Elegent Scroll Frame Skeleton Clock

[bent]

I had the thought that the ratchet should be pinned...but had no basis for that other than looking at a few clockworks bits over the years.   

[crueby]

For the pins on clocks, especially ones that can be on rotated shafts like this, many makers would add a little retaining wire or cotter on the small end of the pin, to keep the pin from slipping out of its hole. I have grandfather clock movements with this feature.

[Kim]

After completing my Die Filer, I will now return to the clock build!

Before I can mount the barrel in the frame, I need to make the bearings. As I mentioned before, the original design mounts all the moving parts directly in the brass frame, using the brass as a bearing.  Since I made the frames out of aluminum, I’ve chosen to put in some bearings, which I’m making from W-1 tool steel.  Once I’m sure the bearings fit the way I want them to, I will be heat treating them. This should make a good bearing surface for the arbors.  One bearing has been inserted in the back frame, and the one for the front frame is sitting next to the left.


And before I can complete the barrel, I need to make a way to retain the ratchet wheel.  I’ve decided to go with the taper pin, as has been suggested by others earlier in this thread.

To do this, I determined the location where I wanted the pin, then drilled a hole just a little bigger than the small end of the taper pin I’m using.


Then I used a tapered reamer to ream out the hole just a bit, so that the taper pin fits in with some of the pin sticking out on both sides of the hole.  I also wanted to make sure the full length of the hole was tapered, and not just part of it.  This should provide the best friction fit on the taper pin.


I went slowly so as not to overshoot the size of the taper hole, and here’s where I stopped.


After trimming the taper pin, a little on both sides, here’s what I ended up with.  I wanted the pin to look centered when it was tapped gently into place.


Next, I fashioned the barrel click.  If you recall, I’d doofed up the drawing of the ratchet (making it look like the DRAWING in the book, rather than matching the DIMENSIONS listed in the book.)  Because of this, the drawing I’d made for the click would not produce a part that would mesh correctly with the ratchet as made.  So I redesigned the click on the fly here.  You can see my ‘new’ design on the engineering paper to the right. 


And here I’ve transferred that design to some 3/16” x 1” W-1 bar.


After a bunch of drilling, cutting, sanding, and filing, here’s my completed click:


Now in place on the clock frame, along with the barrel.


And a current family shot, just for fun!


Next, I’ll be embarking on the Fusee. This part will be different than anything I’ve ever made.  It will be pretty interesting!

Kim

[craynerd]

Hi Kim
New to this thread and what a great build log! I’ve made a few of Wildings clocks and have recently finished his Tower clock. I wish I had the skill you have to
Model the clock in 3d. That would have been incredibly helpful in all my builds!

Great work, I’ll be following!
Chris

[crueby]

Excellent.   And look8ng forward to seeing how the fusee is made.   

[RReid]

Looking mighty sharp, Kim. Nice bit of improv on the barrel click!

[cnr6400]

  The click looks great Kim! Nice save.

I've stocked up on  for the Fuse 'E' build! Still trying to figure out why a fuse is needed in an all mechanical clock...  

[crueby]

The click looks great Kim! Nice save.

I've stocked up on  for the Fuse 'E' build! Still trying to figure out why a fuse is needed in an all mechanical clock...

Because  it can overheat and burn up when trying to race past Leap Year Day?   

[Kim]

Thanks Chris, Chris, Ron, and Jeff! 

I've stocked up on  for the Fuse 'E' build! Still trying to figure out why a fuse is needed in an all mechanical clock...

Because  it can overheat and burn up when trying to race past Leap Year Day?   

Yeah, that's it! 

You guys are too much! 

Kim

[wagnmkr]

Kim, you are doing a lovely job on your clock. Have you got to use the die filer with it yet?

 

Tom

[Michael S.]

Kim, your watch looks great.

It'll be going tic-tac soon!

Michael

[kvom]

I've gotten the idea of  (maybe?) attempting a clock build, since model engine shows are less appealing these days in terms of transporting models to distant locations.  I purchased a book by W. R. Smith for one of his clocks to get a feel for the effort involved.  Like you I found the cost of brass sheet for the frame to be not only expensive, but also it's thicker than what's called for.  And I still have a good deal of aluminum sheet left over from the colibri build.  But I don't like the look of an aluminum and steel clock.  So if I move forward I'd look into powder coating the aluminum plates with a metallic powder to emulate brass.  I'd then use brass for the other parts where brass is called for.

[Kim]

Thanks Tom and Michael! 

I've gotten the idea of  (maybe?) attempting a clock build, since model engine shows are less appealing these days in terms of transporting models to distant locations.  I purchased a book by W. R. Smith for one of his clocks to get a feel for the effort involved.  Like you I found the cost of brass sheet for the frame to be not only expensive, but also it's thicker than what's called for.  And I still have a good deal of aluminum sheet left over from the colibri build.  But I don't like the look of an aluminum and steel clock.  So if I move forward I'd look into powder coating the aluminum plates with a metallic powder to emulate brass.  I'd then use brass for the other parts where brass is called for.

That would be very interesting, KVOM.  I'd love to see what you do. Make sure and post your build here.
Kim

[Krypto]

... So if I move forward I'd look into powder coating the aluminum plates with a metallic powder to emulate brass.  I'd then use brass for the other parts where brass is called for.

Anodizing would be the perfect process for this, but you have to decide if you want to invest the time, money and the space for the setup.  Preso is very good at finishes and he goes over his anodizing setup in this video.  Skip to 27:08 for anodizing.

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jpDVoTPXeNs" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jpDVoTPXeNs</a>

My current project is using a decent amount of unfinished aluminum and it's frustrating how easy it is to mar the finish.  Ended-up with a scrotch brite finish with grain sanding on the surface plate but still just handling will add tiny scratches.  I believe anodizing aluminum increases the toughness.

[kvom]

One bit of advice from the above video that I found very useful is to bag multiple smaller parts and add Simple Green to the bag before placing in an ultrasound cleaner.  Saves a lot of SG.