steam engine with 40 mm bore

[Djangodog]

Looking great.

[Michael S.]

At the weekend it was the A stand's turn.
A part that is a bit too big for my lathe. The center hole was very precise in the casting and I was able to make a rod to press into the hole. Now the upper edge could be turned to size. But unfortunately I could not edit the lower surface. The Support is in the way. I'm missing more peak height.
I was able to do the job on the old "LOEWE" lathe. But only in very small steps. There were very hard spots around the edges. It worked. When working on the small board, I got to the stand with the lathe tool. It's annoying but I was able to fix it with soft solder.

Michael

[Michael S.]

The old lathe was my salvation. I couldn't drill the hole for the crosshead with the old dinosaurs. The bed has been sanded.


<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36CKZnlBA9s" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=36CKZnlBA9s</a>

[crueby]

Clever setup!   

[Kim]

Wow!  That was quite the setup, with the whirling legs of death and all!  Looks like it worked well for you! 

Kim

[Michael S.]

The bore for the crosshead is 35.00mm and I finished at 34.90 on the lathe. The lathe tool has to be very long and therefore swings a little. I was able to smooth the rest out with the adjustable reamer. With the two-cylinder machine I have to work with a boring bar.
The large slot was drilled out and then milled.
The two foot parts were milled at an angle at the bottom and then brought together to a uniform height and drilled for threads.
It fits together.

Michael

[crueby]

Great progress!   

[Michael S.]

Yes Chris, I hope to get the machine ready in the spring. If not, it doesn't matter.
When the weather gets better soon, there will be a lot to do around the house and in the yard. The tree is already blooming but it snowed again today 😒

Michael

[Michael S.]

Today the first work on the cylinder began. The outside diameter at the flange is quite good for clamping.
The run is good enough.
So I machined the sides and then made the hole. The side where you drilled is then at the bottom of the cylinder. I milled a U for bottom and an O for top. Then I can no longer interchange it.
the holes for the drainage go into the casting attachments provided for this purpose. Unfortunately, they are far too far away from the edge and I drilled at an angle with the cordless screwdriver and a long 2 mm drill at the bottom of the 6 mm hole. as best it could and actually got closer to the edge.

Greetings Michael

[crueby]

Excellent start on the cylinder!  Watching along...

[Kim]

The cylinder is coming along nicely, Michael! 

You did a great job on that free-hand drilling too.  That can be a scary operation 

Kim

[Michael S.]

drilling was a small risk. Do I get too close to the edge or does the drill break off. But the material of the cylinder is very soft, good cast iron with graphite. It would have been better to get even closer to the edge. I didn't know how to do it any other way.

Michael

[Michael S.]

I continued to work on the cylinder. The outer edge still has to be brought to the required diameter.
Milled the openings for steam inlet and outlet and drilled the bore to the cylinder.
I always stick millimeter paper where the channel is marked. Worked very well again.
The steam box is riddled with extremely hard spots in the cast iron. I almost threw it in the trash but it worked in the end. I often had to grind the milling cutter.
Should I have put the part in the oven again to remove the hardness? Or is it no longer possible to get rid of it?

Michael

[Michael S.]

The lid of the steam box was a bit softer and could be worked on well. The top cylinder cover had a hole in the cast iron. I soldered it with soft solder and turned it again in the lathe.
Now the main parts are almost done and the black dust in the workshop will stop.

I wish you a happy Easter

Michael

[crueby]

Looking great!