Bar-stock "Mary"

[joe d]

Terry, Chris, Thanks! Dave:  currently putting the photos in AdeV's Coppermine at the 800x600 recommended size.
It took me a few goes to remember how to insert them in the text instead as thumbnail attachments.
If anyone has a non-complex method of putting larger ones, within the site's size rules, please let me know!

Cheers, Joe

[Dave Otto]

You need to remove the "normal_"  from the the tag for the picture to display full size.
Coppermine uses three different picture sizes depending on where you copy the link from. Below are links for the same picture, you can see that there is a thumb nail, normal and full size.

https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10012/thumb_Vise_092.jpg
https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10012/normal_Vise_092.jpg
https://lister-engine.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10012/Vise_092.jpg


Hope this helps,
Dave 

[joe d]

Well crap, that's easy.... Thanks Dave!

Joe

[joe d]

Well, with thanks again to Dave Otto, I've gone back to the start and put in the full-size photos.
Currently as far as post #20, and am cross-eyed.  I'll go at it again in the morning!

Cheers, Joe

[Ramon Wilson]

Hi Joe - Super job on that entablature. I've puzzled that part quite a bit as to how best to machine it from solid. Shan't be doing that any more  - copying and flattery etc 

I use Google Photos for storage - take the pics with a Nikon Coolpix set on 3 MPx. Transfer the selected ones into 'My Pictures - upload to Google album - select pic and click into the post box. I don't need to resize at any time.

Looking forwards to how you tackle the beam and cylinder

Regards - Tug

[joe d]

Thanks Tug!  I've now caught up replacing the photos with a more user-friendly size for anyone who wants to go back and see what I was on about....

Cheers, Joe

[joe d]

Hi all

Next was the dummy pump (as this will run on air, don't need feed water)

Turned the gland on the end of a brass bar, put it in the dividing head to drill tapping size holes through into the main body, then opened up the ones in the flange to clearance size


Put the chuck back on the spindle of the lathe, parted  off, drilled the pump body to accept it, installed it with some temporary cap screws, drilled the hole for the pump ram.  Moved the dividing head to the mill and shaped the flanges while still attached to each other


Nearly done: need to make the studs to complete it.


Then made the rocker bearings for the valve, rounded the edges of some flat bar, soldered on a flat bit at the bottom, drilled tapping size from the top, split them , cleaned up the mating faces, clearance drilled the top, assembled, drilled, then reamed.  Manged to not take any "in progress" photos
so here's the end result in place.  As always, the cap screws are temporary, awaiting studs


Cheers, Joe

[Bear]

Excellent.

Your Taig mods and additions are very clever as well.

[joe d]

Bear:  three weeks later, thanks for that... (apologies for not responding sooner!)

Next up was the beam:  A lot of time spent for three pictures

Got nearly 2 sq feet of 1/2" brass from a friend's garden shed many years ago, have been whittling away at it ever since.
No idea what alloy it is, but it's miserable stuff to machine,  but given the price of brass these days, worth the trouble I guess...

Cut a piece out, and chain drilled the outline of the beam,  laid out and drilled the holes required for later that also conveniently act as hold-down spots for milling


Good old Mk1 hacksaw to cut off the excess, and then a lot of work with the belt sander to clean it up and bring it to size



Bolted directly to the mill, and etch-a-sketch time


Then flipped it over and repeated... spent quite a bit of time with some rifflers smoothing out the machining marks left on the inner curved faces

A lot of work, but as one of the most "visible" features of a beam engine worth the trouble I think!

Cheers, Joe

[Bear]

No apologies needed. Looking great.

[gbritnell]

Great work on the beam. Boy I don't hear the word rifflers thown around much. I use them all the time for my projects.
gbritnell

[Roger B]

I'm enjoying the build in the background     

I don't know how you can do model engines without rifflers  IC engine ports certainly need them 

[joe d]

Bear, George, & Roger:  Thanks for looking in and the kind comments.

Finished the beam, reduced the width of the flanges, and lowered the ribs, and shaped the transition to the eyes on each end


And moved on to the trunnion bearings.  Raw material with a piece for the cap in place, and various lay-out & hold down holes drilled:


Set up on the rotary table and milled the bosses with a ball-end mill


Switched to an end mill to reduce the thickness all over, and a final pass with a ball end cutter to form a fillet at the base


The cross slide on the Taig lathe was the exact height needed for drilling & reaming the holes for trunnion without any packing, so stacked the two pieces and did them at once, so they match up


Back to the rotary table on the mill to connect the dots of the various lay-out holes, and finished by sawing off the excess that had the hold-down
holes


Milled a pair of curved segments on the rotary table for the outriggers, relieving the centre of both sides, added a bit of round bar to form a boss,
held them all together with some sacrificial brass cap screws, and silver soldered the lot together


cleaned up on the belt sander, and here in place on the entablature:


Cheers, Joe

[Ramon Wilson]

Hi Joe

Haven't been on for a while so just caught up with your latest progress. Great work on that beam - that internal milling must have been quite time consuming. Very nice thinking and a great result on those trunnion bearings too.

Ha who needs castings eh? Lovely work

Tug

PS Plus 10 for rifflers too 

[Bear]

Always a pleasure to see how nicely it is coming along.