Author Topic: S/N 10 Shay  (Read 9848 times)

Offline Dan Rowe

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Re: S/N 10 Shay
« Reply #60 on: December 28, 2021, 12:19:09 AM »
Bob finished the log bunk. I am glad he cut the angle boards because it was not easy in 3D cad but my fingers were not in danger.



The forward two angle brackets are missing and I will send them to Bob in the next batch of parts.



I cut the stock bronze bushings down from 1/4" to 7/32" so the sides of the pedestals had a little more thickness. The 1/8" hole in the bushing was just right for a 6-40 form tap so that gave me a method to mount the bushing in the lathe to trim it and threads for the end cap.

Here is the first one. I did not take any photos of the process but I have 3 more to do a photo shoot.



Cheers Bob and Dan

ShaylocoDan

Online crueby

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Re: S/N 10 Shay
« Reply #61 on: December 28, 2021, 12:54:26 AM »
Wonderful.    :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:

Offline Dan Rowe

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Re: S/N 10 Shay
« Reply #62 on: December 28, 2021, 10:50:47 PM »
Thanks Chris.... my speed is nowhere near what you get done in a day, I would need better shop elves. They keep waving the union contract at me.


Here is a nifty laser center finder. The dot looks smaller in person and it is much better than using a center point as there are no shadows to make it hard on old eyes with glasses and a visor to see. I used some square stock on the sides so the chuck-jaw pressure did not crush the thin section.



The next step was a spot drill to center, than progressive drills to 5mm which is as large as my chuck goes. The final step was the micro boring bar. Nothing like doing a small hole with an intermittent cut on a silver soldered piece....blind.



I used a 6-40 form tap for a mandril to trim the bronze bushing.



The final lathe step is to cut the bushing to length. My go to cut off tool is the inverted tool on the lever slide.



Cheers Bob and Dan
ShaylocoDan

Offline Admiral_dk

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Re: S/N 10 Shay
« Reply #63 on: December 29, 2021, 11:53:01 AM »
No matter the speed - you are both doing well with this model  :ThumbsUp:

 :popcorn:   :cheers:

Per

Offline Dan Rowe

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Re: S/N 10 Shay
« Reply #64 on: December 30, 2021, 10:39:37 PM »
Thanks, Per slow but steady is my usual pace these days.

I finished the pedestal bearing caps today. They started as a hinge pin in my steel bits box. The pin was turned to diameter, then 1/16" on the end was turned to .138" for a 6-40 thread. This left a little less than 2 threads after the thread relief was cut on the end. I drilled the threaded end 1.3mm to clear the M1.2 adjusting bolt. Having a micrometer stop came in handy to drill this hole .050" deep.

The ends were cut off and two more pieces were made. I used the cutoff threaded piece to mount the end caps to drill and tap the hole and make the bolt boss.



I do not have any M1.2 hex bolts so I used a flat head Philips head screw till the hex bolts arrive.

A brass pad will be between the adjuster bolt and the end of the axle to take up the gear thrust...just like the real one.

I was using an abrasive cutoff saw to trim the pieces from the hinge pin and I did not want it to drop off and get lost so I used a bushing on the bench that had been taped 6-40 to have a handle.

Well, the bushing got hot no surprise there but it started leaking oil. I did not know that they were Oilite bushings, I bought them surplus years ago and have used them on several projects. It is a good thing that I have always pressed them in a hole as silver solder is out of the question.

Cheers Bob and Dan
ShaylocoDan

Offline Dan Rowe

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Re: S/N 10 Shay
« Reply #65 on: January 13, 2022, 10:19:43 PM »
A bit more progress on this build, Bob remade the roof with oak to match the rest of the wood frame and the deck planking is going down.





I made a bending and drilling fixture for the truck here is the left side first bend.



I made a special stud to mount the pedestals with one end 6-40 to attach to the bearing and the other end 5-40 to bolt it to the fixture.

Here is the second bend of the arch bar.



Here are all the bars ready for drilling.



Here is a comparison of a 1907 truck in 7/8" scale and an 1880 truck in 1:20 scale. Now I remember why I like 7/8" scale....the parts are bigger and not so many tiny bolts.



Cheers Bob and Dan

« Last Edit: January 13, 2022, 10:24:00 PM by Dan Rowe »
ShaylocoDan

Offline Roger B

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Re: S/N 10 Shay
« Reply #66 on: January 22, 2022, 08:13:03 AM »
I do enjoy all the fine details, including the background  :)  :)   :ThumbsUp:  :wine1: The development of the later truck design is quite interesting as, I guess, many things had been learnt about how to keep things working in very harsh conditions.
Best regards

Roger

Offline Dan Rowe

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Re: S/N 10 Shay
« Reply #67 on: January 30, 2022, 01:50:02 AM »
Roger one of the reasons I picked this Shay to build was that I wanted to make a first generation truck. I started with the second generation of this truck which was used on S/N 181. The only real difference on the left side is the arch bars are offset on the second generation so the straight section looks more like a chair. There are not many photos that show these details because most Shay photos show the right side.

Bob has finished the frame except for the fireman's pit which is waiting until I work out the engine mount and the reverse gear. Then I will know where I can locate the pit irons. Here is the frame to date with a load of split cherry in the bunker.



I got hung up on how to machine the cast gears. I only have 4 and I have to get them true. I tried an expanding mandril for the center with no luck the runout was just too much. I spotted this article on the subject and used some of the concepts to make a dedicated bevel gear chuck.

http://precisionlocomotivecastings.com/Notes/Machining%20the%20Willamette%20Bull%20Gear.html

I started with a chunk of 1-3/8" OD stress-proof steel about 2" long. I cut one end down to have a 1/2" chucking shank so I can use it with a 1/2" collet in the lathe.

To make the jaws or clamps I cut off a 1/2" long disk and bored it to 1-1/16".



I used a small sine bar to set the slide to the face angle of the gear. I tried to set it with a dial indicator but i was chasing the error. The photo shows the chuck body with a 10-32 screw sticking out of the center and the blank for the jaws.



It was much simpler to use a parallel to set the slide from the sine bar. I checked it with the indicator and it was spot on.



Here is the gear face angle being cut on the chuck body. It was only a two axis slide so I advanced the cut by unbolting the boring bar and moving it in a small amount.



I set up the lathe as a drill press and the headstock has a stop pin that four lock locations so perfect for a four-bolt flange. The chuck and jaws were drilled for a 2mm bolt.



Here is the gear chuck finished and ready to machine the back of the gear and drill the holes for the mounting bolts.



Cheers Bob and Dan

 
ShaylocoDan

Offline PJPickard

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Re: S/N 10 Shay
« Reply #68 on: January 30, 2022, 12:32:49 PM »
Some neat setups and great work there! Oddly I correspond with the the owner of the Precision Loco Castings site and just got an email from him yesterday.
Is that auxiliary spindle a Levin product as well?

Offline cnr6400

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Re: S/N 10 Shay
« Reply #69 on: January 30, 2022, 01:14:46 PM »
That's some great toolmaking to hold the gears! Frame and bunker look great too. :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:

Offline Dan Rowe

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Re: S/N 10 Shay
« Reply #70 on: January 30, 2022, 03:46:17 PM »
Thanks, guys, the problem of how to machine a cast bull gear has been on my plate for a while now. Here is my collection of 7/8" gears compared to the smaller 16 mill version of the same gear. I will be building a bigger version of the gear chuck in the near future.



Paul, yes the spindle and mount are Levin. They call it a grinder attachment. It is a 8mm WW collet spindle that Levin uses as a milling attachment on a vertical slide and the sensitive drill on a tailstock slide.

Cheers Dan
ShaylocoDan

Offline Dan Rowe

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Re: S/N 10 Shay
« Reply #71 on: February 01, 2022, 12:40:51 AM »
The outer diameter of the wheel hub was nearly the same size as the gear center so I checked my 6-jaw chuck to see if it would work. It is a mix of inside and outside jaws which is a combination that is most likely very handy for watch cases but usually, I have to use a different chuck because the jaws just do not fit.....Well what a pleasant surprise the wheels held firmly by the flange and I could even chuck them the other way by the wheel tread.





Here is the gear faced and bored to fit the hub to register the gear center.



Cheers Bob and Dan
ShaylocoDan

Offline Dan Rowe

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Re: S/N 10 Shay
« Reply #72 on: February 04, 2022, 12:59:38 AM »
The next gear did not want to run as true and I had a plan to correct that. I machined the back flat and bored the hole to about halfway. I tapped a 1/2" ball 10-32 and used it to get the gear running true. Now I could use a file to remove a casting blob on the back side of the flange. I went ahead and did the same steps to the other three gears.



I used the machined gear to check the axle length and the axle extended beyond the gear cone. The wheel fit section of the axle was about 2mm longer than it needed to be so I cut it down and shortened the axle. The first axle is before machining, the middle axle is the modified version and the right axle has the gear fitted.



Cheers Bob and Dan
ShaylocoDan

Online crueby

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Re: S/N 10 Shay
« Reply #73 on: February 04, 2022, 02:55:42 AM »
Great save, clever!
 :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:

Offline Admiral_dk

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Re: S/N 10 Shay
« Reply #74 on: February 04, 2022, 11:19:05 AM »
Great sequence, description and save  :ThumbsUp:

The gears appear somewhat rough in the pictures - is that only a sideeffect of the camera or do they need extra work to clean up the teeth profiles ?

Best wishes

Per