Help! > Machines, Tools and Fixtures
Is this lathe worth buying for constructing small engines.
gipetto:
It's hard for me to buy stuff because i've no credit card but this site takes bank transfer and i figure i can make my own chisels from old metal files, so i won't get stuck without parts. should i go for the first one for 1000 euro or the second for half that. I don't know anything about lathes, but i've found that tools tend to pay for themselves over time so might as well.
https://www.reichelt.de/ie/en/drehmaschine-micromot-pd-250-e-proxxon-24002-p358376.html
https://www.reichelt.de/ie/en/drehmaschine-micromot-fd-150-e-proxxon-24150-p358460.html
the description mentions the 1000 euro lathe can cut threads. is this important for engine building, since threads can be tapped by hand. i have often done so. its it worth shelling out for that extra feature.
ShopShoe:
gipetto,
Since no one else has responded to your questions I will take a stab at answering your questions.
You have to learn somewhere and you have to start with something, so I commend you for looking for a very basic place to begin. The lathes you have selected are in the “micro” category and only do very small things. I am familiar with Proxxon tools and have some myself, but not one of their lathes and I think they might work if you consider small projects and realize that cutting metal with small lathes and mills must be done in small bites and will take longer than can be accomplished with larger tools that have more power.
You say that you do not know anything about lathes, but you can learn about basic terminology and working techniques online. As a start, realize that “centre height” (“swing” in the US) is the radius of the largest item you can put in the lathe. (swing is the diameter, or twice the radius.)
“Centre Distance” is the longest item you can turn between the headstock and the tailstock. If you use a chuck for work holding, that measurement will be less than center-to-center distance.
So, the basic difference between the two machines is the “!000-euro” lathe will handle larger projects.
As far as threading, it is always useful to have as a feature and single-point threading is considered a basic skill for a metal turner. It would allow you to make odd-sized threaded parts that you might not find a die for or collecting “all” the dies you would need cost quite a lot.
Be aware that you will need accessories and tooling to start using your lathe, so make sure that you can also afford to buy what you need to get started. Some may come with the lathe, but my German is not good enough to get that information from the links you posted.
You will need: Headstock and tailstock centers.
Chuck: 3-jaw for holding round stock, a 4-jaw independent chuck can be used to hold round or not-round stock, but needs a dial indicator to center the work. (Most own both types of chuck. You can start with the 3-jaw)
Tailstock chuck for drilling.
Toolbits for cutting: several profiles are used for specific types of cuts.
Boring bar(s) for internal turning.
If you do buy a lathe, post your learning experiences so that others may learn from you and so that we might be able to help you develop your skills.
By the way, you can practice turning with materials other than metal, so you save wear and tear on your tooling and save money. There are plastics and there is also (at least here in the US) what is called “machinable wax.” These materials are often used in introductory machining classes.
ShopShoe
gipetto:
i translated the german parts of the thread cutting lathe on google translate. it says the 3 jaw chuck is included, but i see no mention of a chuck for the tailstock. i suppose one could be fashioned, as chucks are common, and there are several engineering businesses nearby. i understand the need for a stationary drill bit as it is more accurate in finding the center of a shaft.
I guess that when building an engine from scratch it is only necessary to use the same thread everywhere, widespread compatibility is overkill.
I have heard reference to crashing the head on a lathe. does that mean that the support is moved into the head chuck preventing it from turning and bending the shaft?
also does the threading lathe have tapered bearings, i have seen articles that mention how that is important.
Precision lathe PD 250/E
For face, longitudinal and taper turning, thread cutting.
For processing steel, brass, aluminum and plastic.
Mounting flange for attaching the drilling and milling device PF 230.
Center width 250 mm. Center height 70 mm. Center height above support 43 mm.
Machine bed: Made of machine cast with wide prism guide. For vibration-free work even under high loads. Flange on the back for attaching the milling machine PF 230. Covered lead screw.
Headstock: Made of die-cast aluminum. Precision-bearing main spindle (concentricity without chuck 1/100 mm) with 10.5 mm passage. Hollow drilled 70 mm to 14 mm on the chuck side. With MK 2 recording. Rotary switch for switching on the automatic feed via the lead and pull spindle (either 0.05 or 0.1 mm/rev).
Tailstock: Made of die-cast aluminum. Quill Ø 18 mm, extendable up to 30 mm. With millimeter scale, MK 1 mount and rotating center punch.
Support: Bed carriage made of die-cast zinc. Cross slide and top slide made of steel (adjustment 60 or 45 mm). Reversible steel holder for turning steels size 8 x 8 mm.
Drive: Quiet DC special motor with 3-stage belt transmission for 300 - 900 and 3,000 rpm. Thanks to additional speed control (full-wave electronics), it can also be continuously adjusted to 100 - 300 or 1,000 rpm depending on the belt ratio. Right and left rotation. Relay switch with emergency stop function and restart protection.
Lathe chuck: High-quality 3-jaw chuck according to DIN 8386 Class 1 (concentricity tolerance 0.04 mm). Clamping range thanks to reversible jaws from 2 - 75 mm. In addition, lathe chuck protection with safety shutdown.
Handwheels: Made of aluminum, with adjustable scale ring (1 graduation = 0.05 mm, 1 revolution = 1 mm).
Thread cutting device: With change gears for left and right-hand threads of the most important pitches (0.5 - 0.625 - 0.7 - 0.75 - 0.8 - 1 - 1.25 - 1.5).
Other technical data: 230 V. 50/60 Hz. Size L 560, D 270, H 170 mm. Weight approx.
crueby:
I don't have any experience with the Proxxon lathe, but I recall there are some others here who have one. Try searching for Proxxon Lathe on the forum?
Roger B:
I have the smaller FD150. It is fine for the tasks I bought it for but has too many limitations to be the first lathe for building engines.
The PD250 I think would be suitable. It has all the accessories you would need and can be expanded with the milling attachment. It does offer a tailstock chuck. The Proxxon website gives a lot of detail.
https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/24002.php
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