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Another Hemmingway Quick Set Keats

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Jasonb:
If I were making it for my similar faceplate then I would ditch that casting and replace it with a longer bar which can be machined to suit the other casting and also your faceplate slots. This will also reduce overhang by keeping the work closer to the spindle.

Clamp plates off the mill are another option but a right pain to set up when gravity is working against you and also always a worry that they may fly out at speed.

This is the problem with building old designes which were invariably meant to fit a Myford and expecting them to fit a larger machine or the typical type faceplate found on most imported machines that don't have a threaded spindle so you can't get the faceplate slots as close to ctr.

redhouseluv:
Hmmm.......lots of food for thought there

I think I'm sold on the idea of making the equivalent of the casting; I guess the less components being bolted together on top of each will improve the accuracy too.

I have the mild steel flat bar which I was going to bolt the casting to (see pic), its right length and about 16mm thick OR - would it be better to use aluminium

- Starting point as described by Propforward, would be to clamp it to the faceplate and skim it?
- Reduce the thickness of each end, leaving the same contact area for the other castings as per the original base casting?
- Cut some slots in the ends similar to the castings?

One question I have is around usage of this tool and this in turn has a bearing on how it is made. As this is being clamped onto the faceplate, I still have to clock it using a DTI to get the start position - I'm presuming the answer is a yes, but feel I need to ask  :)

Dave Otto:
The answer to your question is yes, you will need to indicate the shaft or stock so that it is running true to the spindle.
Be aware that if you skim that piece of steel it may warp do to the stress relief. You can advert some of this by taking equal amounts off of each side.

Dave

Jasonb:
At 16mm thick I would drill and counterbore for a couple of say large say M10 cap heads or whatever size your mill clamps are then you can use the tee nuts from that which won't rotate in the faceplate slots as you tighten them. Which will mean you can skim right across.

Might even consider a few other changes. A hole in the middle of the bar will allow for longer items to be held and also allow the bar to be clocked true then you bolt it on, would need that flat strip moving to one side.

Roger B:
The basic idea of this tool was that you would clock the shaft true and then be able to offset by a measurable amount as the V block slides along the flat bar to set crankshaft or eccentric throws. The V block can also be turned across the axis of the lathe which would allow cross drilling/boring of round bars.

I drilled and reamed a 6mm hole in the centre of the base plate which allows me to move from the lathe to the RT without losing the centre. The lathe operations are centred with a piece of 6mm ground stock held in an MT collet in the headstock.

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