High Pressure Steam Table Engine

[Admiral_dk]

That was a Cheeky way of 'making them long enough' .... I would have worried that I also had 'glued the gauge' together with the bushings ....

Great to see progress again Jo 

Per

[Jo]

Thank you Per 

To finish off for today I did a bit more boring:



As I got close it was not good enough to measure with a Vernier so out came the telescoping gauges and the micrometre:



And finally the plug gauge fits



Having checked the fit of the bearings both in the stands and around the crankshaft it can go together:



The gap on the base is not wide enough for the bearing stand 

Enough for today, other things are calling me  How did I ever get enough time to go to work 

Jo

[bent]

Thanks for the lessons in fabricating split bearings...I'd not seen that before. 

[Roger B]

So many little unique features     

[Michael S.]

now I see my mistake.
The upper part of the bearing has so much oversize that the cast attachment for the oil cup still comes out.
A nice job.

Michael

[Jo]

Thanks Guys 

The crank comes as a casting:



The first thing is to mount it up in a three jaw and get it mounted parallel - remembering that the circular bosses are actually tapered so we need to check against something parallel:



Then we can face the central boss:



And as expected the little dimple in the centre of the boss was not central  We need to drill deep to make sure our subsequent drilling follows the centre and not that dimple:



Having drilled and reamed it to size it can now be mounted on the hole on an expanding mandrel and the bottom faces both machined flat:



Now we can take the mounting mandrel and casting over to the milling machine, having clamped it square, find the centre of the hole with an edge finder:



Then use a pointer to move up to the correct throw distance then tap the casting to centre it on the little end:



Now it can be drilled and reamed:



We have the holes:



Now we can take the two bosses to distance:



You can see the hole drilled from the rear came out in the centre of the big end boss from this shot while the crank was rotating on the mandrel:



Mounted onto the crankshaft we find:



It hits the side of the hole in the bottom casting 

Jo

[Charles Lamont]

Jo - I think you will find it goes the other way round.

[Jasonb]

Indeed as the conrod will otherwise hit the crankshaft end as it is in the photo

[crueby]

[Admiral_dk]

Nice and very instructional post as usual Jo 

And the little 180 wrong placement is another thing most off us can relate to (one way or another) 

Per

[Jo]

Oh good someone is actually watching the build 


Jo

[Jasonb]

It will be interesting to see where the crank pin falls when it is the right way round, looking at the drawings even if fitted as in your photo it should have had 3/32" clearance.

Though the way the ctr line of the pedestal is dimensioned off the side of the cutout is not a good way to do it. Would have been better dimensioned from the engine ctr line or at least how far offset from the column ctrs

[steam guy willy]

Hi "JO" , just catching up with this build ....looking good and some of those castings look really lovely and well detailed . An interesting engine and will be interesting to seeing it in motion...
"W"

[Dave Otto]

Good to see progress Jo!


Dave

[Jo]

Having had a joyful holiday from the workshop it is time to make some swarf again  :

The flywheel was turned on Big C by first holding it on the outside of the jaws of the chuck:



Not forgetting to turn the back surface:



Before using coordinated turning to shape the curved outside surface and boring the centre so everything runs true 

To enable me to trim up the inside edge of the flywheel I chose to mount it on a face plate:



Flywheel in place:



And then it was time to take it all apart again:



So I could start looking at the yoke:



And yes another wrong measurement  the space between the two outside holes needs to be the same as the two slots in the engines table.

To start this piece I have drilled the three holes into the piece of steel I intend on using to make this part:



I will then find a piece of scrapbinium and use these holes to secure the yoke to the scrapbinium jig while I machining it 

Jo