Making Progress

[Jasonb]

Or more precisely a replica of the Stuart Models "Progress SH"

99 years ago in 1924 Stuart introduced the "progress" range of six engines all sharing a similar bore and stroke and consisting of horizontal and vertical oscillators, horizontal and vertical slide valve engines, a mill engine and an undertype engine. Production ran up until about 1941 with only the horizontal oscillator being reintroduced a few years ago.

The subject of this thread is the Progress SH standing for Slide valve Horizontal an engine of similar style to the well known S50 with a bore of 1/2" and a stroke of 3/4"



A reprint of the booklet mentioned in the above catalogue extract is still available from Tee Publishing and covers all the engines in the range with building notes as well as drawings so that is what I started with. As with my other recreations of long lost small engines I set to and redrew it in metric with a 12mm bore and 20mm stroke in Alibre, exporting some parts to F360 to make use of the CAM function to generate the G-code needed for the CNC mill.



When I originally started to draw this up I had intended to build up the main bed "casting" from some 2" x 1" aluminium flat bar adding the bearing and guide rail bosses to the top as well as the cylinder support as a separate piece. However as I got closer to making a start I had second thoughts and decided that the bed would make an interesting part to cut from almost one solid block. looking around at prices it was more economical to start with 40 x 60 flat EN3 steel than 2" imperial steel or aluminium stock so a length was ordered from M-Machine and duly milled down to the required 34mm finished height with the length and width plus 2mm to give a 1mm all round machining allowance for the. While it was an easy to hold rectangular block I milled and tapped 3 pockets for teh feet which will be done as separate parts to reduce the waste material. I also tapped tow M8 holes so that I could mount the stock to a block that could inturn be held in the machine vice



To reduce the amount of CNC time I sawed out one corner of the block and modelled that in F360 to use as my setup stock, her you can see the part lurking within the "L" shaped stock



A second setup was required to maching out the material under the cylinder support



This shot shows the results of an adaptive clearing tool path that leaves a series of steps on the sloping surfaces as they all have a draft angle to mimic the casting and one of the finishing paths has just started to work it's way down around the near bearing block boss.



And once all the finish paths have been completed. I also drilled all the holes at this setup with the CNC but manually tapped them although I did reposition the spindle above each hole to help guide the tap vertically



From a slightly different angle the light falling on the more matt near vertical faces shows where the draft angle feathers out under the cylinder support the brighter material which is the vertical "shadow" below will be removed with the second setup



I did muck up my edge finding for the second op but was able to recover things by using some U-pol Rapid filler and running the cut again in the correct position, you can just see the lighter coloured filler on the right hand inner face of the support webs.



While the CNC was warm I also did the three feet on that doing both the milled profile and the two holes, these were then sawn off the scraps of bar, machined to 4mm thick and then screwed and JBWelded into the pockets on the underside of the bed.

[Jo]

  So I am having a  moment: why is this your own design not a reproduction (possibly scaled) of the original Stuart Design?

Jo

[crueby]

Because its not quite the same design? Reworked for metric sizes, shapes are slightly different  around the ends, no lettering  on the side, etc. Same general type but newly drawn.


Lookinggood, will be interesting to  watch along!

[Jo]

I think scaling dimensions or  blending curves are not sufficient to get round copyright law   .

I'm sure Jason will let us know why his is different 

Jo

[kuhncw]

Jason,

Thanks for starting another of your instructive threads.

Chuck

[Dave Otto]

Looks like another very nice project Jason!

Dave

[Jasonb]

So I am having a  moment: why is this your own design not a reproduction (possibly scaled) of the original Stuart Design?

Well that is the section of the forum I have put about 15 other engines in where I have built my own version. So why kick up a fuss now?

Don't see you suggesting to the likes of Julius that he is getting round copyright when ever he posts a new set of drawing and makes them public, at least I'm just designing for myself.

I'm hardly just scaling dimensions if the bore has gone down from 1/2" to 12mm and the stroke gone up from 3/4" to 20mm. I have also made improvements to the published design such as incorporating a steam/air inlet as the original does not show how you were supposed to get steam into the engine  , this meant I was able to run the engine this afternoon pity all those before who could not get theirs to run not that that is a problem for some.

Where would you suggest I post this build? It is not following a published set of plans, not from a casting kit, not a restoration so as far as I can see I only have "your designs" to post it in.

[Vixen]

I think scaling dimensions or  blending curves are not sufficient to get round copyright law   .

I'm sure Jason will let us know why his is different 

Jo

Jo,

Are you suggesting that every builder of a scale model, of any type, is potentially in breach of copyright law?

Mike

[Jo]

So I am having a  moment: why is this your own design not a reproduction (possibly scaled) of the original Stuart Design?

Well that is the section of the forum I have put about 15 other engines in where I have built my own version. So why kick up a fuss now?

Because there are people who do their own model design from scratch (like Vixen and GeorgeB  and their various engines) which is the intent for the "Own design" area which is to show our  appreciation of their total design capabilities, knowledge, and skills, from initial concept for a model engine through to final execution of that engine .

There are a great many excellent existing model engine designs that could be updated to reflect modern practises/measurements. The updating of these existing designs require a different set of skills to update them and I am unconvinced that that considerable re-work constitutes claiming the design for their own but it is definitely a design from existing plans and we have an area for those .

Don't see you suggesting to the likes of Julius that he is getting round copyright when ever he posts a new set of drawing and makes them public, at least I'm just designing for myself.

His drawings are posted in the plans and drawings area. He does not seek to claim the design as his own or to take credit for the design other than having successfully scaled and each of his drawings identify the originator (Julius is very good at complying with Copyright Law with his drawings in putting acknowledgement of the original design in each and every one of his drawings    ).

Jo

[Jo]

I think scaling dimensions or  blending curves are not sufficient to get round copyright law   .

I'm sure Jason will let us know why his is different 

Jo

Jo,

Are you suggesting that every builder of a scale model, of any type, is potentially in breach of copyright law?

Mike

I am suggesting that if you take an existing set of model engine drawings and scale it, even taking into account standard material dimensions, you cannot claim the resulting drawing set as your own design, copyright law requires that you at least acknowledge the origin (ownership) of the design on your drawings. 

Jo

P.S. I cannot see Stuart being fussy as the progress casting set is so cheap 

[Jasonb]

Well I know you said recently "I even find reading (the forum) a bit of a challenge"  but if my opening line is not acknowledging the origin then what is?

"Or more precisely a replica of the Stuart Models "Progress SH""

As I'm not making the drawings available to anyone else what does copyright have to do with it anyway? infact I have not even printed off a set of working drawings even for myself, I just take what I need from the 3D model and make a rough sketch on a scrap of paper.

If you can concentrate long enough to follow the whole build you will see that I have also altered my design to more closely follow what I have researched by looking at examples of existing engines and included features on these that are not shown on the drawings, changed parts that looked "too heavy" to by eye or parts that I simply did not like the look of, etc

P.S. I cannot see Stuart being fussy as the progress casting set is so cheap

You really are having a moment, as I said the progress in question has not been made since 1941 so how the hell do you know it is a cheap set of castings?

[Vixen]

I think scaling dimensions or  blending curves are not sufficient to get round copyright law   .

I'm sure Jason will let us know why his is different 

Jo

Jo,

Are you suggesting that every builder of a scale model, of any type, is potentially in breach of copyright law?

Mike

I am suggesting that if you take an existing set of model engine drawings and scale it, even taking into account standard material dimensions, you cannot claim the resulting drawing set as your own design, copyright law requires that you at least acknowledge the origin (ownership) of the design on your drawings. 

Jo

P.S. I cannot see Stuart being fussy as the progress casting set is so cheap 

According to that logic; If Jason were to call his engine a "Bellamy Progress SH", he would be in breach of your copyright laws but calling it a "Stuart Models Progress SH replica" would not, as he acknowledges the origin (ownership) of the design. 

BTW, there is not a specific "Scale Models" category, we can only chose from "your own design" "from kits/castings" or "From plans". That leaves me confused as to where my Mercedes Benz and Bristol Mercury and Bristol Jupiter engines should reside.  Currently they are in "your own design" but clearly the originals were designed by the companies named

Mike

[Jo]

I think we are digging a hole here.   

I believe Mike that you took the original drawings/concept of the Bristol Jupiter/Mercury engines and developed a much smaller design to enable you to produce a model design of your own. Full sized engines do not immediately scale there is a lot of work required to get a working much smaller model engine or a reasonable scale static model. Actually it may have been our mutual friend in the south of France who started the model design for at least one of those engines  But you are doing a substantial amount of design work to complete it.

I asked why this was Jason's original design rather than a copy of Stuart's design.

Jo

P.S. The last sets of Progress SH castings I saw sold for sale were £25 each. I call that cheap, others may disagree and think it was expensive.  I did not buy them 

[Vixen]

I think we are digging a hole here.   
          ...snip...
Jo

"digging a hole here" Yes, that's what I thought.
I was surprised you brought up the subject in the first place.
Perhaps there was a hidden agenda.   

Mike

[steamer]

Ok folks    either way it's a model steam engine.   Or amodel 4 stroke...what have you.    This hobby is down right small and we are the ones doing it.   Let's just support eachother .

He'll my VP heard I made small engines and thought I was into toy trains.    It's a wierd bunch we shed dwellers..and we do this for the first "Chuff" or Pop... and few understand that other than the members here.   So let's leave it now.

Dave

[Charles Lamont]

As I understand it, Jasonb has taken an illustration of an existing design as a basis, and produced his own design that is intended to have a similar appearance. I can't see any infringement of the forum guidelines.   

[steamer]

As I understand it, Jasonb has taken an illustration of an existing design as a basis, and produced his own design that is intended to have a similar appearance. I can't see any infringement of the forum guidelines.   

I agree with you Charles.    My position is not about the subject matter.....It's the tone.   

[Jasonb]

Dave can I ask who's tone?

As a Moderator can you answers the question I asked earlier and that has also been raised by Mike (Vixen) so I can avoid ruffling feathers in the future.

Well that is the section of the forum I have put about 15 other engines in where I have built my own version. So why kick up a fuss now?

Where would you suggest I post this build? It is not following a published set of plans, not from a casting kit, not a restoration so as far as I can see I only have "your designs" to post it in.

I'm also showing how I built it so it can't go in Showcase either.

[Jo]

My original query came from Jason's statement that he had started from a (part?) set of published drawings of this model from the Tee publishing booklet:

A reprint of the booklet mentioned in the above catalogue extract is still available from Tee Publishing and covers all the engines in the range with building notes as well as drawings so that is what I started with. As with my other recreations of long lost small engines I set to and redrew it in metric with a 12mm bore and 20mm stroke in Alibre, exporting some parts to F360 to make use of the CAM function to generate the G-code needed for the CNC mill.

In which case I would have put it in the built from plans area. In the past I have thought similar on a few of Jason's the other Stuart reproductions.  The world isn't going to end if it stays here.

Jo

[Jasonb]

I cannot see Stuart being fussy as the progress casting set is so cheap

P.S. The last sets of Progress SH castings I saw sold for sale were £25 each.

So Jo where did you see this £25, was it from Stuarts as your first statement the use of "IS" suggests they are still sold yet the second comment suggests you saw some second hand sets for sale?

The current price delivered of the only engine in the Progress range that Stuarts still sell is £129.70, I would expect that if they were still producing the SH it would be at least that if not a bit more as there are more parts and it's larger maybe £150. If you have the £25 shown in an old Stuart catalogue that would be quite interesting to see but for now I'm happy that it has cost me about £30-35 in materials which is not bad considering the cost of a progress flywheel alone is £26.30

[Jo]

So Jo where did you see this £25, was it from Stuarts as your first statement the use of "IS" suggests they are still sold yet the second comment suggests you saw some second hand sets for sale?

Tony and Helen (who go to the midlands show and have a stall selling tools who I can't remember the name of ?J Tooling    ) picked up about 20 sets of castings for them some years back. I think they came from a Technical College or school.

  Last time I looked the Progress was about £75 https://www.stuartmodels.com/product/stuart-progress-unmachined/ 

Jo

[Jasonb]

I just looked too £101 plus £8.50 postage plus vat, you should have snapped them up

PS HJ Tooling.

[Charles Lamont]

I think I should have read the OP more carefully.

[Vixen]

Hello Jason,

Now that the copyright nonsense has died down, can I ask you about the machining of the sloped, draft angle, surfaces?

Or more precisely a replica of the Stuart Models "Progress SH"

..... snip... 

This shot shows the results of an adaptive clearing tool path that leaves a series of steps on the sloping surfaces as they all have a draft angle to mimic the casting and one of the finishing paths has just started to work it's way down around the near bearing block boss.



...snip...

You appear to have used a radius (bull nose) cutter. So, what step depth and sideways stepover did you use? The steps are just visible in the photo shown, maybe due to the lighting. Did you need to file or rub down the surface, or was a coat or two of high build primer sufficient to hide the steps.

Cheers

Mike

[Jasonb]

Afternoon Mike

The picture quote shows the result of the adaptive cuts which were done with a 3 flute standard length cutter around the sticky up bits and then I changed to a long series 4 flute one for the remainder as the total height of the part is 34mm which does not give me much to grip on teh standard 50mm OA length cutters. These were done 5 - 6mm deep x 0.6mm sideways step over then final steps up of 1mm which is what you can see



I have then started to do the 2degree draft angles using a 4 flute 6mm cutter with a 1mm convex corner radius, this is standard length 50mm OA but as cuts are very small (0.3mm material left from adaptive) I was happy to hold the slightly shorter than ideal shank. I have the ramp path set as a maximum stepdown of 0.25mm so the tool is constantly dropping as it makes each loop around the feature with no more than 0.25mm drop over the whole loop.



The ramp won't do the flat horizontal surfaces so I did tow "flat" paths, one for the top of the main solid base



And then another for the higher bits between the guide rail bosses



I think Chris mentioned early on that some of my fillets and corner radii were smaller than those shown on the catalogue image which they are as when I first started to draw this up I was thinking of using 2" wide stock which meant that I had to narrow the base and all the parts that fit to it to suit and one consequence of this was having to use the 1mm radius. Had I used say a 4mm 4-flute ball nose cutter the finish would be even better, I'll take a couple of close ups for you later

Having done the  when it fired up as soon as it was given a wisp of air I have now got it stripped down for final touches and painting and I'll probably give it a quick going over with a dremel grinding point to give a bit of "cast" texture. But base don other parts done in a similar way the surface is paint ready. This was the base for the Stuart Simplex Replica done with teh same cutter (getting a bit blunt now) the black specs are poor quality cast iron as I used an old multigym weight for that part



Apart from a quck deburr of teh edges this is it with one light coat of Upol High5, no sign or the near horizontal ramp passes down the sides





I did use the CNC quite a bit on this so as there seems to be interest I'll include those bits and some video clips.

[Vixen]

Thanks Jason,

So the steps I could see (1mm steps) were the 2nd roughing (pre finish) cuts using a standard end mill. The finish cuts being done with a 1.0mm radius cutter in R/4 (0.25mm) steps; which explains why the were not visible in the later photos.

Nice work

Mike

[Jasonb]

Yes thats it mike the photo shows the steps left by the adaptive.

I did get a couple of cans out this afternoon and gave it a quick squirt, With either standard or high build primer the surface is good enough to go straight to paint

High5 on th eleft, bare metal in the middle



Standard grey primer



All a bit academic now as I've hit it with the Dremel as well as a bit of body filler to fillet the joint between feet and bed



Talking of the feet this is how I did them. Popped a bit of scrap 3/8 x 1" black bar roughly in the vive, flattened the top, adaptive and two contour passes to get the oblong shape and then a couple of 3mm holes with a split point stub drill. Repeat 3 times. It's a lot easier than filing buttons

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F38CMliuZfA" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F38CMliuZfA</a>

I know some are interested in how long these things take, the computer says 3hrs 28mins for the bed, I would say it came out closer to 4hrs total which makes 3D printers look a bit slow and there is also no clean up required should I have wanted to machine this as a pattern rather than a part.

While we are still covering the bed I noticed that images of existing engines on the net did not have the lip running around the back of the bed which was shown on the GA drawing that I had initially found and started to work from. Once I found out that the booklet contained details of all the engines I bought that hoping for some clarity but it was just the same drawing.

Typical existing engine


Extract from GA


I can only assume that it was found easier to produce the casting without the lip at the back due to the overhanging cylinder bracket and it was omitted for production. Which is what I have also done, can't get replica detail like that simply by multiplying by 25.4

[Johnmcc69]

 Somehow I missed all this.

 Nice work Jason! I like what you're doing with it.

 

 
John

[marcel]

book the stuart

[Jasonb]

Those images and page from the booklet where what I used when I first started looking into this project, no doubt taken from the same site I used

https://www.ekt-modelle.de/Stuart-Progress-SH1.htm

[Michael S.]

I really like Stuart's little machine and I'm looking forward to the result of your own design.

I once bought just the castings of the base and the two crosshead guides for the Stuart D 10 and made the rest myself.

Michael

[Jasonb]

The main bearings started life as two pieces of bronze that were milled to overall size before being drilled and reamed 5mm



I then used the CNC mill to shape the tops to profile. As the flute length of the 3mm cutter I was using was 8mm was the same depth as the stock I did not quite run the adaptive and contour cuts to the full depth of the material.



<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ph_9P0z4BHk" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ph_9P0z4BHk</a>

They were then mounted onto a simple arbor so that each side could have 1mm turned off just leaving  a raised boss around the hole, I used a CCGT insert with 0.8mm tip radius to leave a nice internal fillet.



A piece of steel bar was faced, drilled and reamed 5mm and then transfered to the CNC to have both the outer profile and the recessed areas milled away as well as drilling the offset hole for the crank pin.



After sawing the crank off from the end of the bar it was Locteted to a length of 5mm PGMS and when set the end was faced back to thickness while holding the shaft in a collet, this gets the face perpendicular to the shaft regardless of any misalignment there may be in the Loctite joint



The two cylinder end covers were worked on either end of a short stub of 30mm cast iron bar



And then after sawing in half the external faces were machined, here the one for the piston rod end has had a rough boss turned which will be shaped into an ellipse later.



My largest 28mm 5C collet in a block held the covers while they were drilled 2mm for the studs and tapped M1.6 for the gland.



I also made a start on the valve chest, machining some cast iron to overall size, drilling and counterboring for the valve rod and it's gland and also tapping M1.6 for the gland studs.



Two glands were turned from bronze bar and then screwed to their respective parts which were then machined as one. The CNC makes a good job of machining true ellipses and combined with a cutter with 1mm corner radius leaves a nice fillet in the internal corners. Most of the images of existing engines I found had the gland boss horizontal rather than vertical as shown on the General Arrangement so I set mine out the same as it is easier to get to the studs at either side than having one tucked down at the bottom of the engine



Usual adaptive and two contour passes to finish

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9qWiGYBhCI" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9qWiGYBhCI</a>

[Chipswitheverything]

Jason, Though I am unlikely to be doing it at any time, I am finding the details of how the CNC techniques for certain processes mix in well with other procedures of conventional machining, with flexibility in choice.  Particularly struck me with the oval glands and bosses that you have done.  When I did that long ago on my Stuart No 1 engine, I formed the major sides of the oval by offset turning in the lathe, that was OK, but then had to do the small rads by filing with buttons, which means some difficulty working on the cast iron part where it meets the main face of the steam-chest or other casting.  Dave

[Jasonb]

Thanks Dave, yes although I still like using the manual machines the CNC is good for certain operations so as I have it I may as well make use of it and I have done quite a bit on this engine.

The cylinder started life as a piece of 40mm cast iron bar that was faced and cleaned up on it's OD before turning around in the 3-jaw to face the other end to the finished 28mm length before drilling, boring and then reaming 12mm.



Over to the manual mill and the post face will cut to finished size, 1mm oversize on the other three sides, as there was not much difference between the dimensions I made sure to mark which face was which so I did not get mixed up. I'm using APKT insert sin the 63mm facemill which are meant for aluminium but they work well on all metals and cut a lot smoother in a lightweight hobby mill, it's a similar principal of using **GT insert for fine work in the lathe



I had originally intended to either fabricate the cylinder from bronze (six pieces) or possibly manually cut from iron with not such nice feet but decided to have a go on the CNC, at worse I'd waste a couple of pounds worth of cast iron bar. I used two setups, this shows the one from below which was followed by a similar one  from the op down to the half way line but without the feet. The internal fillets are probably a bit large for this size of part but the 4mm ball nosed cutter had the required length as the shank was also 4mm and did not cause any collisions. I could have cleaned up where the flange meets the foot a bit more with two more setups but just filed it as there was so little metal to remove, it's all hidden by cladding anyway.



I use a 6mm cutter with an adaptive path to remove the majority of the material and then a 3D scallop with 0.2mm stepover to do the final shaping which is what you can see here.

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqME6111laQ" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqME6111laQ</a>

Although I could have done the rest on the CNC I went back to the manual mill to do the steam ports and valve chest stud holes



And then the pattern of six stud holes in each end, a hole down to the posts and a slot to link that hole to the cylinder end



The valve chest had the waste material removed by stitch drilling



And then the internal faces were milled to leave a 4mm wall thickness

[Jasonb]

I'm not keen on the "+" shaped reinforcing ribs that Stuarts used on the valve chest cover as they look out of place on a small freelance engine and are not done that well anyway so I opted for an elliptical recess to tie in with the shape of the glands and to keep things similar also turned a round recess in the cylinder end cover rather than the conical protruding one Stuarts used.



The eccentric strap is shown completely split in two with a pair of bolts holding the two halve stogether but as it's a simple beginners engine I decided to use a design like that use don teh 10 series engines with a single split and pinch bolt which allows some takeup for wear if needed. I started out with some brass that was bored (big end) and reamed (small end) as well as thinning the smaller end from 4mm down to 3mm on the manual mill



A couple of top hat bosses allowed the part to be held down while the CNC did it's thing of my usual adaptive path to remove the majority of the waste, two contour passes to finish the outer profile and then a scallop on either side to form the tapered elliptical section of the rod.



The strap could then be used to gauge the size of the eccentric



Which was then offset in a small 4-jaw to be reamed and have the boss turned down to the required diameter



Not being a fan of bright bling on engines rather than use gun metal for the cross head I went with cast iron. After machining up a lump to the required size it was held in the small 4-jaw to Turn the boss on the end



Before milling the various features so it would run in the guide bars and take the end of the conrod



I previously drew up a flywheel and did the CAM for the One-One which used the Progress flywheel so it was just a case of sawing off another bit of bar and CNC machining another flywheel for about 1/10 the cost of a casting.




I did not take any pictures of the various rods, pins and guide rails as they are all fairly straight forward turning jobs so next post we will see what I looks like with a lick of paint.

[Jasonb]

I decided to use the same Forrest Green and satin black colour combination that I have used for the other Stuart Replicas which did not take long to apply as there are not that many parts and what's there is all quite small





Once the paint had hardened for a couple of days it was put back together checking the movement was free as each part was added rather than trying to work out where a tight spot is when the whole thing has been assembled.









Quite pleased with how it runs on no more than 5psi of air.

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTFTkzr5ynI" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTFTkzr5ynI</a>

I'm not sure what the next small "replica" will be as I'm running out of subjects to do though I expect something will crop up on the web and catch my eye. Something else ran for the first time this weekend so keep an eye out for details of that though I don't think it will be a build thread.

[Johnmcc69]

 
 Very nice engine Jason! I do like the color scheme, & it's a great runner.

 So how many engines is this for you now??

 John

[Michael S.]

I congratulate you on the successful project. A beautiful steam engine!
I like the color very much.
Will the machine also have a wooden base?

Greetings Michael

[Kim]

That's a great little engine, Jason!  Runs well and looks great. What more can you ask for? 

Kim

[Jasonb]

Thanks Chaps

Well I've just had a count up and the one I got running this weekend is number 50 but can't really count that as complete until it's painted

Michael, I will probably leave this one as it is, several of the other little replicas don't have a wooden base so at least I'm consistent.

[Chipswitheverything]

This has produced a most attractive small engine, practical and interesting to display, and the colour suits it well. Interesting that a model steam engine can be as huge and complex as the marine engine behemoth that Crueby is constructing, and as pared down to the essence of a steam engine as this little horizontal, but equally have their use and appeal at either end of the range.  Dave

[Admiral_dk]

Elegant little Engine and a smooth runner too 

I almost thought it was going to get airborne (soundvice) when you gave it the 'Beans' around the two minute mark 

Per

[crueby]

Great job on that engine, beautiful!

[Gas_mantle]

A great little engine, it reminds me of an improved 'potty mill engine'.

I'd love to have a go at one in a scaled up version 

[Hrcoleman]

AS beautiful little runner.

I'm not sure what the next small "replica" will be as I'm running out of subjects to do though I expect something will crop up on the web and catch my eye. Something else ran for the first time this weekend so keep an eye out for details of that though I don't think it will be a build thread.

Can I humbly request one of the early "10" series?  A 10V with the Half standard (#1) Style or the 10H with the earlier cross head style?

Cheers,

Hugh

[Jasonb]

Well I have done a vertical of that style that with it's 24mm bore would make it close to the early No7 No castings needed and could be scaled down to No10 size.



Though since typing that good old Pintrest has come up with a likely next subject, just need to stop that Mr Corry sending me castings that distract me.