Chris's Build of Battleship Ohio Engine

[crueby]

File those arms under "looking great!"    very nice job Chris!

So now I need to make elbows, hands, etc?   

[steamer]

That's awesome Chris!!    Man your cranking this out!

I'm working all weekend!....13 hours today

more tomorrow

Dave

[cnr6400]

Well probably, if you are doing the engine room piping, and / or an engine telegraph or engine room clock....  

[crueby]

That's awesome Chris!!    Man your cranking this out!

I'm working all weekend!....13 hours today

more tomorrow

Dave

Yuck!  Hope you get some time and good weather to work on your  own projects  soon! 




Edit:  wait,  'crank'ing this out..,      

[crueby]

Well probably, if you are doing the engine room piping, and / or an engine telegraph or engine room clock....

Wow, a clock at this scale...       An engine  room telegraph  would look great next to the valves and levers though...  hmm...

[cnr6400]

Don't want to distract you at all, but "all ahead full" 

(brrriiinng brrrriiing)

[crueby]

Don't want to distract you at all, but "all ahead full" 

(brrriiinng brrrriiing)

Ahead Full!   I think...


Oh, wait, the other ahead, um, er, oh yeah, Astern Full!  Thats it!   

[cnr6400]

After the captain of the red ship went ashore, he's been a regular guest on the Wham Bam Dashcam channel in Youtube I think! 

[tghs]

Well probably, if you are doing the engine room piping, and / or an engine telegraph or engine room clock....

Wow, a clock at this scale...       An engine  room telegraph  would look great next to the valves and levers though...  hmm...

you'll have to add all the bells and whistles,, mostly bells...

[crueby]

Well probably, if you are doing the engine room piping, and / or an engine telegraph or engine room clock....

Wow, a clock at this scale...       An engine  room telegraph  would look great next to the valves and levers though...  hmm...

you'll have to add all the bells and whistles,, mostly bells...

At this size the bells would have to be tiny ones unless hidden inside some other nearby piece. Could do that, and also hide away another little crank to mimic the signalling from the bridge through the normal chains/cables.  Hmmm...

[crueby]

Got some more done on the crank arms - most of today was spent playing out at the pond with the RC submarine group. Perfect weather for it, yesterday was cold and an inch of rain, today was bright and sunny, lots of fun!

Yesterday I had done some turning on the lathe, started with some square bar and turned the ends for the cross bars which will hold the connecting bars that lead out to the Stephenson links


Then threaded the outer ends and made some retaining nuts from hex bar

Next up will be to make the handwheels and threaded rods..

[Michael S.]

Can I understand it to mean that the control for each cylinder can be set individually on the handwheels?
To find the best run for each individual cylinder.

Michael

[crueby]

Can I understand it to mean that the control for each cylinder can be set individually on the handwheels?
To find the best run for each individual cylinder.

Michael

Correct. All the arms are attached to the long shaft across the frames, with keyways to keep them moving together. Each crank arm can be set separately to fine tune the throw of each reverse link. That could be adjusted without any dismantling of any of the linkages, while the engine is running.

[Charles Lamont]

It took me a little while to work out why the slot is at a funny angle to the arm. It is quite a subtle piece of geometry. It appears to be designed so that the cylinder can be 'linked-up' running ahead, but the adjustment has very little effect on the timing when running astern.

If the slot were at right angles to the arm radius, as one might at first expect, then any adjustment for running ahead would result in over-travel of the expansion link when moved across to the astern position. Or someone would have to frantically un-twiddle the knobs before yanking the reversing handle.

[crueby]

Got the handwheels and threaded rods made up. The handwheels had the post end turned and drilled/threaded on the end of a piece of roundbar, then were parted off and dripped by the post to turn the outer end. Then over to the rotary table to drill the holes around the perimeter of the wheel.

The shop elves got them assembled for me. The nut at the opposite end from the wheel was loctited onto the threaded rod, and after dry it was assembled, with another nut acting as a jam nut against the wheel.

Looks like last step for them is to get the keyways cut into the long shaft on the side of the frames!