E-gad, he’s making another one of those crazy pop-up things

[cnr6400]

Very nice work Craig on the latest one of the "crazy pop-up things" ! 

[MJM460]

Hi Craig, following along as always.  They are fascinating engines.  The pioneers showed great ingenuity in thinking up some of these unusual designs.

Off to a great start with the basic structure well on the way.

MJM460

[Craig DeShong]

Chris, Dave, CNR6400, and MJM460; thanks for your encouragement and comments.  Thanks also for those who silently stop by.

Yesterday I made the bearing blocks for the primary and secondary shafts.  The shafts will run in needle bearings so I really didn't need to use brass; still I though a little color contrast might be warranted.  The bearing blocks were followed by the bearing studs, caps, and nuts.   I still need to make the oilers, which will be only cosmetic.  No need to rush to complete them.



Back when I was working on the column I omitted making a bracket that attaches to the column on which a stabilizer bar will mount.  On the full size this is part of the column casting but I'm making it a separate part on the model.  It has a curved surface that mates to the column; here I'm forming that surface with my rotary milling head.



Normally I would just cut this piece off the stock with my cut-off saw.  In this case I want a surface square to the stock so I'm using a end mill to mill through the stock.



With the piece cut off I'm using an end mill to face the surface that will face away from the column.



Time to drill a few holes.  The holes with recesses will be used to attach the piece to the column.  The others will be used to mount another bracket for the stabilizer bar.
 


And here's the piece mounted to the column.  I thought I had the correct flat head screws in my inventory but apparently, not.  The flat head screws will sit flush with the bracket surface.

[Art K]

Craig,
I don't know what our travel plans will be? My wife gets her second covid shot Monday and about a week ago had her first in person session since March. I'm younger, not essential for the limited supply of vaccine yet. I'll have to get in gear and get something done in the shop. It could be the Cabin Fever show might be the next one that does actually happen. We haven't seen the in-laws for over a year now, zoom calls excluded.
Art

[Craig DeShong]

Thanks for stopping by.  Art; hope it all works out for all of us.

I know I’ve been quiet for a while; but the shop has just been too dang cold to try to warm up so I could spend some time out there.  We’ve had a lot of cold, wet weather lately; but I’m not complaining. Where ours has been rain; lots of other folks have had snow upon more snow.  I’ll take the cold rain, even though it does curtail my shop activity.

I did get out in the shop briefly yesterday; but the air was miserable and damp and as soon as I started warming the shop my tools starts sweating.  The Bridgeport and the better made tools can stand it but my import stuff (like the mill drill, lathe, and other smaller tooling) just rust; so I wiped everything down with oil and abandoned activity for the day.

Today the air was drier and I didn’t have a condensation problem.

I had lots of items to choose from in deciding what to make next but I decided on making the two shafts.

Below I’m turning down a 5/8th inch section of stock to the 9/16th diameter I need on the main shaft.



Once machining was completed on that end of the piece I turned the work around in the lathe and worked the other end.


Next it was time to mill a few woodruff key slots in the shaft.


And finally mill the keyways that will hold the flywheels and pulley in place.


Next I’ll work on the secondary shaft.

[kvom]

I always try to buy drill rod the diameter I want rather than trying to turn down like that.  But if it works for you so much the better.

[Craig DeShong]

Thanks for stopping by. 

Kirk: back when I designed this model I was planning to use 9/16th drill rod for the two shafts but as I got into the design and started looking for bearings I realized that my bearing supplier didn’t have 9/16th inch ID bearings in an open format.  They had sealed bearings; but I can’t afford the drag inherent in sealed bearings.  They could supply open format bearings with an ID of 5/8th inch; thus the design of the main shaft with a larger center section over the clutch area.

Today the weather allow some shop time so I took advantage of the mild weather.  Below I’m starting on the secondary shaft.  This shaft also has a larger diameter center section, however, this is for cosmetic appeal.  I am trying to make an accurate model of an extant engine and details such as this make the difference between a model that “sort of” looks like the full size and one that closely resembles it.


Below I’ve made the final pass on this side.


Turning the shaft around in the lathe, I’m starting to work down the opposite end.


And below; I’ve met the required diameter of this side.


The secondary shaft needs two woodruff key slots; one for the ratchet and the other for the secondary shaft driven gear.  The governor drive gear is also located on this shaft but I’m planning to use set screws to affix it in location.


Bellow, a “family” shot of the two shafts


With the shafts complete; I’ll fabricate the bearing races next.  These races are used with needle roller bearings and they support the shafts using the bearing blocks on the table discussed several posts ago.  I make these bearing races as separate parts from the shafts.  They need hardened to run in the needle bearings and it just seems simpler to make them separate, as opposed to turning the shafts to size and then hardening them.  Below I’m turning the major OD of the race.



The next step was to drill, bore, and ream the center of the race to accept the 9/16th shaft.  I drill these undersize, then use a boring bar to get within a few thousandths of the final diameter, then ream the opening to size.  Below I’m boring out the race.



Following up the boring with a 9/16th ream.



Next I’m turning the OD of the race to fit the 5/8th ID of the bearing.


The final step is parting the race off the stock.


Then there were three more to make.  I still need to harden these races.  I’ll do this with “Kasonite” or “Cherry Red” which forms a hardened surface on low carbon steel.  I’ll probably wait to do this because I’ll soon make a few other parts that will need hardening also.   

[Admiral_dk]

It might not be 'Sexy Parts' but they are needed - so another few ticks off the parts list 

[Craig DeShong]

Thanks for stopping by; and thanks for the comment Per.  Lots of parts to this model.  I believe the Crossley had over 100 different parts and the 3rd gen I just finished was close to that.  This one has a bunch too, but I haven’t counted them yet; that will come when I do a final pass through the drawings and get them all in order to publish.

I’m waiting on my bearing supplier to ship the main roller bearings; if I don’t get them soon I’m going to be in a bind till they’re delivered.  Missing the main bearings, I thought I’d work on the clutch.

Here I have the blank mounted in the lathe; I’ve taken a facing cut and then I started working down the different diameters.  I’m using an interesting tool position so I can reach inside the lathe chuck.


With the outside diameters on this side of the clutch established I’ve drilled the center hole and now I’m boring it to size.  I really just need clearance here so this part of the clutch body doesn’t rub on the main shaft.


With the center bored I’ve moved on to boring out the center of the working area of the clutch.  I’ll define the “ramps” on this part of the clutch on the mill later.


Now I’ve turned the piece around in the lathe and am facing the other side of the clutch body down to the correct thickness.


Then, once again, I’m establishing the correct outside diameter on this side of the clutch body.  I have no idea of the purpose of that little ridge in the center.  If I ever get a chance to inspect the full size engine, possibly it’s purpose will be clear.


The final lathe task is to form the pocket for the ball bearing on this side of the clutch body.  The drive gear that meshes with the rack bolts to this clutch body and will have the other bearing pocket for the opposite side of the clutch.


Tomorrow, weather permitting, I’ll move this piece to the mill and continue.

[cnr6400]

 

[Craig DeShong]

Hi CNR; glad to have you along watching the build.  Thanks to those of you who take the time periodically to open this thread and catch up on the latest.

Today was a day of taking a step forward, and then back again; then maybe even: a better step forward.  I started as I threatened stated up post and moved to the mill to continue work on the clutch body.  I started by drilling the three holes that will be used by thru bolts to hold the clutch together.


I had lots more holes to drill to spot the starting and ending locations of the clutch ramps, but on drilling the first hole, my center drill broke off, as I first thought, ruining the piece; but after a little more contemplation I realized that maybe a design change was in order anyway.  Below is an exploded view of the initial clutch design.  You can see that the part I’m working on has ramps cut from one side, but the ramps are all blind cuts into the piece.  The back surface of these ramps needs to be smooth so the clutch rollers don’t hang-up on an irregular surface and I was wondering how much success I would have on getting a smooth surface at the bottom of the ramps.


I realized that I could salvage my initial work on this piece and resolve the possible irregular surface at the bottom of the ramps problem by making a disk with just the ramps.  I could salvage the work I’d done on the original piece by just facing off the part with the broken center drill and the new face on this piece would form the bottom of the ramps.  This new design is shown below.   


So the first job was to cut away the material on this clutch body, including the broken off center drill.  Once that was done there was no reason not to press in the bearing and give the part a trial fit on the main shaft as shown in the two photos below.




With some work salvaged I dashed up to the local metal supplier and purchased a piece of cold roll to make the new part which will contain the ramps.  Here I’ve faced both sides of this new piece to the required ½ inch width.


Next was to bore out the center as I did in the old part yesterday.  That work was lost when I cut some of the part away on the old part.


I was able to hold this part from the inside on my smaller lathe and this allowed me to turn the outside diameter to the correct size.


Placing the piece on the mill, I drilled the three holes in this piece to match the holes in first photo of this post.



So by the end of the day I was back where I started… but I’m thinking with a superior design.  Next I’ll be forming the ramps.  This will be easier because I can cut them through and not have to worry about maintaining a constant depth for each ramp.

[crueby]

Following along, very interesting design.   

[kvom]

Don't use center drill as a spotting drill.   

[Craig DeShong]

Chris and Kirk; thanks for your comments and observations.  Thanks also for those of you who stop by to see the goings-on.

Today was a day to continue work on the clutch.  I started by drilling the corner holes for the clutch ramps.  I used a center cutting end mill to form the ramps; still I think they will give you better work if they have a somewhat smaller diameter hole to follow as they are plunged into the work piece, thus the corner holes.



One that was done it was time to get out the rotary milling head.  This is a job where this rotary milling head excells; I’m not sure how I would locate these ramp centers on a standard turntable.  There are six ramps or arcs of a circle, each with a radius of an inch.  The center of each arc is offset from the true center of the piece by it’s own unique x&y dimensions.  With the rotary milling head, I can use the x & y movement of the mill table to re-locate the center of each arc and have the rotary milling head cut the arc thru the required number of degrees.   Here is a view of the set-up.


And here is a closer view of the milling head cutting one of the arcs.


After a bit of clean-up, below is the finished clutch part.

[Craig DeShong]

Thanks for stopping by.

Work continued on the clutch today.  While looking at the drawing, and the material I hand at hand; I realized that I was going to need something to hold the gear work piece while I cut the gear teeth.  I thought I’d get this out of the way before I started working the steel work piece that will comprise the gear itself.  Here I’ve made a fixture to hold that work piece while I cut the teeth into it.  I’ve just finished drilling and taping the holes that I’ll use to hold the gear blank to this fixture.


With the fixture out of the way, I started on the gear itself.  Here I’ve just finished facing both sides of the gear blank, working it down to the required measurement.


With that complete I drilled and then bored it thru to make room for the main shaft; then bored the pocket that will be used to hold one of the two clutch bearings.


Lastly, for today, I reduced this side of the gear blank to its required diameter.