Tiny ratchet wrench box

[gbritnell]

Awhile back one of the contributors on this forum, Chris Creuby, built a small ratchet. I liked the idea so I took my 1/4 inch Craftsman ratchet and scaled it by 1/2. I bought the sockets from Wiha. Since I got into 3D printing several months ago I thought it was time to make a proper home for the tools so I drew up a box for them and printed it out. It's much nicer than the ZipLoc bag they were living in. The box is silver PLA. I haven't quite figures out how to get rid of the horizontal lines in my prints yet so I did a little filing on the finished pieces.

[Kim]

A very nice box for a beautiful tool!

Kim

[kvom]

Interesting project.  I have a set of Wiha small nut drivers, and I've never felt the need of a ratchet to turn them. 

[Admiral_dk]

A very nice Tool Box with some Great Tools of your usual standard George.

I do not follow the many different updates and Slicers, but I have noticed that at least one of them claims that they have solved the surface issues + uses a lot less 'Filler Material' ...!
And this was shown on Youtube - sorry but I do not remember what Program / Slicer - not Prusa, but maybe Cura ... 

Per

[crueby]

Nicely done!!

[ddmckee54]

George:

With an FDM printer a part is ALWAYS going to look like it's made out of Lincoln Logs, it's just the nature of the beast.

If you print with ABS, you can solvent bond or vapor smooth using acetone.  PLA needs some NASTY solvents for a solvent bond, and vapor smoothing is not recommended.  Well maybe if you stay upwind in the middle of an open field you could do it. 

Your only viable option with an FDM printer is decreasing your layer height.  You still get the Lincoln Log look, they're just harder to see.  I was amazed at the difference in surface finish between a 0.2mm layer height, and a 0.1 layer height.  Of course your print time increases proportionally. 

If you want a really smooth sidewall with an FDM printer using PLA, about your only option is filling and sanding.  Unless it's something I REALLY care about, I just tolerate the Lincoln Log look.

Don

[ddmckee54]

Per:

Some slicers allow you to "plane" the top layer, and I think Cura is one of them.  This is using the hot extruder nozzle to go over the flat surface a 2nd time, without extruding anything, to smooth out the top layer.  Works great on the top layer, but does nothing for the sidewalls.

Don

[crueby]

I've had good results using automotive glaze putty and sanding. As was said, smaller layer hieght helps too. Some slicers call that plane option Ironing.

[Don1966]

I want one! George my friend that is a very nice wrench set in miniature to have. Your still my hero buddy….   



 
Don

[Admiral_dk]

I'm sure you're right about the Top Layer Don - but if we combine with a few other comments here - then one solution (not to perfect - just much better), would be to set the Slicer to have a 0.1mm Top, Bottom and Outside Layers and the rest much coarser ....

I'm sure the Slicer I can't remember the name of could all this automatically in the latest version - giving a much better surface on all sides, faster printing time and consume less material and keeping strength of Print. The Tester said it was a very big leap in Slicing Tech .... I just wish my memory could take such a leap forward (or should I say back to before my accident  ).

No matter, as others has given a few clues here - it can be improved one way or another.

Per

[crueby]

I'm sure you're right about the Top Layer Don - but if we combine with a few other comments here - then one solution (not to perfect - just much better), would be to set the Slicer to have a 0.1mm Top, Bottom and Outside Layers and the rest much coarser ....

I'm sure the Slicer I can't remember the name of could all this automatically in the latest version - giving a much better surface on all sides, faster printing time and consume less material and keeping strength of Print. The Tester said it was a very big leap in Slicing Tech .... I just wish my memory could take such a leap forward (or should I say back to before my accident  ).

No matter, as others has given a few clues here - it can be improved one way or another.

Per

Outside layers at .1 thickness? You can't have one part of a layer different thickness than the rest of that layer, can you? I'm reading that as the outside of the box, the vertical walls. Or do you mean something else?   

[Pete49]

George:

With an FDM printer a part is ALWAYS going to look like it's made out of Lincoln Logs, it's just the nature of the beast.

If you print with ABS, you can solvent bond or vapor smooth using acetone.  PLA needs some NASTY solvents for a solvent bond, and vapor smoothing is not recommended.  Well maybe if you stay upwind in the middle of an open field you could do it. Your only viable option with an FDM printer is decreasing your layer height.  You still get the Lincoln Log look, they're just harder to see.  I was amazed at the difference in surface finish between a 0.2mm layer height, and a 0.1 layer height.  Of course your print time increases proportionally.  If you want a really smooth sidewall with an FDM printer using PLA, about your only option is filling and sanding.  Unless it's something I REALLY care about, I just tolerate the Lincoln Log look.
Don

Sorry Don but I have to disagree. The photo I'm uploading is a close up of a print from my Creality 3v2 printer and straight out of the box. I have since refined it a little so no the Lincoln Log look is not normal with most modern FDM printers properly tuned. The print is PLA with no smoothing or fill.
Pete

[Admiral_dk]

You are right Chris - wrong thought / memory - it wasn't 0.1mm sidewalls.

I had started on trying write a better explanation - but I got an idea about how to find the original video :

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OuJZHWo1kPE" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OuJZHWo1kPE</a>

Again I see that my memory is flawed (nothing new)  so it isn't really the surface quality there is improved       - but still new features that I expect to see in the other Slicers before the end of the year.

Per

[Admiral_dk]

I had a look on some of the other hits in the above search .... Lo and behold (I knew my Prusa Slicer was advanced - but sometimes the obvious + not so obvious stares you in the face) - here Stefan gives a very good show on how to use some of the really great feature that can have big impact on what we talk about.

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7eKL7AhzNg" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7eKL7AhzNg</a>

Ironing and other Top Surface settings in Prusa :

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xa8jNJjowvI" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xa8jNJjowvI</a>

And remember Prusa Slicer works on other Brands too 

Per

[ddmckee54]

Pete - OK, Lincoln Logs is my term.

If you substitute "visible layer lines" for every place that I said Lincoln Logs you get a little closer to what I'm talking about.  Our 3D printers are really nothing more than glorified hot glue guns.  When they are printing a layer the plastic is under pressure when it comes out of the nozzle.  It's going to want to squish out in every direction that it is not restricted.  It can't flow up because the nozzle will be limiting it to the specified layer thickness, it can't flow down beyond the bed/previous layer.  It can't really flow backwards because of the solidifying filament already laid down in that direction.  The plastic can and will flow in the direction of travel, and it will flow to the sides.

I agree with you, in a properly tuned 3D printer the sideways flow will be minimized - but it will still be there.  That's why I suggested decreasing the layer height.  Even decreasing the layer thickness will not eliminate the layer lines, it just makes them harder to see/feel.  If you want a glass smooth sidewall with an FDM printer, some type of smoothing will be required.

Per - I think "Ironing" in the video, and the "planing" I was talking about are doing the same thing.  It's the additive machining equivalent of making a spring cut in subtractive machining.  In FDM 3D printing it's only possible on surfaces that are parallel to the build plate.  Due to the fact that it doubles your print time for that layer, it's usually limited to the top layer only.  Thanks to your video link I know that Prusa's slicer allows it too.

Don