Author Topic: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build  (Read 8697 times)

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #225 on: April 07, 2021, 12:26:09 PM »
Wow, Chris, those pipe sections look great!

And what size are those fasteners you're using? 2-56?  or smaller?

Kim
The pipe fasteners are 2-56, with small-pattern scale nuts with 1/8" across flats and thicker than normal ones, give a good scaled look. Got them at Fastener Express, just ordered more since I am going through them quick. Also have some 1-72 and 0-80 fasteners for the smaller stuff to come later. Some of the bigger base fasteners are 4-40. The size of the fasteners was one of the things I had to juggle when deciding on the scale for the model.

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #226 on: April 07, 2021, 12:28:46 PM »
Sorry....the actual vintage of the machine eluded me......[right or wrong, were were taught that this 'Spun Cast' process was progressed in the early 1920's in England after the secrets of the process  :zap: were acquired by deception from Germany? ]

If we are talking 1911+, obviously the straight pipe spools would have been sand cast, complete with the flanges ready for cleanup machining & flange bolt patterns drilled by Horizontal Boring machines

The surface finish would again be rough.........

Centrifically cast , or as originally termed as Spun Cast  pipe spools were made in semi continuous length, however dependent on the volume/tonnage of the Melt. Their flanges were carbon arc welded to make a one piece spool

Derek
That was a time with the metal technology changing quickly, both in casting and in welding. I was surprised in that one photo that the casting part number was still visible and not covered in layers of paint - being indoors all those years really preserved things better than outside like bridge parts.
 :cheers:

Offline ddmckee54

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #227 on: April 07, 2021, 04:18:31 PM »
Chris:

Not to be a noodge or anything, but did you allow for shrinkage when you printed those parts?  If you printed them at the proper dimension, when they cool they will shrink and be undersize.  DAMHIK  You can scale the entire part oversize in your slicer to compensate for this shrinkage.

Don

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #228 on: April 07, 2021, 04:34:36 PM »
Chris:

Not to be a noodge or anything, but did you allow for shrinkage when you printed those parts?  If you printed them at the proper dimension, when they cool they will shrink and be undersize.  DAMHIK  You can scale the entire part oversize in your slicer to compensate for this shrinkage.

Don
No shrinkage so far on the parts, amount does vary with which material, infill, and layer density.  For these parts, a small amount would not matter, some it does.

Offline ddmckee54

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #229 on: April 07, 2021, 08:48:55 PM »
Yeah, as the parts get bigger shrinkage becomes more apparent.  I usually scale my prints to about 104%-105%, that usually gets me within 0.25mm of the actual dimension.  With an filament printer, I figure that's good enough for gubmint work.

Don

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #230 on: April 07, 2021, 09:57:21 PM »
Yeah, as the parts get bigger shrinkage becomes more apparent.  I usually scale my prints to about 104%-105%, that usually gets me within 0.25mm of the actual dimension.  With an filament printer, I figure that's good enough for gubmint work.

Don
What kind of filiment do you use? So far I am using the PLA that it came with, imagine it probably varies with the material.

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #231 on: April 07, 2021, 10:11:37 PM »
Not much time in the shop today, this afternoon was the nicest weather so far this year so I went out canoeing with friends, awesome day out! Eagles fishing out of the trees, Bufflehead ducks migrating through, various land critters swimming around, turtles sunbathing - everyone was out!

I did get the frames unbolted from the base and the tape removed - glad I put the tape down to keep the loctite from sticking the frames to the base, a couple of the bits of tape had spots where the loctite had dripped down inside the mortises.

Got the first pair unbolted from the top plates and started drilling for the cross pins - thats as far as I got, will drill the rest tomorrow morning, the afternoon looks like even better weather so outside I go!



Offline ddmckee54

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #232 on: April 07, 2021, 10:35:24 PM »
What kind of filiment do you use? So far I am using the PLA that it came with, imagine it probably varies with the material.

I use PLA because I can tolerate the smell, my printer is in my living room.  I used to shop around for whatever filament was the cheapest, but I found that if you want to keep getting the same color filament you need to pick a reliable company and stick with them.

I'm trying to find a close match to the Bruder red and yellow colors for a couple of RC construction equipment conversions that I've got underway.

Don

Offline Don1966

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #233 on: April 07, 2021, 10:50:26 PM »
Awwwww your doing it proud Dog. You still amaze me with your jigs and setups. It’s a joy to see them in action. Love the 3 D print outs...  :Love:



 :drinking-41:
Don

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #234 on: April 09, 2021, 09:51:24 PM »
Back on the Holly model today, got the rest of the cross-pin holes drilled through the pads and frame rails, and loctited in brass pins in all of them. After letting that set up for a little while, started in shaping the pad sides. On one side the pad goes flush with the rail, at the same angle the rail is. That part was simple, clamp the rails in the mill vise and set the end mill to the height of the rail, and a couple passes to trim them even.

The opposite side of each stays wider than the rail, but gets a slight angle along the upper 2/3rds of the side. For this, I got out the frame rail jig again, and set it at the angle in the vise. Then rain each end through to cut the sloped section. The jig has two positions for the cradles, each was used to get all the sides done.

The ends of the pads get a slightly steeper angle on them, also about 2/3rds of the height of the pad. For this, set the jig up vertical, and tipped to give the angle (in this case just 4.7 degrees).

So, once all the pad feet were shaped, it was time to fill in the 'ankles' above them. On the originals they were all cast in one piece with the rails, but for the model they are built up. Rather than put in a chunk of metal and attempt to mill the curve in, I tried using some JB Steel Stik epoxy putty. First time I've tried it - seems to work out okay. It comes as a stick with one part of the epoxy in the core, the other part wrapped around the outside. You cut off the amount you want from the end (I used a fresh exacto knife, the putty is pretty soft so it needs a sharp blade to avoid smooshing it). Then knead the parts together, and stick to the part:

I did both ends of four of the frame rails, and left them for a couple hours to harden up and see how the stuff shapes. On the package it says you have 3 to 5 minutes before it sets - in practice I got maybe a minute before it started to stiffen up and would not stick/shape well. So, learned to cut off about 1/8" at a time from the stick and do one end or so at a time.  After it cured up, I first tried a sanding drum in the rotary tool, that worked but clogged up pretty quick, though the clogged surface still cut since the steel powder in the epoxy turned it into an abrasive drum. Then tried a smaller diameter drum bur, that got into the corners better, also clogged but kept cutting. Here is what it looks like:

Working out well, I am going to epoxy up the rest of the frame ends the same way.
After the ends are all shaped, the last thing to do on the frame rails is to drill near the center of the rails for a cross tube that will support the intermediat pump catwalk. Also, need to drill for a larger tube at the base of each rail that takes a large bolt from the floor plate - this one goes through both the pad and rail, and comes out part way up the rail. The four corner bolts connect into the base plates, this fifth bolt went right down into the concrete floor to hold the base plate and the rails down. There are other bolts through the base plates into the floor too.

Offline Craig DeShong

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #235 on: April 10, 2021, 01:04:53 AM »
Epoxy makes great fillets,I’ve used it myself.

On another note.... here is another ‘Chris’ model, proceeding at ‘break-neck’ speed,”does the man ever sleep?”. :shrug:
Craig

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #236 on: April 10, 2021, 01:19:45 AM »
Epoxy makes great fillets,I’ve used it myself.

On another note.... here is another ‘Chris’ model, proceeding at ‘break-neck’ speed,”does the man ever sleep?”. :shrug:
Did plenty of sleeping in meetings before retirement!  :lolb:

Offline Steamer5

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #237 on: April 10, 2021, 01:51:16 PM »
 :popcornsmall: :popcornsmall: :popcornsmall: :drinking-41:

Looking good Chris

Cheers Kerrin
Get excited and make something!

Offline crueby

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #238 on: April 10, 2021, 02:56:56 PM »
Thanks Kerrin!

This morning got the rest of the epoxy fillets shaped, then drilled and installed the tubes in the center of the frame rails. The other day I thought these were for supporting the platforms between the pumps, but on double-checking they are not near those. They are right in the middle of the rails, and so would be lifting points for moving and installing the frame rails. A number of the other big pieces have similar holes or rings, makes sense that they would cast in ways to connect to the parts for moving them.

The tubes are a little longer than the depth of the rails, and stand proud on both sides.

So, whats left on the rails? I need to drill 1/4" holes through the bases for the floor mount bolts - these will be located using the drill jig made for the pads, and enlarged out to size. I need to work out the setup for that, not sure if there is enough height on the mill column. May do the drilling on the lathe with a vise/jig on the cross slide, or may tip the mill head 90 degrees and come in from the side.Also, there need to be holes drilled/tapped on the top pads to connect the brackets which hold up the catwalk around the engine beds on top of these frame rails.

Online Kim

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #239 on: April 10, 2021, 05:38:45 PM »
That's an interesting detail!   It's those kinds of little things that really make a model more 'real' you know?
Great work, Chris!
Kim