Kearsarge Windlass Engines

[crueby]

Good idea! The blocks themselves are  great,wouldn't  be hard to make the clamps from proper steel.   

[mklotz]

Chris, if you decide to make a new V-block clamp, consider making one with a lower profile to alleviate the interference that style clamp provides.  Below is a reproduction of an article I wrote for the homemadetools forum.  It shows my low profile clamp...

V-block design is very important to the utility of the tool. A proper V-block like the one in the center in the photo has bolt-on, low-profile clamps that won't interfere with the milling machine or drill press chuck. Moreover, the clamps remain inboard of the sides so the block can be laid on its side with the workpiece still clamped as would be required if drilling orthogonal holes.

The less expensive block on the left is more commonly seen. It can't be laid on its side and the tall clamp interferes with everything. There isn't much one can do about laying it over but the obstructing clamp can be fixed. Shown in front is one of a pair of clamps I made; the other is shown mounted on the block on the right. Note the use of brass hold-down screws to prevent marring the workpiece.

[crueby]

Chris, if you decide to make a new V-block clamp, consider making one with a lower profile to alleviate the interference that style clamp provides.  Below is a reproduction of an article I wrote for the homemadetools forum.  It shows my low profile clamp...

V-block design is very important to the utility of the tool. A proper V-block like the one in the center in the photo has bolt-on, low-profile clamps that won't interfere with the milling machine or drill press chuck. Moreover, the clamps remain inboard of the sides so the block can be laid on its side with the workpiece still clamped as would be required if drilling orthogonal holes.

The less expensive block on the left is more commonly seen. It can't be laid on its side and the tall clamp interferes with everything. There isn't much one can do about laying it over but the obstructing clamp can be fixed. Shown in front is one of a pair of clamps I made; the other is shown mounted on the block on the right. Note the use of brass hold-down screws to prevent marring the workpiece.

Great stuff Marv!  I was looking online at different ones, and saw the ones like you show in the middle of the photo. Some had a screw down through that center peak of the clamping block.


The blocks I have are like you show on the left, with the grooves on the side and no top screw holes. Since they are hardened, not easy to convert, but that would be a good style if I remade everything. I like that low profile one you show on the right - as you say it keeps the clamp out of the way much better than the tall stock ones. That one could have a set of taller side bars to allow clamping of thicker pieces too. I like how you milled out the side to form the hook end too.

I have two sets of vee blocks, one is like your small ones, 1.25" across/tall, the other set is about 1.75" or 2" across/tall. Never had much use for them since the clamps were so awkward, but with better clamps I could see them being used more.


Now on the list to make the new clamps for them - hope it doesn't turn into one of those 3 year and 20 minute jobs!  Thanks!!
 

[cnr6400]

Looks like that clamp was CHZ3002-747 alloy (Chimpanzium) 

You know the drill. (and the tap, the saw, the mill....)   

[ShopShoe]

Extra info on Vee Blocks:

Tom Lipton presents a discussion on different types and desired features of vee blocks in this video:

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8yszId6ZBA" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8yszId6ZBA</a>

The relevant discussion is at 4:00.

I think he makes some good points for choosing or making the blocks, clamps, and etc.

ShopShoe

[mklotz]

Chris wrote....

" I like that low profile one you show on the right - as you say it keeps the clamp out of the way much better than the tall stock ones. That one could have a set of taller side bars to allow clamping of thicker pieces too."

Taller side bars could be nothing more than rods with a threaded stud on one end and a threaded hole on the other end.  Threads to match the thread used in the screw and hole in the hook ends.  That way one wouldn't need to make new hook ends.

Also, it's possible to replace the crossbar that connects the two hooks with something "sculpted" to fit an odd-shaped part.  Lots of possible variations.

I'm really enjoying your build threads.  Nice concise explanations keyed to great photos.  I've learned lots and my admiration grows with each new submission.

[crueby]

Looks like that clamp was CHZ3002-747 alloy (Chimpanzium) 

You know the drill. (and the tap, the saw, the mill....) 

Well, funny you should mention that - this morning I took the other, still whole, clamp, and with just the pressure of thumb and one finger, was able to snap the silly thing!  Not even a lot of pressure!  I think they were made from old crackers.   

[crueby]

Extra info on Vee Blocks:

Tom Lipton presents a discussion on different types and desired features of vee blocks in this video:

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8yszId6ZBA" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8yszId6ZBA</a>

The relevant discussion is at 4:00.

I think he makes some good points for choosing or making the blocks, clamps, and etc.

ShopShoe

Nice overview, thanks!!

[crueby]

Chris wrote....

" I like that low profile one you show on the right - as you say it keeps the clamp out of the way much better than the tall stock ones. That one could have a set of taller side bars to allow clamping of thicker pieces too."

Taller side bars could be nothing more than rods with a threaded stud on one end and a threaded hole on the other end.  Threads to match the thread used in the screw and hole in the hook ends.  That way one wouldn't need to make new hook ends.

Also, it's possible to replace the crossbar that connects the two hooks with something "sculpted" to fit an odd-shaped part.  Lots of possible variations.

I'm really enjoying your build threads.  Nice concise explanations keyed to great photos.  I've learned lots and my admiration grows with each new submission.

Thanks much Marv! Great to have you along!

[crueby]

So, this morning set up the vertical rotary table and tailstock, to mill the flats and drill the holes in the columns. Using the larger chuck I picked up last year that happens to have the same spindle thread as the sherline, though it only fits on the lathe with the riser blocks in. It has a deeper offset behind the jaws and a larger counterbore there, so the straight section on the end of the column can be held in the jaws.


The flats were milled on the three ball sections, the small one at the top just on one side, the other two on both sides. The small upper one gets its flat 90 degrees from the other two, its for an angle brace up to the cylinder block.


then drilled the holes, large one for the control rod bearing, medium one for the fixed crossbar, and smallest for the angle brace. The last one gets threaded, and does not go all the way through.

After making a few more bars and threading the ends on some of them, here is the assembly so far. The two vertical columns, two angled stay rods that go through angled holes in the engine bed, the large crossbar to move the reverse links, and the smaller crossbar that is fixed with nuts at either end. There are still a number of brackets to make and fix to the bottom plate on the cylinders to hold the vertical and angled rods.

Getting crowded under there! Glad I made the con rods and crossheads first!

[Michael S.]

The result looks perfect!

Michael 🍻

[crueby]

The result looks perfect!

Michael 🍻

Thanks  Michael! The front columns are about half done, more to add...

[cnr6400]

 

[crueby]

Got a start today on some fiddly bits, the brackets for the top of the columns.


They will bolt in to the bottom of the cylinders

After these are done, next will be two more brackets for the angled rods between the cylinders...

[cnr6400]