Model Engine Maker

Engines => From Plans => Topic started by: mzt on September 21, 2012, 08:39:40 AM

Title: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: mzt on September 21, 2012, 08:39:40 AM
Another 'move': nothing new till post #9
Marcello
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: mzt on September 21, 2012, 08:40:57 AM
The Floor and Bases

Made them long time ago, no pictures were taken.
Milled them to size from various offcuts taken from the scrap pile, then drilled all the holes using the DRO.
Bevelling will be the last operation,  after checking all parts are fitting OK.

The cylinder
A friend of mine brought me this partially machined con-rod cap from work: the drill obviously wandered and the item had to be discarded. That?s cast-iron of the finest grade!!!  And there?s enough material to make 3 cylinders.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/01/01Cyl_IMG_1994.jpg)


 
After a quick (so to say) session with the hacksaw I?ve got the blanks to start working on.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/01/01Cyl_IMG_1995.jpg)

 
1st step:  I secured the material into the vice, suspended on two spacers and a rod through the bore, to mill a face reasonably parallel with the bore axis.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/01/01Cyl_IMG_1997.jpg)

 
2nd / 3rd step:  (no pictures taken) The recently milled face was put against the fixed jaw of the vice, and the same method as before applied to mill a second face, square to the first and (again) reasonably parallel to the bore.

4th step:  now on the lathe faceplate, making use of the two surfaces at right angle to face one end of the cylinder and machining the bore.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/01/01Cyl_IMG_1999.jpg)


Steps 5, 6, 7, ... n: OK, I messed up!
When I dismounted the cylinder, all would have been OK if only I had not forgotten to make several passes with the boring bar on the final cut, to for the springiness of the tool.  Took a final heavy cut, instead, to improve the finish.
(Yep!  Finish was definitely better on heavy cuts than on shallow ones)
Results were a noticeable taper into the bore, too evident to correct in any way but machining again.
(Stopped taking pictures for a while, at this point).
The cylinder was mounted vertical into the mill vise, checked for trueness and centred with a DTI and then bored to a cylindrical shape with a carbide tipped bar into the boring head. ? Several ?last passes? were not forgotten, in this occasion.

Step n+1:  some more work on the mill to bring the external dimensions of the cylinder to size, taking reference from the bore.  With the material finally squared and brought to size, I drilled all the passages, the holes for the holding screws and milled the slots for the steam.

Step n+2:  after machining a mandrel + cap to bore size, I mounted the cylinder on the lathe spindle to turn round the upper and lower portions.  (the next two pictures show the mandrel  and cylinder I had made while building #29, same principle applies)
 
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/01/02Cyl_IMG_1630.jpg)


(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/01/02Cyl_IMG_1632.jpg)



Step n+3: the mandrel assembly was then transferred to the rotary table (picture shows the mill ER32 collets holder I used) to be milled and rounded in the central part.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/01/03Cyl_IMG_2003.jpg)


(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/01/03Cyl_IMG_2005.jpg)


(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/01/03Cyl_IMG_2011.jpg)

 




 
 
The Heads

Chucked a small brass rod into the lathe, faced and turned it to size.  Zeroed the adjustable  carriage stop and took a light facing cut, then moved the micrometer 9/10mm to the left to machine the portion to fit the cylinder diameter, then parted off the outboard head. (The remaining pip was removed with pliers, file and sandpaper).
The inboard head was made by machining the external part first, then reversed into a collet to make the hidden portion.
Drilling the hole was a slower job: first of all, I set a piece of scrap al. Into the vice, zeroing the DRO roughly in the center. Then I drilled a hole to fit the outer head

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/01/03Cyl_IMG_2017.jpg)


Inserted the head (reversed) and drilled the holes at coordinates (the DRO helped a lot into that!)

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/01/03Cyl_IMG_2018.jpg)
 
The outboard head was held through enlarging the hole with the aid of a boring head till it was large enough to accept the head in its ?normal? position. Had some issues regarding the head possibly moving during the drilling operations, so I held it in place using some paper tape.
 
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/01/03Cyl_IMG_2019.jpg)


Was right about the issues, not so about preventing the head from moving: when the centre bit grabbed on the third hole...
Fortunately, the head was not ruined: at that point I drilled the plate through, and used a screw and nut to keep the head  in place. Then drilled a diametrically opposed hole for a second screw.
 
Here?s a coupla picts of the cylinder, complete with the heads. 

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/01/03Cyl_IMG_2020.jpg)


(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/01/03Cyl_IMG_2023.jpg)

 


The Crosshead Guides

Sawing part of the unneeded material,  I will find some use for that.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/01/04CH_IMG_2091.jpg)

 

Next, I milled the part to size and a decent finish marked it, and finally cut it. Here they?re shown after  the final milling on the parting line.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/01/04CH_IMG_2093.jpg)

 

The Piston shaft won?t line with the guides!

While test fitting the cylinder ,crosshead guides and a temporary piston shaft  on the base, I  had the unpleasant vision of a piston shaft unequally  spaced among the guides, because the two fixing holes on the bottom of the cylinder were misplaced.  Chose the easy way of re-drilling the holes on the base.

First of all, I need to fill the voids: here, i?m machining a 3mm screw from a short rod of gummy al.
Not such a good thread, but hopefully thread locker will aid.
In the background, the base evidencing the two holes I need to move.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/01/05CHFix_IMG_2102.jpg)


Barely visible, the two holes already filled. Now i?m ready for re-drilling them in a more suitable position. 

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/01/05CHFix_IMG_2108.jpg)



Had to enlarge the coutersinks on the bottm side. Sure, this piece has evidence of poor craftmanship.
But they will be hidden, and no one will ever see them.. 

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/01/05CHFix_IMG_2111.jpg)


Things are much better aligned, now.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/01/05CHFix_IMG_2115.jpg)


Marcello
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: mzt on September 21, 2012, 08:45:47 AM
Flywheel
Here?s the blank: a 72mm thick walled steel tubing from the scrapyard.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/02/06FW_IMG_0214.jpg)

 
Turned  on the outside (with no attention to the finish), bored to whatever diameter it came, faced, parted and re-faced on the second side.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/02/06FW_IMG_0217.jpg)

 
A small aluminium plate held in the 3jaws for facing and drilling a hole in it. That?ll be the blank for the flywheel webs, I do not yet know what shape I will make them.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/02/06FW_IMG_0219.jpg)

 
Next, I turned, drilled and reamed a small brass rod to accept the flywheel shaft, to be press fitted into the webs blank.  Got a push fit, not enough secure for my tastes.
I set the hub on a temporary shaft to  knurl  its central part, then wetted it with loctite and repressed into the al.
That should do, will know for sure tomorrow.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/02/06FW_IMG_0223.jpg)


 

Piston and piston rod
Having been forced to let the flywheel aside till the loctite is set, I turned a piston out of the tiniest piece of bronze I had: did not have to remove much material to get it to size.
First of all, i cut and threaded the piston rod ends, then chucked the piston blank in a collet and turned it .5mm oversize. Next, I drilled the tapping and clearance hole for the 3mm shaft, screwed in the rod (with a bit of loctite, as it was still at hand from the previous job), re-chucked the shaft in a 3mm collet and brought the piston to push size.
That should ensure the piston and piston rod are exactly on the same line.
The picture shows the piston and cylinder after the final lapping using very thin polishing compound and oil.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/02/07Ptn_IMG_0226.jpg)
 

Marcello
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: mzt on September 21, 2012, 08:46:30 AM

The Flywheel (continued)

An initial deep (5mm) cut showed no signs of motion among the loctited parts:  rather have them split now than on the final cut, :-)

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/03/08FW_IMG_0241.jpg)



Roughing cuts: the finish is ugly. Hopefully a round nosed tool when I will get to the sizing cuts will do better.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/03/08FW_IMG_0242.jpg)



It did.

 
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/03/08FW_IMG_0244.jpg)



After pressing the tyre, I had the (bad) idea of mounting the wheel on a 6mm arbour and spin it in the lathe for a final truing: got chatter, tremendous! Like waves on the sea (in a windy day).
I should have take a picture of it.
Dull tool? Mounted another, same results.
Speed up? Slow down? Skin cuts? Deep? ....?  ...?
Answer was always CHATTER! CHATTER! CHATTER! !!!

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/03/08FW_IMG_0247.jpg)

Then, it occurred to me the wheel was mounted on a 6mm silver steel arbour... and if it were due to springiness on the arbour ?
When I mounted the wheel  hub into a 19mm collet, however short the grip was, the chatter disappeared.

Marcello



Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: mzt on September 21, 2012, 08:46:57 AM

The Bearings

A bit of progress on this long forgotten project: last Saturday I got around making the bearings;  while I  was at them, I decided to make a few, just in case I will get interested into building another engine from the book. <G>
Started with squaring a block of aluminium, then centring the cutter and milling the sides to depth; when it came to rounding the edges I decided to make an experiment into grinding a cutter right for the job.

 
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/04/09_IMG_0490.jpg)

 
Started with a 10mm 2 fluted end mill who had seen too many resharpenings (only a few mm of flutes were left) and ground away one of them [==> single cutter, so I won?t have to make two cutting edges alike].

A few minutes of hand grinding on the bench wheel  (and many more toying myself with diamond files and oil stones)  gave this result

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/04/10p_IMG_0485.jpg)


(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/04/10p_IMG_0487.jpg)


Had a little more shop time to spend (not enough to complete the bearings) so I decided to use it making some of the missing parts for the crosshead guides, hacksawing and polishing them from a 3mm brass plate.
It was already late at night: I left the drilling for the next day...

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/04/11_IMG_0488.jpg)
 
..being well aware the next morning I?d have picked up another project.


Marcello
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: mzt on September 21, 2012, 08:47:22 AM

Small works on Bearings, Base and Lugs

I?m only working on this engine at random intervals, whenever I?ve no time or interest into working on parts
for other engines and no new project gets in the way.
Gotta push this one too, if I want to bring it to an end.

Having recently shaped a long bearing block, I cut two portions of it, gave them a decent finish using a
flycutter and sized one to the correct height.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/05/12_IMG_0771.jpg)
 
The taller one is already too short, I knew:  will look for some way of putting a bit of metal where it should be.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/05/12_IMG_0773.jpg)
 
A second look at the slots I had cut into the base to accept the lugs revealed all the damages I had done while
trying to bring them to a better finish through improper hand use of machine tools & desktop accessories.

Had to cut them once more in the mill, deeper and larger.
Next I roughed the lugs, from some 10mm gummy square, still longer and thicker than needed.
Will have to bring the base to the desired finish before fitting them in place, should I opt for a permanent mount.
 
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/05/12_IMG_0777.jpg)


Marcello
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: mzt on September 21, 2012, 08:47:46 AM

Reaming a bevel

I temporarily mounted the sub-base to the floor, set them flat into the vice on parallels and chucked the
largest taper reamer I could find into the ?tools purchased by weight? drawer.
I had more concerns about ruining the workpiece than about the reamer: that one, together with most of the others,
has been laying there for years, unused.  I?ve never been in need to ream a hole to an unknown taper, and
I don?t think I will be likely to face such a task in the near future.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/06/13_IMG_0785.jpg)

 
In the end, I got the job done in seconds, and the reamer suffered no visible harm.
The bevel is shallow, but clearly noticeable.  A bit of sandpaper work on the plate should bring the item to a decent finish.

Before dismounting the sub-base, I drilled a couple (three, to be exact. But the third one I?m trying to forget..)
of extra holes  through both the items using a 2.9mm bit. That made holes exactly the size of a 3mm bit shank:
they should aid re-aligning the base with the floor on subsequent mountings and dismountings.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/06/13_IMG_0788.jpg)

Marcello
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: mzt on September 21, 2012, 08:48:13 AM

Small bevelling progress, no pics.

Spent (quite) a few minutes reaming a bevel on the top base using a different reamer, one which was slightly more tapered, from the same scrap pile.
Gotta buy myself a tilting vice, someday.
I made use of the aligning holes I had put on the floor and base to have them aligned, then placed three washers between the assembly and
the top base, to gain some working clearance.

At the end of the job, I decided to deepen the aligning holes into the top base: cannot say how, I managed to clog a 2.9mm drill bit into aluminium,
while deepening the second hole to an extra 5mm.  Unusual clog, btw: the bit could turn, but no way I could get it out.
Got it back again, after dismounting, but I don?t think them holes will be any good for the purpose I had put them in.

 
Had to swallow it: it was not going to be a good machining day.
Rather shut off the machines and look for some hand work: removing tool marks and polishing the bases did, though it lasted much longer
than the ?bit of work? I had estimated.
And aint close to the end, yet.

Marcello
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: steamer on September 21, 2012, 09:08:50 AM
You've been very busy Marcello!
 :NotWorthy: :NotWorthy: :NotWorthy:
Dave
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: Jo on September 21, 2012, 09:32:41 AM
Wow, hasn't he!

I like your reuse of that original damaged crank cap :ThumbsUp: Waste not, want, not.

And looking at your tools and set ups: I must :wallbang: :wallbang: make myself a decent set of clamps for my vice, yours are so simple! If I made a set, it would make life so much easier.

Forgive me for my ignorance: any chance of an outline drawing of what you are building? I know that many members from the other side of the pond know all about these Elmer designs but they are all new to me.

Jo
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: mzt on September 21, 2012, 09:51:23 AM
Dave,

I cannot spend all my shop time making tools and fixtures, gotta work on engines at times!!



Jo,

Elemer's Verbourgh engines were recently removed on request of the copyright owner from the PD (the whole book was available through the Elmers_Egines groups, on Yahoo).
I suppose the john-tom www.john-tom.com (http://www.john-tom.com) site still has them, I have not checked back.  (In the last couple of minutes)
Marcello
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: Jo on September 21, 2012, 10:13:59 AM
Thanks :), found them:

http://www.john-tom.com/html/ElmersEngines.html

Jo
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: mzt on September 21, 2012, 10:31:33 AM
Jo,

as for the clamps, it took about six years for me to get around making them.
Then, made the four of them in half an hour or so: just chucked pieces of square bar in the lathe, rounded one end to 8mm, drilled and coutersunk the cross holes for the screws.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/ToolMakersVice/ViceClampsIMG_1985.jpg)

Marcello


Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: mzt on September 21, 2012, 10:43:24 AM

Anchor lugs.

They were cut to a tight fit with the slots in the base long time ago, only needing some rounding of the ends and being brought to the correct thickness.
Some fancy setup, but it worked with no shake however tall it was.
 
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/08/14_IMG_1290_zps00ab4fc7.jpg)


Lugs in place

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/08/14_IMG_1294_zpsbb4727c4.jpg)

Marcello
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: NickG on September 21, 2012, 06:21:42 PM
That's looking great Marcello, I really need to stop looking on here at all these great projects, it's making me want to do more and more!

Nick
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: Don1966 on September 21, 2012, 07:34:39 PM
Gee..... You been a very busy fellow Marcello. Looking great.

Don
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: sbwhart on September 21, 2012, 07:45:42 PM
Looking good Marcello  :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:

Stew
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: zeeprogrammer on September 22, 2012, 01:19:21 PM
Very nice Marcello.

I like that round-over bit you made. Timely post for me.

I've never seen a pic of someone sawing on their machine vise so that was interesting too. I noted the duct tape for protection.
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: mzt on September 24, 2012, 10:41:38 AM
Carl,

Round-over bit: mine works no better than for roughing a curved shape, someday I will try to make a 'finishing' one. Possibly on a grinder.

Machine hacksawing: I'm never sure whether that practice does any good to my machines, put probably they're not facing harder jobs than the ones they're made for.
Sure, I'm placing a board of wood on the lathe bed when hacksawing a piece held in the spindle.

Marcello

Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: mzt on September 24, 2012, 10:42:17 AM
Top Base

Having the already bevelled top base sanded and polished I realized a rather huge slot was missing...

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/09/15_IMG_1298_zps37b89ca4.jpg)


The good point being I finally have an occasion to use that 12mm MT2 T-slotter.
The piece of scrap on the between the wp. and the fixed jaw of the vice was put there so I could also fit an angle plate
into the setup, the wp. being bolted to the angle plate itself from the back.
I suppose Simon is now in credit of a ruined workpiece with me: thank You for sharing that problem with the eccentric strap.


 
Bearings

Started with making the short one, pres fitting a brass bearing I had drilled 5.8mm into the alu. body.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/09/15_IMG_1304_zps26b315b5.jpg)


 Then, I made the tall one (decided to make the body in two parts, don?t ask...)
Now, I have to solve the problem of drilling the second bearing in line with the first. Time to experiment a bit.

Chucked in the lathe a short (maybe 50-60mm) piece of 6mm steel rod, reduced one end to 5.8mm and drilled it through 3mm dia,
hoping for the best.    The drill wandered, You bet.
Not being interested into another try, I reversed the rod in the lathe, chucked a 4mm end mill into the TS and plunged the
wp. ~10mm deep to gain some kind of guide for a 4mm bit. 

Something like this:

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/09/15_IMG_1306Drawing_zps09e45ea2.jpg)


(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/09/15_IMG_1306_zps461360ab.jpg)


(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/09/15_IMG_1310_zps803fe4e2.jpg)


 
Now being put into use, the tall bearing being supported by a jack screw.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/09/15_IMG_1312_zps6e27158f.jpg)

 

drilled to 9.9mm, then bushed,

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/09/15_IMG_1316_zps99ef407e.jpg)


and line reamed to 6mm dia.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/09/15_IMG_1318_zpsb27395bb.jpg)


Most of the parts, so far.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/09/15_IMG_1323_zps5b736285.jpg)

Marcello
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: b.lindsey on September 24, 2012, 11:49:37 AM
The engine is looking great Marcello!  Nice finish on all the parts too. 

Bill
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: mzt on September 27, 2012, 11:19:52 AM

Crosshead


The c.i. blank. I knew I would have found some use for it, someday. That material cuts like butter, btw.
 
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/100/16_IMG_1329.jpg)



A blur photo of the finished crosshead, pin and pin blank.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/100/16_IMG_1331.jpg)



Now in place
 
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/100/16_IMG_1334.jpg)



Pity, I noticed now, I forgot about the ?key? at the bottom.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/100/16_IMG_1334drw.jpg)


Either there?s still material enough to cut it on the upper face, or some exercise into putting metal back where
it should be will be in order, tonight.


Marcello
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: zeeprogrammer on September 27, 2012, 11:34:51 AM
Pity, I noticed now,

A familiar experience.

I hope it works out.
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: mzt on September 27, 2012, 11:51:42 AM
I have ideas a round key press fitted (a drop of glue won't hurt) into the bottom of the crosshead would do. .
Rather let the press aside and use the vice, tho.

Marcello
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: b.lindsey on September 27, 2012, 12:24:49 PM
Marcello, even though the crosshead will be held straight by the con rod and crank rod, the key protects against any side movement. A round "key" would accomplish this without having to remake the part, but I am thinking a square key, as per the original design even if added on to the bottom would provide a much larger contact area and protect against wear over time. The round key will only touch the crosshead guide at two points. Just a thought.

Bill
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: mzt on September 27, 2012, 12:38:58 PM
Bill,

the point is good.

Thank You
Marcello
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: NickG on September 27, 2012, 11:36:26 PM
Looking great, it's a nice design that one - well executed  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: mzt on October 05, 2012, 04:41:53 PM
Crosshead (again)

I could reverse the crosshead on the guide (the hole for the piston rod was in line with the rod itself, but non at the center of the c.h.)  and mill a key for it to slide into the guide.
Not exactly to size as per drawings (1/32) but very very close (a little less than 1/96...)
That could do, providing I will leave very little clearance between the lower and upper guides.
 I will know for sure in a little while.

Should it not, I see making an entirely new one would not be much work, pity for the scrapped piece.
But I would surely find a use or two for a small sized C-clamp in time.

Marcello
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: mzt on October 08, 2012, 09:37:28 AM
Crank

That ?blank? from the scrap steel box, already turned to size, drilled and tapped M3 for the crank screw and bored somewhere above
(but close to) 5.9mm for later press fitting the crankshaft.

I also turned an alu. collar to a close fit with the crankshaft bore and drilled it for an M4 screw with no play.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/102/17_IMG_1361.jpg)


Put the RT in the vice, then the faceplate on the RT, centred the RT with the spindle, then added a scrap plate I could drill
and tap in the needed positions to the faceplate.
A few layers of paper to keep the workpiece a little above the surface, then I milled the crank at coordinates.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/102/17_IMG_1364.jpg)




Connecting Rod

Or part of it. Here is shown while tapping, together with the filing button I used to bring it to shape.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/102/17_IMG_1370.jpg)


Here it is, together with the piston already fitted with a new shaft. Facing the bottom of the piston in the lathe while
held with a 3mm shaft was not a good idea.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/102/17_IMG_1375.jpg)


So much for ?taking the risk? not to switch to a larger collet to hold it properly.



Eccentric

Yet another occasion for my eccentrics jig.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/102/17_IMG_1379.jpg)




Eccentric strap

I?m definitely into building up engine parts, today.  The bearing came from a thick brass washer, here I?m cross drilling the
arm 1.5mm dia. using an improvised jack for support.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/102/17_IMG_1380.jpg)

 
In place, after filing two flats for the valve rod.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/102/17_IMG_1385.jpg)



 
Steam Chest

An occasion to put the recently made faceplate (and angle plate) into use, finally!

After turning, facing and drilling the inboard end of the steam chest , I drilled the faceplate for a 2mm locating pin
 
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/102/17_IMG_1388.jpg)


to aid keeping things aligned when cutting the second end.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/102/17_IMG_1389.jpg)

 

Flywheel

Decided it could do with a few holes: I centred a 6mm shaft held vertical in the vice with the mill spindle, added a scrap alu. disk
(a VCR head) to protect the vice itself, then the flywheel and drilled the six 8mm holes at coordinates.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/102/17_IMG_1400.jpg)


Marcello
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: zeeprogrammer on October 08, 2012, 11:27:14 AM
Looks like you're really moving along.
It's coming together very nicely!
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: smfr on October 08, 2012, 04:30:10 PM
Wow, lots of progress there, Marcello, with some neat setups. And a problem shared is a problem halved, right? :D

Simon
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: arnoldb on October 08, 2012, 06:57:30 PM
You're really making short but great work of this one Marcello  :ThumbsUp:

Kind regards, Arnold
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: mzt on October 09, 2012, 08:43:13 AM
Quote
And a problem shared is a problem halved

You mean the broken piston rod?
That was really stupid of me. 

Though it was THE  ::) good occasion to use a salvaged LH tool head a friend of mine had welded to a shank for me...

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_Tools/Some%20salvaged%20indexable%20turning%20tools/001/a11_IMG_1192.jpg)

It was not.  :wallbang:

Marcello
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: mzt on October 09, 2012, 08:52:12 AM
Valve rod and Valve packnut

Little to say about the three diameters (1.5 / 1.9 and 2mm) valve silver steel rod besides having made it into
a 2/1.5mm ER32 collet using a sharp tool at max speed.
The brass bracket to link it to the eccentric strap took much more time: I started from a piece of brass I picked up
from the brass swarfs bucket, slotted the thing, drilled two cross holes 1.5 and 1.6mm, tapped the second M2 and filed
away all the unwanted metal. 
It took a couple of hours, mostly spent on the four legs among the swarfs cluttering the floor.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/103/18_IMG_1403.jpg)

Marcello

Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: mzt on October 10, 2012, 10:59:20 AM
Steam chest cover

Got curious about the aesthetical results if I had the brass steam chest sandwiched between C.I. cyl. and cover.
Put a C.I. end  (probably from the Bernays pistons) between fixed jaw and V-block (is it the right way, or was
it between movable jaw and V-block? Fixed jaw sounds better.)

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/104/19_IMG_1407.jpg)

Whatever was the correct way, this setup is much likely to end with a milled down V-block.
No V-block, and that?s it.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/104/19_IMG_1409.jpg)


Contented myself with zeroing the DRO somewhere near the centre of the workpiece and drilled four 2mm holes at coordinates.
Then, milled out the periphery at coordinates again, plus a little allowance for filing to a decent  finish and size.
Had the (good) idea of removing the wp. from the vice at that point, to sandpaper the external surface while still
attached to a block you can hold firmly in the hands.
Back in the vice, raised on stacked cheap man?s parallels,  I chucked a slitting saw to cut a groove on the four sides
acting as a guide for the hacksaw. Next, came the smoothing of the inner surface, and it was not a quick job.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/104/19_IMG_1412.jpg)


(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/104/19_IMG_1413.jpg)


 
Valve and Valve Nut

I spent more time hunting for a suitable piece into the brass scraps box than machining the valve itself.
As usual when working at max speed with 1.5 / 2mm milling bits I took no pictures of the works, it is just the
camera not coming to mind in those moments.
Snapped nothing, and the valve fits (and floats) well.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/104/19_IMG_1418.jpg)

Marcello
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: NickG on October 11, 2012, 09:15:25 PM
It is looking stunning  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: steamer on October 12, 2012, 02:13:13 AM
Marcello,

It is very evident to me you like cutting metal!   Nice job on the valve chest!

Dave
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: Don1966 on October 12, 2012, 03:16:34 AM
Great job Marcello, love the photos. Your making fast progress on this engine.

Don
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: mzt on October 12, 2012, 07:50:54 AM
Quote

It is very evident to me you like cutting metal!
Dave

Putting it back where it should be is part of the fun, too!
(sometimes)

Marcello
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: mzt on October 12, 2012, 11:36:39 AM
Valve rod pin, Steam intake and Crosshead guides

The pin into one of my cross drilling jigs: being too long to fit the hole already present into the jig at the correct length,
I used two washers as spacers, then kept it in place using the toolmakers clamp.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/105/20_IMG_1422.jpg)


The 1.5mm dia. pin, cross-drilled 0.7., sitting on the clamp  (and that was the one thing I wanted to be shown in the pic...).

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/105/20_IMG_1424.jpg)


If it were not for the steam outtake, the engine would be complete.
Had to cheat a little when the four steel spacers on the crosshead cleaned a bit too short.
A couple of filing strokes on the lower face of the upper rails solved the light binding I had when they were fully tightened.

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/105/20_IMG_1427.jpg)


She could do with studs and nuts, but ain?t much happy with the idea.
Definitely, She cannot do without some washers. I do not have any washers in those sizes.
That problem was solved (somehow).

(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/105/20_IMG_1448.jpg)

Oh, YES! She runs.
I did not tell You before but, a few days ago, when the steam inlet and the upper rails of the crosshead were still
missing and there was a drill bit in place of the valve rod pin...   I could not resist.

Yesterday with all the bits and pieces in place I had her running from 0.25 to 2.5 bar of air. Did not go over that,
not without some kind of load on the shaft. I am pleased with her.

Now, for some more washers, cleaning and a base.
 
Marcello
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: steamer on October 13, 2012, 02:00:50 AM
Quote

It is very evident to me you like cutting metal!
Dave

Putting it back where it should be is part of the fun, too!
(sometimes)

Marcello

 :ROFL:
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: NickG on October 13, 2012, 10:55:28 AM
Brilliant Marcello, I love it  :ThumbsUp: Might make my project list this one now!
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: mzt on November 12, 2012, 10:31:32 AM

Wood Base

I used a couple of grub screws, inserted upside down, to transfer the position of the M6 holes to the wood base,
 
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/106/21_IMG_1580.jpg)


then drilled and counter bored the wood board for two SH screws.
 
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/106/21_IMG_1583.jpg)

 
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee403/mzetati/_steamEngines/WIP02-33MillEngine/106/21_IMG_1623.jpg)

Next post will be into the Showcase.

Marcello
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: Jo on November 12, 2012, 05:20:20 PM
Looks good :ThumbsUp:, your choice of materials means that you can happily get away with out painting it. ;)

Are you going to add a "maker's plaque " to show who and when it was made?

Jo
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: mzt on November 14, 2012, 08:38:43 AM
Quote
Are you going to add a "maker's plaque " to show who and when it was made?

No, they're toys.
Marcello
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: sbwhart on November 14, 2012, 09:30:53 AM
Looking very good Marcello  :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:

Stew
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine - MZT
Post by: steamer on November 14, 2012, 10:22:19 AM
video please!........ ;D


Dave
Title: Re: Elmer's #33 Mill Engine build - MZT
Post by: mzt on November 14, 2012, 11:06:21 AM
Dave,

Thank You for asking, the video is in the showcase.
http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,979.msg11764.html#msg11764 (http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,979.msg11764.html#msg11764)

Somehow, I managed to start a thread in the showcase using the same thread name I had used in the build. 
Marcello