to get some clear on the tower (after the glue sets up), make the wood base (clamped up and glue drying on those pieces), and make the final shaft to connect the universal joints (have to wait for the final assembly on the base for that distance). Nearly there!  The clock has been keeping good time over the last several days too.

So, while waiting for the glue to cure up and the clear finish to go on and dry, got a couple days of mostly waiting on this project. Good time to take the other clock, the striking one I made years ago, down from the wall and get the old chain sprockets out so I can make the new set. That should not take long, the new sprockets are a quite simple shape to mill out on the rotary table.
 

[Kim]

That's a mighty nice looking tower!   

Are you going to finish the tower with some tung oil or something?  To show off the beautiful wood?

Kim

[crueby]

That's a mighty nice looking tower!   

Are you going to finish the tower with some tung oil or something?  To show off the beautiful wood?

Kim

Thanks  Kim!  On some scrap I tested the clear enamal that I  used on the clock itself, and it gave the cherry a nice look, very like a tung oil but quick to spray 9n. So, I  have the f8rst coat 9n the tower now, once that sets I'll  turn it over to do the other side. For the base, I  had just enough hard maple pieces left over from a furniture  project, tha5s glued and clamped in the wood shop, tomorrow  I can get it sanded, chamfer the corners, and drill the mounting holes. Might do same spray, might varnish it, will test a piece with the spray.


 

[bent]

Huh, not seeing pictures here on my work pc.  Not surprised, it's older than me almost, and just as due for retirement as I am.  Will look again when I get home. 

[Kim]

That's a mighty nice looking tower!   

Are you going to finish the tower with some tung oil or something?  To show off the beautiful wood?

Kim

Thanks  Kim!  On some scrap I tested the clear enamal that I  used on the clock itself, and it gave the cherry a nice look, very like a tung oil but quick to spray 9n. So, I  have the f8rst coat 9n the tower now, once that sets I'll  turn it over to do the other side. For the base, I  had just enough hard maple pieces left over from a furniture  project, tha5s glued and clamped in the wood shop, tomorrow  I can get it sanded, chamfer the corners, and drill the mounting holes. Might do same spray, might varnish it, will test a piece with the spray.

 

Sounds like that will do the job quite well!   

Kim

[crueby]

That's a mighty nice looking tower!   

Are you going to finish the tower with some tung oil or something?  To show off the beautiful wood?

Kim

Thanks  Kim!  On some scrap I tested the clear enamal that I  used on the clock itself, and it gave the cherry a nice look, very like a tung oil but quick to spray 9n. So, I  have the f8rst coat 9n the tower now, once that sets I'll  turn it over to do the other side. For the base, I  had just enough hard maple pieces left over from a furniture  project, tha5s glued and clamped in the wood shop, tomorrow  I can get it sanded, chamfer the corners, and drill the mounting holes. Might do same spray, might varnish it, will test a piece with the spray.

 

Sounds like that will do the job quite well!   

Kim

The test on the maple looks good, though two coats will cover more evely. The maple has very tight grain so not much soaks in. The clear spray goes much faster than varnish, but would not cover well on a more porous wood. On the cherry it gave a nice oiled look.




I got the striking clock down, and was able to remove the chain sprockets without having to completely  remove the front plate, that will save lots of time. Think I will have to remake the shafts for the sprockets though, they were both soldered and pinned, will be faster to remake them. I was able to remove the main drive gears from the shafts though, thats a huge save.

[crueby]

I decided the base in the bare maple was too light so I gave it a coat of stain, let that dry, and gave it a first coat of the clear. While that is curing up, got started on the striking clock conversion to a new weight chain. So far have made the new winding shafts, with spacers between the gear and the sprocket, and also the blank for the ratchet. Next I'll get the keyways cut in the shaft/blanks, then set up to cut the ratchet teeth and the sprocket teeth. For the ladder chain, the sprocket is very simple, just a disc with a tapered edge and notches around the perimeter for the crossbars of the chain.

[cnr6400]

 

[steam guy willy]

Hi I like the wooden construction looks almost medieval without the treenails holding the tenons in   

Willy

[crueby]

Hi I like the wooden construction looks almost medieval without the treenails holding the tenons in   

Willy

Thanks  Willy, thats the look I  was going for!  Fun to hear someone use the treenails term, or trunnels as we New Englanders called them. Big dowels to everyone else.       I've got  one around here somewhere from the shipyard when they were repairing the Charles W Morgan at the Mystic Seaport shipyard.

[Dave Otto]

I learned about  treenails, or trunnels watching the Tally Ho videos on YouTube.
Really enjoying the work on the clock project BTW.

Dave

[Sanjay F]

Nice woodwork, a few rafters and floors - when can I move in? 

[crueby]

Nice woodwork, a few rafters and floors - when can I move in? 

The shop elves beat you to it!