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Advice on building a simple 'clutch' to stop a driven accessory
Jim:
I'm after some advice to build a simple 'clutch' that can be activated by a lever to disengage a running accessory that is being run by a belt off an engine.
If in the photo below where I have drawn the red line (and that belt was longer) what type of simple 'clutch' could be built to be able to work to disengage the belt with a lever moved one way and then re-engage the belt with the lever moved back? This would be an extremely handy thing for me to have when running accessories of steam engines and H&M engines etc
I've wracked my brain and everything I have come up with would be a dud......any ideas?
Hope I've made some sort of sense with the above!
Jasonb:
See my reply elsewhere for a "fast & Loose" pully setup.
Zephyrin:
The pulley free on its axle has a groove for a forked lever, this pulley is free to move on its axle with the lever and can be pushed against a hub attached to the axle, the pulley is then driven by the hub either by pressure with an O-ring or by dogs, jaws, clutch, claws, any form of mechanical device.
internal_fire:
--- Quote from: Jim on September 29, 2025, 04:00:32 AM ---any ideas?
--- End quote ---
The classic simple method is to set up an idler pulley that can be moved to tension or de-tension the belt. This presumes that the belt can be allowed to slip on one or both "real" pulleys without falling off.
Gene
crueby:
A dog clutch is a simple way to go - one half is attached to the driven shaft, other half free wheels with another pulley on it. When moved into engagement, the freewheeling half and its pulley get turned. In this picture, the green pulley and clutch half are fixed to the shaft. The red ones ferewheel on the shaft until pushed sideways into the other clutches teeth. The clutches can be made with two, three, four teeth, whatever is easiest, and the lever to move the free one back and forth could be a simple fork.
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