Elegent Scroll Frame Skeleton Clock

[paul gough]

Even when only partially cut from the parent sheeting its elegance is apparent. This “Time Machine” will be an aesthetic bonus to any room it occupies and win admiration from all who see it. Every time you wind it up and hear it ticking will be a pleasurable extension of the build, even years after completion. I trust the time consumed manually crafting this instrument enhances the sense of achievement as each component is conjured from stock material. A pleasure to watch the progress. Regards, Paul Gough.

[Kim]

Thank you Bent and Paul! 

Kim

[Kim]

A few weeks ago I was reading about the hazards of lead, especially as it affects children.  And I realized that brass has some lead content.  And I have grandkids.

So, after a few weeks of thinking, I have decided to change direction, and, rather than make most of the clock out of brass, I’m going to make most of it out of stainless steel.  It’ll be a different color, but I should be able to get a nice finish on stainless. And it seems like a pretty good choice for much of this.

I’d plan on making most of the components out of 303 stainless, which should be pretty doable. The problem I’m running into is the frames.  303 sheet is SUPER stinking expensive. I thought brass was expensive.  This stuff is like $450 for a square foot of 3/16” thick plate.  That’s silly prices.  I could do 304 stainless for much less, on the order of $50 per sqft. But 304 isn’t the easiest stuff to work with, so  I’m a little hesitant about using it.  I’ve looked a bit into having some 304 water-jet cut, but that’s a whole thing too.  And I’d either have to make the holes in the top part of the frame and HOPE that things came out close on the gear train, or leave those holes closed and do it by hand later.  Which kinda defeats the purpose of having the 304 cut by someone else.

This led me to think about using Aluminum for the frames.  That’s a much more reasonably priced material, and would probably look pretty good.  And much easier to machine than 304.  I’d probably go with 6061-T6 if I did Aluminum, but would be open to suggestions.

Any other thoughts on a good material to use for the frames?  I’d love to hear people’s ideas and suggestions here.

But please don’t suggest brass. I’ve made that decision.  I want to do it in something else.

And because I can’t post without some pictures, here’s a shot of a project I just finished up.  It’s the HMS Titanic, in cardstock.  This was a pre-cut kit and was quite fun.  I really liked the string of LEDs that they included in the kit. It’s a very cool touch.




I’m currently working on a paper model of Notre Dame by the same company.  I haven’t completed that one yet, but it’s in progress.

Thanks for helping me think through possible metals to use for the frame on my now, non-brass Elegant Scroll Frame Skeleton Clock.

Kim

[crueby]

Having fought with it on a couple projects, I would heartily vote AGAINST using 304 stainless. It work hardens very easily, and eats small drill bits like popcorn at a movie.
I've also not had much luck finding 303 in sheet form at any price. Aluminum ought to work for the frames, though you will need to put in bronze bushings for the pivot axles, ali would wear too quickly.
What about for the gears? Normally those are engravers brass. For sizes up to about 3-1/2" you can buy premade round blanks, I know Timesavers clock catalog has a whole variety of them for very reasonable prices. Then you are only cutting the teeth, much less than cutting out of larger sheet.
Also, there is the C693 alloy of brass that is lead free. As is C464 Naval brass. The 464 at least is available in sheet form too, I think 693 might be round bar only. Search for them, and also 'lead free brass'.

[cnr6400]

Great looking model of the Titanic Kim! Like the lighting on it too. As Chris mentioned there are several lead free brasses that will machine and finish far easier than any stainless alloy. I'd suggest considering one of the lead free brasses for the clock. You don't want to get frustrated mid-project chewing stainless, and give up the job. It will be enough of a challenge in brass. In my opinion, even with leaded brass the risk of kids getting any lead exposure is minimal unless they are licking the material or handling cuttings frequently. (you can likely prevent this exposure). Once completed and finished lead emission from the clock parts will be next to zero. Things like car and truck exhaust, and oil additive exposure are far bigger health risks than lead in brass. Just food for thought. 

[Kim]

Thanks for the replies, Chris and Jeff.  I really appreciate the comments.

I am considering thinning down disks of 303 for the gears.  In general, 303 is rated at 75% machinability (where 360 brass is 100% machinability) and the cost is about half of the cost of brass.  In general, I've found 303 to be quite nice to work with.  304, not so much. As Chris says, it work hardens easily and is hard on tooling (and on my psyche!).

Based on your comment, Chris, I went and looked at the C464 Naval Brass.  It has a rating of 30% machinability. That's worse than 304 stainless, which gets a 40% rating.  The unleaded brass (693) has a machinability rating of 85%, which is pretty good. But it looks to cost about 40% more than regular 360 brass.

And yes, if I use aluminum for the frames, I would need to put a bush of some kind in place.  I was considering little W-1 bushes where I could fit them, and then harden them.  I could use brass or bronze too, but I was thinking a hardened steel bush might do well, after it had been tapered for a proper fit on the arbor.

Hmm... Very interesting things to consider here. Thank you both for your thoughts!
Kim

[RReid]

That's one huge card stock model! I scratch built a few card stock buildings in N and HO scales back in my model railroading days, but never anything like that. Impressive, and looks like you did your usual bang up job of it. 

I think an aluminum frame for your clock will be a good choice. A bit different maybe, but can still be made to look very nice.

[Kim]

Thanks, Ron.
Yes, it will be a bit different.  But who wants another copy of exactly the same clock, right? 

I'm looking forward to the challenge, part of which is figuring out what materials to select for this unique spring-driven engine that will drive a chronometer.   

Kim

[Roger B]

Clock bushes are available as standard parts. Someone on here (Don??) suggested then as injector nozzles. An example:

https://theclockpartstore.com/clockmakers-supplies-drills-keys-pins-oil-bushes/bushes/

Excellent model of the Titanic   

[samc88]

Nice Titanic model Kim, which company is that by?

[Krypto]

If you are going the aluminum route, you might want to work on an anodizing setup.  Besides making it look pretty, it gives the material a tougher surface finish. 

Mark Presling (Preso) on Youtube has shown his setup a few times.

[Admiral_dk]

Great looking Titanic Kim 

I'm not going to tell you to go the Brass way (we all have different worries) - but I will tell you that the mot beautiful brass stuff in my house (heirlooms) are all 'painted' with a clear coat of lacquer (wasn't me) => no problems with oxidation or contact with the metal ....

Still very interested in the Tools that will be created along your journey with this one 

Per                        

[mklotz]

The brass pieces in my self-made chess set...

https://www.homemadetools.net/forum/metal-chess-set-55396#post81789

are, as expected, handled frequently.  I sprayed them with two coats of RustOleum crystal clear enamel...

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7701830-Stops-12-Ounce-Crystal/dp/B0010NY95S/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3MNCXI96YSI6B&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.fSIvmDn4ZJoxgmuo20gsrddfn8HCOHoJ_P44d_AFmOL_ICvwO6nCezJ1CXWi01nsKwGpu5-Il4sJPxwQXNbXZsvNaETEbJpmYrOn4yO4BY_ijEig0nTqV06QWWz9UMALR9feqOLcDdjt2z6BRezDbnf5e7tsTiV0jMWOLTgb4O7pCQOzpqfUZ6-o7aIbo2Tf2HikmrMi_NEAgVLv0jzwwHRsU4IM4MGop-XomX3DsgGB0LZf2f51JrCHD0dC0oweG1NtmkBntM5Log5XEpEncey56sICZZf5BDrIegZ7mKUf-ZDBUeW9Iv7Gz97dYKu_0ACOquMilXwzl1Uij93sxSX8FfsL3xQJRLB8j11L8vFQQB_TbRVETyJYI_zltsUfouvAStifjc2EnGc_Bu-sAs-56QIvABT0aDMnv8eqK6jZodCwOPAReKXtupyf0VrM.2K3k3MyVGhsPa4zgRSF7RFaQR8mPe26gY1zv0OQ5zlU&dib_tag=se&keywords=rustoleum%2Bcrystal%2Bclear%2Benamel&qid=1739556841&sprefix=rustoleu%2Bcry%2Caps%2C195&sr=8-1&th=1

and now, years later, they are as shiny as when first made.

[wagnmkr]

Very Nice Marv. Simple designs but each one is easy to see what it represents.

 

[Kim]

Roger, Thanks for the link to the bushes.  I didn't know you could purchase bushings premade like that.

The Titanic model kit was from CubicFun.  Here's a the Amazon link to the kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0819FZ3N7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Good thought on anodizing the aluminum, Krypto.  I'll have to keep that in mind.

Thanks for the suggestions on coating brass to maintain the finish, Marv and Per!  Appreciate the suggestions.

Kim