Author Topic: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build  (Read 154152 times)

Offline 90LX_Notch

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #195 on: April 04, 2021, 06:29:36 PM »
I’ve been following along in the shadows Chris.  Now that I have upgraded my technology I can come out into the light and post.  Excellent work as usual. 

-Bob
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My Engine Videos on YouTube-
http://www.youtube.com/user/Notch90usa/videos

Online crueby

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #196 on: April 04, 2021, 07:12:07 PM »
I’ve been following along in the shadows Chris.  Now that I have upgraded my technology I can come out into the light and post.  Excellent work as usual. 

-Bob
Thanks Bob, great to have you along for the ride. Hope you brought snacks, its going to be a long trip!

Offline Admiral_dk

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #197 on: April 04, 2021, 09:23:44 PM »
Congratulations on your new tool  :ThumbsUp:

I got a similar one - or more correct - I had the same model until they were able to ship the MMU (enables me to use five different plastics / colours etc.) on the same print. I had a few mishaps with mine - one turned out to be a screw that wasn't torqued hard enough, so it came loose and the printing head as well a result  :-[
This was discovered during the upgrade -> so it worked nicely for some time again (except with flexibles  >:( ) until it couldn't be persuaded to load the filaments ....  :Mad:   :cussing:
I can for that reason highly recommend that you add an SMD LED on the Filament sensor on top off the printing head, that shows if the sensor thinks that the Filament is loaded - this has shown me a few times that the sensor needs to be adjusted => everything works very nicely again  :)
There is a nice little article on how to do so on the Prusa site.

Still following your big build  :popcorn:    :cheers:

Per

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #198 on: April 04, 2021, 09:36:45 PM »
Congratulations on your new tool  :ThumbsUp:

I got a similar one - or more correct - I had the same model until they were able to ship the MMU (enables me to use five different plastics / colours etc.) on the same print. I had a few mishaps with mine - one turned out to be a screw that wasn't torqued hard enough, so it came loose and the printing head as well a result  :-[
This was discovered during the upgrade -> so it worked nicely for some time again (except with flexibles  >:( ) until it couldn't be persuaded to load the filaments ....  :Mad:   :cussing:
I can for that reason highly recommend that you add an SMD LED on the Filament sensor on top off the printing head, that shows if the sensor thinks that the Filament is loaded - this has shown me a few times that the sensor needs to be adjusted => everything works very nicely again  :)
There is a nice little article on how to do so on the Prusa site.

Still following your big build  :popcorn:    :cheers:

Per
I think they changed the loading in that newest upgrade (which mine has from factory), so that it uses the led/sensor in the filament path already. Or are you talking about an external indicator? I couldnt find the article you mentioned, can you post the link? They have a LOT of articles!When you change colors, I assume it stops the print and prompts you for the new color? I have not gotten anywhere near that level yet!
 :cheers:

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #199 on: April 04, 2021, 09:40:34 PM »
Oh, and I figured out what the whirring sounds I heard late last night were from - the shop elves must have been reading the manual, and learned how to print out a new pet from the sample prints they include files for....

Gonna have to lock up THAT power cord too...   :facepalm2:

Offline Admiral_dk

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #200 on: April 04, 2021, 10:17:56 PM »
Hi Chris

No it changes between five different Filaments automatically - se the rightmost here :
https://www.prusa3d.com/
It does mean that it creates a 'Waste Tower' when it changes filament .... in order to purge the printing head.

I have just discovered that I can't even find my own posts on the Prusa user forum now  :shrug:
But I was also reminded that the Filament sensor isn't the same if you got the MMU or not ....
The LED I'm talking about is not really external, as you have to drill a 2mm. hole in the top lid over the printing head, to see it, but it, + a resistor or two, is put on top of the existing PCB, so you get a visible indication of the state that the MCU is reading (but doesn't show - not even LIVE if you ask it to do so in the LCD).

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #201 on: April 04, 2021, 10:28:57 PM »
Hi Chris

No it changes between five different Filaments automatically - se the rightmost here :
https://www.prusa3d.com/
It does mean that it creates a 'Waste Tower' when it changes filament .... in order to purge the printing head.

I have just discovered that I can't even find my own posts on the Prusa user forum now  :shrug:
But I was also reminded that the Filament sensor isn't the same if you got the MMU or not ....
The LED I'm talking about is not really external, as you have to drill a 2mm. hole in the top lid over the printing head, to see it, but it, + a resistor or two, is put on top of the existing PCB, so you get a visible indication of the state that the MCU is reading (but doesn't show - not even LIVE if you ask it to do so in the LCD).
Wow - thats quite a mechanism to feed the different colors like that!


With just printing one color at a time, and I'll mainly be using just gray/silver and painting, having the LED is not that important, since the first thing it does at the start is lay down a stripe to ensure the head is purged of old material and I will see if that does not work. So far I am pretty happy with the unit, the instruction manual for assembly was the best I've ever seen, only a couple places where it needed a clearer picture or some such. The instructions for the slicer could use a little more work to explain the options and why you would use them, and some more basic walkthroughs, but thats a common issue with any complex device.

For now, I've been printing off some of the pipe elbows/y's, start one up and go play in the shop with the proper fun tools!   :LittleDevil:

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #202 on: April 04, 2021, 10:45:31 PM »
I was going through my pictures of the pump station to figure out what went through a particular bolt hole in one of the parts, and noticed this one - a couple of the wrenches sitting on the platform by the engine beds. The bigger one has a lifting eye on it, they must need to suspend it to lift the thing up to the bolts!



Fun what is lurking in the photos that were not noticed at the time!

Oh, and above the wrench, you can see some writing on the vertical frame rail - that is the casting part number, matches up with the numbers on the blueprints.

Offline derekwarner

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #203 on: April 05, 2021, 01:03:00 AM »
The larger item [open ended spanner] by it's length would be termed as a Flogging Spanner, however these are usually a form of a Ring Spanner...[I suspect the hole in the short shank of the large open ender was for mounting the spanner on a Shadow Tool Board]

Very dangerous placing a reasonably wide jawed open ended spanner on a nut & having a second person use the 28lb hammer to flog the nut up......but that is what happened  :shrug:

In this enlightened day and age, we use sockets with hydraulic torque multipliers to accurate and safely tension fastners, or even better hydraulic bolt stretching devices so the need for impact is not needed......just stretch, rotate the nut until engaged on the flat surface & release the induced tension [stretch] in the bolt & all done  :ThumbsUp:     

The spanner painted red , we called a Bent Banana or S handled spanner  ...used of course for inverting and gaining double the engagement orientations....

Oh the joys of such work  :old: ....yes, back then...we had a Fitters Mate [assistant] to carry all of the heavy tools..sometimes on a wheel barrow or trolley....such a large spanner must never be left on the machine after work..[lazy, bad house keeping] could also have been a safety issue .....with much  :Director: from the Engineer or Foreman for allowing it to happen  :cussing:

Derek

PS...for clarification, the other Red Spanner in industry was the oxy-acetelyene
« Last Edit: April 05, 2021, 01:27:46 AM by derekwarner »
Derek L Warner - Honorary Secretary [Retired]
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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #204 on: April 05, 2021, 07:57:59 PM »
Derek - I'm sure the guys who left the spanners there are long gone, so we'll have to search for a new foreman to yell at them!   :Lol:
I remember a guy down the hall in one of the buildings I worked in that had a huge open end wrench hanging on his office wall (good thing he had a solid back wall in the office) that must have been three feet long, four or five inch opening. Not sure if it was his, or if he just couldn't lift it to get rid of it!

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #205 on: April 05, 2021, 08:08:23 PM »
Some more progress on the pump level frames. I was thinking about the order of the next steps, and decided to make the plates that connect each pair up at the top to make sure things are lining up correctly.  These plates hold the lower rails, and on top of them there will be the big engine bed castings that connect the pairs and hold the upper engine leve frames that go up to the cylinders. As with the pump base plates, I made up the blanks (6 of them) and drilled one, then used it as a drill guide for the others. The corner holes were all tapped for the bolts from the frame rail end pads.

Still some more tapping to do, but I bolted up one set to see how it all fits. Had one pad where the drill must have angled that needed to be opened up, rest went well. There is a ruler sitting on top, used that to judge the alignment on the top and sides of the plates.

I'll get the other plates tapped, then I think the order will be to loctite the tenons on the rails into the mortises on the pads while using the assembly to hold things in alignment. Then, can unbolt the pads top and bottom, and use the milling jig to hold the rails/pads to drill for some cross pins and put the angles on the pads - they get tapered in at the top sort of like the base plates did. With the tapers, holding the pads by themselves will be tricky so waiting till they are attached to the rails will give a place to clamp them. The cross pins will give a good mechanical connection so its not depending just on the loctite - could be lots of force when moving the model around.
 :cheers:

Offline cnr6400

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #206 on: April 05, 2021, 08:43:34 PM »
 :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
"I've cut that stock three times, and it's still too short!"

Offline Admiral_dk

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #207 on: April 05, 2021, 10:09:53 PM »
I know it's not an extremely big spanner - but the biggest I have encountered, was in my youth.

I had an afternoon job at the local Authorized VW repair shop - running around with a broom and cleaning the place .... One day I was asked to turque the big Wheel Nut on a Beetle - the one in the centre (not the five small bolts holding the wheel). It was about 1.5m (~6') long and had a 10:1 reduction gear in the middle, in order to torque the Nut to 800Kg/m. - to a degree easy to understand that the Brake drum / Hub, needs to be firmly fixed to the axle .... It still needed me to put most off my weight on top of it + of cause one to press the brake pedal hard at the same time ....

Offline simplyloco

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #208 on: April 05, 2021, 10:24:50 PM »
I know it's not an extremely big spanner - but the biggest I have encountered, was in my youth.

Me too, I was about ten years old. My late father was a bulldozer driver, big CATS - D8s & D9s, and I used to go to work with him in the school holidays. I remember holding his hip as we both jumped off the track onto a one inch diameter tommy bar some six feet long to remove the nuts on the rear drive sprocket!
Strong minds discuss ideas, average minds discuss events, weak minds discuss people.” ― Socrates

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Re: Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build
« Reply #209 on: April 05, 2021, 10:58:09 PM »
I know it's not an extremely big spanner - but the biggest I have encountered, was in my youth.

Me too, I was about ten years old. My late father was a bulldozer driver, big CATS - D8s & D9s, and I used to go to work with him in the school holidays. I remember holding his hip as we both jumped off the track onto a one inch diameter tommy bar some six feet long to remove the nuts on the rear drive sprocket!
Only time I needed to jump on the bar for a lug nut was on my own car, an old Bobcat which was a Pinto with delusions of grandeur - fortunately mine was after (they claimed) they fixed the flaming gas tank issue!  One of the lugs was frozen on, tire was flat, car came with one of those silly folding one-arm lug nut wrenches, so a friend and I found a bit of pipe to put on a ratchet handle to break the nut loose. It got it loose, but destroyed the ratchet in the process. It was a Craftsman ratchet handle though, so back to Sears to get it swapped with a brand new one. Those were the days....   :o

 

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