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Engine Ancillaries / Re: Cart Me Off
« Last post by Gas_mantle on Today at 07:09:53 PM »
Thanks, I'm mainly interested in steam but steadily warming to the idea of trying to make a beginner IC engine.
Engine Ancillaries / Re: Cart Me Off
« Last post by Jasonb on Today at 07:01:25 PM »
Probably somewhere in the region of 1/8 to 1/6th HP, the full size was 4HP
Chatterbox / Re: Invitational Show
« Last post by Roger B on Today at 07:01:15 PM »
Interesting thought  :ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp: I would have to look at flights and what I could carry with me  :headscratch:
Specific Engine Help / Re: hard/silver solder advice needed
« Last post by crueby on Today at 06:54:32 PM »
There needs to be just enough space between the parts for the solder to wick in - too tight a press fit and it wont go all the way through. For parts laid on top of each other, one trick is to make a couple small prick-punch marks on one surface to hold them apart just a tad. When the solder goes liquid and flows, you should be able to see it on the far side, if not adding a little more solder is fine (too much and it will blob). Best be is to heat it on the side away from where the solder is, that way the metal melts the solder, not the flame, and it flows the best. If the parts are different thicknesses, heat more on the thicker one, so they both get up to temperature evenly. Part science, part technique, part art, lots of practise, very useful skill!

Specific Engine Help / Re: hard/silver solder advice needed
« Last post by kev on Today at 06:47:28 PM »
thanks, thats what I thought and hoped to hear but I did not want to risk the parts, may well do a trial part first but is seems to flash through very easy
Specific Engine Help / Re: hard/silver solder advice needed
« Last post by Jasonb on Today at 06:43:51 PM »
The solder should wick in no problem
Specific Engine Help / hard/silver solder advice needed
« Last post by kev on Today at 06:41:39 PM »
I dont do a lot of hard/silver soldering and what I do is normally on thin boiler brass but I need to solder these chunky eccentric straps, I will clean up and machine a matching flat on the strap so will need to solder a 1/2 inch long job that is 1/4 inch thick.

If I simply coat in flux between them and lay solder along the joint will I get the full 1/4 inch penetration or should I "V" the top and feed extra solder in once the solder laid in the groove melts?

Engine Ancillaries / Re: Cart Me Off
« Last post by Gas_mantle on Today at 06:32:46 PM »
Looks great, any idea what the output power of something like that would be?

Engine Ancillaries / Re: Cart Me Off
« Last post by Jo on Today at 06:21:26 PM »
I'm just getting worried about the strength of my shed door frame as that is the 6th notch I have cut into it this year, maybe I should slow down for a while and give Jo a chance to catch up :LittleDevil:

Just be thankful that you aren't recovering from major surgery otherwise you too would find that it has had an impact and we would have been very worried if you had to go in for an elephant extraction  ::)

Jo &  :pinkelephant:
Vehicles & Models / Re: Chris's Marion 91 Steam Shovel
« Last post by crueby on Today at 06:21:09 PM »
As mentioned yesterday, this morning I turned the drum around and gripped it by the end post to finish turning the drum recess. To avoid any risk of deforming the post when tightening the chuck, I put in a short piece of 1/2" bar at that end. The second end was first roughed in with left to right passes, going shorter the farther it went in:

Interesting to see how much the brass oxidised overnight on the left side, compared to the fresh cuts on the right. If only Don was here to keep it polished up. But, then he would drown me in the swamp when I painted it!
Then made what I call etcha-sketch passes from the rim into the center, turning both handwheels to form the curve in a couple of passes (this could also have been done with a curved form tool, but it would have taken a lot longer to grind one up than to do it this way).

The shape was then gone over with a half-round file while spinning to smooth in the last tool marks, then the whole thing scrubbed with a scouring pad. Here it is with the axle blank back in:

And a shot of where it will be in the model:

Next step is to make the end plates for the drum. These are 1/4" thick x 3" diameter, and both hold in the wraps of chain and give a wide rim to be the surfaces that the clutch and brake bands ride on. Started with rough cutting them out of a larger piece of 1/4" stock, and drilling the starter hole for the center:

and widening that out with the boring head to fir the end post on the drum:

One down, one to go:

Once the second blank is ready, I will mount each on a mandrel to turn the outer rim to size.

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