The other end cylinder cover was faced and turned to diameter and the spigot formed to fit the cylinder before transfering to the mill where the face mill was used to bring the block for the valve rod bracket down to final height.
Then a 6mm cutter with 1mm convex corner radius was used to both size the block and face the rest of the cover down to 3/32" thickness leaving a nice internal fillet.
Finally the six stud holes were drilled 2.5mm and the two that secure the pivot tapped M2.5
The drawings call for the trunions to be fabricated from a flat piece of brass and some stainless rod. I started out with two pieces of 8mm dia 303 stainless and reduced a suitable length down to 7mm and added a deep ctr to the ends and part drilled 1/8" dia. Two oversize rectangles of 1/4" thick brass were drilled 7mm and then silver soldered to the stainless rods. Once cool They were held by the remaining 8mm dia so that the face of the brass could be turned true to the shaft and a light skim taken off the 7mm dia just to clean it up.
After sawing off from the 8mm bar the inner faces were machined along with the spigot to locate into the holes in the side of the cylinder
Here I have used the cylinder to gauge a firm fit of the two parts as I don't want them to loose there positions when taken apart after the final insitue machining.
After this the rectangle was milled to the final overall size and the mounting holes drilled
The cylinder and it's trunions were then assembled with temporary cap head screws so that the trunion shafts could be turned to final 1/4 "diameter between ctrs. I almost came a cropper here as it was difficult to get any turning tools in without either hitting teh tailstock ctr or catching the scre wheads, In the end I manage dwith a home made 6mm dia dead ctr held in an ER16 Collet chuck to support the work and a boring bar and bit to do the actual turning.