Chris's Un-Ransome Tree Feller

[crueby]

Today started in all the milling/drilling/tapping work on the parts, started by milling the flats on the center ring, one side a narrow flat with holes for the connection to the swing gear later on:

and the other side a wide flat for the steam chest. That side has holes in the side of the ring, so the steam chest can be notched and side drilled for the mounting screws. Don't want to bolt through the chest, since that would interfere with all the other passages and ports.

Also drilled/tapped the cylinder end and rear cap:

That means I can get started on the shaping of the front flange/cap, which has also been cross drilled for screws to hold it to the end of the cylinder. Lots more to do at that end...

[cnr6400]

  Looking good Chris!

[crueby]

Looking good Chris!

Thanks  Jeff!

[crueby]

Started in on shaping the front end cap today. It has a tall ridge across the middle to take the guide rods, so started with a thicker piece of the bar and milled off the sides. Since it wasn't that deep in the chuck, the mill had a tendency to rock the part while cutting, so I put a bar across the middle to hold it down flat. Both sides were taken down the same.


Then drilled the mounting holes while it was still in the chuck and aligned:

With the mill table still locked down in that position, switched chucks and drilled matching tap size holes in the end flange, lining up the holes so the center ridge in the cap will end up horizontal.

I'll get those holes tapped next, then continue on with the shaping of the cap...

[cnr6400]

 

[Don1966]

Good start Dog and I think you got this this time…..

 
Don

[crueby]

Good start Dog and I think you got this this time…..

 
Don

Thanks Don!  I'm looking forward to see how well this one cuts! I have a long saw blade from an electric saws-all that should work well with it.

[crueby]

More shaping on the end cap. Drilled/counterbored for the piston rod and gland, and cut the center out more to let the gland be recessed below the ends of the rod supports, leaving room for the nut on the piston rod end where it will go through the moving crossbar later.

Also turned the blank for the piston rod gland, and rough cut out the crossbars for the guide rods. Next time I'll start drilling all that stuff...

[Kim]

Good progress on your front end cap, Chris.  It's more complex than I'd have thought! 

Kim

[crueby]

Good progress on your front end cap, Chris.  It's more complex than I'd have thought! 

Kim

Thanks kim!  Yeah, it has to hold the guide rods for the saw blade, as well as the pivots for the valve links. The end of the piston rod will have a crossbar bolted on that moves on the guide rods and holds the end of the blade. Then there is another crossbar out at the end of the guide rods to steady the rods and also give the blade more support.

[Krypto]

Thanks Don!  I'm looking forward to see how well this one cuts! I have a long saw blade from an electric saws-all that should work well with it.

I thought from the scale of this model that a sawzall or jig saw blade would be appropriate. It will be awesome to have a functional model.

[crueby]

Thanks Don!  I'm looking forward to see how well this one cuts! I have a long saw blade from an electric saws-all that should work well with it.

I thought from the scale of this model that a sawzall or jig saw blade would be appropriate. It will be awesome to have a functional model.

I just hope I dont wind up with any half-sized shop elves!   

[crueby]

This morning I started in on the guide rod assembly. First was to drill the holes in the cap for the inner ends of the rods. The holes go in .2", then switch to a deeper hole with a 8-32 thread. i'll put a threaded end on the guide rods to screw into the cap. The outer ends will bolt to another plate.

Here is the cylinder with the cap in place, after also making the piston rod gland.

While the rotary table was set up for the guide rod holes, also drilled the two plates - one for the outboard end, other will slide back and forth on the guide rods with the piston. It has larger holes for bearings, and a center hole to attach to the end of the piston rod.



Next up with be the guide rods themselves, and the bearings for the sliding plate. The two plates have the holes offset, since the blade mount will be at the bottom of them. Also need to put holes for the valve links in some of these parts.

[bent]

Hmm.  Looks good, and glad you are giving this another go.  It's always looked a little odd to me, that the guide rails for the saw are so slender, and would worry that the mechanism might bind due to flexing of the rails.  But then, like with a good sharp chainsaw, you should never need to "reef" on the saw to force the cut, the saw should just plow its way through.  Another good thread to follow, watching again with interest!

 

[cnr6400]

  Looking great Chris. Just a suggestion re any memos you might write the shop elves while building this saw - careful not to mention any phrases about "staff cuts" or "half measures" "or getting a leg up on the competition" ...