Author Topic: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build  (Read 154143 times)

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #270 on: April 13, 2021, 08:29:20 PM »
:ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:

Good luck with making the 9,368 studs!   :Lol: :cheers:
I shipped the materials to your shop elves with instructions that they should lock you in the closet till you finish making them. I included ten boxes of cookies as bribes for them. Have fun!!
 :ROFL: :lolb: :LittleDevil:
Actually have made the studs needed for the lower ends this afternoon - 48 for the pad corners, 12 for the longer tubes, plus another dozen to get started on the upper ends. Cut them on my little hobby size chop saw with an abrasive wheel, cleaned up the ends on the belt sander, and loctited nuts near one end of each, which are curing now. I'd do more, but my fingers said thats enough and went for a snack!

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #271 on: April 13, 2021, 08:32:04 PM »
Thanks Chris & Derek, for answering my question.

And nice RT work on those engine bed plates.  The curviness adds something to the otherwise linear parts :)   :popcorn: :popcorn:

Kim
The curves are more functional than decorative, I think - they had to bow out to give room for the big end of the con-rod to come around, and that way they didn't have to make the frames farther apart. No where near as great looking as the big Victorian pumping engines with all the gingerbread and cornice moldings (probably a good thing for me! )

Offline cnr6400

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #272 on: April 14, 2021, 12:31:17 AM »

"I shipped the materials to your shop elves with instructions that they should lock you in the closet till you finish making them. I included ten boxes of cookies as bribes for them. Have fun!!
 :ROFL: :lolb: :LittleDevil:
Actually have made the studs needed for the lower ends this afternoon - 48 for the pad corners, 12 for the longer tubes, plus another dozen to get started on the upper ends. Cut them on my little hobby size chop saw with an abrasive wheel, cleaned up the ends on the belt sander, and loctited nuts near one end of each, which are curing now. I'd do more, but my fingers said thats enough and went for a snack!"

My wife just let me out of the closet. Shop elves here had a field day but no work done on your 9,368 studs I'm afraid. The shop elves were busy making excuses to my wife for where all the muffled shouts were coming from.  :Lol:
"I've cut that stock three times, and it's still too short!"

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #273 on: April 14, 2021, 03:15:27 PM »
Well, since CNR's elves went and partied in the hot tub rather than make the studs for me, I've been getting more batches made.

Here is a shot of the difference - on the left the frame rail is held on with hex head screws (not bad) where the right has the studs (better). Also, you can see the larger studs holding the assembly to the floor using the tubes in the frame rails.

The 3D printer has been chugging away in the other room too, have the lower pipe sections as well as the lower valve housings all printed and ready for sanding/painting. Now have started in on the upper pipes and the force chambers, which sit above the valve housings - the force chambers were kept partly full of air to act as a cushion against water hammering and even out the pressures that vary during the pump strokes. The three pumps were simple rams, single acting, 120 degrees apart on the crankshaft, so the pressures would oscillate a bit during each revolution.

The pipe at the bottom is the water intake - just above that was a large set of check valves, beyond which the water would flow through the oblong pipe to the center pump ram chamber. Above the oblong pipe was another platform full of check valves leading to the force chamber above, and ultimately to the output pipe on the outside of the force chamber, visible in this photo:

The hole at the top of the force chamber will take a pipe that was used to pump air in/out to adjust the water level in the top chamber. The smaller round covered ports were manholes to allow access to the check valves. Hundreds and hundreds of check valves!

Offline ddmckee54

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #274 on: April 14, 2021, 03:57:25 PM »
Chris:

What were your print settings when you printed those parts, filament type, layer height, infill, etc... enquiring 3D printers want to know.

Don

Offline Kim

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #275 on: April 14, 2021, 04:37:02 PM »
That's a lot of studs, Chris!

Did they have studs in the floor to connect the frames to?  In the picture in Reply #260, it looks like two hex-head bolts there.  It could be studs though.  Hard to tell. You have access to higher-res pictures though...

The printed pipes sure look good!   :popcorn:

Kim

Offline joe d

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #276 on: April 14, 2021, 05:40:11 PM »
This is looking really good, Chris!  Seeing your pipe-work really brings home the value of the printer, fabricating all that would be a nightmare.

Joe

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #277 on: April 14, 2021, 06:55:52 PM »
Chris:

What were your print settings when you printed those parts, filament type, layer height, infill, etc... enquiring 3D printers want to know.

Don
Hi Don,  will look up the settings later, what I recall is these are .15mm and .20mm layers depending on the part, PLA, .4mm nozzle.

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #278 on: April 14, 2021, 06:59:54 PM »
That's a lot of studs, Chris!

Did they have studs in the floor to connect the frames to?  In the picture in Reply #260, it looks like two hex-head bolts there.  It could be studs though.  Hard to tell. You have access to higher-res pictures though...

The printed pipes sure look good!   :popcorn:

Kim
They are studs, not much protuding. The printed parts are coming out well, the shallow curves need some smoothing. After experiments settled on fine paper, slowest speed, with the little detail sander, any faster it heats up too much. Using a wet dry paper, dipping the part in water frequently. Let dry, and it paints nicely.

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #279 on: April 14, 2021, 07:01:59 PM »
This is looking really good, Chris!  Seeing your pipe-work really brings home the value of the printer, fabricating all that would be a nightmare.

Joe
Some complex shapes, don't know how I would do them, and would waste tons of metal. The pump core section, which will be working, will be metal. Should be a great tool for the rc boats too!

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #280 on: April 14, 2021, 07:32:37 PM »
Chris:

What were your print settings when you printed those parts, filament type, layer height, infill, etc... enquiring 3D printers want to know.

Don
Hi Don,  will look up the settings later, what I recall is these are .15mm and .20mm layers depending on the part, PLA, .4mm nozzle.
Used 15% infill, though on these parts there is not much infill. Gyroid infill pattern. Monotonic top/bottom, 5 layers.

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #281 on: April 14, 2021, 07:38:58 PM »
That's a lot of studs, Chris!

Did they have studs in the floor to connect the frames to?  In the picture in Reply #260, it looks like two hex-head bolts there.  It could be studs though.  Hard to tell. You have access to higher-res pictures though...

The printed pipes sure look good!   :popcorn:

Kim
They are studs, not much protuding. The printed parts are coming out well, the shallow curves need some smoothing. After experiments settled on fine paper, slowest speed, with the little detail sander, any faster it heats up too much. Using a wet dry paper, dipping the part in water frequently. Let dry, and it paints nicely.
Looking through the high res pictures more, the lowest level uses studs, the upper levels are hex head bolts. The lower level studs have little sticking through, and most have enough dust/dirt on top that its hard to tell.

Offline Kim

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #282 on: April 14, 2021, 09:04:34 PM »
That's a lot of studs, Chris!

Did they have studs in the floor to connect the frames to?  In the picture in Reply #260, it looks like two hex-head bolts there.  It could be studs though.  Hard to tell. You have access to higher-res pictures though...

The printed pipes sure look good!   :popcorn:

Kim
They are studs, not much protuding. The printed parts are coming out well, the shallow curves need some smoothing. After experiments settled on fine paper, slowest speed, with the little detail sander, any faster it heats up too much. Using a wet dry paper, dipping the part in water frequently. Let dry, and it paints nicely.
Looking through the high res pictures more, the lowest level uses studs, the upper levels are hex head bolts. The lower level studs have little sticking through, and most have enough dust/dirt on top that its hard to tell.


Do they have 1 & 1/2 threads protruding through the nut? :)  Isn't that the standard I've heard people talk about?    :Lol:

Thanks for checking Chris!
Kim

Offline ddmckee54

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #283 on: April 14, 2021, 09:05:43 PM »
Chris:

You've probably already said, but what slicer do you use?

A couple of questions about the pumping section:

You say the pump core section will be working.  Do you mean the pump parts will be in the correct location and connected to the engine, but not truely functional - or do you intend to be able to pump something with it?

If you're going to pump something with it, do you intend to hide the inlet and discharge piping inside the printed piping, or actually use the printed piping as inlet and discharge?

Don

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #284 on: April 14, 2021, 10:12:21 PM »
That's a lot of studs, Chris!

Did they have studs in the floor to connect the frames to?  In the picture in Reply #260, it looks like two hex-head bolts there.  It could be studs though.  Hard to tell. You have access to higher-res pictures though...

The printed pipes sure look good!   :popcorn:

Kim
They are studs, not much protuding. The printed parts are coming out well, the shallow curves need some smoothing. After experiments settled on fine paper, slowest speed, with the little detail sander, any faster it heats up too much. Using a wet dry paper, dipping the part in water frequently. Let dry, and it paints nicely.
Looking through the high res pictures more, the lowest level uses studs, the upper levels are hex head bolts. The lower level studs have little sticking through, and most have enough dust/dirt on top that its hard to tell.


Do they have 1 & 1/2 threads protruding through the nut? :)  Isn't that the standard I've heard people talk about?    :Lol:

Thanks for checking Chris!
Kim
Looks to be about that in the pictures.

 

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