Supporting > Tooling & Machines

Machining an arbor blank

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redhouseluv:
I have this nice small secondhand Rohm chuck which is for smaller work when using the mill; I've had it a while and never used it or got round to making it fit

Reason: it came with the arbor above it in the picture which is an MT2 however it is a tang rather than the 3/8" Whitworth drawbar fitting which I need to fit my mill.

I have a blank MT2 arbor 3/8" Whitworth and wondered how I go about machining it to fit the chuck? I have taken the measurements at either end of the old arbor to help identify what size it is - can someone help with both the sizing and best way to machine it please?

Alternatively is there some sort of adpator and if so does it affect the accuracy of the fit and end result?

OR

Can the tang be cut off and a 3/8" thread be tapped into it - I'm guessing not!

redhouseluv:
I think its a B10 size....?

It would be good if it is as there is an off-the-shelf arbor which is relatively cheap!

Charles Lamont:
That would appear to be a Jacobs No 1 taper. You can find dimensions online and check.

To machine one, put the original in the lathe, either in the headstock taper or between centres, and with a dial gauge mounted accurately at centre height in the toolpost, you can angle the topslide so that you get no movement on the dial as you traverse the topside over the length of the taper. You are now set to machine a new taper. Approaching the final diameter, you can check the fit with engineers blue.

You can try a file on the tang to get an idea how hard it is, if not to bad, and if you don't need the tang you could try sawing it off, but even if it is machinable you will need a way to hold it by the taper. I don't think I would bother.

Krypto:
I would guess the end of the old chuck arbor is perfectly machinable as I've make several adapters for various tooling by machining MT#2 chuck blanks or with old taper drill bits.  Check it with a file.

Another way is to make the old chuck arbor a straight arbor.  Both my small drill chucks for the mill are 1/2" straight shank.

Jasonb:
You don't really need a drawbar for  a drill chuck but will need to be able to release it, is your quill slotted for a drift?


Do you have a self releasing draw bar? if not then M10 threded JT1 are available so just make a drawbar from m10 studding.


Looks like JT1 but if B10 then you can buy them cheaply and use the blank for something more useful

https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/product/2mt-b10-3-8-bsw-threaded-end-drill-chuck-arbor/

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