IHC Titan 50 HP, 2 cylinder Doug Kelley, European version

[Craig DeShong]

Achim

Yes, dealing with a mis aligned casting (mis-align of the cope and drag) is difficult.  It’s a choice of compromises, selecting the lesser of all the evils. 

I like working cast iron, if it weren’t for all the iron dust that coats everything and requires a thorough cleaning of the tools when done, it might be my favorite material to work.

I’ve been getting my flywheels from Martin Models of Oregon, USA.  His has a great selection, quality is excellent, alignment is good, and he anneals everything to avoid hard spots.  I don’t know if he ships internationally or not… but I’ll bet he does.

[fumopuc]

Hi Craig,
thanks for popping in.
Doug has made a recommendation about a Martin Model 6" fly wheel casting in his BOM also, with part number.
But to be honest, is very expensive to buy the stuff here from Germany.
The price for the casting itself is a one-third more than my casting, considered for the two castings something to be compensated by the better quality.
But the freight cost and customs fees then could be more as the amount for the goods on top again.
So my decision was then not to do the oversea purchase.
Disadvantage, I have to live with the wobble.

[Roger B]

However when the engine is finished you will probably be the only person to notice the wobble      Everyone else will be enjoying all the other fine details.

[fumopuc]

However when the engine is finished you will probably be the only person to notice the wobble  Everyone else will be enjoying all the other fine details.

Roger, I am afraid you are 100% right.




With the magnet in the fly wheel and the sensor in position it should be the right moment to check the functionality now.
For that the CDI system should get its new home first.
It will be fitted to the aluminium base plate of the engine.
Unfortunately there is the temporary wooden base currently.
I have made the final lay out of the CDI system with a new printed battery box.
Then a whole was cut into the wooden plate and with the help of some strips, we have got the necessary clearance height again.
The little tester connected and we could start.
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_PrCLB2aTY" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_PrCLB2aTY</a>
So far everything seems to be fine.

[fumopuc]

Flywheels done, ignition seems to be fine, time to replace the shaft, 10 mm drill rod between the flywheels, against the real crankshaft.
The webs are drilled together in one set up, so I tried to archived the most accuracy with the center hole distance in all parts.
To keep them in position during the silver brazing process a fixture was made.

[fumopuc]

Hi everybody, next job the crankshaft brazing.
The set up and some white out.
The brazing God was not with me that specific day.
The solder did nor want to flow as usual.
So in my panic I have given more and more heat, which ends in totally burned flux all over.
The silver solder was sticking mostly in big blobs at the part.
Something was totally wrong here and I had to find out.
First idea was, that maybe the flux was not good anymore, but I have learned quickly that the age of 5 to 10 years should be no real problem there.
Than I remembered that the gap maybe was a bit to small. The solder manufacturer does recommend 0,05 to 0,1 mm.
In this case I have been sure it was less. I have made it with the intention to get a very precise cam shaft.
Now I do have a very precise piece of scrape.
Also my usual procedure with some punch marks in gap was not used here.
So back to the roots was the decision and a brazing experiment was scheduled first, before I will start to make new parts for the crank shaft.

[propforward]

That’s bad luck Achim, but your back to basics approach will recover the situation. I assume the white out is being used as a brazing mask? I did not know that trick, but now you show it it reminds me of using boron nitride paint inside vacuum chambers as a similar kind of mask. Makes me wonder what is in white out.

[Admiral_dk]

Oh man - I do understand your fustrations with that result 

Besides flux, I can only think of two possible reasons - space for the solder as you mention and clean- / dirty- ness of the surfaces ....

Best wishes for a satisfactory solution

Per

[crueby]

Which flux are you using? Some burn off faster than others, being used up before the part gets up to temperature. I've used both the Tenacity 5 and Harris Black fluxes with great results. Some other fluxes have a much shorter life at temperature, and require a quicker heating with a larger torch. I've had the same flux for years, never had it go bad. Also, which grade of silver solder? The 'hard' grades require higher temperature and longer heating. If the torch tip used is too small it wont heat the metal quickly enough. Lots of variables. When you applied the White Out, any chance that it wicked into the joints? If so, that would be a problem, since you want the solder in there. From the looks of the parts, I'd guess either the flux burned off before the part got to temperature, or the solder used wanted a higher heat than the flux could last for. A good long soak in the pickle solution should get the parts clean again before another attempt, and your plan to do a test part first is a good one. I like to use the wire type solder, and lay it in the flux on the joint seam (diluting the flux applied to the joint ahead of the heating so some of the flux gets carried into the joint).

Chris

[RReid]

Hi Achim. I wonder if you might be trying to do too many of the joints at one heating? In my experience that leads to a poor result, as moving the central area of the flame from one zone to another even briefly seems to introduce contaminants from the "fringes" or outer areas of the flame.

[Kim]

Bummer!  I hate it when that happens   And I've certainly had it happen to me!

You should definitely clean up the parts and try again before you remake the whole crankshaft.  It's certainly worth a try. I've had that work successfully for me many times.  The only times I've had to start over is when I got so heavy-handed with the heat that I melted my part (yes, that has happened :embarrassed:)

Kim

[RReid]

You should definitely clean up the parts and try again before you remake the whole crankshaft.

I was about to add a similar comment, but Kim beat me to it!

[crueby]

As the metal heats up you will see the flux first bubble as the water boils off, then go hard, then melt and turn clear, shortly after that the solder should melt and flow. If it starts browning again, the flux is spent, and you may need a torch with more power. Key is to heat both pieces evenly, from the back so the flame doesn't directly melt the solder but the metal does. If one part is thicker or larger, you need to put more heat there early so both parts get hot together.

[fumopuc]

Gentleman thanks for all your thoughts and suggestions.
It is very much appreciated.
As already mentioned, time for an experiment.
A dummy web and a dummy shaft was prepared.
Both the same material as used for the crankshaft.
Same flux as used before, but a bigger gap and the masking with the same white out as used for the crankshaft so far.
As in picture 23 hopefully visible, some punch marks in the hole to keep the shaft hopefully centered.
I used my discounter USB microscope for the following pictures.
First the side without the masking and than the side with the masking.
All details are in the way as it should be.
The solder has entered the gap complete until the other side, where it get blocked  by the white out.
To be continued.

[fumopuc]

To be sure, the piece was cut to see the internal situation better.
The right side seems to be a bit less filled with solder, but the more detailed view does show some solder in the very small gap also.
For me the confirmation now, material, flux, solder and white out does do it with each other, if its proper matched.