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Moon Clock

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wagnmkr:
Just a quick note to say Thanks to Per and Gerrit for the advice and info. I did get some Elmers (disappearing purple it says) and have now done several problem parts with no problems so far. It isn't a big deal to apply the glue.

In checking my machines (Ender3 S1 Pro, and an Ender7), I see that the build plate insulation does not cover the bottom of the entire build plate. The outer inch or two are bare, and I assume, susceptible to drafts. I guess I will look at building a box to go around them. I only have problems with the larger prints.

 :cheers:









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ddmckee54:
I use the Elmer's glue stick for parts that refuse to stick to the build plate.  You'll want to periodically clean the glue residue off the build plate, isopropyl alcohol seems to work best for me.

An alternative to building a box around the uninsulated parts of the build plate would be to insulate them.

I'm in the process of designing/building a burnout furnace to do investment casting, and while I was ordering the refractory blanket that I will need I found out that the ceramic fiber insulation board wasn't too expensive - so I ordered some.  A 10-pack of 11"x12" sheets cost me less than USD $23 delivered to my door.  The stuff is 1/8" thick and cuts with a pair of scissors or a utility knife.  And it could also be used for insulating model boilers, since it's good for 2300°F.

wagnmkr:
What would one use to stick that material onto the build plate?

 I had the same sort of idea but I couldn't find any. Never thought of foundry supplies. I will see if I can find some as that could solve the problem.

So far, my using the Elmers has worked a treat and four problem pieces are now done.

 :cheers:

ddmckee54:
Kapton tape is probably what's sticking the insulation onto the build plate now.  It's available in various widths on-line, for use in high-heat applications.  You'd have to leave 5-10mm gap around the edges of the build plate un-insulated - so that you'd have a place to stick the tape to the bed.  Fortunately, other than the weight of the insulation there's no real stress on the tape.

Another more permanent option would be to use a sodium silicate solution, also known as water glass, to glue the insulation to the build plate.  That option would be a little too permanent for my tastes, you'd have to scrape everything off if you ever needed to work on the bed heater.

The glue stick is usually my last option.  If cleaning the bed, and/or using a brim doesn't keep the part stuck down, the glue stick will.  Sometimes it'll stick a little too well and I wind up having to scrape/pry the part off the print bed.

This is the insulation that I got. https://www.ebay.com/itm/386450837939

wagnmkr:
Thank You for that information. I will look into it.

The glue stick is working better than anything else at the moment. These large gears don't have a lot of substance to them and curl easily.

Yes, sometimes the glue works too well but I have found that if I just let the bed cool right off (Ender7), the part will pop off, and the Ender3 has a flexible bed plate so if I just lift the front of it slightly, the part pops right off.

As long as I get this set of gears printed, I will be a happy bunny.

 :cheers:

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