INFINITY CUBE in WOOD

[Robert Hornby]

I bit the bullet and have drawn up what I intend to make and will use some timber that I have lying about. It an Australian hardwood, SPOTTED GUM, mainly used for polished floor boarding but it does machine and polish up very nicely. (I have made some gear stick knobs for Jaguars out of it - but that is another story).
I will machine the pieces to 18mm x 18mm square in the 3 different lengths. Getting the 45 deg angles will need to be done very carefully as I would like the joints to be free of any gaps.
The overall size of the cube will be 130mm x 130mm x 130mm.  I have attached the drawings via a PDF file so unsure if that will publish. If not I will scan and attach.

[Robert Hornby]

I have scanned my drawings and attached to see if that is better.

[springcrocus]

That seems fun. Look forward to seeing this built "in the flesh" so to speak. 
I believe that some on here consider certain brown-coloured materials to be taboo. 
Regards, Steve

[Alston]

I’ve also done some quick calculations and will be making something similar milled in Aluminium and bolted together with three socket screws. Too cold to work in the shed though and I have other jobs so it could take a while. I look forward to seeing how yours pans out. What adhesive will you be using? I like Urea Formaldehyde for stuff like this.

[Robert Hornby]

I will use Aquadhere, it is just a water-based wood glue. I have used it on many wood joining jobs with 100% success as long as the mating surfaces are clean and true. I use it on my gear stick knobs, they are made from 3 pieces of Spotted Gum.

[Kim]

That's a sharp looking shift Knob, Robert! 

Looking forward to seeing your Infinity Cube too!

Kim

[Roger B]

Looks to be a fun project    Another wood I have never heard of 

[mklotz]

In your first diagram you show shapes C,J,M,R (94 mm long) and F,P (58 mm long) as angled on one end but seemingly square on the other end.  When I look at the second diagram it appears they are angled on both ends, but these angles are cut on orthogonal faces.

Is this correct?

[Robert Hornby]

In your first diagram you show shapes C,J,M,R (94 mm long) and F,P (58 mm long) as angled on one end but seemingly square on the other end.  When I look at the second diagram it appears they are angled on both ends, but these angles are cut on orthogonal faces.

Is this correct?

Quite correct, I missed a line of 'F" and "P" and also 'C' 'J' 'M' 'R' on the cutting list

The angled cuts are on different faces.

[Robert Hornby]

Revision 1 for the cutting list. I have drawn the shape to better show the cut on different faces.

[steam guy willy]

Hi , On the isometric drawing it would be interesting to see all the hidden lines on the back faces of the square timbers , shown dotted to see where they actually go/end up ??
Willy

[Alston]

I will use Aquadhere, it is just a water-based wood glue. I have used it on many wood joining jobs with 100% success as long as the mating surfaces are clean and true. I use it on my gear stick knobs, they are made from 3 pieces of Spotted Gum.

I’ve had creep on several projects using PVA. This becomes particularly noticeable on subsequently turned items. As a result I no longer use PVA for important jobs where creep could end up spoiling it. Probably not an issue in your case though gluing end grain.

[Lew Hartswick]

I surely don't understand all the "emphases" on using mitered corners. Especially on wood ones.  Is it just to avoid seeing any endgrain??
   ...lew...  (an engineer without any "artistic" thought)

[crueby]

I surely don't understand all the "emphases" on using mitered corners. Especially on wood ones.  Is it just to avoid seeing any endgrain??
   ...lew...  (an engineer without any "artistic" thought)

Just like with aa wooden picture frame, using miter joints gives a uniform appearance with the grain looking like it is continuing around the corner, looks more like one continuous piece. When gluing, it also gives a stronger joint, more of a hybrid end grain/side grain surface.

[vtsteam]

Robert, are you going to dowel the joints?

[Robert Hornby]

I surely don't understand all the "emphases" on using mitered corners. Especially on wood ones.  Is it just to avoid seeing any endgrain??
   ...lew...  (an engineer without any "artistic" thought)

Just like with aa wooden picture frame, using miter joints gives a uniform appearance with the grain looking like it is continuing around the corner, looks more like one continuous piece. When gluing, it also gives a stronger joint, more of a hybrid end grain/side grain surface.

Yes the mitered joints just give a more pleasant appearance, and there is a greater surface for the glue.

Hi , On the isometric drawing it would be interesting to see all the hidden lines on the back faces of the square timbers , shown dotted to see where they actually go/end up ??
Willy

 
I did consider showing hidden lines but it got too messy.

No, I won't be dowling the joints, they will not need it.
Robert, are you going to dowel the joints?

[Lew Hartswick]

:-)   Well Rosettes and Plinth blocks use to do great job before mitered joints on window and door trim. I know all about those from doing some work on a house in VA for a few years. :-)
   ...lew...

[Robert Hornby]

Actual progress has commenced with the cutting and mitering of some of the pieces. I am using a home made mitre block which I have dialed in to be sure the cuts are precisely 45 deg. I made a test join with a couple of scrap pieces to see how the join came out and I am happy with it. I tried to pull them apart with my hands but failed and had to give quite a hard knock with a hammer, so the joins will be strong.

[Kim]

That's looking good, Robert!  You'll have it done in no time 

Kim

[Admiral_dk]

Looks like you managed to get some extremely clean 45 degree cuts on the mill 

Per