Engines > Restoration of Model Engines

Reconditioning a Stuart Simplex

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Jasonb:
lot of work to make a good one like these.

Probably a job saved until you have the workshop up and running again a smaking new parts and repairing old threads etc is not really  a kitchen table job.

Don't forget it is likely to have Whitworth threads and not BA due to it's age.

Bruno Mueller:
My Trojan with slip excentre.

redhouseluv:
All the engines posted above look amazing, and yes, I will need a workshop for even the basic restoration

Started strip down today and this has definitely been built on a kitchen table and by the looks of things using kitchen utensils  ;D

I am no expert, but having built a few engines now, I can tell when something is not right and this is like opening Pandora's box - look at the pictures

Additionally:

No gaskets
No packing in any of the glands
Stirpped threads
The eccentric strap is too big
Conrod holes look all over the show
Solder all over the place
Base plate hacked with a file and not symmetrical
And my personal, the cylinder ports  :D

Its a strange one, as I really don't know where I want to get to with this engine. I think I want to the get the obvious visual things sorted out and I want the engine to have the basics to function correctly, but do I want to machine every component again .........not really. I might as well start from scratch and get it right?

crueby:
You may be right, just take measurements, fixing them, and make a new one from bar stock if thats in your wheelhouse. Put this one back together for a comparison next to it!

redhouseluv:
And here are the offending parts in their full glory; the valve chest and cylinder after being separated by use of a blowtorch. I managed to get some studs out and others snapped in situ, but that was going to happen.

My current thinking is to fill in the holes and then:

1. Make a new valve chest & cover but use 4 x smaller studs and nuts (8BA) so the nuts don't extend past the cover as before

OR deviating from the original

2. Make a new valve chest & cover but use 8 x smaller studs and nuts (8BA) (see black dots on cylinder)

The only reason for option 2 is there is a stud snapped off in one of the cylinder holes and I've never had much success tapping into JB Weld

Smaller studs would also allow me to move the position of the holes inward............ anyway lot's to think about, but I don't want to end up with 'Triggers broom'!

For those unfamiliar with the term, its from an 80's British sitcom and a scene where 'Trigger claims that he's had his road sweeper's broom for 20 years. But then he adds that the broom has had 17 new heads and 14 new handles' '

'How is it still the same broom' comes the reply'

 ;D


P.S. Jason I think may be correct about the threads, however, it may just be luck, but 6BA fits perfect into the cylinder?

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