Model Engine Maker

Engines => Your Own Design => Topic started by: Captain Jerry on December 16, 2018, 03:42:39 AM

Title: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on December 16, 2018, 03:42:39 AM
This is the engine that I will be trying to build here.  This is a "wall engine" or maybe a "ceiling engine" that is displayed in the Quarry Mill Museum.  I have never been there but the picture appearing in John's Textile Mill Diorama provided by member, deltatango, gives enough information to go by.  Stew Hart has also modeled this engine and provided plans that others have used to build from. Julius has also prepared detailed plans based of Stew's plans and they will also be referred to at times but these are all METRIC and that is difficult for me. I need to work in inches and pounds and hours and minutes and degrees so I will make my own set of plans in those terms.  Oh, wait, I guess I will have to use decimal inches rather than fractions but I will work in Imperial Time Units.


i get as much fun from the design process as I do from the build anyway so mostly what I need is a few starting dimension and the rest of the design has to follow.  Tools and available material plays a big part.  For cylinders, I like brass or cast iron and If I use brass, the cylinder will probably be about 1 inch diameter and less than 2 inches long.  I want to use aluminum as much as possible for the stationary parts and if I can't get ahold of a big enough piece of aluminum for the engine block, I will build it up from bar or plate.


I also enjoy trying to get in the head of the original designer as much as possible and try to understand the the conditions and limitations that he had to work with.  For example, this engine needed to be compact due to the limits of space. It was intended to hang on a wall or from overhead beams.  Not only did it not get its own building as did many steam engines, it didn't even get it's own floor space.  i also suspect that the reason for the twin cylinders was to provide smooth, high speed without needing a large flywheel.


The overcrank provides a very compact engine with the crankshaft in the center of the plan and the overall length is mostly within the diameter of the flywheel.  So why the angled mounting of the valve chest on top of the cylinders.  Again, I suspect that the reason is space. The valves are mounted on top of the cylinders to keep the engine as narrow as possible. By placing the valves in the same chest, piping is simplified and so is control. Steam pressure is controlled for both cylinders with a single governor. 


The angle of the valve chest is to keep the valve rods axis in line with crankshaft. Any other arrangement would need some kind of crank lever mechanism to have equal valve motion. But why a 15 degree angle?  Why not 23 degrees or 12 degrees? Again it might be space. A shallower angle like 10 degrees would require that the crankshaft be further from the cylinder block while a steeper angle like 20 degrees would move the crankshaft and the cylinders closer together.  That, however could cause interference between the cranks and the cylinder rod end. And it is easier to manufacture to a common angle than to something like a 23 degree slope, so 15 degrees.


All the rest of it just follows from those basic parameters.  I use Alibre' because it is what I have.  I have used it for so long that I don't have to think about it.  I have a free license that is more than 10 years old and I can't upgrade without buying a new PC so that is what it is.  The only problem is that I have used it for so long that I am about out of disk space.  I'm going to have to find some way to offload a bunch of older design files and photographs of engines, kids, boats, and horses, and dogs.  I also need to relearn all of the procedures for uploading designs, photos, and videos to the forum.  I seem to have forgotten a lot of that.
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on December 16, 2018, 04:03:07 AM
And here is where I am in the design process.


PLdEXEwoVgA
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: deltatango on December 16, 2018, 05:44:21 AM
Hi Captain Jerry,
Here is a more detailed picture of the little engine at Quarry Bank Mill that I didn't put in the earlier post:

(https://i4egtw.sn.files.1drv.com/y4mJkiwsEW-obDu4Vee8F4rEOzivUD-UimDC8n8Dw67U5NawyFMWW3wVFbs__3RQInhwc6FH9OIssX-Eqd7mzBJ-h9llIwndD1EbWIFBGNr8RzsiufqTxLb0cE_ftaVoRKtGc1CvQXYMO672fKPgVy_HbY8WquADDX4ewu6dT_LH6LwDJ5cFR_SC2-782MbAGWewccBSHTCYbghxxnQuCQ0hw?width=800&height=600&cropmode=none)

Hope this helps!

Regards, David
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: 10KPete on December 16, 2018, 05:55:28 AM
Most interesting! A Fenner Power Twist 'tween the 'gin and shaft! And a Browning pulley on the gin.....

Beautiful machine.. :Love:

Pete
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: sbwhart on December 16, 2018, 07:26:28 AM

The angle of the valve chest is to keep the valve rods axis in line with crankshaft. Any other arrangement would need some kind of crank lever mechanism to have equal valve motion. But why a 15 degree angle?  Why not 23 degrees or 12 degrees? Again it might be space. A shallower angle like 10 degrees would require that the crankshaft be further from the cylinder block while a steeper angle like 20 degrees would move the crankshaft and the cylinders closer together.  That, however could cause interference between the cranks and the cylinder rod end. And it is easier to manufacture to a common angle than to something like a 23 degree slope, so 15 degrees.



When I first drew this engine up the 15 degree angle was just a guess as I couldn't get direct access to the original to measure it up despite asking Quarry Bank if I could, I just couldn't get it through to them what I wanted to do  :cussing:  :- 15 degrees looked about right and it fitted in nicely with the rest of the geometry.

Stew
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on December 16, 2018, 02:18:03 PM
Thanks to all of my old friends who have welcomed me back to this group. It feels good to do something creative and it is even better to have a group of people like you who are so willing to share your skills and experience. I beginning to get more comfortable in the shop but I still have a few things to remember, like wear overalls in the shop and leave them in the shop, brush your hair and wipe your feet well before coming in the house, find other things to talk about at the dinner table.


David: The better photo that you posted is very helpful. The sharper image makes it easier to work out some of the detail but as usual, more information means more questions which I will ask when I get to them. Thanks. If you have a wider shot that shows home the engine is mounted I would be interested.


Stew:  Thanks for looking in.  I am sure that everyone looks to you as the expert on modeling this engine. I have a hot key on my computer that takes me to your Madmodder build and I go there frequently.  I am going to move as quickly as I can with this project for many reasons and I want to finish it within a year. I will try to post updates as often as I can so if you see me headed down a dead end, I would welcome a "heads up."

Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Gas_mantle on December 16, 2018, 05:06:07 PM
Jerry, I look forward to seeing how your build goes.

I've always liked the unusual style of this engine and did consider making one after I finished Stews' Potty Grasshopper, when I later studied the plans I thought it was a bit beyond my capability but it is still on my to do list.

 :popcorn: :popcorn:
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: deltatango on December 16, 2018, 10:12:38 PM
Sorry Jerry, I only took the two pictures of the overcrank engine. I may be in the area again Sept/Oct next year and can visit QBM and take lots more but:
a) this isn't certain and
b) you'll have the engine finished by then anyway  :)

David
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on December 17, 2018, 04:09:20 AM
David: Don't make the trip just for me.  But if you find yourself in the area....  I was only curious about the mounting. It won't change how I do anything.  Some of the detail that I have discovered examining your photo are more interesting.  The black paint makes it difficult to pick out but there seems to be some kind of spigot on the top of each cylinder, plugged with a square headed bolt.  Some kind of drain or bleed I guess.  By "top" I mean the side facing us.

I also notice that on top of the inlet valve it looks like some kind of hose barb.  Do you think it might have ever run on air or is that some kind of British steam fitting that I'm not familiar with.

Jerry
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Jasonb on December 17, 2018, 08:06:21 AM
One of Stew's photos shows what looks to be a steel braided hose attached probably with a quick connector, as to whether it has steam or air I can't say. There is a small handwheel on the vertical shaft coming out of the top of the valve presumably to control flow into the valve chest.

Possible air run for demos in the mill as there may no longer be a steam supply plus it saves a lot of red tape.
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: sbwhart on December 17, 2018, 09:04:45 AM
One of Stew's photos shows what looks to be a steel braided hose attached probably with a quick connector, as to whether it has steam or air I can't say. There is a small handwheel on the vertical shaft coming out of the top of the valve presumably to control flow into the valve chest.

Possible air run for demos in the mill as there may no longer be a steam supply plus it saves a lot of red tape.

We're about 45 minutes from Quarry bank and visit quite regularly for a walk around the woods to the Manchester airport viewing area, my wife loves watching planes taking off and landing. The museum has a good cafe that do excellent cakes and I take the opportunity to view their other engines running on steam, but they run over crank on air probably because the boiler is some distance away from it.  By the way this type of engine is also known as a "Return Crank.

Cheers
Stew
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on December 17, 2018, 10:26:59 PM
I thought air for demo display might be the case. I have never seen the inside of a steam driven mill.  In the Carolinas, where I used to live, there were all sorts of mills, sawmills. furniture mills, and textile mills. There are even a few foundries.  I was in most of them but seldom got past the purchasing offices.  Sometimes I got to the tool rooms.  My employer manufactured power tools that were sold to the mills through local mill supply houses so I was there mostly to promote brand recognition.


I am beginning to understand that these small engines were ceiling or wall mounted to be close to the line shaft that they drove.  But what was under them?  Was there a drip pan for oil? Where did the exhaust go?
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Jasonb on December 18, 2018, 07:13:32 AM
It's worth noting that Stew saw this engine in a separate workshop so it may have been a long way from the main boiler that powered the mill engines and their shafting. Quite possibly had a smaller boiler for the workshop which has not been restored if it even exists hence the use of air.

Exhaust may have gone back to a blast pipe to help the chimney draw or could simply have gone out the nearest wall, can't see them using a condenser or oil separator on it.
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Shop Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on December 18, 2018, 02:43:06 PM
I have just been looking at the engine and not fully understanding it's use.  Of course it is not a "mill" engine as I usually think of mill engines. It doesn't have enough power to drive the textile machinery.  It is used to power the tools in the workshop.   Looking at the pictures, it is clear that Stew's photo is from the opposite side as David's but still the same site. b


Not to be picky but the valve doesn't look right.  It is on top of the engine where it would be difficult to reach.  I think that valve was put on the engine sometime after it's life in the mill shop.  I think Stew's valve is a much better representation of the original arrangement. So why a governor on a small shop engine?  Because any steam engine really needs a governor.  We shouldn't just think of a governor as a speed control when it is really a power control. How does your mill react when you take a big bite with a roughing end mill? It depends on the built in electronic speed controller to goose up the power just as a governor on a shop engine needs to goose up the power when the table saw rips into a 4" beam.


Stew's nice little governor fits the bill nicely.  Nicely designed and positioned so that it is effective whether the engine is wass mounted or displayed flat.  I may not get to the governor but I will put a drive pulley on the shaft, just in case.


In light of all this, I am changing the title of this thread.
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: crueby on December 18, 2018, 03:11:53 PM
For those that have been there - do you know what the big handwheel on top of a (I assume) a valve is down at waist height to the left of the engine? Could that have been the original steam supply valve to the engine, before it was switched to air? Seems quite large...   :shrug:
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: sbwhart on December 18, 2018, 08:42:58 PM
These small steam engines were used as you would an electric motor today to power all sort of machinery, my model horizontal mill engine that a few of you have built is actually based on a small mill rite's engine that's on display at the Northern mill engine societies museum at Bolton thia engine would sit on top of your desk they would move it about to wherever they needed power such as the re-boring of a large mill engines cylinders.

Any way these are all my old photographs i took of the over crank including some of the machinery it was powering.

I don't believe the engine was originally at Quarry Bank I suppose they found it some ware and decided  it would make a good display for the museum.

(https://i.imgur.com/9OPKsIHm.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/gknWehjm.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/mvMV4mRm.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/xK9SqpMm.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/E2BvLNGm.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/dETkI8dm.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/g0tTTQEm.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/pfCXG4em.jpg)

Stew




Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on December 19, 2018, 12:56:15 AM
I sorted out how to assemble the block from aluminum bar stock but my regular camera was dead and the only camera I had was my phone.  I got a few shots of the results but I have never uploaded to the forum from my phone so this is sort of a test.  I was able to upload as an attachment but I was not able to imbed it in the text. That's something I will have to work out.

In the photo, it looks a little strange.  The loose aluminum block on top will be joined to the rest of the assembly and will be milled to the angle required for the valve chest. I have left it loose to make it easier to route the steam passages (I think) without having to plug holes later. Those details are being worked out now. 


The lower block looks like a single piece but it is assembled from four pieces of 1/2" thick aluminum bar that will be glued with steel filled two part epoxy (JB Weld).  I have had both good and bad experience with this product.  I think you should buy a fresh supply for a critical application like this.  Don't use the half used tubes that have been in the drawer for 6 months, and be sure to mix it thoroughly. I may reinforce the assembly with screws but if I do I will wait until the epoxy has cured for a couple of days and I will use brass screws just incase I drill into one as I go further.
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: deltatango on December 19, 2018, 03:49:14 AM
Hi Chris,
I don't think that the very large valve you asked about is anything to do with the display of a millwright's workshop, it's bigger than the engine and outside the display area. I can't remember anything about it from my visit.

David
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on December 19, 2018, 08:11:06 PM
Hi Stew:


Thanks for the additional pictures.  The second picture has made me realize that I had the proportions all wrong.  I have the cylinders too far apart.  Not sure why but it may have to do with a wrong starting point in my planning, but it seems that the cylinders should be closer by 3/4 of an inch.  My error would have been more apparent if I had started my planning with the crankshaft.  My present spacing puts way to much unnecessary spacing.


I am going to attempt a heroic save of the cylinder block above.  These things seldom work out well so I am prepared to scrap this and start over.


Jerry

Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Tennessee Whiskey on December 19, 2018, 08:24:22 PM
Iíll catch up on the build later, but, for now Iíd just like to welcome you back to port Captain  8). I hoped you hadnít been lost at sea. You have any equine stock now? Iíll be following along on this voyage for sure.

ATB,
Whiskey
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on December 21, 2018, 11:24:33 PM
Hi Whiskey.  Thanks for the shout.  Trying to get back into the swing of things. My animal buddies are just a couple of dogs these days.  All the horses have been moved out to my daughter's training center where there is a lot more space and help to take care of them.  I lost a coupe of my dog buddies this year.  One of them had been suffering from spinal problems from the day we found him.  Not sure if it was a birth defect but I suspect it was from abuse and neglect,  He had good days and bad and one morning he didn't show up for breakfast.  I found him where he had dragged himself under the bushes behind his house. Live but tired of living, his back legs completely paralyzed. I spent the day with him but the next day we had to help him leave.  His sister had been suffering for several years with general poor health.  After her brother died she gave up too.  She would not eat and then she would not get out of her bed in the barn.  Within a few weeks, she was gone too.


I think I have one more project in me so drop in when you ge a chance.  I've got a lot of reading to catch up on too,


Jerry
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Dave Otto on December 22, 2018, 01:29:25 AM
It is rough to say good by to your friends, but at least you can rest easy knowing that you  gave them the best life that you could.
Sorry to hear Jerry, its never easy.

Dave
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: steamer on December 22, 2018, 02:33:58 AM
Ahh man   sorry to hear that Jerry, it's never easy letting them go.

Dave
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on December 22, 2018, 02:45:39 AM
As I expected, my heroic effort to save the cylinder body fabrication failed so it is a do over.  I was prepared for it and it gave me a chance to get a couple of "i know better than that" mistakes out of the way. It also gave me a chance to devise a new or different way to preserve a center position.  Twice, in my earlier effort I meant to reach for the drawbar wrench to change tools and instead, grabbed the vise wrench and loosened the vise.  An old man working on auto pilot or hurrying to much. I lost the center for the cylinder bore and it had been a long process to find it the first time. My solution is to center drill a location that is a known distance along the Y axis from the cylinder center.  I can take the part out of the vise and put it back and then locate the drilled position then shift right or left along the Y to find my location.  I am using boring head in the mill to bore for the add on cylinder.  I chose the location for my witness mark to .495" from the actual center soit will be removed by the counterbore for the cylinder flange.  I think that will be shown in one of the picture att

Oops, battery failing. I will finish this post when I find my charger cord.

Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on January 02, 2019, 05:27:56 PM

I hope everyone enjoyed the holidays.  Lots of family time, not much shop time but now back at it.  I am slowly remembering things that I thought I new.  For example, converting someone else's metric plans to imperial is more than just converting mm > in.  Once you change a critical dimension to standard sizes and eliminate rounding, everything else is up for grabs, and if you also make a change to allow for available material, you might as well start from scratch.


The holidays did allow me some late night design time after everyone else was in bed so I have come up with this as a model within the range of my equipment and experience. I still need to design some of the finer details but this is a working video is what I am going back to the shop with.   


I am aware that the valve timing on the right hand cylinder is out of sync but that is easier to adjust in the shop than it is on the computer.

The valve cover is slid off so I can check the action.

Q18q-etARPE
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on January 08, 2019, 04:14:13 AM
Progress report:


I am making headway on this project but my reporting efforts have been poor.  Partly because I seem to have difficulty sticking to a plan of action, and partly because I have not yet been able to work out a simple method of inserting pictures within the text so I am stuck with using attachments which make it difficult to follow.  Another problem is that this computer, which has more disk storage space than I ever thought I could use is now full of thousands of family photos, CAD files,and other things that I can not bring myself to delete So I am battling a serious problem with creating new designs and processing photographs.


But stick with me if you can. I will get better, I hope.  The first attached picture is the condition of the cylinder assemble as of now.  It is mostly assembled from aluminum bar, which I had on hand.  The cylinders are from cast iron bar.  This will be filled and painted to hide seams and joints so that I can pass it off as if from a single casting. 


The second attachment shows the valve cover removed (no bolts yet) and the valve bodies can be seen.  When they are removed as in the third attachment, you can see that the work against a brass valve plate that is set into the aluminum base.


If you look carefully, you will see that I am still able to create hockey sticks in the valve plate, and If you look closer you can see the top of a broken tap that had to be ground flush.
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on January 08, 2019, 04:41:00 AM
These next three photos will show how the valve base and porting are put together.   Beneath the valve plate, holes are drilled through the valve base and with the valve base lifted, you can see that these holes intersect milled channels in the top surface of the main block.  These channels are connected to vertical holes that intersect with the surface of the cast iron cylinder, just behind the flange.  The final part of this is a slot that is milled into the cylinder and then a final hole drilled through the slot into the vertical hole.  If this works as planned there will be no plugged holes and all of the passages are internal.  The exhaust ports combine and connect to a straight hole through the valve base, the top plate of the main block and exit into the large open section between the cylinders.


At present, all of the aluminum plates are screwed together.  I plan to bond them permanently with JB Weld but I may wait until I can do an operational test before making the permanent commitment.




Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: sbwhart on January 08, 2019, 07:04:32 AM
Good progress Jerry interesting that you are using ally I made mine from brass but ally held together with screws/JB weld will be just as good.

To stop making hockey stick ends in slots simply drill a hole just a tad larger than the slot this will stop the cutter pulling into the corner and the size difference won't matter a jot.

Stew
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on January 08, 2019, 10:45:56 PM

Stew


Thanks for the comments. I may take some different approaches to the development of this model because of my limited equipment and experience.  And also I doubt that i could actually produce parts to specification so I have to make adjustments. And sometimes I let my mistakes lead the way.

There are two big differences between brass and ally for this job. One is dollars and the other is that i have ally.  Paint will make it work.  I have some bronze on hand that i thought might work for the heads but I don't like the color much; particularly when brass will be used for piping and valves.


I have at last worked out a method of getting my photos imbedded so my next progress report may be easier to follow.


Jerry




Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: steamer on January 08, 2019, 10:54:08 PM
Following along Jerry!   keep it coming!

Dave
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on January 14, 2019, 01:36:13 AM
More progress to report.  I have decided that bronze or cast iron are wrong for this project. The color just doesn't work out, no mater what paint color I choose so brass has been ordered and will be here this week. 



I have been dreading having to make the side thrust plates. Stew makes it sound easy but the little voice in the back of my head says otherwise.  I understand the idea of pinning or bolting the plates together and doing the milling as a single job.  The thought of milling a 3/4" wide slot in steel is what shakes me.  I have a good 3/4" drill bit for the first operation but I don't have a 3/4" slot drill or two flute end mill.  I do have a goof 1/2" 2 flute end mill but I doubt that it would live through the job.


For one thing, my mill is just barely adequate for the job in terms of rigidity.  It would leave me with a big filing job and a dulled endmill. The 1/2" wide slot might be adequate but could wind up looking aa little bit skimpy.  The slot only has to be wide enough to pass the crank arms and they will be 1/2" on my version.  I have played around with the dimensions in Alibre' and I think I would like the slots to be 5/8" wide in a 7/8" plate.   Again, no 5/8" slot mill.  A thought came to me in the night and I am anxious to try it. 


Off to the store for flat steel plate.  No problem finding 1/8" thick steel plate.  Flat is another question.  It seems that 1/8" steel in narrow widths is made by shearing or stamping from a larger plate which leave s the steel in a deformed condition.  The edges are thicker than middle and the plate is cupped on one side and curved on the other.  And the edges have been nicely rounded so customers don't hurt themselves.  But it is cheap and available.  I bought a 36" long piece labeled as 1/8" x 1 1/4" for about $4 so today was spent getting it flat and square.


My go to tool for this kind of job is a flycutter equipped with a 1/4" lathe bit with a carbide chip.  The bits are cheap. The edge lasts a long time.  And I can sharpen it with a diamond disc by eye.  Single edge tools are my friend.




(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4854/46680363482_7d24deda08_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2e7Z4K9)flat steel 03 (https://flic.kr/p/2e7Z4K9) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr


The first job was to hack of 4 pieces about 6" long.  Them stack them on edge in the mill vise and take of about 1/8 " of plate width.  I could comfortably take .010" at a time.  I did try .020" one time but the impact was  making my teeth hurt so I went with cuts of .010".  A lot of passes.


Then I flipped the bunch over and did the same thing to the other edges.  I did need to do some deburring of each piece befor putting the stack back together in the vice.  That got the edges nice and square so now I had to deal with the cupped and rounded faces.


One at a time, I put each piece in the vise, with the cupped face down and took a single pass at .005" from the rounded face.  The cut covered the full face, all the way to the edges.  Then, one at a time, I put the new flat face down in the vise and took a single .005" pass over the cupped face.  Again, this single pass cut across the full face, from edge to edge.




(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7873/45817505965_be387cb9b9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2cNJGgp)flat steel 02 (https://flic.kr/p/2cNJGgp) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr


All I need to do now is deburr the edges and clean up the shop.  Tomorrow I will test my idea for milling the slots.  If you don't hear from me, I will be working on a new idea.


Jerry
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on January 14, 2019, 10:15:38 PM
Ok, I got side plates.  All bolted together, I took one more skim to be sure the edges were flat and parallel.


(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7859/46691241492_9768083688_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2e8WPp3)Side Plate l0002 (https://flic.kr/p/2e8WPp3) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr


Then I set them in the vise face up, located the centerline and spot drilled for the two ends of the slot, the con rod pivot and the connecting bars'


(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4852/46691241152_e8b7ac8bcb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2e8WPib)Side Plate l0004 (https://flic.kr/p/2e8WPib) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr


The I drilled two 5/8" holes that form the ends of the slot.  My little HF mill could not handle the 5/8" bit so I had to progress through 3/8, 1/2 and then the 5/8".  Now comes the big idea that would make the job easy.


(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4899/39778911253_b752fbb547_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23B8jrt)Side Plate l0005 (https://flic.kr/p/23B8jrt) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr 


(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4903/39778911123_a2849f3e9c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23B8jpe)Side Plate l0008 (https://flic.kr/p/23B8jpe) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr


 That doesn't show it very well, but that is a boring bit in a boring head.  The single cutting edge avoids the problem of the cutter being pushed to the side at the end of the slot and is adjustable.  The results look good so far but that is after about a dozen passes.  I could only get about .010" D.O.C. before the mill complained.   I needed another idea.  I have a bunch of 3/8" end mills that I could sacrifice for the job that have dulled edges on the end but the sides of the flutes are in good shape so I replaced the boring head with a 3/8" endmill, and cutting full depth, plowed through the center of the slot.  The cut was not difficult.  It took a little feel with the feed rate to keep the bit cutting but not to fast or tthe mill would stall and I would have to back up.  For some reason, I didnt get a foto of this operation.


In any case, I went back to the boring head for the final passes. With the center of the slot opened up, I had no problem finishing up the slot in four more passes and the a few more passes with the diameter increased a few thousandths.  I am reasonably pleased with the results.


(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4810/39778910973_ea1e89772b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23B8jmD)Side Plate l0010 (https://flic.kr/p/23B8jmD) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr




Just one note on the bit.  The stock bits are really not ground right for a hole this small.  There is not enough face angle? to get a good cut.  The bit can be rotated in the head by just a few degrees to increase the angle but then there is not enough relief behind the cutting edge so you get a lot of bumping as the heel drags in the cut.  So over to my little Unimat SL equipped with a diamond grit wheel and grind away behind the cutting edge for relief.  A little relief on the bottom edge helps too.


Tomorrow,  I will mill the tail ends of the side plates that slide in the guides and think about how to shape the outer contours.


Jerry
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on January 15, 2019, 11:24:09 PM
I wasn't really complaining, more like bitching, but if you see me struggling like I was with the mill for the last few days, remember, I haven't touched a machine tool for over two years.  You can throw in a little bit of basic help or remind me of things we know but forgot, like "make sure everything is tight."  This morning I spent giving the mill a little TLC; adjusted the gibs, tightened up the backlash, aligned the DROs (cheap Igaging stuff), squared the vise.  I even repacked the spindle bearings on the Unimat SL.   The mill was a pleasure to use today.  No pics, but just saying. help is always appreciated. So are reminders.


Jerry
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on January 30, 2019, 11:33:40 PM
I am making progress at a blinding pace.  You may hear it said that you are never to old to do something but I recommend that you take that with a rain of salt.  I had to slow down a bit and get a little better organized.  I seems that some things are not where I left them and somethings are not there at all.  On top of that, two of my local suppliers have closed up shop so Most everything has to be ordered in.  At the moment things are on hold as I wait for delivery of a set of adjustable taps from Fantasy Tools in Faraway, Minnesota but the Post Office is taking a Bad Weather day so it may be a while so as I wait, I am getting to know more about Kentucky Rye Whiskey as done by Woodford Reserve.
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on February 01, 2019, 03:23:30 AM



(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4908/46891647172_76b41f5385_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2erDX2o)Conrod l0005 (https://flic.kr/p/2erDX2o) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr


I really have been working on this project but have not been very good at showing the results.  I did complete the side thrust plates without  incident by following Stew's work plan as much as possible.  I also made the crank arms but will not complete the crankshaft until I make the eccentrics and the bearing stands.

The next major undertaking has been the connecting rods and they have presented some unusual challenges.  I looked at Stew's version and at the version built by Lesmo and detailed in his very thorough build as well as looking at the plans published by Julius but I have decided to take a more simple approach that is a little more like the original in its use of split bearing blocks for both ends.  I am not sure what this type of bearing is called but it is just two brass plates are held between the plain end of the rod and a retainer plate on the outer end. 

In the original there is a "big end" and a "small end" but on my version both ends are the same.  My method of creating the rod section is one that has been kicking around in my head for years but never built.  It actually starts out as a "connecting rod" but is normally used to connect two large timbers.  It is actually a 60d spike.  The shank is .375" diameter and is 10" long with a head formed on one end and a diamond point on the other.  When the head and point are removed there is a nice bright mild steel rod that machines like butter.  The the two ends which form Ts are made from the same spike and fitted and pinned to a tenon turned on the main shank.  I tried several methods of fitting the ends to the shank which failed badly before working out he pinned tenon design.  I tried a threaded tenon and also a screw through the end plate into the shank but neither were satisfactory in terms of fit or strength.

After the ends are fitted, the assembly is milled flat on both sides, resulting in a 1/4" thick finished connecting rod.  The bearing plates will be fastened with proper studs and nuts.

I am going to post this now and provide more detail tomorrow if you are interested.  Its getting late and my battery is running low.

Jerry
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on February 01, 2019, 01:00:41 PM
Continued from above.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4818/46891646762_b4b047ec9e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2erDWUj)Conrod l0001 (https://flic.kr/p/2erDWUj) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr

These are the end plates, ready for milling.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4841/46219302664_24953be64d_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2dqf1qG)Conrod l0002 (https://flic.kr/p/2dqf1qG) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr

Here they are milled flat to .200" thick.  They have been drilled and tapped for the studs.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7917/46891647342_841d251f35_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2erDX5j)Conrod l0003 (https://flic.kr/p/2erDX5j) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr

And here being pinned to the shank.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7811/46943875021_f0b58f68f0_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2ewgCxx)Conrod l0004 (https://flic.kr/p/2ewgCxx) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr

And here the shank with end plates milled to .25" thick.

Jerry
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: crueby on February 01, 2019, 01:01:53 PM
Great work - watching along!
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on February 05, 2019, 01:54:23 AM


Hi, Chris,  glad to see you are watching.  I'm not sure how much interest there is because my posting has been very erratic.


I begin work on the bearing stands.  For this part I will follow the design of the original which uses stands that are seperate from the stand that holds the slide bearings blocks for the side plates.  One reason is because it better sits the material that I have on hand.  Stew Hart's design combines these two items and that may be an excellent design but I am trying to avoid buying material where possible.


I will also follow the original design to the extent that the bearing retainer split is at an angle (I estimate 30 deg) from horizontal.  I have seen this style on other engines, both steam and IC, and there may be a name for it.  I have my opinion as to why it was done that way but other opinions would be welcome.  I am thinking that it has something to do with making it easier to service the bearings or to remove/replace the shaft.

Here is my start.  Marked out and with two 1/4" holes to ease the transition between base and riser.  The small pip above them is the location of the shaft center.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4875/40023087003_edd9903ec6_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/23YGMoc)BearingStand l0001 (https://flic.kr/p/23YGMoc) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr

My markup fluid is just MagicMarker which I seem to remember seeing a question on another thread about its permanence and finger stains. I avoid these problems by giving the part a quick 2 or 3 second pass with a small butane torch to flash off the solvent. No more red fingers.

Here are three bearing stands, marked and drilled, ready for the next step.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4898/32046431007_dc8ddeca81_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QPQksx)BearingStand l0002 (https://flic.kr/p/QPQksx) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr

The notches on the top edge are because this material came from the scrap box and they will not interfere with the finished profile.  I will finish the profile tomorrow and hopefully show finished parts tomorrow evening

Jerry

Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: crueby on February 05, 2019, 01:59:03 AM
I figured the angle was so that the primary pressure back on the bearings was not directly on the split in them, but that is just a guess.
 :popcorn:
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: MJM460 on February 05, 2019, 06:37:17 AM
Hi Captain,

I am watching too.  A very interesting engine layout and always interesting to see how others set things up.



MJM460

Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: sbwhart on February 05, 2019, 07:51:23 AM
I'm following you

To add to the debate about the bearing stand

"I will also follow the original design to the extent that the bearing retainer split is at an angle (I estimate 30 deg) from horizontal.  I have seen this style on other engines, both steam and IC, and there may be a name for it.  I have my opinion as to why it was done that way but other opinions would be welcome.  I am thinking that it has something to do with making it easier to service the bearings or to remove/replace the shaft."

I drew it up level just to simplify things:- they mounted them at an angle so the the split line would not take the the thrust from the crank shaft as this would accelerate the wear rate, hope this makes sense.

Stew
 
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on February 07, 2019, 02:14:27 AM
I think that you are right, Chris and Stew, about not working directly against the bearing split by slanting the mounting stand.  I had a thought that if it were every necessary to remove the crankshaft while the engine is mounted on the wall, with the slanted arrangement it would be possible to remove all of the bearing caps without having the crankshaft fall out.  Make it easier to put it back too.


Your horizontal design does simplify the fabrication and taking it a step further and combining the bearing stand with the support bracket is also  good idea. That seems like something the original design could have benefitted from.


Putting a slant on things made it useful to make a wedge triangle for support.  I should have done it a long time ago.  I should also make a 45 deg one as well.


(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4910/32070253287_dbe1a2a94b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QRWqZv)finished stand l0004 (https://flic.kr/p/QRWqZv) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr


It makes setting up for milling the 30 and 60 degree faces on the stands.


(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4812/32070253207_7d63541b52_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QRWqY8)finished stand l0006 (https://flic.kr/p/QRWqY8) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr


(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4858/47011473931_1b34c6d545_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eCf6kZ)finished stand l0007 (https://flic.kr/p/2eCf6kZ) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr


(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4902/32070253157_2827d27520_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QRWqXg)finished stand l0008 (https://flic.kr/p/QRWqXg) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr


My plan had been to profile the bearing cap along with the stand and then saw them apart before drilling for the bearing.  All I can say is that if you ever find yourself milling to a line, be sure that you know which line is your target.  I didn't so I had to take the top off of all of the stands and super glue a top in place.  That may have been a better plan anyway.  This shot is sawing a 3/8" square of another piece of scrap to make the tops.


(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7906/32070253047_d4212e9961_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QRWqVn)finished stand l0009 (https://flic.kr/p/QRWqVn) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr


You might take a look at my one tooth slitting saw blade that I made from a 48 tooth one,  The fine tooth version was not very effective at clearing the chips it made and was forever binding in the cut.  I ground away most of the teeth and increased the depth of the gullets.  I had intended to make an eight tooth version but since I was working freehand, it seems that only one or maybe two teeth actually cut.  No problem. the other teeth help clear the chips.  It is a very fine kerf and on aluminum it does very occasionally bind in the cut but the finish is very smooth.


Tops fitted, superglued and screwed down before locating and drilling for the bearing.


(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7855/32070252947_e671fd5a87_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QRWqTD)finished stand l0010 (https://flic.kr/p/QRWqTD) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr


All three stands, rather roughly shaped and with caps fitted and screwed on.


(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7817/32070252827_82516ff109_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QRWqRz)finished stand l0011 (https://flic.kr/p/QRWqRz) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr


Its getting late but I couldn't help setting up a few family shots to see if it was going in the right direction,


(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7850/32070252707_ee9a0a4cd5_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QRWqPv)finished stand l0012 (https://flic.kr/p/QRWqPv) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr




(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7850/32070252707_ee9a0a4cd5_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QRWqPv)finished stand l0012 (https://flic.kr/p/QRWqPv) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr


(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7839/32070252397_578a89b288_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QRWqJa)finished stand l0014 (https://flic.kr/p/QRWqJa) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr


(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4907/32070251947_93f1560fae_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/QRWqAp)finished stand l0015 (https://flic.kr/p/QRWqAp) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr


I am beginning to think that this excersize might actually produce a real engine.


Jerry





Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: crueby on February 07, 2019, 02:30:47 AM
Thats all looking great, going to be a grand engine.


 :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on February 08, 2019, 01:15:48 AM
Todays efforts resulted in a better locking bearing stand. This is how I had designed it in Alibre' but you don't have to worry about how to hold the part for final profiling and fillet blending.  I only got one done but the other two will be easier.


(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4872/46108026535_01e9fc2086_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2dfpFUK)fettled standl0003 (https://flic.kr/p/2dfpFUK) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr


Jerry


Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: steamer on February 08, 2019, 01:49:29 AM
That looks the part Jerry!....That looks tricky, but I can think of a couple of cunning schemes to hold it....

Did you ream the hole?

Dave
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on February 08, 2019, 12:18:25 PM


Dave


I should have thought to get some pictures but at the time, I was too absorbed by the problem and too aware of the consequence of failure to pick up a camera.  The hole has not been reamed and was used help in holding.  One of the concerns was keeping the cap registry while the sides we milled to thickness.  The bolts are not enough and I don't trust superglue under the impact of milling so I clamped down on a slug of 3/8" rod.  The rod was also used as a pivot to get the top radius. The bore will have brass or bronze bushings which will be reamed in place.


Jerry


Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: steamer on February 08, 2019, 12:23:20 PM


Dave


I should have thought to get some pictures but at the time, I was too absorbed by the problem and too aware of the consequence of failure to pick up a camera.  The hole has not been reamed and was used help in holding.  One of the concerns was keeping the cap registry while the sides we milled to thickness.  The bolts are not enough and I don't trust superglue under the impact of milling so I clamped down on a slug of 3/8" rod.  The rod was also used as a pivot to get the top radius. The bore will have brass or bronze bushings which will be reamed in place.


Jerry

Sounds good Jerry!    Yeah I get the "pucker moment can't take a picture right now ....glad I'm not the only one.     It's coming along great!

Dave
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on February 23, 2019, 01:28:52 AM
More to report.  I have been putting in some time to get this going and I have been following the mantra of my uncle Ralph who often said "measure if you have to, keep cutting till it fits, and don't be afraid to start over."  Uncle Ralph was a perfectionist of a different order.  He had a reputation as the best Rolls Royce mechanic  between NYC and Miami and had a customer following in the 1920's during the seasonal north/south migration of wealthy owners.


He chewed tobacco but also had his tongue in his cheek most of the time. I try to be a little more careful and have not had many do-overs but I have modified the design a few times to more closely match my work.  I haven't posted much, partly because my couch time is mostly taken up following the really great works in progress and partly because what I have been doing is pretty commonplace milling aluminum bar stock.  I did get into the brass recently but nothing out of the ordinary. 


Yesterday, I did get into something a little bit different so I thought I would post some pictures.  There is not very much different that you can do with eccentric followers but I will try.  These will be cut on the bias, a 30 deg slant, unlike the original that uses a typical 90 deg dividing line.  There are two practical reasons for this.


The first reason is because the location of the valves, that angle down to the crankshaft, the bottom stud or bolt is difficult to see or reach,  Using the bias cut design makes both of the studs point up at a 15 deg angle for easy service and assembly.


The second reason is that it is common to provide an oil hole in the follower and that can be done much more easily with no interference with the top joint and the oil hold is functional, whether the engine is mounted level or vertical. There is slightly less waste material as well.


I'm going to post this now and return with pictures in 30 min
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on February 23, 2019, 02:41:58 AM
It didn't take 30 mins. but the dogs came over with an urgent plea to be let out and I hate to leave an unfinished post open,


The first step is to get a piece of 1/8" brass,  1" x 1.5" centered up.  I drilled a small hole which will be used as a positioning aid later:


(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7834/47176508961_0e660fa526_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eSPWvx)EccFollowerl0001 (https://flic.kr/p/2eSPWvx) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr

Then three corners are nibbed out which could be done with an end mill but since I'm going to be using a slitting saw soon to split the blank, I decided to use it for this as well.  Also quieter and less swarf with the saw.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7836/47176507341_bf92478b90_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eSPW2B)EccFollowerl0009 (https://flic.kr/p/2eSPW2B) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7836/47176507341_bf92478b90_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eSPW2B)EccFollowerl0009 (https://flic.kr/p/2eSPW2B) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr

The fourth corner is cut at an angle, also using the saw.  This will provide a face for the arm.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7885/40211746143_41302219ed_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24gnHaZ)EccFollowerl0010 (https://flic.kr/p/24gnHaZ) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7820/40211745073_5f511d0383_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24gnGRx)EccFollowerl0011 (https://flic.kr/p/24gnGRx) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr

Look carefully at his picture,  It is a 7/32" hole, drilled in the edge of a 1/8" plate.  The drill bit that I used is a bit of an odd-ball design by Dewalt.  It has a small pilot tip followed by the body of the bit at full diameter with cutting edges at 90 deg to the axis, almost like a Forstner Bit but with a pilot drill tip instead of a tapered wood screw tip and without the grain shearing knives at the perimeter.  It works very well in aluminum and brass but I will stick with the standard tip for steel.  In this case, I have used it without drilling a pilot hole first and the breakouts on the sides are very clean and there was no evidence of wandering.  The hole is only .25" deep.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7879/47176508111_49d6c4e003_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eSPWfT)EccFollowerl0012 (https://flic.kr/p/2eSPWfT) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr

Holes drilled and tapped #2-56 for clamp bolts/studs.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7879/47176508111_49d6c4e003_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eSPWfT)EccFollowerl0012 (https://flic.kr/p/2eSPWfT) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7890/47176507861_29a81cfd89_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eSPWbz)EccFollowerl0014 (https://flic.kr/p/2eSPWbz) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr

And then split down the middle with a slitting saw.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7924/47176507191_0cd3ed7f92_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eSPVZ2)EccFollowerl0015 (https://flic.kr/p/2eSPVZ2) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr

Now it is just a matter of screwing the halves together, drilling the center to .625", and profiling the outer edge to .700"

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7923/40211745713_09ba833bca_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24gnH3z)EccFollowerl0016 (https://flic.kr/p/24gnH3z) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr

And here it is at 5/8" after first going 1/4", and 1/2" to prevent grabbing of the cutting edge by the thin material.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7886/47176507661_5eb862928b_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eSPW88)EccFollowerl0018 (https://flic.kr/p/2eSPW88) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr

This is a poor quality picture but you can now see the purpose of the big hole in the small plate edge.  It makes a good looking joint as well as a very strong joint.  It is fairly easy to turn a force fit tenon on a 1/4" bar.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7911/47176506911_3cecd04743_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2eSPVUc)EccFollowerl0019 (https://flic.kr/p/2eSPVUc) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr

The rod is then profiled and the clevis hoe drilled.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7827/33305667608_0d2ed3fa20_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SK7fCq)ecc follower arml0001 (https://flic.kr/p/SK7fCq) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7857/46266664475_e58b0b6a0c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2duqKrD)ecc follower arml0002 (https://flic.kr/p/2duqKrD) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr

I made two of these of course but only photographed one.  Then I turned the eccentrics to fit the followers.  I will hold off on drilling the eccentric offset for now.  Only a few more parts now and the parts crew will be finished.  It may be time to put the assembly crew on alert.

Jerry
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on February 23, 2019, 02:55:18 AM
I am really disturbed. I spent a good amount of time writing a detailed description of the above photographs that should have appeared between  each pictures and none of the interspersed text got posted.  Rats!!!


Oh well, you guys are smart, you will figure it out.  Ask questions if it is not clear what is going on.  I don't have the energy to go back and try to edit it tonight.  Maybe tomorrow after my meds kick in.


Jerry
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: crueby on February 23, 2019, 03:13:19 AM
I really like the design of that. Will the arm from the follower be silver soldered in place?
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Jo on February 23, 2019, 08:28:32 AM
I am really disturbed. I spent a good amount of time writing a detailed description of the above photographs that should have appeared between  each pictures and none of the interspersed text got posted.  Rats!!!


All fixed  ;)

Jo
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on February 23, 2019, 02:18:58 PM
Jo, thanks for the fix.  Where did I go wrong? Did I exceed some limit?
 
Chris, thanks for the comment.  The slanted part is not an original design concept.  I first saw it on this forum in photographs of a beam engine in a museum but I can't recall anything more specific.  It is also useful where the crankshaft is close to the base. 


The big hole in the edge may be an original concept.  I don't remember ever seeing it anywhere but who knows?  All of our ideas are the result of accumulated exposure to other ideas.  I had first thought of milling a slot on the end of the arm but my 1/8" end mill produced a slightly oversize slot and the fit was not adjustable.  I can't adjust the size of the hole that the drill bit makes but turning a tight fitting tenon is easy.  The curve at each side of the slot provides a very stable connection.  The fit is so tight that adjusting the angle of the rod to get the pivot hole in line with the eccentric bore required the use of a fair amount of force.  Silver solder not in my skill set.  Soft solder may be used mostly for the cosmetic of blending the exposed end of the rod.  If I use threaded rod for the stud (I will) the end of the stud adjacent to the arm can be used as a set screw to clamp the end of the rod.




(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7803/46272125535_5af11eb034_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2duUJPR)EccFollowerl0019 (https://flic.kr/p/2duUJPR) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr


Jerry
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Jo on February 23, 2019, 04:52:12 PM
Jo, thanks for the fix.  Where did I go wrong? Did I exceed some limit?

For some reason your post had some odd HTML code in it  :headscratch: I can only think it was picked up when you put your links in to the photos and where the HTML code had not been 'closed' our site assumed it had to be sent to the photo hosting site as part of the image insertion request... All very odd   :zap:

Jo
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on February 28, 2019, 01:45:48 PM
Having completed the eccentrics, I could begin to assemble the crankshaft.  I have never used a crankshaft this long.  It is 4" between the outer bearings with a third bearing in the middle so it must be STRAIGHT!  The piece of TGP steel shaft that has been lying in my storage for over two years, that I intended for this job is not.  It looks pretty good until th e bearing caps are fitted.


Is it possible to straighten this shaft that measures about .010" out in the center of 5" length?
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on March 04, 2019, 03:14:03 AM
Well it is apparently not possible to straighten a shaft like this one or at least not easy.  All of my efforts just made it worse so I will take another approach.  I could order another shaft but part of the purpose of this project is to use stuff that I have on hand so I will make one.  I have a bunch of 3/8" mild steel rod with a head on one end and a point on the other ( 60d nail ) that I have used for other parts so why not for the shaft?


I don't know how straight it is but won't the process of turning it in the lathe take care of that?  Well not on the first attempt.  I know that I should set up between centers instead of driving it with the three jaw but if i'm going to do this from one setup whats the difference?  I'm going to cut off the short piece at the chuck end anyway so the part will be spinning on the spindle axis anyway.  I did center drill the tailstock end and set it up on the ball bearing center.


Well, here is the problem.  I used a freshly sharpened tool bit but the material is relatively soft, and even using a conservative feed, the force on the cut was hard to keep even.  It would go along smoothly, turning up a nice, even curly chip and then it would dig in a bit, causing the stock to deflect upwards before the cutting edge would break out and continue cutting evenly.  Of course the rising stock is more of a problem in the middle of the rod than it is at either end and even if the bit wasn't digging in and jumping, just the cutting pressure of the normal cut was causing the rod to deflect upwards and change the effective radius of the part.  Scrap one part.


My analysis was that the 3-jaw was the problem.  Not because it is not perfectly centered but because it gripped to hard. When the bit digs in, the torque to keep turning the rod goes way up and it is that torque that causes the rod to deflect upwards.  What if the rod just stalled when the torque got too high?  My solution was to take another short length of nail, Put it in the chuck, and turn a point on it to match the angle of the center drill hole.   The rod is set up between two centers.  A hard one on the tail end and a soft one in the 3-jaw.  The only torque turning the rod is provided by the friction  of the soft point in a center drilled hole.  If the torque load gets too high, the part will just stop turning.  Un-believably, it worked.  No upward deflection.  Occasional stalls but one I got the feed rate and depth of cut worked out, it went smoothly and I got a six inch long shaft with only about .002" difference over the whole length.   By the way,  the optimum DOC was about .004" and the feed very damned slow.  But it is done. It only took about 25 passes and was boring as hell and you would not enjoy a picture of me asleep at the lathe.  But I caan now proceed with the crankshaft.


I got the two throws assembled, pinned and trimmed but before pinning them on the shaft, I had to do one more trial assemble to check clearances.  Its pretty damned close in there. 


This is really a simple project.  I'm just making it complicated by thinking about it to much. Here are some pics of the last trial assembly.


(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7871/46359342435_400c6c2d74_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2dCBKnv)clearaancesl0001 (https://flic.kr/p/2dCBKnv) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr


And this one too


(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7819/40309221753_746099d747_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24pZigX)clearaancesl0006 (https://flic.kr/p/24pZigX) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr




(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7889/40309221883_5f079b6d06_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24pZijc)clearaancesl0004 (https://flic.kr/p/24pZijc) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr




Jerry
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Gas_mantle on March 04, 2019, 08:46:56 AM
Its coming along nicely Jerry  :)
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on March 22, 2019, 03:36:52 AM
It has been several weeks since I have posted any progress but progress has been made.  I believe that I have completed all of the mechanical parts.  There remains plenty of work on the ancillary parts such as the flywheels and of course the piping, and of course all of the fiddly stuff to make it run smoothly and then the cosmetic work to make it look nice.


I have spent the last several days assembling all of the parts into a single assembly with the goal of seeing if it will go 'round and 'round without obstruction and interference.  It took several attempts.  Most of the moving components fit together but the height of some of the fasteners had not been allowed for in my planning.  The only major screw up was that I had somehow misread a dimension and made the crank throws too long by .010" which caused only a small correction to the piston thickness but with an overcrank design it created all sorts of havoc in the relationship between the length of the connecting rods and the return thrust plates.  I was able to recover from this near disaster with some modification of the conrod  bearings.


Here it is, all put together:


(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7927/40472773403_167196830a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24ErxtZ)Motion l0006 (https://flic.kr/p/24ErxtZ) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr


I would like to thank Stew Hart for bringing this offbeat engine to our attention with his postings here and on his other forum.  I would also like to thank him for failing to mention what a nightmare it is assembling this thing and not mentioning that if  the builder was a little careless or forgetful that he would find himself repeating the process more times than he wanted too. Thanks, Stew.  I see now that I will repeat the process many more times before this is over.


It does go 'round and 'round!  I am going to attempt to post a short video here but as I have not used Flicker for videos, its a gamble.  If it doesn't come through, I will work on it tomorrow.


(https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/33562764268_e524051a0e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/T8PWvs)MVI_2229 (https://flic.kr/p/T8PWvs) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr


Thats all for now.


Jerry
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: sbwhart on March 22, 2019, 07:23:18 AM
The Video worked for me Jerry

Quote :- I would like to thank Stew Hart for bringing this offbeat engine to our attention with his postings here and on his other forum.  I would also like to thank him for failing to mention what a nightmare it is assembling this thing and not mentioning that if  the builder was a little careless or forgetful that he would find himself repeating the process more times than he wanted too. Thanks, Stew.  I see now that I will repeat the process many more times before this is over.

You have to keep some issues to your self otherwise you make things to easy and there's is no challenge  :mischief: :mischief: :mischief:

Great work Jerry you'll forget all the trials and tribulations when you have it up and running.

Stew
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Jo on March 22, 2019, 08:23:49 AM
I would also like to thank him for failing to mention what a nightmare it is assembling this thing and not mentioning that if  the builder was a little careless or forgetful that he would find himself repeating the process more times than he wanted too. Thanks, Stew.  I see now that I will repeat the process many more times before this is over.
Quote
You have to keep some issues to your self otherwise you make things to easy and there's is no challenge  :mischief: :mischief: :mischief:

I could mention a few other models that are like that to put together :facepalm2:

Jo
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on March 22, 2019, 01:52:44 PM

Quote :- I would like to thank Stew Hart for bringing this offbeat engine to our attention with his postings here and on his other forum.  I would also like to thank him for failing to mention what a nightmare it is assembling this thing and not mentioning that if  the builder was a little careless or forgetful that he would find himself repeating the process more times than he wanted too. Thanks, Stew.  I see now that I will repeat the process many more times before this is over.

You have to keep some issues to your self otherwise you make things to easy and there's is no challenge  :mischief: :mischief: :mischief:

Great work Jerry you'll forget all the trials and tribulations when you have it up and running.

Stew



There is always the challenge and maybe that's why we do these things.  One of the things that attracted me to this engine is that none of the individual parts seemed beyond my ability or my equipment.  Individually they a very straight forward. Had you made it sound too difficult, I might never have started.


There are a number of non scale fasteners on the engine now that will be replaced later.  Some are there because that's all I have but three of them are worth noting.  The nuts that secure the bearing caps were removed and replaced so many times that I had to find an easier and quicker way. Look closely and you will see rising from the bearing caps, a short rod.  These are special bolts, threaded #2-56 on one end that are easy enough to install finger tight.  On the top end is a very crude hex formed by three whacks with hammer and anvil that fit a 3/16" nut driver for making it tight.  These will be replaced on the model but I will keep them in the box because I think they will be useful.  One of the problems with age is loss of dexterity and loss of feeling in the tips of my fingers.  These thing are a great help for a temporary fit.
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Brian Rupnow on March 23, 2019, 12:08:56 AM
Jerry--Your model is very impressive. I built a single cylinder version of that engine back when Stu published the plans.---Brian
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on March 23, 2019, 01:06:08 PM
Jerry--Your model is very impressive. I built a single cylinder version of that engine back when Stu published the plans.---Brian


Thanks, Brian.  I also built a couple of single cylinder versions when I first saw Stew's model.  They were very simple engines using Elmer style components.  The mechanism is simple, intriguing, with many subtle complications. 


Jerry
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on April 16, 2019, 05:51:45 AM

It is very late. It took me all evenibg to get this video uploadwd to Flickr.  I will write a description In the morning.


(https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/40652860863_d551a89b56_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/24Wmxdc)IMG_0009 (https://flic.kr/p/24Wmxdc) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: sbwhart on April 16, 2019, 06:49:02 AM
Ho that,s cheating Jerry electric power tut tut  >:D

Looking good though can't wait to see the air run.

As an aside the boss and I visited Quarry Bank last week, just to have a look around after their refurbishment, to see what had changed all the steam engines and mill machinery were there including the over crank. But it wasn't running so I made enquiries why not,  the answer I got was:- the air compressor they use to power it kept breaking down so they removed it and have no plans to replace it, which is a great pity because its such a nice engine to see running, without movement its just a piece of dead metal.

Stew
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on April 16, 2019, 02:52:23 PM

Hi Stew

I have to agree with the museum. An air compressor is a noisy machine and the cheap ones such as mine are unbearable and totally out of character of the quiet majesty of steam.  Maybe they could drive the line shaft with an electric motor and backdrive the engine from the shaft, but as you said, that would be cheating. I have finally found a way to put mine out of the shop so when I get this engine ready to run, it won't be so intrusive.  The dogs have outgrown that old doghouse anyway.


The exercise with the with the Unimat driver is more than show off. The Unimat is so quiet, it emphasizes all of the little clicks and ticks of the mechanism that come from a loose screw or a poor fit.  An example that has not been fixed is a loose slide bearing on the second support in.  You can see the brass bearing move each way as the slide changes direction at BDC.


A few weeks ago, as I was beginning to assemble the engine parts, I posted the comment that I had found a dimension error in the length of the crank arms.  They were too long by .010" but I was confident that I would be able to work around it by making adjustments elsewhere.  FALSE CONFIDENCE.  I got so fed up with making adjustments EVERYWHERE that I bit the bullet and remade the crankshaft to the correct dimension.  Wasted more than a week of frustration.


I think that I am now on the right track. The mechanism now turns smoothly and freely. One feature of the cheap speed control I am driving the Unimat with is that at low speed it is also very low power so it has been a help in identifying tight spots in the rotation.


There is of course lots more to do but I have had to start allocating more time to grass mowing and cooking.  My wife, Katherine, has always been in charge of the kitchen, but her hand tremors have made the use of a kitchen knife a frightening sight. I know she is not shaking the knife at me but you never know for sure. We eat a lot of vegetable and veggies need peeling and chopping so I am now chief cook. She is still a big part of the process since I have to ask her where everything is.  Cooking can be fun and it means that I get an extra glass of wine.
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: crueby on April 16, 2019, 03:07:48 PM
Love the motion on the model, well done!
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: kvom on April 16, 2019, 03:37:07 PM
By "crank arms" do you mean the throw?
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on April 16, 2019, 04:51:50 PM
By "crank arms" do you mean the throw?


Yes! Words fail me from time to time.
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Gas_mantle on April 16, 2019, 05:34:28 PM
Look great Gerry, can't wait to see the finished model in action.

I've always like the look of these overcrank engines, there seems to be a lot going on which makes them interesting to watch  :)
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on May 19, 2019, 10:34:04 PM
Here is a first attempt to run on air.  It is very leaky, no packing on the piston or valve rod and the air supply is disgraceful but I havent posted in such a long period of time, I thought You might want to see some evidence of life.


Jerry


t9BdoZWuPPE
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Brian Rupnow on May 20, 2019, 01:36:53 AM
Jerry--that looks great. I built a single cylinder unit based on Stew Hart's drawings, and it gets a lot of attention when people come to visit my office/shop.---Brian
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: crueby on May 20, 2019, 02:28:23 AM
Even without the packing its a great motion. Excellent progress.   :popcorn: :popcorn:
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Kim on May 20, 2019, 05:55:58 AM
Jerry, that's a really neat engine and it runs great! That second fly wheel is pretty interesting too :)

Kim
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: sbwhart on May 20, 2019, 06:30:39 AM
Excellent work Jerry  :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:

Stew
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on May 20, 2019, 01:17:50 PM
Thanks for the kind comments.  Its all about the motion isn't it?  There are some engines that capture your interest  and this is one of them.  When I first saw Stew's model years ago, I was hooked.  I built two smaller single cylinder versions back then, one horizontal and one vertical, relying heavily on Elmer's style cylinders but I knew that the twin cylinder would be a different challenge.  It still has a long way to go.


There will be a proper flywheel.  I have two  pieces of steel pipe that I have set aside for flywheels. One too small at 4' and one too big at 7 1/2" but until then, during testing I rely on my big brass baton.  As silly as it may look, it provides a large mass and does not get in the way of clumsy fingers making timing adjustments.


If you started watching at the beginning, your popcorn must be stale by now but it's not going to move any faster so you might want to switch to trail mix.


Jerry
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: sbwhart on May 21, 2019, 07:05:34 AM
Hi Jerry

I get my fly wheels from a firm in the UK, and they now stock part finished castings.

 https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=casting&PN=STEAM-ENGINE-7--FLYWHEEL-MACHINED-CASTING-COMPATIBLE-WITH-STUART-298379%2ehtml#SID=227

I think they will deliver to the US

Stew
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on May 28, 2019, 04:25:39 AM
Thanks for the link for a machined flywheel, Stew, but I would rather find a way to build one for this engine myself.  Your original build thread gave a good method and I have considered following your plan.


I have been fiddling with the finer points of timing and decided that I must have not been thinking very clearly or was just plain lazy or sloppy when I made the steam chest and valves so I did it over.  New valve plate, new valve bodies, and new valve rods.  I also redid the cover and the mounting of the inlet piping. Nothing unique, just being a little more accurate.  Then I cut gaskets for the cylinder heads and the valve chest.


I then borrowed a more appropriate flywheel from another engine  and started fine tuning the timing.  I got it to running very smoothly and slowly.  There is plenty more to do but it was getting late in the day so I just decided to hang it up!


https://youtu.be/SGy_EfuSZOg (https://youtu.be/SGy_EfuSZOg)




It is a wall engine after all.
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: crueby on May 28, 2019, 01:27:58 PM
That's running great! Love it on the wall too.
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: b.lindsey on May 28, 2019, 02:34:52 PM
Looks great to me in any orientation :)  Well done Captain  :ThumbsUp:

Bill
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: ShopShoe on May 28, 2019, 03:17:51 PM
I like that. Definitely there is some interesting action to look at there.

Gotta love it running slowly.

ShopShoe
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: crueby on May 28, 2019, 06:19:43 PM
Hi Jerry

I get my fly wheels from a firm in the UK, and they now stock part finished castings.

 https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=casting&PN=STEAM-ENGINE-7--FLYWHEEL-MACHINED-CASTING-COMPATIBLE-WITH-STUART-298379%2ehtml#SID=227 (https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=casting&PN=STEAM-ENGINE-7--FLYWHEEL-MACHINED-CASTING-COMPATIBLE-WITH-STUART-298379%2ehtml#SID=227)

I think they will deliver to the US

Stew
Just went and checked out RDG, pretty nice selection, and yes they will ship to US.
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on May 28, 2019, 09:37:02 PM
That knock that is so loud can barely be heard over the compressor when you are in the same room. Now I have two things to check out. Engine knock and compressor noise. I have another compressor that needs a new pump to tank hose.
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on June 03, 2019, 04:33:04 AM



I have gotten my other compressor working and I now have a reliable supply of 120 psi air.  I also dug through some drawers and came up with a bunch of control valves that I had made some years ago.  I found one of appropriate size for this engine and all it needs is a couple of transition pieces and it will look OK. 


Here is a view of the engine from a different viewpoint showing it running under the control of the valve and running smoothly at low speed.

https://youtu.be/BfhMy0f8rAM (https://youtu.be/BfhMy0f8rAM)


This view shows a part of the model that needs a complete re-work.  The slide bearings and stands are badly out of character for the time period.  None of the photos that I have seen of this engine give a clear view of the stands.  Lighting and color make it very hard to see the actual shape and style of the stands but I am pretty sure that they weren't cobbled together from aluminum angle bar. They were probably cast iron and likely did not include brass slides but I have no idea of the shape. Any suggestions?


Jerry


Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: sbwhart on June 03, 2019, 07:24:24 AM
Gerry

The slide bearings are nothing more complicated than how you have built them simple cast angle brackets:- all you have to do is file all the sharp edges back with nice rads so that they look like cast iron parts.

Stew
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on June 03, 2019, 01:40:41 PM
Stew


Thanks for the help.  A little bit of filing is within my abilities. Then I'll see if a little bit of paint helps to bring it together.


Jerry
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: b.lindsey on June 03, 2019, 03:09:36 PM
It really is running smoothly Jerry even at low speed. Love all the motion too as others have noted already.  Well done.

Bill
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on June 07, 2019, 10:52:22 PM
I think I have fiddled with this enough for a while.  I took Stew's advice and eased the edges of the slide bearing stands and I think it made a big difference.  I have more or less finished with the piping. The last thing that I have added is a quick connector for the air line. I really hate trying to push a plastic tube onto an engine to run it.  More than once, I have knocked an engine of it's stand or turned on the compressor and watched the tube blow off. The last frames of his video show my first attempt at a quick connector.  I will refine this a bit for the next version but it does work well.  There is another attempt using a wire clip to hold a connection together.  You can see the clip where the pipe joins the valve at the top of the engine.  I don't think I will try to make that one work out.


(https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/48021225522_deb1ac8dec_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gatkjb)MVI_2288 (https://flic.kr/p/2gatkjb) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr


https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/48021225522/in/dateposted/ (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/48021225522/in/dateposted/)


This is probably the last view I will post for a  while.  It is now time to start preparations for painting.  Black is nice but it has been done. I think I am favoring a very dark red if I can find it in a spray can.  A very deep green could work too.
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: crueby on June 07, 2019, 11:30:01 PM
The engine is running very well, like that connector too. Is there an o ring or something inside?
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on June 08, 2019, 12:10:37 AM
The engine is running very well, like that connector too. Is there an o ring or something inside?


Chris



There is no O ring in the connector.  I thought about it but I couldn't put my finger on one the fight size.  It seems to hold air well, at least up to 50 psi which is the max I get out of my compressor at the moment.  This one is made from stock brass tubing so the fit is very good.


Jerry
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Jim Nic on June 08, 2019, 12:34:30 PM
That's looking and running nicely Jerry.  Well done.
Jim
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on June 17, 2019, 03:09:10 PM
It has been painted and I am going to wait a few days for the paint to harden before any more reassembly. What do you think of the color. Leather Brown!


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48079233172_35155fc3ff_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2gfACY5)IMG_0160 (https://flic.kr/p/2gfACY5) by captain.jerry Ginn (https://www.flickr.com/photos/140341766@N06/), on Flickr













Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: crueby on June 17, 2019, 03:12:57 PM
Great color - sets off the brass well. Maybe a deep green or red pinstripe on the flywheel or somewhere?
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Captain Jerry on June 17, 2019, 04:11:50 PM
Great color - sets off the brass well. Maybe a deep green or red pinstripe on the flywheel or somewhere?


Pin stripes are difficult with shaky hands. How about lightning bolts? Thats how the seem to come out.
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: crueby on June 17, 2019, 04:37:06 PM
Great color - sets off the brass well. Maybe a deep green or red pinstripe on the flywheel or somewhere?

Pin stripes are difficult with shaky hands. How about lightning bolts? Thats how the seem to come out.
I've used pinstripe tape with good results, easier to adjust position, and it comes in colors. Hobby shops with airplane stuff usually have it, sometimes auto parts places.
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: Ye-Ole Steam Dude on June 17, 2019, 06:21:02 PM
Hello Jerry,

The engine is beautiful and really like the color.

Have a great day,
Thomas
Title: Re: Quarry Bank Mill Engine
Post by: sbwhart on June 18, 2019, 07:27:25 AM
Looks Black to me  :Jester:

Nice Job  :ThumbsUp:

Stew