Engines > Restoration of Model Engines
Twin cylinder mill engine, slightly rusty.....
redhouseluv:
This is going to be a slow burn..........
I bought this last year when I was without a workshop and finally thought I'd give it some attention and see if anything can be done with it.
I was thinking about the following:
1. Electrolysis - I have read this not good for the non-ferrous material like brass/bronze
2. Complete submersion in rust remover - again could have an adverse reaction for non-ferrous material over a long period of time
So.....
I have squirted some penetrating fluid on all the metal to metal contact surfaces, I'll keep doing this over a period of days/weeks and see if anything starts to move. If I can get it apart I can then look at removing the rust from the individual components. I haven't scrubbed anything but after 5 mins the brass bearings around the flywheel are looking shiny :)
Any ideas or thoughts gratefully received and at the end of the day it be something which has to remain as is, but for now let's see what can be done ...........
ShopShoe:
redhouseluv,
Two sources that I know about and watch fairly regularly on YouTube. have both run comparisons between different rust removal methods.
Each one posted more than one video on their experiences, so a Youtube search will get you close.
Tubalcain (in the USA) aka mrpete222, YouTube Search "mrpete222 rust"
Keith Rucker (vintagemachinery.org), YouTube Search "Keith Rucker rust removal"
My take-away from watching all of these videos a while ago is that there are different pros and cons of each method combined with what you want to de-rust. Probably some of these things can be of help to you if you get to the point of taking things apart and working piece-by-piece.
I can add that I have used the "EvapoRust" product in different situations over several years and it does work fairly well for a reasonable cost. Where I live it was also easily available through my neighborhood auto-parts store. Disclaimer: I am not affiliated with them in any way. I just felt the product worked well for MY uses. Last use was in 2023.
I can also say that I have used various "rust stabilizer" paints for non-critical, non-engine objects that I wanted to paint to "pretty them up" for casual display with less danger of re-rusting. I have used these paints alone, and under color coats of rattle-can paints like the "rustoleum" products. Usual disclaimer and Your Mileage May Vary. (I am not mentioning any particular brand because I have used several different ones and I know composition and availability of these types of products is constantly changing.)
As far as disassembly is concerned, Cycling Heat, Then cool, then soak in solution, then heat, etc. can help. Be patient. Start with lower-heating approaches before getting aggressive. My progression is usually through these options: imagine success occasionally but also try to visualize what disasters could occur from being too aggressive. 1. Put in bright sunlight all day, then bring inside. 2. Hair dryer. 3. Heat Gun. 4. Propane torch with "brush" flame, not pencil flame unless you focus one a very small area. 5. Oxyacetalene torch. (You gotta have experience with this tool, in heating, cutting, and welding.)
I have generally used WD-40, but its main function is drying out and protecting metal from rust: There are other products that may provide penetrating action into rusted connection that may work better. I have used "Liquid Wrench" brand. Some prefer kerosene or some individuals have their own "magic brews." There are also recipes for use with dirty/oxidized brass, etc. that I have heard of, but don't use. Sorry, but I don't have any links handy.
--
Different Subject: I like the looks of this engine. I think I would like to build something like it. Is there a drawing set out there for something that comes close?
ShopShoe
redhouseluv:
Hi ShopShoe
I was just writing the update below when you posted. I think others on the forum will be far more knowledgeable about other similar engines, but the one that comes to mind is the Stuart Twin Victoria. In fact I have bought the governor kit for that engine with the hope I can one day fit it to this engine.
I'm using Liquiid Wrench!
-------------------------------------------------------------
Well I am surprised.....I'm using stuff called Liquid Wrench which has a slighlty different 'bouquet' to WD40 and the have managed to get the either ends of both cylinders loosened as well as the piston glands. The valve chest bolts are now loose as well, but leaving them to 'stew' for a little longer. I'm labelling everything as go and looking out for the witness marks......for the future :)
I took the rotten wood off as this gives me more access for squirting the good stuff into difficult places. So far so good, no broken bolts, but am calling it a day while the going is good and we'll see as there are some places which look like they may need a lot of attention.
As stated at the beginning, I have no idea what make this engine is, but am starting to see some really great quality components
Jasonb:
A lot will depend on how restored you want it too look.
Most chemical rust removal will take away the rust and leave the steel/iron so any surfaces that have become pitted will just have bright pits rather than ones filled with iron oxide and may not look that good.
If you want to get it back to "as new" then you are going to have to think about light remachining of surfaces to remove the pits together with draw filing and abrasives to return the bright metal to it's original condition. The cast surfaces like the bed plate, cylinders and flywheel spokes can be cleaned up with wire brushes (protect machined surfaces" to remove the rust and then a few coats of high build filler primer and rubbing down between coats will get you back to a surface that can be painted.
Jasonb:
As for plans for something similar there are very few twin horizontals about. The above mentioned Twin Victoria would need a lot of alteration to get close to this style of engine as it is based on a taller cast bed.
You will probably have to find a single that you like the look of and mirror it's major components like cylinder and trunk guides. Crankshaft bearings will only need one on each side and the shaft itself altered to take the two rods at 90deg to each other.
As an example this is one I designed based on a general arrangement that was in one of the very first editions of Model Engineer magazine. I have done a quick mirror of my 3D assembly to give an idea of what it may look like though I'd bring the two engines in a bit closer together.. A more shapely base to more closely match Sanjay's could quiet easily be cut from some 5/16 or 3/8 aluminium plate. It's all fabricated so would also be a lot cheaper than the Stuart option even if you only bought spare parts from them, similar sort of bore at 24mm to the Stuart 1"
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