Model Engine Maker

Engines => From Plans => Topic started by: Larry on May 26, 2019, 03:05:19 AM

Title: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on May 26, 2019, 03:05:19 AM
To paraphrase an old saying "I may have bitten off more than I can chew" may very well apply here but we will see where this goes. I must confess that I started this last July with a few simple parts. I did not have anything in my scrap that could be used for the block and didn't want to progress any further until I gave this a try. I ordered a piece of 12L14 from McMaster-Carr and drove over to their distribution center to pick it up. I was impressed with their facility. There are 3 excellent build logs that I know about & have studied:
Arnold's take on the MEM Corliss (Arnold b - Arnold)
Vince's version of the MEM Corliss (Vcutajar - Vince)
Chris Built-up MEM Corliss build (Crueby - Chris)

Getting started with a couple of pictures - cut the bar to approximate length allowing enough to finish the ends. Used a small face mill to square up the sides.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: crueby on May 26, 2019, 03:34:02 AM
Hi Larry,


The MEM Corliss is well worth the effort for chewing on, wonderful engine. Take it one step at a time, and you will get there. Great to see another one under way, and I will be watching along, sure to have plenty of company.


 :popcornsmall:


Chris
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: b.lindsey on May 26, 2019, 03:51:10 AM
This is great Larry. Looking forward to following along as well.

Bill
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Jo on May 26, 2019, 06:35:16 AM
Nice to see another being built.  :)

Jo
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: vcutajar on May 26, 2019, 08:26:04 AM
Hi Larry

Nice to see another MEM Corliss being built.  Will be surely following your progress as it will evoke good memories of when I did mine.

Vince
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on May 28, 2019, 03:31:01 AM
I have very little experience in using a 4 jaw chuck but decided I could get a better finish in the lathe. I centered the block as best as I could with a dial indicator. I started the center hole with about a 1/4" drill & progressed up to about 7/8"  so I could use my 3/4" boring bar. I was very well pleased with the bore except there is about .004 difference in hole diameter from end to end. Hopefully that can be worked out later with a hone or some other method.
Begin boring.
Begin boring.
Facing ends to length.
Facing ends to length.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on May 29, 2019, 04:09:51 AM
I laid out the dimensions for the steam / exhaust passage holes & the associated recess / flat surface for drilling. I do not have an angle vise so I clamped the block in my mill vise using 5 & 10 degree angle blocks & double checked with an angle meter. I then milled a flat surface, center drilled & drilled 5 passage holes.

Block marked  for steam / exhaust passage holes.
Block in vise on 5 & 10 degree angle blocks with angle meter.
Block - located "Y" dimension with edge finder, located "X" dimension using scribe pointer (Probably not the best way but I think it will work & be close enough).
Mill recess with flat surface for steam / exhaust passage holes.
Center drill for steam / exhaust passage holes.
Drill steam / exhaust passage holes.
Holes on one side complete.
View of holes from inside bore.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: crueby on May 29, 2019, 04:21:08 AM
Well done, following along...


 :popcornsmall:
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: JackPick on May 29, 2019, 06:05:53 AM
I'll be following too Larry. I'm considering this for my next build.
Cheers John
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Jim Nic on May 29, 2019, 09:47:25 AM
Nice result on the steam passages Larry.  The engine is coming along nicely.
Jim
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: b.lindsey on May 29, 2019, 03:00:44 PM
You are really coming along on that cylinder Larry. Following along here too so please keep it coming :)

Bill
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Ye-Ole Steam Dude on May 29, 2019, 07:29:25 PM
Hello Larry,

Nice work on the cylinder.

Have a great day,
Thomas
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on May 30, 2019, 02:56:49 AM
Thanks guys for the kind comments. The next few pictures show drilling, reaming & threading for valves & valve bonnets.

Drilled holes for valves.
Reamed 1/4" holes for valves.
Drilled holes for valve bonnets.
Threaded #2-56 holes for valve bonnets.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: crueby on May 30, 2019, 03:30:10 AM
Moving right along with the build, great progress.


 :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Jim Nic on May 30, 2019, 10:24:40 AM
Moving right along there Larry.
Considering the valves and bonnets, the plan calls for 2 piece valves.  I made mine in one piece, and if my memory serves me correctly, as did Vince Cutajar.  I also made a recess in the bonnet to take a small O ring seal although I'm not sure this is really necessary.
Jim



Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on June 01, 2019, 04:54:59 AM
Thanks Jim Nic for the information & pictures on the valves. You are correct - Vince & Arnold both made one piece valves. I just looked it up. I have not progressed that far but it looks like that may be the way to go. I will make note of it.

Centered block in preparation for drilling cylinder cover holes. I did not get a picture of locating cylinder cover holes but that same operation will be shown when making the cylinder covers.

Chain drilled holes in preparation for milling steam chest pockets.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: tvoght on June 01, 2019, 06:58:37 PM
I'll be following as time allows, Larry. Good progress photos & descriptions.
--Tim
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: scc on June 01, 2019, 10:30:03 PM
Me too :popcorn: enjoying every bit!           Terry
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on June 02, 2019, 03:49:58 AM
Your comments are really appreciated. I completed drilling all the remaining hole patterns & milled the steam chest pockets.

Milling steam chest pockets (3 pictures).
Block side view (top).
Block opposite side view (bottom).
Block vertical view.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: vcutajar on June 02, 2019, 04:13:21 AM
Cylinder block looking great.  That was very quick.

Vince
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: kvom on June 02, 2019, 02:40:40 PM
Holy holes batman!   :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: b.lindsey on June 02, 2019, 02:42:56 PM
Swiss cheese anyone  :o. Seriously though, it looks great Larry!!

Bill
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on June 03, 2019, 03:23:43 AM
Thanks again for the comments.  Vince, not really - those pictures of the block covered a period of 145 days - not working continuously.

I found a piece of scrap to use for the front cylinder cover. It was probably 1018 since it machined very well. I calculate my hole pattern (X & Y dimensions from center) using the co-ordinates for locating equally spaced holes in jig boring. I center the part in the mill using a CO-AX indicator & locate the holes using the DRO.

Cleaning up scrap piece to 1 5/8" diameter.
Facing end.
Drilling hole pattern (2 pictures).
Cut off.
Finished part.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on June 05, 2019, 04:26:53 AM
I used a piece of 2" diam. 1018 steel for the rear cylinder cover. I faced & turned the .625 diam.; center drilled, drilled & reamed the .25 thru hole; bored & threaded 7/16-32 which is what I happened to have. Will continue in next post.

Facing 2" diam. 1018 steel.
Center drilled & drilled .25 thru hole.
Reamed .25 center thru hole.
Bored hole for threads.
Threaded 7/16-32.
Completed thread.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Ye-Ole Steam Dude on June 05, 2019, 10:22:16 AM
Hello Larry,

Enjoying your work and following along.

Have a great day,
Thomas
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Mike Bondarczuk on June 05, 2019, 11:04:01 AM
Hi Larry,

Excellent build log so far and am enjoying the detail to attention as well as the progress.

Have downloaded the drawings and looking to see if I may build one as well in the very near future.

Mike
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on June 06, 2019, 04:38:13 AM
Finishing the rear cylinder cover. I cut off the partially machined part & chucked the .625 diam. end in a collet & then turned the 1.125 diam. This finished the machining & I centered the part in the mill vise using a CO-AX indicator, then drilled the hole pattern.

Cut off.
Turning the 1.125 diam.
Center in mill vise with CO-AX indicator.
Drill hole pattern.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: b.lindsey on June 06, 2019, 01:50:40 PM
Looking good Larry!!  Those Coax indicators a nice to use...makes centering things a breeze.

Bill
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on June 08, 2019, 03:07:40 AM
I made the steam & exhaust cover plates from a piece of 1/4" brass. After cutting to approximate length I cut the piece in half using a slitting saw (Thunk, Thunk, Thunk ). The sides & ends were milled to size and the outside edge hole pattern was drilled using the DRO to locate holes. The center 1/4" hole was drilled & reamed. The ends were milled to 1/8" leaving the 7/8" wide center section to be turned.

Cut in half with slitting saw.
Milling side to size.
Milling end to size.
Drilling outside edge hole pattern.
Drilled center 1/4" hole.
Reamed center 1/4" hole to size.
Milled each end to 1/8" leaving center section to be turned.
Partially finished steam & exhaust cover plates.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on June 08, 2019, 03:27:59 AM
I took an idea from Vince but used a different method to turn the 7/8" wide center section. I made a small fixture from some scrap aluminum, located a center hole under the mill spindle, bolted the plate to the fixture using a spacer and centered under the mill spindle. Using the boring head with a boring bar inserted opposite the normal way, I ran the mill in reverse to turn the 7/8" diameter center section. The mill was used as a lathe and I was pleased with the final result.

Scrap aluminum fixture showing locating hole, locating pin, bolt & spacer.
Fixture with cover plate clamped in place.
Fixture with cover plate bolted in place & centered under mill spindle. Boring bar is ready to turn.
Turning partially complete.
Turning complete.
Finished plates.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Kim on June 08, 2019, 05:45:22 AM
Nice work, Larry.

I thought I heard someone using a slitting saw earlier... (thunk, thunk, thunk).  :Lol:

Kim
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on June 11, 2019, 03:41:28 AM
I made the Crosshead Guide in two pieces and put them together with Loctite 609. The guide was made from a piece of 1 1/8" 12L14 round bar. It was chucked in a collet and a 1/4" pilot hole was drilled. Using a series of drills I progressed up so I could use my 3/4" boring bar to finish a 7/8" diam. hole. It was cut to length & mounted in the mill vise. The slot was cut in several operations and finished with a 5/8" end mill.

Guide is bored to 7/8" diam.
Mounted in mill vise & slot cut to 5/8" (4 pictures).
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on June 11, 2019, 03:56:27 AM
The flange was made from a piece of scrap. It was turned to size and the center hole bored to 1 1/8". It was then centered in the mill vise and the outer hole pattern was drilled using the DRO ( no pictures). The flange was cut off & faced to 1/8" thickness. The two parts were very carefully aligned & put together with Loctite 609. I would like to get a Loctite that didn't set up quite as fast.

Scrap piece chucked in 3 jaw & center hole bored to 1 1/8".
Flange is cut off.
Flange separated from scrap piece.
Flange & guide with Loctite 609.
Completed assembly.
Completed assembly.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: b.lindsey on June 11, 2019, 02:26:24 PM
More great progress Larry. Still following along with interest here.

Bill
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on June 16, 2019, 02:52:02 AM
The gland nut was made from a piece of 5/8" hex brass rod. This was turned to 7/16" and threaded 7/16-32 since that is what I had available. A center hole was drilled & reamed to .251. The part was cut off to dimension & faced leaving a 1/8" wide x 5/8" hex nut on the end. I did not get a picture of the finished part but it will be shown later.

Turned to 7/16" diameter.
Threaded with a 7/16-32 die.
Drilling center hole.
Reaming center hole to .251 for piston rod.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on June 16, 2019, 04:04:00 AM
The crosshead was made from a piece of 1" diameter brass rod turned to 7/8" (.875) diameter. The center hole was drilled 1/4" deep & threaded #10-32. It was then mounted in a collet block in the mill vise & the sides milled to 3/8" (.375) width. The center hole on the flat surface was drilled & reamed to .25 for the pin. The machined part was cut off & mounted in the mill vise & the ends milled to a finish length of 7/8" (.875).

Turn piece of 1" diameter brass rod to 7/8" (.875).
Drill center hole 1/4" deep.
Thread center hole #10-32.
Mount in collet block in mill vise & mill sides to 3/8" (.375) width.
Milling both sides to 3/8" (.375).
Drill center hole on flat surface & ream .25 for pin.
Cut off.
Mount in mill vise & finish end to 7/8" (.875) length.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: b.lindsey on June 16, 2019, 02:12:35 PM
Full steam ahead I see Larry. Always nice to see an update on this one.

Bill
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on June 27, 2019, 04:02:34 AM
The piston rod was turned from a piece of 12L14 1/4" rod. Both ends were threaded #10-32 per dimensions.

Turned from 1/4"  12L14 rod & threaded both ends #10-32

Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on June 27, 2019, 04:15:43 AM
The crosshead pin is composed of two parts - a screw and a pin both turned from a piece of 12L14  3/8" rod. Both pieces were threaded #10-32. A .040 screwdriver slot was milled in the end of each piece using a slitting saw.

Crosshead pin - two parts - turned from 12L14  3/8" rod & threaded #10-32. Screwdriver slot .040 in the end of each piece with slitting saw.

Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: b.lindsey on June 27, 2019, 03:07:50 PM
Very nice Larry, and I like seeing these smaller parts along with their respective drawings too.

Bill
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on July 01, 2019, 10:21:48 PM
CRANKSHAFT - The crank was made from a piece of 5/16" 1018 steel and milled to shape. The small end was threaded #10-32. Both ends were radiused using filing buttons. The shaft is made from a piece of 3/8" 12L14 rod. Parts will be assembled later with Loctite 609. The 3/8" shaft hole is not shown on the drawing.

Crank with filing buttons.
Crank & Shaft not yet assembled.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on July 01, 2019, 10:45:07 PM
CRANKPIN - The crankpin is turned to dimension from a piece of 12L14  1/2" rod. The end is threaded # 10-32. A .040 screwdriver slot was milled in the large end using a slitting saw.

Crankpin - finished.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: b.lindsey on July 01, 2019, 11:31:48 PM
Still looking great Larry. You are making good progress.

Bill
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: 90LX_Notch on July 01, 2019, 11:54:32 PM
Nice work Larry.

-Bob
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: kvom on July 02, 2019, 12:20:20 AM
Coming along smoothly.   :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on July 06, 2019, 05:22:45 AM
CYLINDER FOOT - The kind comments are appreciated. I plan to make the cylinder foot from 2 pieces & fasten together with screws. A piece of 3/4" scrap aluminum was cut to approximate size for the "T" sections. The pictures below will show the milling set up.

Raw material cut from 3/4" piece of scrap aluminum.
Milling surface with small face mill to square up the sides.
Milling one side of the "T" section.
Milling opposite side of the "T" section.
Finished "T" section - will cut in half.
"T" section cut in half for 2 feet - finishing ends.
Finished "T" section blanks - slot will be cut next.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: b.lindsey on July 06, 2019, 02:24:14 PM
Always good to see your updates Larry. Those look great so far.

Bill
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on July 15, 2019, 04:07:55 AM
CYLINDER FOOT (continued) - The next operation was to cut the 1" x 5/16"  opening in the "T" section. I started by using a 1/2"  2 FL end mill at full depth. Disaster almost happened - the end mill began to pull out of the collet. Fortunately I caught it when the cut was deeper than my mark. I have had this happen when cutting steel but didn't think it would happen in aluminum - but it did. I should have known better. I then changed to a 3/8" end mill and cut the depth in .050 increments. The width was cut in .025 increments. As a result the depth of one opening is .035 more than the specified .313 on the drawing. I don't think this will affect the strength although it is a slight appearance factor.

8956 - "T" section in mill vise to cut opening.
8957 - "T" section with first cut.
8959 - "T" section with first cut to correct depth.
8961 - "T" section with opening partially finished.
8962 - "T" section with opening partially finished.
8964 - "T" section with opening complete.
27242 - "T" sections with openings complete. (Note depth of openings in the 2 pieces.)
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Kim on July 15, 2019, 05:41:54 AM
Those look very nice, Larry!

Interesting on the mill pulling out of the collet.  Do other people have this problem?  The only time I ever experiences something like that was when I forgot to tighten the collet!  I had it finger tight and had intended to come back and tighten it down, but forgot - till I noticed the depth changing. And for me, it got shallower, not deeper, since the forces pushed the mill up, not down.

What kind of collet are you using?  is it fitting right?  Is there some swarf stuck in the grooves preventing it from closing down properly?  This seems kind a bad to have your end mill move on you while it's in the collet!

Kim
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: john mills on July 15, 2019, 09:57:12 AM
Kim i have seen cutters  move if cutting on the sides .But i would not expect to have problems with these size of cuts even in steal.

the collet must be the right size for the cutter.and the collet chuck spotlessly cleaned.changing cutters with out
dismantling and cleaning is asking for swaf to end up where it is not wanted.then the collet and body can get marked briused and won't run true or may not tighten properly .check that the collet is not worn,if a cutter has
been moving it could also be slipping and can wear the collet. the nut needs to be tightened .
When i programmed cnc machines i did a lot of cutting out profiles in tool steel with ripper cutters i was very aware
of the possibility of slipping so with threaded cutters i was able to use collets with theaded nuts with the cutter screwed into but with the size cuts  and material used hear there should not be any problems.
 
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Elam Works on July 15, 2019, 04:09:16 PM
Kim,

Yup, Under high side loading I have had helical endmills pull out of spring collets. Once leaving a 'mark of shame' in a table from a 1/4 endmill. Even with something like a industry standard ER16 collet holding a standard helical (not high helix) endmill. But also have had it happen with fairly shallow taper TG collets when trying to see how big a chip load I could create; i.e. intentionally pushing the limits with much bigger endmills (CAT 40 taper spindle). For that reason I really don't like the DA series collets except for drilling (angle too steep) and for heavy roughing cuts still use a cutter with a Weldon flat and a set screw. Especially since marking the table! In the UK, I believe they had cylindrical shank endmills that has a thread on the tail end just to stop them from pulling out of collets, though the EU has done its best to homogenize everything and eliminate individuality. It is pretty rare in model making, except when cutting soft metals with 2-flute endmills and a full slotting cut. Those tend to squirm around a bit and therefore are more prone to wiggle their way out of a collet. That is if the cutter does not choke on the chips and brake. For a similar reason I have found vibration on a side milling cut (even if not a heavy cut) is more prone to drive a taper up into the machine spindle and make it stick, that a heavy direct thrust from a large drilling op.


-Doug
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on July 18, 2019, 04:47:19 AM
Kim-

I use a #2 MT collet in my mill and the 1/2" size gets used the most. My collets came with the mill when I bought it over 40 years ago so I suspect there is some wear. More than likely the situation as described by Doug was the main cause.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on July 18, 2019, 05:12:49 AM
CYLINDER FOOT (Continued) - Mounting holes were marked & drilled in the top of the "T" section. The base plate mounting holes were drilled & tapped for #5-40 screws in the bottom of the "T" section. Base plates were cut from a piece of 1/8" x 1 1/4" aluminum flat bar. Edges were milled to 1 1/8". Holes were marked & drilled. Center holes are 82 degree CSK for #5-40 FH screws.

8966 - Drill holes in "T" section.
8968 - Drill 4 holes in "T" section.
18698 - "T" sections with 4 holes.
8970 - Base plates (1/8") - finish end.
8972 - Base plates (1/8") - finish long edge.
02973 - Base plates (1/8") cut to size.
8973 - Drill holes in base plate.
8978 - 82 degree CSK holes for #5-40 FH screws in base plate.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on July 18, 2019, 05:23:56 AM
8980 - Drill hole for #5-40 screw in "T" section bottom.
8982 - Tap hole for #5-40 screw in "T" section bottom.
8984 - "T" section & base plate complete.
8986 - "T" section & base plate assembled.
8988 - Cylinder feet under block.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: vcutajar on July 18, 2019, 11:58:38 AM
Quietly following along your progress Larry.  :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:

Vince
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: scc on July 18, 2019, 08:10:49 PM
Me too! :popcorn:            Terry
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on August 04, 2019, 03:23:59 AM
OUTRIGGER BEARING PEDESTAL - A piece of scrap 1/2" aluminum was machined to 1" x 1 3/8". The side cut outs were chain drilled and milled 3/8" x 1 1/8" in successive steps using a 3/8" 2FL end mill. The 4 mounting holes were marked and drilled using a #29 (.136) drill.

1/2" scrap aluminum marked to be machined.
1/2" aluminum block machined to 1" x 1 3/8".
Side cut outs are chain drilled.
Cut outs machined to 3/8" x 1 1/8" in successive steps.
Cut outs complete.
Drilling 4 mounting holes.
Completed part.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on September 10, 2019, 12:26:34 AM
CRANKSHAFT BEARING - I just happened to have a piece of 1/2" x 1" brass bar stock. How often does that happen? I cut off 2 pieces and machined to size - 3/4". Layout crankshaft hole - drill & ream to .375. Layout bolt holes - drill #30 (.128) - CSK 5/16" x 1/8" deep using a 5/16" end mill. Mill a .188" wide x .125 deep step on each top corner using the 5/16" end mill in machine. Drill #60 (.040) oil hole in top center of bearing block (not on drawing).

9016 - Cut off 2 pieces of 1/2" x 1" brass bar stock and machine to 3/4".
9020 - Layout crankshaft hole & drill .368 with "U" drill .
9021 - Ream crankshaft hole to .375".
9023 - Layout 2 bolt holes & drill #30 (.128).
9025 - CSK 2 bolt holes with a 5/16" end mill x 1/8" deep.
9027 - Mill a .188" wide x .125" deep step on each top corner using the 5/16" end mill in machine.
125313531 - Drill a #60 (.040) oil hole in top center of bearing block (not on drawing).
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on September 10, 2019, 12:40:18 AM
CRANKSHAFT BEARING (continued) - Turn a filing button and file top radius to .375". Polish to remove tarnish.

9032 - Turn a filing button from a piece of 3/4" diameter steel rod.
132521347 - File top radius to .375". I removed most of the excess stock using a narrow sanding belt and filed to finish.
9034 - Polish to remove tarnish - completed part.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Johnmcc69 on September 10, 2019, 01:58:38 AM
 :ThumbsUp: :popcorn:
 Looking good Larry! Keep those parts coming!

 John
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on October 21, 2019, 09:21:23 PM
GUIDE and CRANKSHAFT SUPPORT - This assembly will be fabricated in 4 parts: (1) Crankshaft Support (2) Crosshead Guide Support (3) Base (4) Valve Lever Pivot. The Crankshaft Support is machined from a piece of scrap aluminum 1/2" (.511 actual) x 1 3/8 x 4.622. The drawing shows an end cut out with square corners. I used a 1/4" end mill and left the corners with a 1/8" radius. The center cut out was chain drilled and finished with a 1/2" end mill leaving a 1/4" radius at the 3 corners. Base of center section was machined to correct dimensions.

171851065 - Crankshaft Support - 1/2" (.511 actual) x 1 3/8" x 4.622" aluminum.
9044 - Machine end cut out with 1/4" end mill leaving corners with 1/8" radius.
9045 - Chain drill center cut out.
9047 - Mill cut out with 1/2" end mill leaving 1/4" radius at 3 corners.
165511579 - Center cut out almost complete.
9051 - Machine base to correct dimensions.

Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on October 21, 2019, 09:53:46 PM
CRANKSHAFT SUPPORT (continued) - Drill holes on top for bearing block. Thread one hole on top #5-40, 1/4" deep. Drill two .136 (#29) holes on left for connecting Crankshaft Support to Crosshead Guide Support. C'Bore 7/32" (.218) x .150 deep. These two holes are not shown on drawing.

163112676 - Drill 2 holes on top right for bearing block.
164348332 - Thread one hole on top #5-40 , 1/4" deep.
9056 -  Drill 2 mounting holes (.136) (#29 drill) on left for connecting crankshaft support to crosshead guide support. C'Bore 7/32" (.218) x .150 deep for #5-40 SH screws.
            These 2 holes are for assembly of parts and not shown on drawing.
132328185 - (Same as above.)
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: b.lindsey on October 21, 2019, 11:22:23 PM
Guess I missed a couple of updates Larry. Things are really coming along well. This one is on my list for sometime.

Bill
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on October 23, 2019, 02:51:41 AM
GUIDE & CRANKSHAFT SUPPORT - (BASE) : The base was machined to size (1/8" x 7/8" x 2.563") from a piece of 1/8" aluminum flat bar. The two mounting holes (#29) (.136) were drilled per dimensions on the drawing. Three holes were drilled and CSK so the base could be attached to the bottom of the Crosshead Guide Support with #5-40 FH screws.

163836137 - Base plate (1/8"x7/8"x2.563") shown in front.
9059 - Drill 3 holes for mounting base to crosshead guide support.
9061 - Countersink 3 holes for #5-40 FH screws.
175411537 - Base attached to crosshead guide support with #5-40 FH screws.
175427884 - Assembly.
175352263 - Assembly.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: b.lindsey on October 23, 2019, 02:31:35 PM
Beautiful looking parts Larry!! Still following along.

Bill
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on December 05, 2019, 04:01:44 AM
GUIDE & CRANKSHAFT SUPPORT - (CROSSHEAD GUIDE SUPPORT)  -  The Crosshead Guide Support was made from a piece of 5/8" (.625) scrap aluminum. It was machined to 1.526" x 2.312" per the drawing. I then used a small face mill to reduce the thickness to 9/16" (.563). Two #5-40 holes were drilled & tapped on the side & three #5-40 holes were drilled & tapped on the bottom for assembly with the other parts. These holes & dimensions are not shown on the drawing. To be continued.

163836137 - Crosshead Guide Support (.625 x 1.526 x 2.312) shown in middle.
173126253 - Drill 3 #38 blind holes in bottom.
9066 - Tap 3 #5-40 holes in bottom.
9083 - Drill 2 #38 blind holes in side.
9085 - Tap 2 #5-40 holes in side.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: gbritnell on December 05, 2019, 12:32:18 PM
Coming along nicely Larry. You'll be very happy with it when complete. It's a nice design.
gbritnell
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: b.lindsey on December 05, 2019, 03:09:56 PM
Good to see an update Larry, I always enjoy following your threads and this one is no exception.

Bill
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on December 07, 2019, 12:24:46 AM
Thanks George & Bill for your kind comments. They are greatly appreciated.

CROSSHEAD GUIDE SUPPORT (continued) - The Crosshead Guide Support was mounted in the vise and the !.125 hole location was centered in preparation for boring. A pilot hole was drilled large enough to accommodate the boring bar. The boring head was mounted in the spindle and the hole bored to approximate size. The hole was finished to size using the telescoping gage and micrometer to measure final inside dimension. The block was then mounted in the vise and the .152 x 1.062 corner was removed using a 2 FL end mill.

9089 - Center 1.125 hole location & drill pilot hole.
9093 - Mount boring head in spindle and bore to approximate size.
9096 - Finish hole to size using telescoping gage & micrometer to measure final inside dimension.
9106 - Remove .152 x 1.062 corner using a 2 FL end mill.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on December 08, 2019, 01:58:43 AM
CROSSHEAD GUIDE SUPPORT (continued) - The rotary table was mounted on the mill along with the CO-AX indicator. I used my small chuck to mount the block and clamped on the inside hole. Spacers (3/32") were installed on the bottom of the block next to the chuck jaws to provide clearance for the end mill. The block was centered using the CO-AX indicator in preparation for turning the .687 (11/16") radius. The radius was turned using a 1/4" 2 FL end mill @ 1900 rpm. I was very pleased with the final result not having done this in a long time.

9122 - Rotary table with small chuck and CO-AX indicator mounted on mill. Block was clamped on inside hole. Spacers (3/32") were installed on the bottom of the block next   to chuck jaws to provide clearance for the end mill. Block was centered using the CO-AX indicator. The .687 (11/16") radius was turned using a 1/4" 2 FL end mill @ 1900 rpm. I removed about .005 on each pass.

9124 - Turning radius (full view).
9126 - Turning radius (close up).
9129 - Turning radius (full view-no chips).
9133 - Turning radius (close up-no chips).
9134 - Finished part.
9135 - Finished part.




Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: crueby on December 08, 2019, 02:29:18 AM
Coming along great! 


 :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on December 11, 2019, 02:58:22 AM
GUIDE & CRANKSHAFT SUPPORT - (VALVE LEVER PIVOT)  The Valve Lever Pivot was made as a separate part from a piece of 1/4" x .724 12L14 steel rod. A hole was drilled and tapped in the center to accommodate a #3-48 screw. The pivot will be inserted in a 1/4" thru hole in the bottom of the left leg on the crankshaft support. This hole was centered on the leg with a vertical dimension of .140. I added .015 to the specified dimension of .125  to avoid drill break out. I believe it may be tight enough but may have to be secured with some Loctite.

9112 - Drill & tap #3-48 hole in center of 1/4" x .724 12L14 steel rod.
9139 - Valve lever pivot complete.
9109 - Drill a thru hole in the left leg of the crankshaft support centered near the bottom and .140 above the base with a "C" (.242) drill.
9110 - Ream hole to 1/4".
9136 - Guide & Crankshaft Support assembly showing valve lever pivot.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on January 19, 2020, 03:20:45 AM
PARTS & TEMPORARY ASSEMBLY - Here are several family shots.

141349630 - Individual parts - family shot
142504162 - Temporary assembly - family shot.
142514522 - Temporary assembly - family shot
142523076 - Temporary assembly - family shot.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on January 19, 2020, 03:39:54 AM
VALVE LEVER - The Valve Lever was made from a piece of .063 scrap plate with a zinc chromate finish (not brass). It was cut to a width of .188 (3/16") and a length of 2.550 (longer than drawing dimension). This was done to prevent drill break out on the ends. The holes were laid out to dimension and holes were drilled .098 (#40 drill) to accommodate  #3-48 screw.

9147 - Valve lever cut to size from a piece of .063 scrap plate.
9148 - Valve lever with .098 holes located per drawing dimensions. The radius on each end is about .150 from the center of the end holes.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: vcutajar on January 19, 2020, 11:51:01 AM
Looking really good Larry.   :ThumbsUp:

Vince
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Jim Nic on January 19, 2020, 01:35:50 PM
Coming along nicely Larry. 
Just some fiddly valve bits and a flywheel and she'll be ready to roll.
When I did my valves I made them as one piece, as others before me did, and I made a shallow slot on the back end in line with the valve face which can just be seen in the attached picture and made adjusting the timing easier.

Jim

Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on January 20, 2020, 04:41:28 AM
Thanks Vince for the kind comment. You have a great build log and I follow it closely. Thanks Jim Nic for that suggestion. I will certainly consider that. Looks much better than dealing with 2 parts.

CLEVIS HEAD (Eccentric Rods) - I machined a short piece of brass (3/16" x 1/4") and made a clevis head on each end. A .098 hole was drilled in the end with a #40 drill. The slot was cut in each end using a .063 slitting saw. The parts were then cut off, finished to length and the ends were drilled and threaded #5-40 for a 1/8" rod.

9149 - Short piece of brass 3/16" x 1/4".
9150 - Drill .098 hole in the end with a #40 drill.
9152 - Cut the slot with a .063 slitting saw.
9156 - Center and drill .101 hole in end.
9157 - Thread end #5-40 for a 1/8" rod.
9159 - Finished parts.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on January 20, 2020, 04:53:02 AM
ECCENTRIC RODS - Two pieces of 1/8" rod were cut to length. The straight rod (3.166") was threaded #5-40 on both ends. The rod with 2 bends (about 4.600") was threaded #5-40 on one end before bending. My bending techniques are not the best but maybe I can make it work. A couple of #5-40 nuts were put on to use as lock nuts. These may or may not be necessary.

9161 - Eccentric rods with clevis heads.
9163 - Eccentric rods with clevis heads.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on January 29, 2020, 02:52:16 AM
ECCENTRIC SWIVEL SCREW - A piece of 1/4" brass rod was chucked in a collet and the end was turned to 1/8" (.125) for a length of .235. The piece was cut to length (.485) turned around  and the opposite end drilled and tapped #3-48 for a locking screw. It was then mounted in a collet block in the mill and a 1/8" (.125) cross hole was centered & drilled. It was then moved back to the lathe and the 1/8" end was threaded #5-40 for a length of .110. This completes the part. Several pictures are shown with it mounted on a 1/8" eccentric rod with a #5-40 nut and a #3-48 locking screw.

9165 - Turn one end to 1/8"(.125) for a length of .235 and cut to length.
9166 - Drill & thread opposite end #3-48 for locking screw.
9169 - Mount in a collet block in the mill - center & drill a 1/8" (.125) cross hole.
9171 - Chuck in the lathe & thread the 1/8" end #5-40 for a length of .110.
9173 - Completed part.
9176 - Mounted on a 1/8" eccentric rod with a #5-40 nut and a #3-48 locking screw.
9178 - Close up view of same.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Flyboy Jim on January 29, 2020, 03:09:45 AM
Good explanation and pictures Larry. Well done.  :ThumbsUp:

Jim

Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on February 21, 2020, 03:54:00 AM
REAR VALVE BONNET - Two pieces were cut from a piece of .063 (1/16") thick sheet brass about 3" long and machined to a width of .625 (5/8"). A bonnet was made from each end and machined to a .625 (5/8")square. Mounting holes were drilled in each corner per dimensions with a #42 (.0935) drill.

9180 - Two pieces of .063 (1/16") thick sheet brass about 3" long and machined to a width of .625 (5/8").
9182 - A bonnet was made from each end and machined to a .625 (5/8") square.
9183 - Four pieces machined to .625 (5/8") square.
9187 - Mounting holes drilled in each corner per dimensions with a #42 (.0935) drill.
9188 - Completed pieces.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on February 22, 2020, 03:50:37 AM
FRONT VALVE BONNET - I had a piece of brass bar that measured 2 1/4" wide by .641 thick. I cut off a piece about 7/8" wide and machined all sides to .625 (5/8") square. This was mounted in a 5/8" square collet. A center hole was drilled with a #31 drill (.120) and reamed to .125 (1/8"). The end was turned to .375 (3/8") diameter. The first piece was cut off and the .375 (3/8") diameter was mounted in a 3/8" collet. The square end was faced off to dimension. Mounting holes were drilled in each corner per dimensions with a #42 (.0935) drill. The .313 (5/16") counter bore was omitted but could be added later if required. Four pieces were made this way.

9196 - Brass block machined to .625 (5/8") square by 2 1/4" long.
9192 - Brass block .625 (5/8") square mounted in a 5/8" square collet. A center hole (.120) was drilled with a #31 drill.
9195 - Center hole was reamed to .125 (1/8").
9200 - The end was turned to .375 (3/8") diameter & faced.
9202 - The first piece was cut off.
9206 - The .375 (3/8") diameter was mounted in a 3/8" collet and the square end was faced off to dimension.
9216 - Mounting holes drilled in each corner per dimensions with a #42 (.0935) drill.
9217 - Completed pieces.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Jim Nic on February 22, 2020, 11:33:01 AM
Hi Larry

A good description of the valve bonnet manufacture.  I note that you omitted the counterbore in the back faces.  I don't recall what the intended purpose of this feature is, possibly something to do with the 2 part valves, but I used it to locate an O ring seal to stop any air leakage through the bonnet past the valve spindle.   If you decide to do this the size of the recess would need to be adjusted to suit whatever size of seal you used.
The seals are not shown fitted below.

Jim
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on March 16, 2020, 03:01:04 AM
VALVE - The valves were made from a piece of 12L14 1/4" rod using the one piece construction. Four pieces were cut to a length of 2.657". I built a jig basically following Vince's method. A 1/4" ball nose end mill was used to cut a circular groove .110" deep. The jig was designed for two milling operations - the center cut out and the end slot. A stop was added at one end, two clamping bars and a relief at the other end for the slitting saw. A depth gage was made to align the cut out parallel to the jig for cutting the end slot. A valve rod was clamped in the jig and the 5/8" x 1/8" cut out was milled. This was done 4 times in order to use the same setup. The valve rod was then clamped in the jig using the depth gage so the cut out was parallel to the base of the jig. A slot was cut in the back end using a .052" thick slitting saw and .050 " deep. The valve rod was then chucked in the lathe and the end turned to .125" diameter. Finished valves are shown with a couple of front valve bonnets.

181014149 - Valve machining jig - 1/4" circular groove lengthwise, .110" deep. Stop at one end, two clamping bars & relief at other end for slitting saw.
181118147 - Valve machining jig with one bar removed.
9226 - Milling 5/8" x 1/8" cut out in valve.
175213714 - Valve clamped with cut out parallel to jig base showing depth gage.
175311011 - Same as above - different view.
9239 - Milling slot in back end with .052" thick slitting saw and .050" deep.
160435668 - End of valve turned to .125" diameter.
195657461 - Finished valves shown with a couple of front valve bonnets.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on April 13, 2020, 03:39:50 AM
VALVE LEVER - The design of the Valve Lever was changed from the original drawing so that it could be clamped to the valve shaft. I basically followed Vince's method. I cut a piece of .125 (1/8") thick brass plate about 4 1/2" long and machined it to .230" wide. It was then cut into 4 equal lengths and one end of each was finished for location of dimensions. The small hole .076" diameter (#48 drill) was located and drilled. This is for a #1-72 screw. The large hole was located and drilled .120" diameter (#31 drill) and reamed to .125 (1/8"). This hole will be clamped to the end of the valve. The piece was located on the edge and the clamping hole .076" diameter (#48 drill) was located and drilled. A slot was then cut across the clamping hole with a .014" thick slitting saw. The pieces were finished to a length of .740". The end with the small hole was rounded on the belt sander. The last picture shows the Valve Levers temporarily mounted on the valves in the block.

131855490 - Cut a piece of .125 (1/8") thick brass plate about 4 1/2" long and machined it to .230" wide.
140646210 - Cut into 4 equal lengths and one end of each was finished for location of dimensions.
171215093 - Locate and drill the small hole .076" diameter (#48 drill). This is for a #1-72 screw.
172629932 - Locate and drill the .120" diameter hole (#31 drill).
174139525 - Ream above hole to .125 (1/8"). This hole will be clamped to the end of the valve.
9283 - Locate piece on edge and locate and drill the clamping hole .076"diameter (#48 drill).
9286 - Cut a slot across the clamping hole with a .014" thick slitting saw.

Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on April 13, 2020, 03:54:42 AM
VALVE LEVER (continued - see above) ---

173327585 - Finish pieces to a length of .740" and round end with small hole on the belt sander.
174041570 - Finished pieces are temporarily mounted on the Valves in the block.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: crueby on April 13, 2020, 05:06:25 AM
Great looking valve arms, those detail parts really make the look of the engine.   :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: kvom on April 13, 2020, 12:43:47 PM
Looks like you're spending quality time in the shop with the self-isolation.   :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on June 25, 2020, 10:05:53 PM
DISK ARM - The Disk Arms were made in one piece starting with a piece of 5/16" hex brass rod. Five pieces (one extra) were cut 2" long allowing extra length for holding. Here again I basically followed Vince's method. The ends were faced off on the lathe. A collet block with a 5/16" collet was mounted in the mill vise. Each piece was clamped in the collet and the loose end was supported with a machinist jack. Two .076" (#48 drill) holes were drilled in the center of a hex side. .612" center to center (per drawing). Each piece was center drilled so it could be supported in the lathe tail stock with live center for turning later. I modified the jig that was used for the valves and added clamps to the back side for holding each piece to mill the flat section. Each center section was milled .094" thick using a 5/16" 4 FL end mill. I only had one carriage stop for my lathe so I made a second one for the right hand side of the carriage so I could more accurately turn the spindle arm. Each piece was mounted on the lathe using a 5/16" collet in the chuck and the opposite end was supported by a live center using the center drilled hole as previously described. Carriage stops were used on each side of the carriage to get an approximate length of .312" using the "eyeball" method. Each spindle was turned to a .070 / .075" diameter. Ends were cut off in the mill using a .016" slitting saw. Set up rotary table with small chuck on the mill and centered under spindle. Used a short piece of .375 (3/8)" rod and turned one end to about .183" diameter. Drilled & threaded a center hole in rod #1-72 for mounting Disk Arm & machined a radius using a 5/64" 4 FL end mill. The radius from center is .094" + .039" = .133". I forgot to include 1/2 radius of end mill on the first cut - glad I made one extra! The corners were filed to finish.

9294 - A 2" long piece of 5/16" hex brass rod was clamped in a collet block and one end was supported with a machinist jack. Two .076" (#48 drill) holes were drilled in
           the center of a hex side .612" center to center (per drawing).

163237915 - Each piece was center drilled so it could be supported with a live center for turning the spindle later.

9300 - Valve jig was modified and clamps added to the back for holding each piece to mill the flat section. Each center section was milled .094" thick using a 5/16" 4 FL
           end mill.

9303 - I made a second carriage stop for the right hand side so I could more accurately turn the spindle arm.

9305 - Carriage stop mounted on lathe.

9308 - Left end mounted in 5/16" collet and right end supported by live center using center drilled hole as previously described. Center distance was marked on each
           piece and lathe tool aligned using the "eyeball" method.

131515557 - Each piece was turned to a .070 / .075" diameter for an approximate length of .312" . Carriage stops were used on each side of carriage.

132724665 - Center section (spindle) complete prior to ends being cut off.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: Larry on June 25, 2020, 10:27:34 PM
DISK ARM (continued - see above) ----

9321 - Ends were cut off using a .016" slitting saw.

180522078 - Disk Arms with ends cut off.

9331 - Set up rotary table with small chuck and center under mill spindle.

9325 - Used a short piece of .375 (3/8)" rod and turned one end to about .183" diameter. Drilled & threaded a center hole in rod # 1-72 for mounting Disk Arm. Machined
           a radius of .133" (.094 + .039) using a 5/64" 4 FL end mill.

172737886 - Disk Arms complete. Corners were filed to finish.
Title: Re: MEM Corliss Attempt
Post by: scc on June 26, 2020, 12:18:47 PM
 :popcorn: :popcorn: Thank you for the clear pics and explanations.......I'm following and learning.            Terry