Author Topic: Reconditioning a Stuart Simplex  (Read 7912 times)

Offline redhouseluv

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Re: Reconditioning a Stuart Simplex
« Reply #15 on: February 15, 2024, 06:46:45 PM »
I have altered the base to look more like the original by:

- Removing the lugs
- Drilling 3 holes in the locations where the base is usually mounted
- Soldering 3 washers over the holes to produce 'risers'
- Filling in the uneven edges with JB Weld
- Some primer and top coats

1st 2 steps were done with a Dremel with a disc cutter and finished off with a grinding attachment. Also had fun by blistering the kitchen work surface with a blowtorch (VERY loud band!) Lucky I was forgiven as we are having a new kitchen put in  ;D
« Last Edit: February 15, 2024, 06:59:06 PM by redhouseluv »
Best regards

Sanjay

Offline redhouseluv

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Re: Reconditioning a Stuart Simplex
« Reply #16 on: February 15, 2024, 06:49:49 PM »
First adventure with a router attachment for a Dremel

Hmmm......a bit rickety and feels like it could break, however, the results haven't been too bad so far.............
Best regards

Sanjay

Offline redhouseluv

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Re: Reconditioning a Stuart Simplex
« Reply #17 on: February 20, 2024, 08:27:13 PM »
I have got as far as I can go without the use of some bigger machinery; still left to do:

- new 1/4" diameter columns
- new valve chest
- new valve chest cover
- drill new holes in cylinder
- lick of paint

Can't wait to see how this finally looks and runs ...........be right back!
« Last Edit: February 22, 2024, 12:10:06 AM by redhouseluv »
Best regards

Sanjay

Offline redhouseluv

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Re: Reconditioning a Stuart Simplex
« Reply #18 on: October 22, 2024, 08:39:53 PM »
It's been 10 months since I packed up my workshop and I'm finally back in action and trying to remember all that I had learnt in the previous year!

I'm continuing with this very old Stuart Simplex, trying to make it look and work how it should. I have machined the new valve chest and cover using castings from a Reeves Trojan. I'm using the design provided by Jason all those months ago and so far so good. Just need to make the four CSK holes in the chest and attach it to the old cylinder via some new holes.

Good to be back!!
Best regards

Sanjay

Offline redhouseluv

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Re: Reconditioning a Stuart Simplex
« Reply #19 on: October 23, 2024, 07:58:39 PM »
Made progress today and the cylinder is now attached to the valve chest; nearly messed up one of the holes by using the clearance size instead of the tapping size bit, just managed to recover it - phew

Annoying, that the casting has a blow hole in it and destiny determined it would be the visible side up ....... of course. Will try and fill it using epoxy and brass powder which has kinda work before
Best regards

Sanjay

Offline redhouseluv

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Re: Reconditioning a Stuart Simplex
« Reply #20 on: October 24, 2024, 05:41:22 PM »
Help needed please!

 
I'm struggling with the thread size and type for valve rod gland. The nearest thread gauge I can get to fit is a UNC/UNF is 24 (see pic) although not certain its a good fit. None of the Whitworth or Metric gauges fit

The diameter is 0.233 - 0.234

I'm not good with threads, and given the age of this engine, what else could this be? I need to tap a new hole for the valve rod gland

Thanks


Best regards

Sanjay

Offline Jasonb

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Re: Reconditioning a Stuart Simplex
« Reply #21 on: October 24, 2024, 06:09:29 PM »
0BA is 25.4 tpi and OD is 0.236. If you have a metric gauge try 1.0mm pitch against it

If you are going to make a new gland then I would go with something finer 32 or 40tpi and maybe 7/32"

Offline redhouseluv

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Re: Reconditioning a Stuart Simplex
« Reply #22 on: October 24, 2024, 08:44:32 PM »
Thanks, I'll try the 0BA on a piece of scrap and test the original gland. If it doesn't fit I'll make a new gland and tap a new hole to same size
Best regards

Sanjay

Offline redhouseluv

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Re: Reconditioning a Stuart Simplex
« Reply #23 on: October 25, 2024, 02:40:05 PM »
0BA works a treat, thanks ....... I just need to order a 0 BA bottom tap  :)
Best regards

Sanjay

Offline redhouseluv

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Re: Reconditioning a Stuart Simplex
« Reply #24 on: October 25, 2024, 08:08:53 PM »
I made some new columns today, which I think look more akin to the originals than the strange thin tapered ones it arrived with
Best regards

Sanjay

Offline redhouseluv

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Re: Reconditioning a Stuart Simplex
« Reply #25 on: October 27, 2024, 06:27:40 PM »
I worked on the cylinder lagging today, but this time made a template before hacking into the actual aluminium sheet and messing it up!

I was looking for a suitable template material when I came across Titanium Thin Plate Sheet Foil on the Amazon and thought I'd give it a go; it's really good and really cheap, £6.99 for a roll which will last me forever!

Result was good, just need some domed BA bolts to fix the newly cut lagging to the cylinder
Best regards

Sanjay

Offline crueby

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Re: Reconditioning a Stuart Simplex
« Reply #26 on: October 27, 2024, 06:30:13 PM »
Interesting looking material! Any difficulties or tricks needed when drilling and cutting it?  Which thickness did you get?

Offline redhouseluv

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Re: Reconditioning a Stuart Simplex
« Reply #27 on: October 27, 2024, 06:38:32 PM »
I got the 0.1mm thickness

I marked it using blueing and a scribe, cut it using a pair of good scissors and then started the holes with spot drill. Its sharp BTW, watch your fingers on the cut edges!
Best regards

Sanjay

Offline redhouseluv

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Re: Reconditioning a Stuart Simplex
« Reply #28 on: October 30, 2024, 08:54:44 PM »
The template worked very well as can be seen from the photos - I will definitely be doing that again when trying to fit lagging to a cylinder.

All parts are now ready for assembly; I took this apart in Feb so should be fun trying to get it back together! Luckily I took lots of pics and made some notes which I'm trying to decipher........
Best regards

Sanjay

Offline redhouseluv

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Re: Reconditioning a Stuart Simplex
« Reply #29 on: November 01, 2024, 04:29:30 PM »
Timing trouble

I've been messing around with the timing for hours and can't get the engine to run; seems close but no cigar! The engine turns over silky smooth when not under power then tightens up on TDC and BDC with the air.

I know the cylinder ports are rubbish, basically 4 holes (see pic), but was nervous about drilling them out in case I damaged something. Should I bite the bullet and make some proper inlet and exhaust slots or is there something else I can do re. getting the timing right?

What size should the slide valve and recess be in relation to the ports?

https://youtube.com/shorts/e3C1ofwbBTk?feature=share

« Last Edit: November 01, 2024, 04:36:52 PM by redhouseluv »
Best regards

Sanjay

 

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