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May I suggest you try making the bits to drawing before you try modifying them or making improved ones.
Then the feck-up fairy dropped in for coffee.
QuoteThen the feck-up fairy dropped in for coffee.Yea - don't you just hate some uninvited guests
The need for a large ctr hole could also have been considerably reduced if the topslide had just been set over to cut the short taper,
using such a long length of bar you would have had to offset 3-4 times as much and with the other end in a 4-jaw rather than between ctrs means the bar has to be bent which probably added to the over heating problems
The geometry didn't work - I couldn't do that without the topslide fouling on the tailstock, and the saddle would be off the front of the bed if I tried it the other way.
That is often a problem when working with tailstock support. My solution was the extended toolholder shown here: http://www.charleslamont.me.uk/iqc_toolpost4.html
BTW, Your Myford should have come with a catchplate as part of its standard equipment.
Looks like things are progressing in good order for you Allen, although I have to say that I am a bit put-off at seeing that drill chuck key hanging out there while the machine is running.
I'm struggling to see the reason for all that scrap steel!
The crank web drawing is (for me) remarkably unhelpful because while the dimensions might describe the part they don't give me anything I can actually machine to for the two angled faces. No doubt Jason will tell me that they are perfectly adequate because a real machinist will turn the round features and then mark out the angled faces on the back of an apprentice for hand filing or shaping with a stone club or something, but I have a lathe and a (sort of) mill and that's what I want to use.
The pin was 2.5mm dia in a 2.8mm bore. Quite how those undercuts for the O-ring cavities were to be made doesn't seem to have occurred to the designer, let alone how the specified 5x3x2 O-rings were going to get in there afterwards...AS
Plus 'DO NOT SCALE'!
A good fit between the valve and the little block that holds it to the valve rod is more important.
Just be careful that the leverage of the cutting forces (which can be considerable) don't act to unscrew the web from the shaft during machining.Personally, I'd mark out the shape of the web then cut off the bulk of the waste with a hacksaw in the vice, and either finish it by hand methods, or put the web in the machine vice and end mill the flats down to the marked lines.