Barstock Heinrici Anyone?

[Jasonb]

While others have started getting their Christmas castings in early I've let Santa treat me to a set of drawings for this engine and will be busy filling my stockings with barstock or possibly wood if I decide to make some patterns and get some of the parts cast.

http://www.de.heinrici-heissluftmotor.de/html/index.html

As you can see it's a bit different to the usual Westbury based designs that most models seem to be based on having the power piston concentric to the displacer.

Along with the A3 size drawings and a detailed build guide ( in German) there are a number of photos of an original engine both assembled and in pieces so should be able to get it looking fairly correct. Price was a very reasonable 20 Euro for digital drawings but Rolf will also do printed for 25 Euro and speaks (writes) good English.

[Jo]

As you can see it's a bit different to the usual Westbury based designs that most models seem to be based on having the power piston concentric to the displacer.

Westbury's Heinrici with its separate power cylinder is what is known as a Gamma Configuration Displacer type Hot Air engine. Your new Heinrici and the Rider-Ericsson engines with are known as Beta Configuration  Displacer type Hot Air engine.

I do like that one as well 

Jo

[Jasonb]

Did you see the third video Jo, could be handy if there is a power cut.

http://www.de.heinrici-heissluftmotor.de/html/videos.html

Can also be built with the little Heinrici water pump that would have run a fountain but seen here moving the cooling water. I like the ball and socket drive to the pump.

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j-U4f4_wFHY" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j-U4f4_wFHY</a>

[Alyn Foundry]

What about a Gardner Jason?   

[Dave Otto]

While others have started getting their Christmas castings in early I've let Santa treat me to a set of drawings for this engine and will be busy filling my stockings with barstock or possibly wood if I decide to make some patterns and get some of the parts cast.

http://www.de.heinrici-heissluftmotor.de/html/index.html

As you can see it's a bit different to the usual Westbury based designs that most models seem to be based on having the power piston concentric to the displacer.

Along with the A3 size drawings and a detailed build guide ( in German) there are a number of photos of an original engine both assembled and in pieces so should be able to get it looking fairly correct. Price was a very reasonable 20 Euro for digital drawings but Rolf will also do printed for 25 Euro and speaks (writes) good English.

That is an attractive engine

Dave

[Jasonb]

What about a Gardner Jason?   

I think Dave has the answer to that one

[Dave Otto]

And I do like the ball drive pump!

Dave

[PJPickard]

If anyone is interested Andy Ross published an article in Model Engineer for a Heinrici type back in the 70's or maybe early 80's. I always wanted to build it. He had a neat crankshaft design that used dowel pins.

[Bob]

The ball and socket water pump drive is very cunning. The action causes the pump plunger to rotate on its axis and this opens and closes the ports in the water pump so it needs no non-return valves.

Bob

[Jasonb]

That's it bob, few sketches in this post of how it works

https://forum.zerspanungsbude.net/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=29837&sid=f0d0a9491b7cd949f494bfb53d016d06&start=20#p374361

There is a design for a steam engine that uses a similar principal, I've a couple of copies of a nice hand coloured one. I think a model one was published at some time in the past.

[Bob]

I was thinking about laser cut parts for the engine and a cylinder fabricated from off cuts of steam pipe. Possibly about 3" bore. In Gerd Maier's CD for the Heinrici engines there are the patent drawings that give the geometry of the linkages.

Bob

[Dave Otto]

Here is one on a different engine, I don't know anything about the engine it is just some photos I collected from eBay a number of years ago.

Dave

[Jasonb]

That's a nice looking little engine Dave.

I've made a start on drawing this one up with a view to fabrication and cutting from solid rather than using the no longer available castings that the drawings are based on.

First image shows the Trace function being used in Alibre where an imported image, in this case a snip from the drawing file, can be shown on the screen and drawn over. The holes and bosses were located first to the dimensions.

Second image is where the trace comes into it's own as you can draw your lines and curves to follow the usually undimensioned "cast" parts of the casting. I've added a couple of features from the photos of original engines and may even go for a completely separate crankshaft bearing caps as it would make it easy for taking the engine apart.

Lastly the start of an assembly, the jacket with be fabricated from 10mm thick steel plates top and bottom with a length of 3" ERW tube between.

[Admiral_dk]

First image shows the Trace function being used in Alibre where an imported image, in this case a snip from the drawing file, can be shown on the screen and drawn over.

Are you using the latest Alibre Jason ?  I ask because I'm sure my not uptodate version hasn't got that feature - I have been looking as it would have been very useful last year.

Thanks for showing how you go about making this project 

[Jasonb]

Yes, I pay the yearly maintenance and get regular updates to latest version.

See third video down on the left column

https://www.alibre.com/mrenew/

[Bob]

Nice work. Do you plan to fabricate the standards or chew them out of the solid?

Bob

[Jasonb]

I think I will let the CNC chew them out of some 16mm aluminium after having bandsawn the rough profile, I've not shown any internal fillets but will either use a cutter with a rounded (convex) corner or a ball nose one to help give the cast look. Brake lever will be done the same way.

[Jasonb]

I've got a few more parts drawn out. One of the good things about barstock "castings" is that you can make them as true to the original as you want rather than have to slavishly follow what someone else has done where they may have left off details or altered things to make casting easier and/or cheaper.

To that end I have made the top and bottom flanges of the jacket different sizes as the top is smaller on photos I have studied, I've also put the water connections on opposite sides as well as adding a boss for a drain cock/plug. Not sure if I will add the flat for a water pump bracket to screw to as I quite like the look of the three step pulley that mounts to the flywheel hub instead of the pump drive plate.

The crankshaft will now have separate bearing caps, again something seen on all but the smallest of engines and I've also gone for a more typical crankshaft.

[Jasonb]

While waiting for some materials for the current engine under construction I thought I may as well get on with a couple of parts for the Heinrici as I had all the material in stock and the CNC had not been fired up for a couple of weeks so decided to do the levers that transfer the movement of the eccentric boss on the flywheel to the top of the pistons. To help with balance I went with 6082 Aluminium rather than have the weight of a heavier metal needing to be liften along with that of the pistons.

After drawing out in Alibre the exported files were opened up in F360 and the paths worked out. These were the first 3D parts since my old licence expired so I was limited in not having the "steep & Shallow" that I usually like to use but a combination of "scallop" for the upper curved surfaces and "ramp" for the steeper ones and vertical faces worked out quite well. I also did not have any rapids, not much of an issue with the two previously mentioned paths as the tool mainly stays down and in contact with the work, the Adaptive clearing probably took about 5mins longer than it would have with rapids enabled but that was not a problem. Hopefully all the info is in the video captions

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KY4JoL9-skE" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KY4JoL9-skE</a>

The finished items after a quick "shoe shine" with a strip of Emery Cloth. I've already sleeved the middle one and will do the same to the forked end as unlike other versions I'm not keen on running the pivots in bare aluminium



I have also made a start on some of the components that will become the fabricated water jacket, the tube is 3" ERW tube with the wall thinned down to 2.5mm by boring it out.



The 3step pulley and brake adjusting knob were just straightforward turning jobs.

[Jasonb]

A bit of manual machining this weekend starting with the end plates that will form the top and bottom of the water jacket. After pickling the 10mm black bar was bored out as I felt this would be easier now than 100mm down inside the jacket plus it reduced the bulk of metal needed to be heated for soldering.



After soldering and another dunking in the pickle the jacket was brought down to overall length having allowed 0.5mm either end for a clean up pass.



Then onto the mill to trim around the top flange which I had left 1mm all round should it not line up perfectly with the bottom after soldering. Also drilled and tapped various holes for the main bearing brackets and brake adjuster bracket.



Then with it held between a pair of angle plates worked my way round milling the bosses back to length then drilling and tapping as required.

[Bob]

Very impressive progress.

Bob

[Dave Otto]

Looks good Jason, nice work!

Dave

[Jasonb]

Back to a bit more swarf production on the CNC today.

The two brackets that support the crankshaft and rocker shaft were exported to F360 and the various adaptive roughing and finishing paths worked out for both sides. Rather than waste too much metal I printed out two profiles and laid these on some 16mm thick 6082 plate and nested then as close as possible then cut them out on the vertical bandsaw. The bottom and end of the foot were machined on the manual mill to give me a reference corner and the mounting holes added at the same time. I then drilled and tapped three M3 holes to be used to holed the part to my well used machining plate, the plate was setup and then drilled on the CNC so easy to line things up. 6mm 3-Flute carbide cutter uncoated and with a helix angle to suit aluminium loaded up and here it is ready to go.



This shot is at the end of the first 5mm high stepdown of the adaptive, the 5000rpm and 500mm/min feed producing decent chips without stressing the machine and within what I could blow/brush away manually.



This is at the end of the adaptive (roughing) which was set to leave 0.5mm to be removed by the finishing cuts.



I then changed to a 4-flute 4mm dia cutter with 1mm radius corner (convex) to do the rest of the work.



The second side was done in much the same way but with the tool not going around the outside of the work as that had been cut to full depth on the first setting.



I tend to judge how productive the day has been by the amount of swarf produced, F360 tells me that had I started with rectangular blocks then 84% would have been turned to swarf, as I nested them it was probably in the region of 65-70%. Some of the waste lumps will be used to make the caps from.



Once the caps have been made tomorrow I will bore the two shaft holes before softening all the edges and surfaces to get things looking a little more "cast"

[Dave Otto]

Nice progress Jason.
I hauled a pair of Martin 10” fly wheels home from one of the GEARS shows with the intent of doing exactly what you are doing, only in a larger size. Not sure if I will ever get to it, but sure would like to someday.

Dave

[Jasonb]

Thanks Dave, that's going to be a big model!

[Jasonb]

So a couple of off cuts of the 16mm aluminium plate were put in the vice and milled to shape with a 4mm cutter with the 1mm corner radius so they matched the brackets.



Then mounted the other way up the holding piece was milled away before reducing the two clamp lugs to height



After drilling and tapping a few holes the caps were screwed into place and the holes for the crankshaft bearings and rocker shaft reamed. I used a couple of metric 20-40-80 blocks to provide a stop so that the second bracket could be slipped into the same position.



After Loctiting a bronze bush into the rocker shaft holes these were split with a 1mm wide slitting saw. The angle plate pressed up against the side of the bracket stops any tendency for it to flex as I'm gripping it my the bottom flange which is quite a way from the cut.



First of the brackets has had a start made of knocking off the corners and generally softening up the machined look so it more closely resembles a casting yet not incorporating some of the undesirable traits of certain castings.

[Jasonb]

The speed of the Heinrici engines could be controlled by the use of a friction brake so while the aluminium swarf was flying I thought I may as well make that from another piece of the 16mm thick 6082. This action shot is it part way through profiling the outside using a 10mm dia 2-flute cutter for aluminium at 5000rpm, full 16mm high x 0.5mm deep cut, I started with a feed of 300mm/min but as the job got thinner had to reduce that down to about 60%.



Then a change to a 10mm 4-flute cutter with 1mm corner radius to take it down to the various heights.



Looking at the available casting sets none seem to have the writing cast onto the side of the water jacket so I thought this would be a nice feature to add and if you are going to spend the time making a model then might as well get it as true as possible. I posted here about cutting the letters and this is them after an initial clean up.



The reason for cutting them from soft bending brass was so that each letter could be bent to the curve of the jacket which was done by simply sawing a concave face into a scrap of MDF which was used as a punch onto the letter as they sat on some of the tube used for the jacket.



A piece of narrow sign writers masking tape was used to get a horizontal line and the letters spaced by eye starting from the ctr line positions taken from the Alibre file and stuck on with JB Weld. I let it sit for just over an hour after taking this photo so that it thickened up a bit then set the final positions.




After a bit of a clean up I'm happy with how they turned out, will give them a couple of coats of high build primer filler and knock the edges back a bit more at a later date. Starting to look a bit more like a Heinrici now.

[Chipmaster]

That is superb Jason 

Andy

[Dave Otto]

That is really starting to come together Jason!
The lettering adds some nice detail to the model.

Dave

[Jasonb]

The two cast iron flywheels turned up today along with some barstock for other parts, I can see cast iron swarf featuring heavily in my upcoming workshop activity Good service from M-machine as only ordered yesterday.



Made a start on one of them getting the turning done prior to going on the CNC, I used the crank to gauge a nice firm push fit of the bore which should eliminate any tendency to wobble.



As Colin was asking about speeds for turning cast iron the other day I thought I would film the facing off of the excess material. 140mm dia, 425rpm, 0.75mm DOC, 0.075mm/rev feed. Quite reasonable chips and minimal dust, I find the 280 prefers to run a bit on the fast side with a slightly lighter cut rather than a slow speed and deeper cut but the 0.75mm or 30thou DOC soon got rid of the waste material.

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwB9PeUSMpI" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwB9PeUSMpI</a>

[Laurentic]

Lovely work Jason, beaut!

Going back to post No.19 Jason - what did you use to pickle the black bar please?

Chris

[Jasonb]

I use brick cleaner https://www.everbuild.co.uk/product/brickclean/ Screwfix etc do it.

Just use and store outside as the fumes will rust your tools.

[Laurentic]

Thanks   

[Vixen]

 

Mike

[Jasonb]

After turning the second black I decided drill six 1" holes to remove some of the initial waste material as it's a bit more fun than watching the CNC do it with the added bonus that the swarf can drop down rather than need clearing out of deep pockets. While set up like this I also held a scriber point in the chuck and marked the edge of the disc so I could get in the correct position on the other mill.



As I had two flywheels to do and they would need setting up twice so that each side could be done I put a piece of the crankshaft material in a flange mount ER32 collet and clocked that in to 0,0 so the parts would always be centred. 1,2,3 and 20, 40, 80 blocks packed the work up to just clear the top of the collet nut.



It was then just a case of placing a flywheel on the pin, rotating until the mark lined up with a pointer in the chuck and clamping down tight. The basic shape was roughed out with an adaptive path using a 6nn 3-flute cutter at 4500rpm, 300mm/min feed, 5mm vertical DOC with 1mm stepover to leave it looking like this



I've actually just started the finishing "scallop" cut in the above photo using a 6mm 4-flute ball ended cutter at 4500rpm, 500mm/min feed and a stepover of 0.25mm which slowly worked its way around the rim and then down around each spoke to leave a finished half looking like this.



It was then just a case of flipping the part over and running similar cuts for the other side though the boss is round on the inside where as the outside had the boss for the crank pin.



The few od ridges and steps look a lot worse than they feel and were quickly removed with needle files and a bit of Emery.

I also got round to setting up an air lower for the second side and wish I had done it sooner as I was able to leave the machine to it's own devices rather than having to keep clearing swarf like I did on the first side during the roughing cuts, not so bad on the finish cuts as very little is being removed. Will show some photos of  this in the Dark Side thread at some time.

[Admiral_dk]

Simple, elegant solution and a very nice outcome 

[Dave Otto]

Nice looking casting Jason!

Dave

[Jasonb]

Thanks, second one is now done except for a quick final fettle. I have put a video in the dark side thread here

[Jasonb]

A bit more progress over the last few days. First a pic of the flange that will be soldered to the hot cap being counterbored using the 45mm stainless tube to gauge final fit, not easy when the tube is not perfectly round or 45mm dia.



The power cylinder was cut from some 65mm dia cast iron bar. This hole is 110mm long, 42mm finish dia and was cut with a 16mm insert boring bar. Started with blacksmith drills upto 1" then to 41mm with a CCMT insert 0.75mm DOC, 600rpm. Then for the last few cuts swapped to a CCGT with two cuts of 0.2mm and one of 0.1mm DOC all at 250rpm and ended up with less than 0.025mm ( 1 thou ) taper which was soon taken care of by selective use of a 3 stone hone.



And finally the near complete flange which just wants squaring off a bit, completed cylinder and in the middle the 42mm dia x 42mm long CI piston which as a 1.25mm wall and a M18 x 1 thread in the 6mm thick bottom to more closely resemble an original rather than the CSK screws shown on the drawings I'm using as a basis for the engine.

[Jasonb]

The next part on the list was the yoke that fits inside the piston, a spigot was turned on the end and then threaded M18 x 1 running in reverse so the tool moves away from the face.



Then over to the mill to machine most of it away but leaving a flange at the bottom



A couple of 4mm wide slots were cut for the ends of the tuning fork shaped conrod and cross drilled for pins, picture of it assembled inside the piston



And another without piston but showing the thin walled brass tube that forms the displacer's piston rod passing through it.



Bearing in mind the weight issue that Jo mentioned on her engine while I was set up for squaring the ends of the brass tube for the displacer I thought I would thin the 1.25mm wall down to 0.9mm to save a bit of weight. I knocked up a bung to go in the end of the tube so that the chuck would not distort the tube which also allowed it to be tightened up well so no risk of teh tube walking out of the chuck



After silver soldering the endplates and a spigot into place it was back in the lathe to drill and tap the spigot. I then added ctr support while the spigot was turned down to finish size so it was a firm fit in the thin wall brass tube.



Finally a shot of the finished displacer alongside the stainless steel hot cap with silver soldered end and mounting flange

[Dave Otto]

Nice work Jason!

I'm curious about the choice of SS for the hot cap? It seems to me that the idea is to allow the heat into the engine not keep it out; so I'm wondering if copper or brass might have been a better choice?
On several of my original hot air fans the hot end is made from thin brass. Then on the other hand it seems that the brass displacer would easily conduct a lot of heat up to the cold end and that maybe thin SS would be a better option here.

Just kind of thinking out loud here; on my Essex engine the displacer and piston extension are SS which makes since to me. But David Abbot called out for SS for the transfer tube which is essentially the hot cap on this engine. I don't agree with this and mine will be brass tube like on the original engines. Again the idea is to get the heat into the engine not keep it out. Maybe its all a moot point, I don't know.

Dave

[Jasonb]

Dave, I really just went along with the drawings which list Stainless for the hot cap and either brass or stainless for the displacer. I could not find suitable stainless tube for the displacer anyway so went with brass which worked out the perfect size of 41.2mm (1 5/8") as the 45 x 1.5mm wall tube for the cap actually came in at 42.2 bore.

I have seen one running with this combination and another with an aluminium displacer so fingers crossed.

[Dave Otto]

 

Dave

[Jasonb]

Next job on the list was to make the displacer rod which is made up on several pieces so that it does not tighten up as the rocking lever follows an arc, The drawings show the 2mm steel rod silver soldered into the two brass parts but I decided to allow for some adjustment if needed so went with a rod threaded M2.5 each end and some lock nuts. I also cut the thin wall brass guide tube to length



The "tuning fork" conrod would have wasted a lot of metal if cut from one piece so I decided to do it in two. Firstly the actual fork was cut on the CNC holding it by two extra 6mm pieces left at the ends which made it easy to flip over and run the other side.





The big end halves were also done on the CNC before reaming in the manual mill. I then managed to get two M2 counterbored holes in the bottom of the bore so that I could screw it to the top of the fork with a bit of JB Weld for good measure.



The last thing to do was ream the small end before cutting off the holding material and rounding over the ends



As with all the other pivoting or rotating holes through the aluminium bushes were fitter, in the case of the small ends there were Loctited into place and a traditional split bearing used for the big end.




This got me to the stage of having enough completed parts to see if the Lady wanted to dance. I eyeballed up the timing so the displacer lead the power piston by 90degrees, applied a little light oil to her joints and then gently warmed her bottom with my torch set as low as it would run. After 60seconds or so she decided to perform. 

A couple of observations that may help others who's dancing partner is not so willing.

1. My displacer is over 200g ( scales in shed only read up to that) plus the rod suggest I'm at least 300g yet just like the full size I don't have any counterbalance weights.
2. The engine hardly warmed up while playing and could easily be touched so certainly does not need any cooling at least for shortish runs of 5mins or so.
3. I do have some decent weight in my flywheels, although castings may be more desirable to some if the material is wrong then they are only good for fondling. I feel the weight of the flywheel should carry the engine over any imbalance.

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DkhVSwnelA0" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DkhVSwnelA0</a>

[Alyn Foundry]

A very nice runner Jason, well done!

I also noticed another project nearing completion....

Cheers Graham.

[Jasonb]

Thanks Graham, yes I must get that hoglet finished off

Talking of Vee twins did you manage to get any workshop time and machine that flywheel or have you been flooded/frozen out of the workshop?

[Alyn Foundry]

Morning Jason.

A bit of both really, the nearby brook burst its banks and after torrential rain there followed snow.

I did however get to machine the flywheel casting, absolute joy. I would say it was done completely within 15 minutes.  The Iron turned exceptionally easy and produced nice tight Grey curls.

This weekend is looking reasonably good for making the new burner and a video, fingers crossed.

Cheers Graham.

[Jasonb]

With two lots of Cyclocross streaming this weekend there was not so much progress but I did get the screws made for the engine ranging from M3 to M6, just a couple of nut still to do.

[Dave Otto]

Progress is progress, looks good!
Congrats on having a runner too!

Dave

[Jasonb]

Now that the engine is know to work my thoughts turned to the stand. I was not so keen on the screwed together from plate and angle that was shown on the drawings that I have based mine on so decided to weld one up to look more like a cast base but go my own way as I'm not keen on the "1/4 pipe" profile around the bottom of the originals.

Four pieces of 2mm mild steel were cut out with an thin disc in the angle grinder and then trimmed to size on the manual lathe. I then used the CNC to cut out the arch shape in each leaving 3 tabs to stop the waste moving about. There was a small amount of burring as the cutter ramped into the cut but OK once in had settled down into the cut. 4mm 3-flute carbide at 5000rpm and 300mm/min feed.

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OgUM5e0qp8c" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OgUM5e0qp8c</a>

I silver soldered on a stub of 22mm copper tube for the chimney before clamping the plates to a piece of 3 x 4 angle and tack welding them. My welding is nothing to get excited about but OK for this sort of thing.



Then the rest of the joint was run.



I added a top plate from 2.5mm thick material and then gave the welds an initial clean up with the grinder.



Next job is to add some feet and cut a hole in the top for the hot cap to pass through.

[Jasonb]

I used up some bar ends of 30mm steel to make the feet using the CNC to drill profile and round over the top outer edge before cutting off and silver soldering to the base.



I was asked on another forum about pickling black mild steel (hot rolled) to remove the mill scale so took this photo. 3 of the 4 sides had scale on them which a flap disc in the 4.5" grinder just skidded off except close to the welds so after the silver soldering I filled a shallow tray with brick cleaner and left to marinade for 40mins. You can see that the side to the right is now bright steel with the tide mark wrapping part way up the left side. Excuse the plants but I normally do it outside but it was raining so took cover in the greenhouse.



The other two sides were treated the same which removed all the scale and any soldering flux and then a final fine flap disc to key the surface for paint, you can also see the hole to clear the hot cap flange has been milled into the top plate.





I've also test run it on the base using one of the cheap portable camping stove burners and it romps away with the flame set right at it's lowest heat

[Jasonb]

Well it's taken a bit longer to paint than usual as I went for something a bit different (no I have not deviated from Red! ). For some time I have toyed with the idea of painting an engine in something other than the usual bright new paintwork and bright though not blinged up bare metal, I quite liked the patinated bronze of Ralf's original but that was not the materials originally used so I got busy with my paint brushed and the airbrush as well as the usual spray cans.

















I made up a simple base and milled a hole in it for a cheap camping stove burner that will run the engine at it's lowest setting and it will carry on running for quite a while once the head source is turned off. I have run it for several times for about 15mins each time and the jacket does not get particularly hot as you can easily hold your hand on it and that is without any cooling water plumbed up.

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GS1qC0vNTmU" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GS1qC0vNTmU</a>

[Alyn Foundry]

You know my sentiments Jason.... 

But what a beautiful job, the engine looks superb.

Cheers Graham.

[pgp001]

I am guessing the "distressed" look will have taken three times longer than a new paint job.
But it was well worth the effort, it looks just the business 

Phil

[Jasonb]

I was asked elsewhere how the painting was done so will repeat it here if anyone wants to have a go.

1. Prime the parts - Etch for the aluminium, High5 for flywheels and regular grey for the steel, couple of hours to dry.

2. Satin black spray can over the lot applied in a couple of coats, allow to dry overnight.

3. Apply mustard "resist" to areas where you want the black to show through with a sponge using a dabbing motion.

4. Gloss red spray can applied straight after the resist, 2-3 coats, allow to dry for an of hour.

5 With grey Scotchbrite pad and water rub the surface so red flakes off the resist also removing the resist at the same time. allow to dry over night.

6. with 400g wet & dry used wet rub down the paintwork to get the work areas thin enough so the black starts to show through.

7. using acylics and water apply rusty colours like Raw Unber, and Burnt Sienna blending and lifting off paint with a wet brush. add some Yellow Ochre to selected areas like the water connection threads and off corner.

8. Airbrush diluted Sepia acrylic to soften and blend the previous weathering, this also gives the rust stain to the bare metal like flywheel rims, pully and the screw/bolt heads.

9. Airbrush clear matt acrylic over the lot to seal it all in and tone down any of the gloss remaining on the red and allow to dry overnight

10. Assemble engine

11. Touch up and add sepia to shafts that had to be pushed through bearings during assembly.

That's it for the engine.

The stand was just red oxide coloured stove paint, resist, satin black stove paint, rubdown.

[Chipmaster]

Marvellous Jason, your work keeps getting better and better.

Andy

[Admiral_dk]

Wow - both for the extra effort and the result. Don't get me wrong - I like classy shiny (not bling) - but this one looks like it had earned it's keep for years, followed by some years of neglect and finally a bit off TLC (cleanup + oil)

It runs very nicely and smooth + the small wobble on one flywheel actually adds to the authenticity of well worn and from long time ago ....  Impressive.

Per

[Jasonb]

I would like to say the wobble was added on purpose but it was not. I found that during running some condensation builds up in the cylinder which results in the piston rusting solid in the liner, my efforts to free it slightly twisted the crankshaft so now it has that slight wobble.

[Admiral_dk]

That is almost even better, as it would also had to be a mishap with a full size engine 

Put it in the right kind of scenery - shoot a video - and it could have been mistaken for a full size in situ.