I did not take many photos of this build but as there has been some interest shown by Pm and on other forums I'll add a bit of commentary to what images I do have.
Starting with the base a piece of 5mm plate was milled to the overall size and then the datum located following which the various 3mm holes were drilled.
Followed by milling out some of the unwanted material firstly by doing a few passes 0.2mm inside the line and then a full depth pass to remove the last 0.2mm of material. After this the holes for the bearing blocks and columns were countersunk on the underside.
Two pieces of 6mm thick material were squared up and then drilled & tapped M3, the spiral flute tap makes tapping a quick and easy process a syou don't need to keep backing the tap off to break the chips - just let them curl out the top.
It would be possible to just use a couple of CSK screws to hold the bearing blocks on or add a bit of JBWeld to get a fillet for that cast look but I opted to silver solder. Once out of the pickle the bearing holes were line bored , well actually drilled and reamed with an 8mm machine reamer.
I had intended to file the curved top to the bearing caps using a couple of buttons but realised I could do it on the CNC and at just over 60seconds each quicker than I could turn up the buttons. I left the oil holes until the end once the bearings had been Loctited into place drilling both at the same time.
Next up were the columns, after facing four pieces of 8mm stock to the same lengths one end of each was reduced to 7mm dia, drilled and tapped M3 and then a ctr hole drilled for later tailstock support.
The other end was reduced to 6mm and a 3mm spigot formed and threaded M3 then the end of the exposed thread rounded with a file.
It was then just a case of holding by the 3mm section, adding tailstock support and then setting over the topslide to turn the taper. A 2mm dia grooving insert left a nice 1mm radius fillet at each end of the taper to blend into the flanges.
The crank was just a piece of 25mm bar faced off and reamed 6mm then sawn off a bit over length. This was loctited to some 6mm PGMS and once set turned down to the finished 6mm thickness before transferring to the mill for tapping the M4 hole at a throw of 7.5mm. The pin was a simple turning job followed by cutting the saw slot with a slitting saw.