Author Topic: Duplex Pump - how "get it running" ends up with "make most of the parts new"  (Read 21277 times)

Online fumopuc

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Hi Florian, well done. Any chance to see it directly in near future ?
Kind Regards
Achim

Offline ths

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Great to see Florian, it works beautifully. Cheers, Hugh.

Offline ShopShoe

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Florian,

I meant the water (or other fluid) being pumped, perhaps shown with transparent tubing or something like a fountain or somesuch.

I did not mean to make a whole lot of work for you, but I just wanted to see the pump output somehow as well as the cylinders working.

I really do like this project and the way you went about it.

--ShopShoe

Offline Steamer5

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Hi Florian,
 That looks great & runs even better!!

Like the look of your non return valves & the way you have done the pistons. Any chance of a bit of an explaination of how you made them & a CofC drawing or two would be nice too  :happyreader:.....can see a use for the non returns on my loco, never really been happy with either the hard or soft balls ( found the soft ones change shape over time  :toilet_claw:)

Cheers Kerrin
Get excited and make something!

Offline joe d

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Hi Florian

That turned out really well! :praise2:

Great to see it running on steam too.

Cheers, Joe

Offline Florian Eberhard

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Thanks everyone!

@Kerrin: What is a CofC drawing? Probably a section view? In the post where the picture with the non return valves are, you can see three of the steps of machining those plungers.

The machining sequence:
1. Machine the diameter on both sides
2. machine the O-ring groove, depth is in about 0.8 times the O-Ring string diameter, width is around  1 to 1.2 times. It is important that the inner diameter of the o-ring is smaller than the guiding pin. That way, the o-ring is slightly pre-loaded and does not want to get out. If you use an o-ring which has a bigger inner diameter, it will want to fold at one point (due it's under pressure) and that would avoid the valve from closing tight. (I used O-rings with 4mm inner diameter for the guiding pin which has 4.8mm.)
3. machine one or two slots on the top side to let the water flow through the outlet channel (to prevent the valve blocking the bore when lifted)
4. plunge-mill the water grooves on the valve guiding extension.

In the attachments you can see a setion view of the clack valve.
The lift of the valve is limited to 1mm. The guiding pin has in about 0.1 to 0.2 mm less diameter than the guiding bore so it does not get stuck. The lenght of the guiding pin is in about like its diameter.
The outer diameter of the plunger is 7.5mm and the big bore of the valve cavity is 8mm in diameter (machined with an endmill)

@Shopshoe: No worries there about work - its fun for me and therefore I am enjoying to make another movie  ;)

Cheers Florian
« Last Edit: July 31, 2017, 10:51:26 PM by Florian Eberhard »

Offline Steamer5

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Hi Florian,
 Yes you are right, the CofC is Bogstandards sketch, hand drawn instead of a CAD drawing. Thanks for the instruction makes it nice & clear, the only other question is, in the picture you showed when making them it looks like you are using a very narrow very short cut of blade plunged in, I'm guessing you grind it your self to suit the oring size ?

Cheers Kerrin
Get excited and make something!

Offline Florian Eberhard

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Hi Kerrin

Yes, that is  a self ground face grooving tool.
Looks in about like the one on the attached picture but made from a hss blank.

Cheers Florian
« Last Edit: July 31, 2017, 11:05:28 PM by Florian Eberhard »

Offline Steamer5

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Hi Florian,
 Many thanks that great, makes it easy to follow, a mini trepanning tool! I'll add that to the list of thing to learn........it just nevers seems to get shorter!

Cheers Kerrin
Get excited and make something!

 

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