Building a Redwing

[Admiral_dk]

Interesting Paint-Booth    and nice coat of paint 

Per     

[Twizseven]

Per,
I was fed up of getting overspray on everything around the bench when I sprayed previous models.  The small Wagner spray booth is only available in the States but was delivered very quickly.  I had the LED lights and cable on the shelf, so only had to sort out a wooden base (sat on welding table) and the fume extraction/paint dust collection system.  Pleased with how well it worked.

On the basis that I will hopefully complete some of the 14 odd casting sets I have on the shelf, there will be lots more bits to paint over the next few years.  This assumes health allows as just been diagnosed with Prostate Cancer couple of weeks ago.

Colin

[Kim]

Sorry to hear about the diagnosis, Colin.  Hope they have a good plan to deal with it and that all goes well.
Kim

[Twizseven]

Cheers Kim,
Seeing consultant in two weeks time to discuss recent scans and way forward.  Keeping fingers crossed.
Colin

[Admiral_dk]

If you get the dianose + treatment early enough => All is good (though I do know one that got an infection that took almost a year to cure) and that goes for all I know who and the Operation done.

So I hope that you're early + under all circumstances - that you have a great and long life afterwards.

Fingers crossed and best wishes Colin.

Per         

[ettingtonliam]

When I was diagnosed with prostate cancer about 10 years ago, I opted for radiotherapy rather than surgery. Up to now its been successful, my annual PSA test reads about 0.1 or 0.2.
Good luck!

[Twizseven]

Well it is all painted,assembled, fuel tank in base does not leak, I have electrics connected, I can hear a short suck on inlet as valve opens very slightly, just need to see if the carb works and it starts. 

[Twizseven]

Not going too well so far.  Got the occasional chuff.  Pretty certain cam timing and ignition timing ok.  Fuel appears to be a bit of an issue.  Initially I did not think I was getting any fuel through, so took the carb off and tried to suck to see if the valve would open.  It did not appear to be lifting at all so I removed one coil off the spring.  I could now suck and get the valve to open, if I blew instead there did not appear to be any air leakage down past the valve.  Reassembled and tried again and am now getting leakage around the valve stem.   When the inlet valve opens when piston on downstroke the carburettor valve can be seen to lift slightly and a suck can be heard through the carb inlet, although not particularly heavy suck.  I guess if the engine actually ran then there would be no leakage as the fuel would be pulled into the engine.  I also noticed that the fuel level in the tank was going down and realised that possibly too much fuel was now getting into engine now as it was leaking past the piston.  Pulled the plug and it was wet.

What valve timing and ignition timing have others used.  Also how far have you got the needle valve cracked open.

I know I am getting a spark from the buzz coil as I gave myself a huge belt by accident.

The plug I am using is a CM-6.  It sparks when out of cylinder alright.  Are there any similar plugs with a smaller hex nut on them  I can only remove the plug by lowering the tail end of the exhaust push rod.

Colin

[Alyn Foundry]

Morning Colin.
For engines with electric ignition I always try to aim for a little after TDC initially. This greatly reduces the risk of the engine firing backwards and possibly trapping digits….
Being atmospheric inlet we only need to make sure the exhaust is fully closed at TDC, induction stroke. If your exhaust starts to open just prior to BDC on the power stroke then that’s fine.

Not being familiar with this particular model, is there a check valve on the fuel line from the tank? I’m guessing it’s suction fed ? Hopefully you’re using fresh Petrol? Without a check valve the fuel ends up sloshing backwards and forwards without actually moving. ( from the flooding description I’m guessing there is one )

The CM 6 plug is a 1/4-32 ?

   Graham.

[Jasonb]

I usually find you barely need to open the valve on most model engine carbs if you are getting fuel running out the cylinder then it is too rich.

It does want quite a weak spring on the carb valve, some people run without a spring and let gravity close it. Push the valve in a few times with your finger to make sure there is not a bit of dirt on the seat stopping it closing off the fuel.

A rubber ring in a cordless drill held against the flywheel rim may get things spinning a bit faster and blow out any excess fuel.

Graham it is gravity fed but tank should not be too high anove carb inlet. The carb works a bit like out propane engines carbs with a valve in the carb that is lifted by the flow of air and uncovers a hole in the valve seat for the fuel to enter. It' is a Lunkenheimer type carb.

I don't think you will find a hex smaller then the CM-6 (10mm thread), the champion is the same and most of the other 10mm threaded ones are too long a reach.

[Twizseven]

The tank is in the base of main engine casting and the fuel outlet is on the side, I guess about 5mm up from the bottom. The fuel pipe runs horizontal from this strap got to the fuel inlet on the Lunkenheimer.
Will try to set something up to spin it a little quicker. 

[Twizseven]

Graham, I am using Coleman fuel.

[Twizseven]

I have now fitted new plug, charged the battery up, made nice new leads for the electrics, made and fitted a good fashioned starter dog.  When whizzing it over with the big electric drill I can get the occasional bang as it firs and can feel the sudden speed increase of the flywheel.  At one point it appeared to be running for around 30 seconds and the exhaust was way to hot to touch, but have been unable to replicate this at present.  Felt the spark was possibly a bit light and adjusted the screw on the buzz coil to get a bit bigger spark.

I notice that the brass contact in the insulated ring does appear to get quite dirty, but a quick wipe with fine wire wool cures this.

I have a feeling the the exhaust cam timing may need a bit of adjustment.  Currently when the contact should be made with the brass contact in the insulated bush, the peak of the cam is quite close to the contact and I'm sure I saw a spark jump from the timing lever to the cam rather than the brass contact.

Whilst it is not firing properly the fuel drips from around the carburettor valve spindle, when it appears to fire this leak ceases.

Any thoughts,

Colin

[RJH]

I built a Red Wing about 10 years ago and its run a few 100 hrs. Its a great running engine. I found the spark trigger setup is not the best so I went to a magnet in the timing gear and a FET. The exhaust timing just needs to be set so it is closed before TDC. The mixer valve needs to seal the fuel when closed, you may need to work on that. Just open the needle valve a very little to start with and choke it if it needs more fuel to run.
    Ralph

[Twizseven]

Finally we have a runner   

Hit and Miss needs setting up.

Think I ran out of fuel from the way it slowed down.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/VHGiRwFcckE?feature=share

Youtube video link above.  Cannot get it to embed for some reason.

Colin