Chris's Holly Pumping Engine Build

[Dan Rowe]

Chris every time I see new photos of your work I am amazed at what you do with a Sherline. I have one with a brass bed which dates it. You get more work out of your machine in a week than all the work I have ever done with mine.

Cheers Dan

[crueby]

Chris every time I see new photos of your work I am amazed at what you do with a Sherline. I have one with a brass bed which dates it. You get more work out of your machine in a week than all the work I have ever done with mine.

Cheers Dan

Thanks Dan! 

A brass bed on the Sherline, that IS an old one!      I remember seeing one like that at W*rk  years ago in the ink chem lab, they had it for making test fixture bits I think.  The brass bed ones ended in 1982, when they switched to steel. If yours is a early 1970's one, it was made in Austria.

[crueby]

Loctite has set up enough to clean off the excess squeezed out, so here is a picture prior to getting some paint thrown at the assembly:

[Firebird]

Hi Chris

 

I am still lurking 

Cheers

Rich

[crueby]

Hi Chris

 

I am still lurking 

Cheers

Rich

Hi Rich!
Thought I saw some eyeballs peering over that far bench!       Good to have you along for the ride. Looks like the second cylinder may be ready for some run tests in another week or so.

[cnr6400]

 

[Flyboy Jim]

Chris every time I see new photos of your work I am amazed at what you do with a Sherline. I have one with a brass bed which dates it. You get more work out of your machine in a week than all the work I have ever done with mine.

Cheers Dan

Not only that Dan, but we just found out the other day that our Sherlines are good for turning wood! 

Jim

[Dan Rowe]

Not only that Dan, but we just found out the other day that our Sherlines are good for turning wood! 

Jim

I will admit to turning a bit of the brown stuff on a Sherline but what I still use my Sherline for is wax. The master patterns I make in house often start as wax. I put on my optivisor and in my head I am running a 40" lathe which is what it would scale to.  Hey when you are using  a 3.5" scale tool bit you can really take a heavy cut. 

Cheers Dan

[crueby]

Chris every time I see new photos of your work I am amazed at what you do with a Sherline. I have one with a brass bed which dates it. You get more work out of your machine in a week than all the work I have ever done with mine.

Cheers Dan

Not only that Dan, but we just found out the other day that our Sherlines are good for turning wood! 

Jim

Hi Jim. I'll let Sam The Eagle reply to that one...

 

[crueby]

Not only that Dan, but we just found out the other day that our Sherlines are good for turning wood! 

Jim

I will admit to turning a bit of the brown stuff on a Sherline but what I still use my Sherline for is wax. The master patterns I make in house often start as wax. I put on my optivisor and in my head I am running a 40" lathe which is what it would scale to.  Hey when you are using  a 3.5" scale tool bit you can really take a heavy cut. 

Cheers Dan

I've noticed the same effect when working with the magnifier, after a while a 0-80 screw can start looking big. Then look around the room, and wow, all the furniture got REAL big!

[crueby]

Just found a way to remove all desire to do any fiddly small work. Running in the screws that hold the IP cylinder to the engine frame. These are recessed under the base cap inside a chamber just tall enough to use tweezers to put the screws into the holes drilled in the base.

Two very high-tech tools needed, a dental pick and Jeff Dunham's next ventriloquist dummy, Wrench - On A Stick!

The tip of the pick is used to push down on the screw head and keep it vertical, while the little open end wrench tries to start the screw threads, one flat at a time. And tries. And tries. Finally gets it, then another 5 minutes to run the screw in the rest of the way. Yay! Wait, theres more to do.... 

Finally got them in, and set the cylinder and top cap on for a group shot

Before I put the cylinder in place for real, I need to make the piston and fit it and its o ring to the cylinder. The piston rod, which bolts into the cross head so is removeable, was left long. To know where to trim it, the crankshaft was spun around to mark where the piston rod is relative to the base cap at bottom and to the cylinder top at top center. These two marks tell me where the piston head has to be between...

Oh, and the valve rods were all installed with a little oil after painting, they are ready to go. After the piston I can start on the valve crank arms and rods.... Not today, after the fun mounting the base!  The good news is that for the LP cylinder the base is in two parts, and it overhangs the engine frames enough to have the final bolts go in from underneath to connect the base flange and the rest of the cap.

[Kim]

Very fine work there, Chris! (Fine in both meanings of the word ) 

And that's a very cute little wrench-on-a-stick you made there!

Kim

[cnr6400]

 

Those IP bolts look like a real riot to install --- NOT---- oh well, just keep saying the mantra "model engine building is fun" 

Speaking of a riot - I've been trying to separate a plate from a shaft today in my shop, for a machine repair. Trying to turn the shaft away under the plate. Both are hard as diamonds on steroids, over 70 Rc. Wrecked 2 carbide tips already.  Borrowed a CBN tip from a friend to try next.  Might have to belt up a 50 hp diesel to the old South Bend to power a CBN tip.... If that doesn't work, the blue wrench is next. Can't be hard if it's liquid.  we shall see.

[crueby]

Those IP bolts look like a real riot to install --- NOT---- oh well, just keep saying the mantra "model engine building is fun" 

Speaking of a riot - I've been trying to separate a plate from a shaft today in my shop, for a machine repair. Trying to turn the shaft away under the plate. Both are hard as diamonds on steroids, over 70 Rc. Wrecked 2 carbide tips already.  Borrowed a CBN tip from a friend to try next.  Might have to belt up a 50 hp diesel to the old South Bend to power a CBN tip.... If that doesn't work, the blue wrench is next. Can't be hard if it's liquid.  we shall see.

Just hand a shop elf a plasma cutter and stand back.  WAY back.

[mklotz]

If I were faced with the problem of mounting those bolts I'd first touch the bolt head with a center drill to make a locator spot for the dental tool.  Then I'd wrap a few turns of thin sewing thread around the bolt.  The idea is to set the bolt in the threaded hole and keep it erect with the dental tool (as you were doing), then pull the sewing thread to (hopefully) get the threads started.