Mount Trapezium

[Jasonb]

You might want to do a bit more shaping of the lower yoke as it may be hard to file the last bit away once it is soldered without catching the protruding boss.

[redhouseluv]

Oh dear, it may be a bit late for that this morning, I had an early start! (see below)

[redhouseluv]

I see what your saying, I may have to live with that gap, but if the solder has worked I will be a happy man 

[redhouseluv]

1 joint bit dodgy

What should I do with this - all the other's aren't too bad, but this? Should I do something about it?

[uuu]

Pickle it to get it really clean again and give that one another go.  Put flux on all the joints,  just to keep the others clean during the heat up.   Unless you grossly overheat it, the other joints should stay secure.  Whether you'll be able to close up the gaps while it's hot is a good question, though.

Wilf

[Jasonb]

Pickle, flux and go again.

You have got the rod hot enough but not the yoke that is why the solder has only taken to the rod. But the joint does look a bit open at the top so check is is all lined up correctly

PS best not to use your collet blocks, piece of scrap is better

PPS Clean the sink before your other half see it

[redhouseluv]

Thanks Wilf & Jason

I'm glad I can do it again!

Luckily that's MY sink in the workshop, and she just walks past it looking disapprovingly at me

[redhouseluv]

I think I'm done, it's far from perfect and there's a couple of holes which I can fill with soft solder, and then carefully hacksaw the arms off. Still a bit more cleanup to be done, but will do that later - thank you all for the guidance on this part

[crueby]

Nice result, and learned a lot for the next projects! One other thing I've done sometimes when there is a gap on one part of a joint is to put in little snippets of brass sheet stock to fill the gap, that gets the opening small enough for the solder to stick both sides and fill the gap. Or, like you say, some soft solder will fill it as long as there is enough other hard solder to hold the joint - thats fine on parts like this that won't be seeing lots of heat in use like a boiler would.

    

[redhouseluv]

Thanks Chris and everyone - great advice and learning has been exponential over the last few weeks

I couldn't help myself and had to have a visual check of where I am on the overall project and how the pieces which took so long to make fitted into it......

https://youtube.com/shorts/EPSruujb9FQ?feature=share

I've pulled the shutters down on the workshop, it'll be at least a week before they come back up..............will be watching all your projects though 

[crueby]

Motions look good on the parts, almost like a clock!

[uuu]

If the part is to be painted, you could fill any gaps with a smear of car body filler.  Easy to sand back as required.

Wilf

[PaulR]

Looking good Sanjay!

[RReid]

Great progress! That motion is going to be hypnotic to watch when all done.

[redhouseluv]

Finally back home and straight in the workshop

The piston rod pivot is the next part to be made and when I made the bar (see pic) the spacer (centre section) was 5/32" diameter. I need to make the hole in the brass bush the same size and I'm not sure I'll get away with it as that would mean a very thin wall; 0.187" - 0.156"/2 = 0.015"?

I'm thinking of making the bush 0.250" and then I'd get a wall thickness of 0.047"  - I can't see that impacting anything?

The piston rod pivot pivot fits into the slot in the final photo