1953 Ford 3 speed standard transmission (1/3 scale)

[uuu]

You could then move on to a seamless shift formula1 gearbox?  https://www.f1-forecast.com/pdf/F1-Files/Honda/F1-SP2_16e.pdf

It's very similar to a motorcycle type, with the dog-ring forks moved in turn by grooves in a ratcheted barrel.  Only in this case the new gear is selected before the old one is disengaged.

Wilf

[Art K]

Wilf,
That just makes my head hurt thinking about that transmission.
Art

[Admiral_dk]

George - I just started my Prusa on another PETG print and it has the Nozzle @ 240-245C and the Bed @ 85C in the display and that is the latest settings from Prusa and the ones that really improved my PETG prints.

Chris states the difference of the Bed-Surface and mine is the "Textured Powder-coated Print Sheet".

Hope this helps.

Per         

[Kim]

Yes, have a Prusa also, and always use the textured plate for PTEG, and the smooth plate for PLA.  One time I forgot to switch to the textured plate when printing PTEG and it stuck so hard I ruined the surface of the smooth plate while removing the part!  The other side of the smooth plate is still in good condition, so the plate isn't totally ruined, but that was certainly a lesson for me! 

Now I'm more careful to always use the textured plate for PTEG!

Kim

[gbritnell]

I have a textured Creality plate on my printer. If I let it cool completely after printing a slight tap and the parts come right off. I'll up my temps and retry the PETG

[bent]

I have an older MakerGear3 with a kapton-tape coated glass bed.  PETG  holds fine for me, running at 90-100C bed temp., but I have to remember to wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol before starting.