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Nice Casting Is it going to be a water cooled block? Have you already sketched out the design or are you scaling up/modifying something else to provide a new engine design? Jo
Hi Shiroth.It's difficult to tell from your photos but are you using the Cope ( top box half ) to cast in?If you were to use the Drag ( bottom box half ) the sump areas would be facing upwards and any gasses generated could escape via the split line. Those sumps could also be " self codding " ( using the pattern inside shape ) to create the semicircular shape rather than an additional core. Using this method can allow the use of a vent wire, from the Cope top, after Strickling to help release gasses.The Black coloured tinge? Are you using " oil " bonded sand?Kind regards, Graham.
I've been founding for over 40 years now, in the beginning virtually every casting was a " waster " in foundry parlance.Your casting effectively becomes a roof, trapping the fume from the core. By using the " Drag " for your casting you can ensure a greater " head " of metal is available to reduce the risk of " shrink " and porosity.Please don't hesitate to ask questions, there's quite a few members here that already have the " T " shirt.Kind regards, Graham.
Looks like an interesting project. It's a good sized I4. I did build a single 1.125 X 1.1 But haven't done a multi cylinder yet. I don't have the equipment to do casting but I find someone else doing it interesting.Art
The necessary valve lift depends on the valve diameter. 1/4 the diameter is enough. The journal diameter depends to an extent on how hard you are going to work the engine. For a 'display' engine 0.5" will be fine. If it is to be used for competition a bit bigger might be good.
Finally got around to ordering some material! After a fair bit of scouring around hunting metal shops with no success, I finally ended up on mcmaster.comThough it is a US shop, the inventory is nuts! and still cheaper then sourcing some of the materials in Canada I have come across.So with any luck, I should be able to get my order soon.**********************EDIT.. They canceled my order on me... Not accepting orders unless it is for a business or school.
We do like pictures - and it looks mighty fine indeed. This will be very fun to follow along.
Nice progress Funny to see the 'lines from the 3D printer' on the cylinders - will that be painted or have another kind of finish later ?Per
Following along, quite a substantial engine, nice proportions.
I seem to remember that Mike did what you should consider a few months back on the Mercedes build - with great result .... So take a look and see if it inspires you
Don't ask me (I'm sticking to single cylinders for now), but I do agree with the Admiral that Mike's line boring jig setup looked pretty cool.
How tight a fit did you have you could have relieved in the centre would make it easer to get in with full size engines we always finished machined after fitting.John
Just take it slowly You are not building a racing engine, Loctite or similar will be fine to hold the sleeves without distortion. I tend to make my valves from stainless steel screws/bolts. this reduces the amount of machining.
Thinking of making the valves in 2 pieces. wasn't sure if anyone has done it on here or not, but I figured it might be easier to work with.