Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build

[crueby]

Hi MJM,  the intakes down each side are 36" diameter, where they join at the base of the Y they are 48". Same on the output pipes. The angle on the camera makes them look the same but they are larger at the ends of the Y's. Not quite double the capacity between large and small pipes.

[kvom]

On the intake valves, did you print the threaded rod, or just add it?  If printed it's pretty interesting to get that detail.

[crueby]

On the intake valves, did you print the threaded rod, or just add it?  If printed it's pretty interesting to get that detail.

No, that's lengths of some 4-40 threaded rod. I didn't think threads that small would come out well. The gears were printed, look good but wouldn't wear well!

[steam guy willy]

Hi Chris , this is looking absolutely superb and I am lost for words ....great craftsmanship and skill with all these parts ...I am quite envious ...

Willy

[tvoght]

Chris, As far as I can tell, your techniques for combining metalworking and 3d printing to make detailed functioning scale models are... Would ground-breaking be too strong a term? I'm increasingly fascinated with what you're doing here.   --Tim

[crueby]

Thanks Tim/Willy!  Much appreciated!

Just made and printed the drawing sheets for the two platforms at the pump level, also counted up the total number of railing posts that I need for all four of the platform levels on the model. Only 156 of them.....      I better get in another busload of shop elves from Rent-An-Elf for the week!

[crueby]

As previously discussed, since I am waiting for some bar stock for the pump plunger end plates, I am skipping on to make the elf-barrow full of railing posts that will be needed for the railings on all the platforms up the engine. The drilling jig for the top posts was made from a scrap bit of steel block, first drilling a 1/8" hole in the end to take the bar stock used to make the railing top fittings:

With the mill table in/out axis locked, the block was then turned on its side and a 1/16" hole drilled through the block, positioned so that it would leave enough of the bar stock below the hole to form the ball in the end and leave a shoulder to go over the vertical post of the railing. This hole goes all the way through the block, so any chips can fall through while drilling the bars. After drilling this hole, I ran a 1/8" hand reamer in the other hole to clean up the burs this drill left on the inside.


Then cut some 1/8" brass roundbar into short lengths to help speed up the process - with a handfull of short lengths, I can do each step on both ends of all the bars, then move to the other machine for the next step, saving some back and forth'ing. The ends of each bar are pushed into the hole in the block all the way, and the drill run through it. The steel block acts as a drill guide, so no need for a spot drill or milling a flat on the side of the bar. This step goes very quick.

Result is a nicely centered hole in each end of the bar. The extra stock between the hole and the end of the bar will become the bottom of the ball and the shoulder below it.


Test fit of the 1/16 steel rod to be used as the railing:

Then over to the lathe to drill a shallow hole in each end, and part it off:

Here is the first one, loctited to the end of a 1" length of the 1/16th steel rod, which will be the vertical rail post. I'll need to cut a cup full of 1" lengths for this.

Stopping there for now to let the loctite cure, and test to see if that holds well enough to shape the brass on the lathe - should be, but I dont want to make dozens then find out otherwise. So, some hard work for the late afternoon, go out on the porch with the elves and read in the rocking chair!

[crueby]

Methinks this'll work!  Let the loctite cure up for a while, quick spin on the lathe to take the lower end down with parting tool and round it with a file.


Could be a good place to grind up a forming tool to get them all the same.

[Dave Otto]

Hi Chris
Why not make a form tool from a piece of 01 flat stock? in the end it would be faster and you would get more consistent results.

Dave

[crueby]

Hi Chris
Why not make a form tool from a piece of 01 flat stock? in the end it would be faster and you would get more consistent results.

Dave

May well do that, given the number I need to make. I have several hss tool blanks, could grind one to suit.   

[Don1966]

I guess I m just going to have to get me some of those cookies you get giving those elves. The way you are turning out parts is making me dizzy and I need some energy…and did I say ………I………..likeeeeee…… ?


 
Don

[cnr6400]

 

With that extra busload of elves, you may need a bigger cookie oven, or set up bulk ordering of cookies from store or bakery!! Not a bad problem to have. 

[crueby]

Too bad none of my elves are named Keebler. Or Amos. Or Crocker...  They did chip in (pun) and buy me a stand mixer so I can make them more cookies...

[ddmckee54]

They PROBABLY just want to "borrow" the mixer to mix the next batch of mash for their still.  I'm told it has a distinctive aroma so you'll know when they use it.

Don

[crueby]

They PROBABLY just want to "borrow" the mixer to mix the next batch of mash for their still.  I'm told it has a distinctive aroma so you'll know when they use it.

Don

Just great. Who told the elves about the show Moonshiners? Thanks a LOT!