Model Engine Maker

Supporting => Vehicles & Models => Topic started by: Firebird on December 28, 2016, 04:59:34 PM

Title: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on December 28, 2016, 04:59:34 PM
Hi

I have moved this from the plans section

I am embarking on my first steam loco build, Conway a 3 1/2" gauge 0-4-0 freelance. Originally published in Model Engineer magazine in the 1980's its a Martin Evans design.

I understand this forum doesn't do loco's so I'll gauge reaction and interest and seek guidance from the moderators before I continue.

It may be some of the members have built loco's in which case I would like to seek their advice on the (probably many) occasions I get stuck.

Let me know

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: b.lindsey on December 28, 2016, 07:08:00 PM
Rich, you have found the right place for the build log. Though I am personally not involved in loco construction, I always enjoy seeing the work of others on locos and will look forward to your progress!

Bill
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on December 28, 2016, 05:18:24 PM
Hi

I'll post the first bit in some detail, let me know if thats how you want it or just a condensed version.

The boiler tube is 4" OD with a 13 SWG wall thickness (2.5mm or 3/32") and is about 3/4" over long at the moment. To trim the ends square and cut to length requires a bit of woodwork.

Screw a scrap of wood, about 1" thick, to a face plate. I use large self tapping screws.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161227_114641_zpspfipdd8d.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161227_114641_zpspfipdd8d.jpg.html)

Screw another bit of wood to it

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161227_115840_zpsvfhbe7rx.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161227_115840_zpsvfhbe7rx.jpg.html)

Turn them down so the first piece is a circle and the second piece has a shoulder. Drill through 10mm

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161227_123525_zpsy7r7so7u.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161227_123525_zpsy7r7so7u.jpg.html)

The tube must be a good snug fit on the wood

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161227_121931_zpsqmcvz8xx.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161227_121931_zpsqmcvz8xx.jpg.html)

Fix 4 plastic blocks to the wood, they are used in furniture building. They take a 5mm screw without tapping

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161227_125115_zpssoerbu4h.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161227_125115_zpssoerbu4h.jpg.html)

Glue in a length of 10mm threaded rod that has been centre drilled each end. Run on a nut and washer then push in the wood plug and fit another nut and washer. Tail stock support is now possible

Nip up the screws with some protective packing

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161227_134354_zpsxk4nmj4j.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161227_134354_zpsxk4nmj4j.jpg.html)

Very carefully and slowly the ends can be trimmed square and the excess parted off

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161227_135257_zpsta4fxdwj.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161227_135257_zpsta4fxdwj.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161227_144641_zpsyz5jef7d.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161227_144641_zpsyz5jef7d.jpg.html)

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on December 28, 2016, 07:23:54 PM
I like your solution for holding the boiler tube for trimming - I have a boiler coming up on my project, have to make a simaler trim cut and will have to remember this one. One I did in the past, I flattened the end on a disc sander, was not happy with the results, this should work better. Thanks!
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: b.lindsey on December 28, 2016, 07:30:24 PM
Nice setup and pictures too Rich. Trimming tubing that far out from the chuck can be a challenge but your setup looks both safe and effective. Thanks for sharing it.

Bill
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on December 28, 2016, 07:25:59 PM
Hi

Thanks crueby & Bill.

Conway was published in model engineer magazine in 1980 and is available as a free download from the Johntom website.

Moving slowly onwards, 4 plates have to be made and flanged. The throatplate, backhead, firebox tubeplate and smokebox tubeplate. The backhead and throatplate use the same former so 3 formers are needed.

The free download is a PDF so the drawings are easily cut/copied/pasted into a drawing programme. I use Coreldraw but there are many to choose from. With a little bit of trial and error I printed out the various plates bang on actual size. I cut them out and used them as templates. Also all the holes are nicely marked out.

Formers are best made out of 1/2" steel but for one off usage other materials that are to hand can be used. The smokebox tubeplate former I made from aluminium. I had a piece very close to the size needed so very little was wasted and can be used again for something else

Turning the former

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161228_104426_zpsfxetxyuu.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161228_104426_zpsfxetxyuu.jpg.html)

The corner was radiussed

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161228_105541_zpssivzuaor.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161228_105541_zpssivzuaor.jpg.html)

Next up was the firebox tubeplate former. A bit of 2mm steel plate and what I think is a piece of Bacolite?

Cut out the pattern from the actual size printout

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161228_110134_zpsymuc7kld.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161228_110134_zpsymuc7kld.jpg.html)

Spray glue to stick it to the steel plate

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161228_110429_zpsrvjz1ebs.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161228_110429_zpsrvjz1ebs.jpg.html)

4mm countersunk socket head screws and spray glue fix it to the backing

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161228_113718_zpsinto6vmt.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161228_113718_zpsinto6vmt.jpg.html)

Hacksaw, file, grindstone, disc sander and we have this

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161228_111138_zps1jkfiwnv.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161228_111138_zps1jkfiwnv.jpg.html)

The last former is for the throatplate and backhead. I found some 3mm thick steel bars and fixed them to the backing with 4mm countersunk socket head screws. The Bacolite backing by the way tapped OK so the screws just screw in.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161228_135038_zps0hhb9rll.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161228_135038_zps0hhb9rll.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161228_141702_zpsoll7eq5y.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161228_141702_zpsoll7eq5y.jpg.html)

Cut out the template and glue on with spray glue.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161228_142121_zpshrvntvox.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161228_142121_zpshrvntvox.jpg.html)

My trusty od bandsaw removed a lot of the waste. Use a scrap of wood and long screws to make a temporary fixture.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161228_142552_zpslgrua3kv.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161228_142552_zpslgrua3kv.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161228_150843_zpsvn2tqzyz.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161228_150843_zpsvn2tqzyz.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161228_151335_zpste30d72a.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161228_151335_zpste30d72a.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161228_142552_zpslgrua3kv.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161228_142552_zpslgrua3kv.jpg.html)

Hacksaw, file , grind, disc sand

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161228_152345_zps94z1ztkd.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161228_152345_zps94z1ztkd.jpg.html)

Thats it so far. I will jump from one piece to another as and when materials are obtained so it might seem a bit disjointed at times.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on December 28, 2016, 07:35:09 PM
Sorry missed out one photo

In the mill having the sides trimmed

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161228_144930_zps9hmc1yqj.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161228_144930_zps9hmc1yqj.jpg.html)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: ironman123 on December 28, 2016, 09:06:25 PM
Nice start on the build.  Great photos. :popcorn: :popcorn:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: vcutajar on December 28, 2016, 11:31:43 PM
As others have said, love your setup photos.

Vince
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: JULIUS on December 29, 2016, 06:32:47 AM
Rich

Recently I have finished two designs of the "CONWAY" loco
The first one I drew up is for 5" gauge. The second one is for 7.25" gauge.
The second one came as a request from a person from Australia who is building the CONWAY for 7.25"
Would you or any body for that matter be interested in seeing those drawings?
Is there anybody who is building for 5" or 7.25" gauge?
I can see that your 3.5" build is going fine. I hope it will turn out to be fine machine.

kind regards

Julius
 
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on December 29, 2016, 08:22:21 AM
Hi

Thanks Ironman and Vince

Julius, I came across your plans a while back. Actually my mate Julian found them. I have printed them out and kept them in a folder, great reference material  :ThumbsUp:. Although I'm building 3 1/2" I found your 3D views very helpful.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on December 29, 2016, 07:39:08 PM
Hi

A little bit of bush turning that I'm sure needs no explanation. There are 2 for the water gauge and 3 for clack valves all the same size and thread

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161229_151855_zpsegggxitm.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161229_151855_zpsegggxitm.jpg.html)

Bagged and tagged

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161229_161347_zps8naox43r.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161229_161347_zps8naox43r.jpg.html)

the union for the blower valve was a bit more of a challenge. When it came to machining the hex I made up a split collet to hold it in the rotary table

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161229_151808_zpst5vv4fdl.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161229_151808_zpst5vv4fdl.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161229_151729_zpszryl9cu3.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161229_151729_zpszryl9cu3.jpg.html)

Its not finished yet as I don't have the specified dies.

It was at this point that I did get a bit confused. I haven't worked it out yet so perhaps you guys can take a look. I have clipped a couple of sections off the plans.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/to%20upload%20for%20mem_zpsnrdhxuru.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/to%20upload%20for%20mem_zpsnrdhxuru.jpg.html)

If you look at the drawing for the blower valve union (bottom right) you can see it specifies a thread of 3/8" X 40. Now look at the smoke box tube plate (top left) you can see the bush for the blower 3/8" X 40. so far so good.
But now look at the side view of the boiler, the bush is shown as 1/2" X 32 :noidea: :headscratch: :thinking:

The more I looked at it the more confused I got. I always find when theres a situation like this the best thing is to walk away and think about it. Eithe I'm missing something or the plans have a misprint.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on December 29, 2016, 09:50:32 PM
I'd say the tubeplate drawing is missing a central bush higher than the two 3/8 x 40 ones to take an access cap. bit like this

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Fowler%20A7/A7-boilerfront.jpg)

EDIT it is a central bush as I said but for the Steam Pipe header not a plug
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jo on December 30, 2016, 11:53:40 AM
Hi Rich the bush in the middle at the top is missing from the smokebox tubeplate drawing. It is the bush for the regulator to feed into and the feed to the superheater comes off the face.

If you find the drawing of your smokebox you should find it something like the attached drawing.

Edit: Just found it, page 1386, steam pipe header is on page 1501.

Jo
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on December 30, 2016, 01:24:05 PM
Hi

Thanks Jason and Jo.

Reading the plans/article that I downloaded from Johntom, its a scan of the original article published in 1980,  I have noticed some more bits missing or not explained. There are also a couple of references to previous published articles, Robroy and Heilan Lassie. So it looks like you are obliged to buy a set of plans. Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on December 30, 2016, 04:05:45 PM
Hopefully the proper drawings will have any revisions of items that were wrong in the articles such as the boiler drawing having the barrel 1/4" too short on the magazine drawing
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on December 30, 2016, 02:20:09 PM
Hi

Thats right jason. Hopefully I have cut the boiler to right length of 14 3/16 if not I have just *+*$=>@ an expensive piece of copper tube :'( :rant: :Mad: :cussing: :wallbang:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jo on December 30, 2016, 04:47:28 PM
Don't expect the drawings to have been corrected if they found any mistakes :ShakeHead: This is a Martin Error's design.

I tried to find Alan Stepney's old webpage as he had been collecting "features" on locomotive and model drawings but someone has brought out his URL and it is no longer available  :wallbang:

Jo
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on December 30, 2016, 06:55:20 PM
That is why I said the drawings will hopefully have been corrected.

Alan Stepney's site has been down for over a year now which is a pitty as it was the first place to go looking. A google for "Conway drawing errors" brings up a few hits mostly on ME forum

I thought it was supposed to be 14 1/4"?
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jo on December 30, 2016, 07:02:37 PM
So nothing to worry about the missing 1/16" can be lost in the overlap on the back of the smokebox if it proves to be a bit short :)

Jo
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on December 30, 2016, 07:08:57 PM
Text said the error could not be taken out by playing with the smokebox as it created other issues but that was the full 1/4" error so may not hold true for 1/16"
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jo on December 30, 2016, 07:14:20 PM
14 1/4" - 14 3/16" = 1/16"   :noidea:

Too short can be fixed by making the smokebox longer (it is not a scale loco) too long and you cut a bit more off  ::)

Edit: Taken from the Conway article page 1499: The length of the boiler barrel must be 14 1/4", not the 14" as on the drawing  :ShakeHead: page 1130/1. This means that the smokebox tube plate is set in 1 1/2" from the outer end of the barrel, not 1 1/4" so that the lengths of the tubes and flues are unaltered. This is important as if the barrel is made only 14 " long, the throat plate would foul the rear coupled wheels, unless the smokebox was pushed further to the rear or made 1/4" longer and that would require further changes.

Jo
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: mikemill on December 30, 2016, 07:56:27 PM
Rich
Regarding your steam header bush design, most people these days use O rings to seal the pipe to the header, see here

http://modeleng.proboards.com/thread/9244/smokebox-regulator-steam-pipe-fixing

O rings were not around when these engines were designed!

Mike 
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on December 30, 2016, 08:29:22 PM
14 1/4" - 14 3/16" = 1/16"   :noidea:

Too short can be fixed by making the smokebox longer (it is not a scale loco) too long and you cut a bit more off  ::)

This is important as if the barrel is made only 14 " long, the throat plate would foul the rear coupled wheels, unless the smokebox was pushed further to the rear or made 1/4" longer and that would require further changes.

Jo

Thats what I said that having to stretch the smokebox will create other issues or as ME put it "require further changes"

Question is why did Rich make it 14 3/16" and not 14 1/4"
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jo on December 30, 2016, 08:43:58 PM
I've found a quote in the article that mentions 14 3/16" a page over from the boiler drawing ::)

Rick nothing lost so far as you can extend it by modifying the smokebox to boiler adapter as shown  ;)

Jo
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Admiral_dk on December 30, 2016, 07:09:20 PM
Quote
I tried to find Alan Stepney's old webpage as he had been collecting "features" on locomotive and model drawings but someone has brought out his URL and it is no longer available  :wallbang:

Jo Ty this one or it's similar siblings https://archive.org/web/ (https://archive.org/web/)
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jo on December 30, 2016, 09:16:13 PM
Thanks Per, found it, looks like I need to copy those, I am sure Alan would want them to be available  :)

https://web.archive.org/web/20080821135852/http://www.alanstepney.info/page43.html

Looks like the length of the boiler tube is the only recognised "feature" and if it is 14 3/16" it is recoverable  8)

Jo
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on December 30, 2016, 10:30:56 PM
Looks like the length of the boiler tube is the only recognised "feature"

And a few more

"I am using an earlyish set of drawings and the ME articles. I have found that, due to increase boiler length, the back of the ashpan hits the derailment angle at the back of the frames. I will move it back. The brake rods run INSIDE the frames. The ashpan side tubes are the inner width of the frames. Drop the aspan and it hits the brake rods! Martin Evans drawing shows two brake cross members, I found, after making them, they are not necessary, the brakes are not connected side to side. Two brake rod couplings are drawn by M.Evans., a further two are required ( but with only one rod connection) for the front brake."
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on December 31, 2016, 12:17:03 AM
Hi

Oh boy oh boy oh boy

Am I glad I am a member of this forum :ThumbsUp: :whoohoo:

If I ever get this thing up and running you are all welcome to come and play choo choo's :lolb:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on January 01, 2017, 07:07:56 PM
Hi

I have ordered a set of plans from Reeves. They stock most of the castings etc for this engine so I figure their parts will suit their plans, hmmmmm or not we'll see

Made a couple of bits that don't require a lot of explanation.

A round frame stretcher

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161230_153941_zpscdpwltoh.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161230_153941_zpscdpwltoh.jpg.html)

A straight forward turning job. The plans specify bright mild steel and BA threads. I have used a bit of stainless steel because it was the only bit of 3/8" I had and tapped 4mm.

The other strethcher similarly I have used slightly differnt materials to those specified but I can't see a problem. Specified is 1/8" steel plate but I have used 3mm, only .008" thinner and I had to make a bit of angle by machining down a bit of brass angle. At the moment it is all held together with 2.5mm stainless steel cap heads instead of rivets. If they don't get in the way I'll leave them in.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161230_165540_zpsignaqv5b.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161230_165540_zpsignaqv5b.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161230_171825_zpse4emngmw.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161230_171825_zpse4emngmw.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161230_185458_zpslu7ph8ag.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161230_185458_zpslu7ph8ag.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20161230_185439_zpsa8lgc3mq.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20161230_185439_zpsa8lgc3mq.jpg.html)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on January 07, 2017, 01:54:28 PM
Hi

Well the new plans arrived and they are much clearer than the ones published in the magazine.

However I'm having one of my thick and stupid moments so need some help from you my learned collegues.  :noidea: :thinking: :old:

I have to turn a large bush, bore a large hole in the boiler and silver solder it in. This is the part ably shown by my young assistant, my grand daughter who can't wait for this to be finished.

(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff17/firebird_021/20170107_133313_zpsztsewba4.jpg) (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/firebird_021/media/20170107_133313_zpsztsewba4.jpg.html)

Now I cannot for the life of me see what fits in it.  :wallbang: Surely it has to have some holes tapped in it?

Help

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jo on January 07, 2017, 02:06:34 PM
That's under the dome and has a second half which is a "cap" which the regulator fits inside  ;)

You should find somewhere on the drawings the cap and that will show you the holes.

Jo
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on January 07, 2017, 10:11:00 PM
Hi

Thanks Jo. I've had a quick look and still can't see it   :shrug:. Lets leave that till tomorrow.

Today I made the front buffer. A nother straight forward job, just follow the plans. A couple of things worth noting though. The brass angle isn't a true 90°. Placed back to back you can see it.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170107_151603_zpsldirinmz.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170107_151603_zpsldirinmz.jpg.html)

A quick skim over one face cured the problem

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170107_152446_zpsnxqraoal.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170107_152446_zpsnxqraoal.jpg.html)

The holes have to be accurately drilled, I used the DRO on my mill

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170107_171434_zpsc4jfzk9l.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170107_171434_zpsc4jfzk9l.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170107_171444_zpsttq0fxxe.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170107_171444_zpsttq0fxxe.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170107_171516_zps3s5k3toa.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170107_171516_zps3s5k3toa.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170107_171618_zpszc8ax9gg.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170107_171618_zpszc8ax9gg.jpg.html)

Its held together with 2.5mm bolts at the moment. I'm not sure I like the plain dummy buffers so I'll leave them off for now, I might have a go at something more like real buffers

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Bluechip on January 07, 2017, 11:28:10 PM
Rich

I don't think extruded angle ever is true. I have some 2" x 2" x 1/8" Ally Angle which is all over the shop ...  ::) varies along the length, not consistent.

At one time it was possible to get milled brass angle, at least in the smaller sizes, a friend used it to make 'leccy rolling stock. The ones you solder up. Quite accurate but far from cheap though ... IIRC it was from Kittle Hobby  (??) but I don't think they do it now. Don't know if the K&S stuff is better. ( If they do it ).

Dave



Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: sweetstack on January 08, 2017, 07:31:59 AM
Hi everyone
I also would love to build my first steam locomotive.I have narrowed it down to a 7.25" gauge Marie Estelle designed by Don Young or Kozo's A3 Pennsylvania switcher.I would like to have other people's input in my decision.Great start on the Conway Rich.
Catch you later
Chris




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on January 08, 2017, 09:43:07 AM
Rich, the regulator is on page 92 of the magazine copy. Does not give number or PCD of fixings but I would think at least 8 fixings. Some people also groove the top of the bush for an O ring.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jo on January 08, 2017, 10:09:08 AM
Hi everyone
I also would love to build my first steam locomotive.I have narrowed it down to a 7.25" gauge Marie Estelle designed by Don Young or Kozo's A3 Pennsylvania switcher.I would like to have other people's input in my decision.Great start on the Conway Rich.
Catch you later
Chris

Hi Chris,

Would you like to post an introduction to yourself in the introduction section. I am sure people will be more than willing to provide there thoughts on making either of those (and it will be lost in Rich's thread  ;) )

Jo
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on January 08, 2017, 09:11:31 AM
Hi

I have took pictures of 4 of the sheets, I hope you can see them ok

(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff17/firebird_021/20170108_085511_zpsmpbpeota.jpg) (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/firebird_021/media/20170108_085511_zpsmpbpeota.jpg.html)

(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff17/firebird_021/20170108_085552_zpsxl4j0qt9.jpg) (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/firebird_021/media/20170108_085552_zpsxl4j0qt9.jpg.html)

(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff17/firebird_021/20170108_085323_zpse21vcjtg.jpg) (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/firebird_021/media/20170108_085323_zpse21vcjtg.jpg.html)

(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff17/firebird_021/20170108_085413_zpszna7rcw2.jpg) (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/firebird_021/media/20170108_085413_zpszna7rcw2.jpg.html)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jo on January 08, 2017, 09:29:46 AM
Last photo, fourth from right at the bottom. It shows the regulator insitu in that bush with the dome on it.

Jo
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on January 08, 2017, 12:16:33 PM
You can just see the ring of bolts in this photo, looks more like 12 fixings, previous photo shows that other bush you were asking about in the tubeplate. Don't look at the backhead photos though :o

http://www.stationroadsteam.co.uk/stock%20pages/2671/pages/2671-y.htm
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on January 08, 2017, 01:29:59 PM
Hi

Many thanks Jo and Jason. A picture speaks a 1000 words  :ThumbsUp:

It seems odd that such a complicated part isn't shown as seperate items  :headscratch:

But I can now have a go at the large bronze bush, which in the article there is no reference to drilling and tapping. The drilling and tapping clearly needs to be done before silver soldering into the boiler.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on January 08, 2017, 01:46:31 PM
Hi

Turned the bush. I had a suitable bit of PB.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170108_111610_zpsyognemim.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170108_111610_zpsyognemim.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170108_113900_zpsnu5u8v0o.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170108_113900_zpsnu5u8v0o.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170108_113907_zpsdmuzonwm.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170108_113907_zpsdmuzonwm.jpg.html)

Next job is to mount in the rotary table and drill and tap. 12 fixings looks about right Jason. I'll see if I can get a small groove for an O ring as well

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on January 09, 2017, 08:50:45 PM
Hi

Thinking ahead a little I have been looking at the cylinders. The thought of paying £323.00 for a pair of castings is making me ill. Looking at the drawings I think I could fabricate them. So the question is what material is best.

Brass is probably the easiest to obtain and could be silver soldered together

Cast iron. I could hack it out of the solid.

Gun metal. Julian and I are looking into building a small furnace to cast our own parts

Any thoughts :thinking:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: wagnmkr on January 10, 2017, 12:57:59 AM
As I understand it, the Conway is a version of the Hunslet.

I have this pair of Hunslet cylinder castings ... just these two pieces. I was going to use them for another project which has since been canceled.

I would be happy to measure for you.

I am in Canada, but if you are at all interested, and they will work for you, you can have them for the postage to the UK. (likely around 10 to 15 ukpounds but I can check).

Tom
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: b.lindsey on January 10, 2017, 03:53:19 AM
Nice looking bushing Rich. I agree 323.00 of a pair of cylinder castings does seem a bit steep. I don't see  why they couldn't be fabricated.

Bill
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on January 20, 2017, 09:32:37 PM
Hi

It seems my recent posts have disappeared. I'll upload the photos again over this weekend. If I miss anything out please shout up.

cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on January 21, 2017, 12:11:46 AM
Hi

It seems my recent posts have disappeared. I'll upload the photos again over this weekend. If I miss anything out please shout up.

cheers

Rich

Everyones posts are gone since the 10th. Check out the "good news and bad news" banner item on the home page, the server went belly up, they had to switch to different one with the last available backup.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on January 21, 2017, 05:46:21 PM
Hi

A quick re-cap to bring things back up to date. If anyone wants more details please shout up.

The rear buffer beam is pretty much the same as the front but has extra angle plates to support the cab floor. I don't have the angle as yet.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170114_105813_zpscgbzk5q6.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170114_105813_zpscgbzk5q6.jpg.html)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on January 21, 2017, 06:02:02 PM
Hi

A start has been made on the frames. I have made a sacrificial table from 19mm MDF. A length of 8mm square steel is fitted into the slot at the front of the mill table so that the MDF will pull up to it and always go back in the same position. Clamp it down and machine off the left hand end which is now square to the table and fit some aluminium angle.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170114_153800_zpslf4hy1xi.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170114_153800_zpslf4hy1xi.jpg.html)

4 x  10mm holes are drilled along the rear edge in line with the T slot. A length of wood is glued and pinned to the front edge

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170114_153808_zpsdv4qhxna.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170114_153808_zpsdv4qhxna.jpg.html)

The 2 frames are clamped down to the MDF table with the front edge against the wood edge and the left hand end up against the aluminium angle. The idea is that if the frames have to be removed I should be able to put them back accurately

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170114_153920_zpslfkr121j.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170114_153920_zpslfkr121j.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170114_163951_zpszmeg2br5.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170114_163951_zpszmeg2br5.jpg.html)

Using an edge finder I have located a datum at the front left hand corner. The centre of the front axle is 9" from the front of the frame with the centre of the rear axle a further 8" I just managed to get just under 18" of travel on the mill table so was able to machine the 2 hornblock openings

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170115_111041_zps9ecjiihm.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170115_111041_zps9ecjiihm.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170115_111049_zpspvfuq9ly.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170115_111049_zpspvfuq9ly.jpg.html)

To machine the rear end of the frames I am going to move the MDF table along about 9"

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on January 21, 2017, 06:14:14 PM
Hi

I have spent the afternoon trying to set up my Myford lathe, it was turning a slight taper of about .006". The remedy I discovered is to fit some raising blocks with adjustable nuts. Effectively it twists the bed, sounds crude but thats how it works. I now have it to within .001".

Looking at the plans and what material I have to see what I can make next I have decided that the motion plate/stretcher and the valve rod bushes which bolt into the motion plate would do. I only have limited time at nights so the frames will have to wait till I can get a good few hours to concentrate on them.

This is the motion plate

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/motion%20plate_zpsghozv6sr.png) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/motion%20plate_zpsghozv6sr.png.html)

And these are the bushes

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/valve%20rod%20guide_zpsdbmy7kly.png) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/valve%20rod%20guide_zpsdbmy7kly.png.html)

Can you spot the error in the drawings?

Cheers

Rich

 
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: 10KPete on January 21, 2017, 09:27:59 PM
6 vs. 4 just won't fit...    :facepalm:  :slap:

Pete
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on January 22, 2017, 01:17:49 PM
Thats it Pete  :ThumbsUp:

Martin Evans plans are apparently littered with errors so its best to check both parts before making them :thinking:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jo on January 22, 2017, 02:19:36 PM
Martin Evans plans are apparently littered with errors so its best to check both parts before making them :thinking:

I have heard it said that Martin Errors never actually designed a single engine himself (although he has his name on more model Loco drawings than anyone else) all he did was use LBSC's designs, take the various parts and make the result look like different locos. The problem was that he was not consistent in which of Curly's engines he took each part from  :facepalm: and the Draftswomen in the office were not model makers themselves so did not spot the problems as they drew them  :-\

Jo
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on January 22, 2017, 04:33:18 PM
Still, if you do as it says on the drawing an mark the holes from the guides you can't go wrong ;)
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Barneydog on January 22, 2017, 09:43:48 PM
This is the problem with all Martin Errors "work". I am building a Simplex and finding many errors with that also. It's not so bad when you spot the errors like Rich has spotted this one and as Jason states it is easily rectified using the guide as a pattern. The big problem is if we build many parts out of order as we find the necessary materials for each just to find something wrong. I and many others mourn the loss of the list of errors Alan Stepney compiled on his website before he sadly passed away. If anyone knows where it went and if it still exists I would possibly host it myself.
Good work Rich.

Regards

Julian
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: steamer on January 22, 2017, 09:50:25 PM
We should check into the Internet wayback machine..   You can go back in time and get snap shots of past web sites...

Might find it there.

Dave

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: steamer on January 22, 2017, 09:52:24 PM
https://archive.org/web/

Dave
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Barneydog on January 22, 2017, 10:53:09 PM
Found Alan's site here:-

http://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_148512544574217&key=bbb516d91daee20498798694a42dd559&libId=iy97sff2010004m6000MA381c2w1y&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fmodeleng.proboards.com%2Fthread%2F11021%2Falan-stepney%3Fpage%3D2&v=1&out=https%3A%2F%2Fweb.archive.org%2Fweb%2F20130811220810%2Fhttp%3A%2F%2Falanstepney.info%2Findex.html&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.co.uk%2F&title=Alan%20Stepney%20%7C%20Model%20Engineering%20Clearing%20House&txt=web.archive.org%2Fweb%2F20130811220810%2Fhttp%3A%2F%2Falanstepney.info%2Findex.html
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on January 26, 2017, 08:25:25 PM
Hi

Another question my learned chums. ;D

The bush for the safety valve is specified as 5/8" x 26tpi. I don't have that size tap and die in my arsenal so I'm just looking into getting some. Looking on Tracy Tools web site there are two types listed, BSC (British standard cycle) and BSB (British standard brass)

What is the difference and which one is best?

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jo on January 26, 2017, 08:42:49 PM
Buy the brass thread - it has Whitworth form which is what you want same as the other ME threads ;)

Jo
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on January 28, 2017, 08:18:26 PM
Hi

Thanks Jo, I figured that would be the one. Just to be doubly sure I have emailed the supplier I use and asked them to verify the type of 26TPI thread on the safety valves they supply.

The valve rod guides need to be turned from some phospher bronze over 3/4" diameter. I don't have any that big but it seems an awful waste to turn something that size down to 5/16" so I decided to have a go at fabricating some. The flange part is turned from brass and drilled 5/16"

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170128_141154_zpsdeutwuff.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170128_141154_zpsdeutwuff.jpg.html)

Part off 2 pieces a little over 1/8"

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170128_142526_zpsjevmnqgy.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170128_142526_zpsjevmnqgy.jpg.html)

Turn a piece of steel to 9/16" long and drill through with a 1/2" drill. Cut 2 lengths of 5/16" phospher bronze 1" long. Flux the 2 parts, stand them on the steel tube which ensures the correct length and silver solder

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170128_164507_zpsmlqiz3yp.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170128_164507_zpsmlqiz3yp.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170128_164621_zpsfyirsrrr.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170128_164621_zpsfyirsrrr.jpg.html)

They can now be held in a 5/16" collet in the lathe and turned to size.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170128_180205_zpsylbgpndo.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170128_180205_zpsylbgpndo.jpg.html)

Thats it for now. I need to buy a 3/16" reamer to finish them off

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on January 28, 2017, 11:20:03 PM
I hope to follow along!

I enjoy seeing loco builds (which I say is an engine build). That's different from a loco forum where it's not just about the engine.
So I certainly think it's appropriate here. Particularly from a long-time member (and friend).

I have to say I've thought about you several times as I go through my remodeling and new workshop. I remember when I first joined (and first started machining) and saw some of your posts of your shop with a view outside. I said that's for me!
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on January 30, 2017, 05:15:05 PM
Hi

Thanks Carl

My supplier has confirmed the safety valve 26TPI is BSB

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 04, 2017, 08:03:32 PM
Hi

The 3/16" reamer turned up so the valve rod guides have been drilled and reamed

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170204_100939_zpsrtpqm6y6.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170204_100939_zpsrtpqm6y6.jpg.html)

Most of today I have been drilling and machining the frames, pretty much just follow the plans. I don't know if its common with other plans but Martin Evans seems to take measurements from strange places. Instead of all coming from one datum point they come from both ends, top or bottom edges, from a point half way along the frame, from the centre of the horn block cut outs  :headscratch:  :noidea: I found I had to go to one place first, then move from there to another place then from there :shrug: Anyway I got most of it done with only one tiny error.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170204_165556_zpsgjaeiuda.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170204_165556_zpsgjaeiuda.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170204_165542_zpsx5aydqhp.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170204_165542_zpsx5aydqhp.jpg.html)

I used a series of drills then a 25mm blacksmith drill to open out the cut outs

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170204_164047_zps4pcxzf9r.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170204_164047_zps4pcxzf9r.jpg.html)

Followed by a 6mm cutter to cut out.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170204_135056_zpshygdla8b.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170204_135056_zpshygdla8b.jpg.html)

I had to  move the sub table along the bed and reclamp to machine the rear end

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170204_135056_zpshygdla8b.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170204_135056_zpshygdla8b.jpg.html)

We, Julian and I, are  off to our railway club tomorrow to speak to the boiler inspector. We need to know exactly whats required before we start to cut up the expensive copper  :help:

Cheers

Rich

Whoops the photos are in the wrong order  :old:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 05, 2017, 03:32:31 PM
Hi

We went to our club today, Julian and I, and spoke to one of the boiler inspectors. He's happy with the materials we have purchased and happy for us to build our boilers as per the plans.

The only deviation from the plans for me is to fit 2 safety valves in the boiler instead of the one specified as per the suggestion from SandyC. The inspector was happy with this change.

(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff17/firebird_021/Boiler%20with%202%20safety%20valve%20bushes_zpsh4y4k6o7.jpg) (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/firebird_021/media/Boiler%20with%202%20safety%20valve%20bushes_zpsh4y4k6o7.jpg.html)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 09, 2017, 09:55:00 PM
Hi

Slight change of plan. Julian and I went to the AGM of our loco club tonight and afterwards the boiler inspector had a word and said after some thought he would be happier if I stick to the published plans and have the one safety valve in the original position inside the cab area so its back to plan A.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on February 09, 2017, 11:15:51 PM
Hi Rich,

What is wrong with two safety valves?
Or why stick to published plans?

Thanks
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on February 10, 2017, 07:39:17 AM
The only reason I can thiok of is that putting them lower down on the barrel could see boiling water comming out on a full boiler where as having them at the highest point acts a bit like a steam dome so you are less likely to get water comming out just steam.

The shape of the Conway boiler with the top of the wrapper above the top level of the barrel in turn means that the the firebox crown is nearer to the top of the barrel. Drawing shows only 7/8" of which you loose at least 1/8" due to teh depth of the safety valve bushes.

Now as the top of the crown should always be covered in water that gives very little space between a crown with say 1/4" of water min over it and the bottom of the safetys. As a safety blows it will tend to suck boiling water up with it unless there is a decent space.  Think of boiling a kettle, if it has too much water in it then that starts to bubble out of teh spout if you let it boil over. This is why you often see the safety placed on a dome or in the case of traction engines it is placed ontop of the cylinder.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 10, 2017, 09:00:37 PM
Hi Carl and Jason

I'm sure he said something about the highest point now you mention it. It makes sense I suppose. At the end of the day I have to go with what he wants.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 10, 2017, 09:18:54 PM
Hi

Just been reading the plans, one of my favourite reads at the moment and spotted another error on the axle feed pump.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/feed%20pump%20jpeg_zpsmim2zozb.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/feed%20pump%20jpeg_zpsmim2zozb.jpg.html)

The thread on the pump body at the piston end is 5/8" x 26. OK so far.
Now look at the gland nut, 5/32" x 26  :thinking: :disagree: :headscratch: :facepalm: :facepalm2: :ShakeHead:
I don't think those 2 parts will fit together do you  ::)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 11, 2017, 07:32:15 PM
Hi

I have been working on the frames today. First though the front and rear buffers are starting to show signs of rust even though I have kept them in zip seal bags so I have zinc plated them.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170211_142136_zpsoxvwiqju.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170211_142136_zpsoxvwiqju.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170211_142153_zpsdax5e80f.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170211_142153_zpsdax5e80f.jpg.html)

Back to the frames. the opening for the cylinders is at an angle so the jig has to be turned.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170211_134743_zpsuvubnowi.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170211_134743_zpsuvubnowi.jpg.html)

A bit of drilling

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170211_135856_zpsycv2pil4.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170211_135856_zpsycv2pil4.jpg.html)

Then machine out

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170211_144228_zpszaheupee.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170211_144228_zpszaheupee.jpg.html)

Finally the frames are brought down to size by maching away the waste from the top edge

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170211_154139_zpsbpfvhvqv.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170211_154139_zpsbpfvhvqv.jpg.html)

A little bit of file work

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170211_170009_zpsgonzx421.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170211_170009_zpsgonzx421.jpg.html)

Then a fine sand and de-grease and spray with grey primer

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170211_172757_zpskhfk9sdx.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170211_172757_zpskhfk9sdx.jpg.html)

There are just 4 holes that I haven't drilled yet and they are for the outside motion plates. The plates are mounted at an angle, the same as the cylinder, so I will drill them to suit the job.

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 12, 2017, 03:16:52 PM
Hi

Found another error, well actually an omission. Looking through my stock to see what can go onto the to do list i came up with the outside motion plate.

(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff17/firebird_021/outside%20motion%20plate_zpsk9odtl04.jpg) (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/firebird_021/media/outside%20motion%20plate_zpsk9odtl04.jpg.html)

A clear image of where it fits is here on the drawing by JULIUS

(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff17/firebird_021/french%20plan%201_zpsazd7sfzo.jpg) (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/firebird_021/media/french%20plan%201_zpsazd7sfzo.jpg.html)

Unfortunately the 6 holes where it bolts to the frame are not shown on the plans and have not been drilled in the frames while they were in the jig in the mill

(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff17/firebird_021/frame5_zpst7ojwuil.jpg) (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/firebird_021/media/frame5_zpst7ojwuil.jpg.html)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 12, 2017, 06:24:27 PM
Hi

A start on assembling the frames. A couple of blocks of wood helping to hold things together

(http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff17/firebird_021/20170212_111041_zpsvfmrzahv.jpg) (http://s242.photobucket.com/user/firebird_021/media/20170212_111041_zpsvfmrzahv.jpg.html)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on February 12, 2017, 07:18:42 PM
Looks fantastic Rich.  :ThumbsUp:

What was the size of that drill bit you used to drill two holes before making the slot.  :o
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 12, 2017, 07:35:06 PM
Hi Carl

The rear slot  I used a 25mm and the front slot I used a 22mm from a set of blacksmiths drills I have. The plans call for 7/8" and 1" but the slot size is not critical.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: vcutajar on February 12, 2017, 08:53:32 PM
I am not into locomotives but still enjoying your build and photos.  With the assembled frames on the X3 table, it gave me a good idea of size.

Vince
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 12, 2017, 09:22:49 PM
Thanks Vince

My X3 is not the standard table it has the extra long 700mm table fitted.

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 14, 2017, 07:54:49 PM
Hi

Right then boys and girls, question time again  :facepalm: :help: :thinking: ::)

The wheels. On the plans its a simple drawing. The text from the article is short and sweet

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/wheels%20jpeg_zpsgpjc2azi.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/wheels%20jpeg_zpsgpjc2azi.jpg.html)

I'm not going to buy castings, I have some slices of 4" steel, supplied by my mate Julian  :ThumbsUp:

As the wheels are inside the frames and for the most part can't be seen I figured I would just turn them as plain discs. I can't see that there would be any balance problems but I would welcome opinions.

It does say in the text the flanges should be well radiused into the treads? What would be considered a well radius?

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on February 14, 2017, 08:07:28 PM
Easiest way would be to turn the recess all around the wheel and then cut some weights to the 5/8" width and then rivit them into place. If you do get vibration then add the hole as well.

As for the radius I'll leave that to the loco types.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 16, 2017, 07:56:47 PM
Hi

Thanks Jason  :ThumbsUp: that sounds easy enough, a clever way to get the balance weights in

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: joe d on February 16, 2017, 10:36:18 PM
Looking good, Rich.

Glad to follow along.

Cheers, Joe
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on February 17, 2017, 01:00:55 AM
The flange is tapered out thinner towards the rim, so it doesn't try to climb the rail. Not sure about the proper radiux, I would suggest checking the Gauge 1 association website, they have diagrams of wheel profiles that you could scale from.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on February 17, 2017, 07:35:28 AM
Google "loco wheel standards" and you will get what you need about angles, radius, flange size etc
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 18, 2017, 07:52:50 PM
Hi

Thanks Joe and Crueby.

From your suggested search Jason I found this

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/Wheel%20Standards_20170218193451_zpslay6zi8t.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/Wheel%20Standards_20170218193451_zpslay6zi8t.jpg.html)

I think I will have to find a scrap of something and have a go at getting the correct profile before I b****r up one of my wheel blanks.

Today I started on the inside motion plate/stretcher. Its a piece of 3/16" thick steel plate. A straight forward machining job as per the plans

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170218_172100_zpso4vgr2fp.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170218_172100_zpso4vgr2fp.jpg.html)

Plus a bit more assembly work on the frames

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170218_173251_zpsjbuqc3kr.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170218_173251_zpsjbuqc3kr.jpg.html)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 25, 2017, 08:00:27 PM
Hi

Got the valve rod guides set up in the 4 jaw on the rotary table and drilled the holes. I decided to go with 4 holes

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170225_105516_zps1jyubcra.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170225_105516_zps1jyubcra.jpg.html)

Fitted into the reamed holes in the motion plate and used as a guide to drill the holes

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170225_110953_zpsrgcwr9cm.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170225_110953_zpsrgcwr9cm.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170225_111625_zps3gupa8dt.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170225_111625_zps3gupa8dt.jpg.html)

The outside motion plate hangers took a bit of thinking about. They are made from 3/16" thick steel plate. I started by printing out an actual size drawing and sticking it to the steel plate with with spray glue.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170225_124716_zpsecg02t1v.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170225_124716_zpsecg02t1v.jpg.html)

Initially the 2 plates are bolted together through the waste portion and the the 5 angle bracket holes centre punched followed by the 4 holes for the slide bar brackets. Thes holes were then drilled. I then used one of the 5 bracket holes and drilled another hole in the waste down in the corner to keep the plates bolted together while I chopped out the waste with a hacksaw.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170225_133632_zps0nvfbinb.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170225_133632_zps0nvfbinb.jpg.html)

followed by a series of end mills

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170225_143358_zpsnisusdmj.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170225_143358_zpsnisusdmj.jpg.html)

And a T slot cutter

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170225_152624_zpssywskgai.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170225_152624_zpssywskgai.jpg.html)

Use the holes in the hanger to drill corresponding holes in the angle bracket

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170225_154831_zps2v9yqlnc.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170225_154831_zps2v9yqlnc.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170225_165942_zpshlesh6n0.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170225_165942_zpshlesh6n0.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170225_165953_zpshfewmbjh.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170225_165953_zpshfewmbjh.jpg.html)

It fits about here

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170225_170152_zpspkxfftgf.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170225_170152_zpspkxfftgf.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170225_170143_zps06jazqkj.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170225_170143_zps06jazqkj.jpg.html)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Steamer5 on February 25, 2017, 10:34:49 PM
Hi Rich,
 Looking good!
Like the use of the tee cutter to do the rebate! I'll file that away for future use!

On your wheels, the trolleys I've built the guy that did the design, David Hudson, uses a round insert, he also figured out how to put the proper curve to taper on the tire & designed a tool to do it. It all works well & is easy to do, the wheel sets are self steering & using just a single axel running on the rail the wheels wobble about then self align, interesting to watch!

Oh  :popcorn: consumption is going up!

Cheers Kerrin
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on February 26, 2017, 12:12:35 AM
Looking very good Rich!
Lots of ops for that bracket there, and it came out great!
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 27, 2017, 03:10:26 PM
Hi

Thanks Kim

Kerrin, thanks. Julian and I went to another loco club yesterday much closer to home so we have decided to join that one. We spoke to the boiler inspector and he is quite happy for us to go ahead and make our boilers as long as we stick to the published plans, fair enough.

On the wheels he said its ok to stick to the published design as the club track is made of flat steel sections. I think I will angle the flange slightly though.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Steamer5 on March 01, 2017, 03:41:37 AM
Hi Rich,
 That's good, all the tracks here in NZ are made from flat bar, with Davids desgin the wheels are correctly coned as per full size. He reckoned that doing them this way would work fine for a loco.

Cheers Kerrin
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 04, 2017, 08:20:11 PM
Hi

Today I turned my attention to the axles. These require some fairly precise turning. I decided that to make life easier and hopefully more accurate some sort of DRO would be needed. A cheapo 6" digital calipre was sacrificed. These things are really hard and almost impossible to drill so I attacked them with a Dremmel type tool and fitted with a diamond cut off disc.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170227_141409_zpsticeyzml.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170227_141409_zpsticeyzml.jpg.html)

A few bits of alluminium saw them mounted on the lathe

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170304_181842_zpsv8s6dhto.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170304_181842_zpsv8s6dhto.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170304_181837_zpsr7ssr7fk.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170304_181837_zpsr7ssr7fk.jpg.html)

The alluminium block that the rear jaw bolts to has a thumb screw underneath that allows it to slide along the alluminium angle and be locked in the required position. It gives about 5 3/4" of movement.

It has proved to be a great success, One day I'll make a proper job of it  ::)

One axle has been turned

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170304_152631_zpsup4hatlg.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170304_152631_zpsup4hatlg.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170304_184819_zpsj8izfh6m.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170304_184819_zpsj8izfh6m.jpg.html)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: JULIUS on March 05, 2017, 12:50:17 AM
Rich

I see on two pictures that you use some of my drawings. Are they any help? You know that my drawings are for a 5" engine!

Julius
 
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 05, 2017, 08:20:47 AM
Hi Julius

Yes I know they are for 5" but they have been very useful as general arrangement drawings, helps me to visualise where things go :ThumbsUp:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 05, 2017, 04:16:30 PM
Hi

A pair of axles

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170305_100442_zpshcvvs2w8.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170305_100442_zpshcvvs2w8.jpg.html)

I'm quite pleased with them, accurate to within a thou. I should have fitted DRO's to the lathe long ago :facepalm:

One of the wheel blanks has been turned to 1/2" thick, bored and reamed 9/16" and the recess machined. 3 more to go then turn a mandrel to mount them on and turn the tread and flange

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170305_122541_zpsmeiaebmf.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170305_122541_zpsmeiaebmf.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170305_130139_zpsvuvi11ys.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170305_130139_zpsvuvi11ys.jpg.html)

I will need a short length of track. 6 pieces of alluminium offcuts have 12mm slots machined 3 1/2" apart

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170305_150032_zpsnluoa0qt.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170305_150032_zpsnluoa0qt.jpg.html)

2 lengths of 12mm square steel 3 foot long. I know I know imperial and metric in the same sentence :naughty:

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170305_151833_zpsujakx17s.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170305_151833_zpsujakx17s.jpg.html)

I just have to screw them down to a bit of MDF now

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 09, 2017, 08:00:24 PM
Hi

Drilled and tapped 5mm and held together with 5mm countersunk socket head screws

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170309_181835_zpsgiczye4u.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170309_181835_zpsgiczye4u.jpg.html)

Screwed down to a bit of MDF

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170309_182826_zpszzaqvoxo.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170309_182826_zpszzaqvoxo.jpg.html)

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 12, 2017, 04:57:06 PM
Hi

The 4 wheel blanks have been turned to 1/2" in width, bored and reamed. 2 of them I have machined the recess. For some reason I found this hard work, changing from left hand tools to right hand then back again so I am going to have a go at the last 2 in the mill on the rotary table.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170312_120908_zpsalmc7ffs.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170312_120908_zpsalmc7ffs.jpg.html)

I have turned a mandrel, drilled and tapped 8mm to hold the wheels to turn the tread and flange.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170312_120921_zpsrnzcsowl.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170312_120921_zpsrnzcsowl.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170312_121004_zps89eblqfi.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170312_121004_zps89eblqfi.jpg.html)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 19, 2017, 05:11:01 PM
Hi

I found a round cutting tool which is ideal to turn the tread leaving a nice radius into the flange

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170318_170906_zpsobaqegyg.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170318_170906_zpsobaqegyg.jpg.html)

To round off the flange I have made a form tool. A piece of silver steel is held in the vise at an angle and has a 3/32 hole (the width of the flange) drilled through. Holding the silver steel at an angle while drilling gives a relief angle to the cutting edge.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170318_171754_zpsoqz9lokj.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170318_171754_zpsoqz9lokj.jpg.html)

Then machine away the end to half way across the hole. Heat treat to harden, I didn't bother to temper it. Clean up with a diamond file

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170318_173355_zpsa7btvvmi.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170318_173355_zpsa7btvvmi.jpg.html)

A disc of alluminium was used as a test piece

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170318_174217_zpsrd8q4cts.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170318_174217_zpsrd8q4cts.jpg.html)

The cutter worked really well



Turning the steel wheel

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170318_174155_zpsafaeql89.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170318_174155_zpsafaeql89.jpg.html)

Then slipped them onto the axle

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170318_175210_zpspfsficel.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170318_175210_zpspfsficel.jpg.html)

I couldn't resist dropping the frame on to see how things look

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170318_175325_zpsc52ccsyw.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170318_175325_zpsc52ccsyw.jpg.html)

Cheers

Rich



Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on March 19, 2017, 06:19:53 PM
Nice!

Using the form tool helps ensure the flanges on all the wheels look the same. I'll have to remember that.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Roger B on March 19, 2017, 07:47:36 PM
Looking good  :ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp:  :wine1:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Admiral_dk on March 19, 2017, 08:35:21 PM
Quote
I couldn't resist dropping the frame on to see how things look

I'm not sure that you belong here if you could  :D - nice build  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 25, 2017, 11:21:26 PM
Hi

Thanks Carl Roger and Admiral

All 4 wheels now have the turning finished. A slight lack of attention on one wheel  :old: saw it machined differently to the other 3 so I have re machined them so that they are all equal. Not quite to plans but near enough and they are all the same.

I have cut 2 pieces of 1/4" thick steel plate and held them on the wheel mandrel

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170325_162745_zpsk1y741oo.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170325_162745_zpsk1y741oo.jpg.html)

Then turned them to the diameter of the the recess in the wheels

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170325_171039_zpsz4fvpjuk.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170325_171039_zpsz4fvpjuk.jpg.html)

The balance weights will be cut from these

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170325_171247_zpskqhinxvs.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170325_171247_zpskqhinxvs.jpg.html)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on March 26, 2017, 02:10:19 AM
Sorry about the re-do on the wheels Rich, but they sure are looking good now!
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 26, 2017, 08:02:01 PM
Hi

Thanks Kim

I made a boss from alluminium and sunk it into a scrap of wood

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170326_162153_zpsnhzsbnvk.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170326_162153_zpsnhzsbnvk.jpg.html)

Cut off in the bandsaw

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170326_162352_zpsvdxdwt2e.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170326_162352_zpsvdxdwt2e.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170326_163853_zpsjwfzfn8l.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170326_163853_zpsjwfzfn8l.jpg.html)

In the mill to machine to 5/8"

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170326_172701_zpsbo2rbees.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170326_172701_zpsbo2rbees.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170326_173313_zpsjelakbp3.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170326_173313_zpsjelakbp3.jpg.html)

A nice fit

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170326_173328_zpsxkc1m5ai.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170326_173328_zpsxkc1m5ai.jpg.html)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on March 26, 2017, 10:35:37 PM
That's pretty slick Rich.  Are you going to solder them in place?

Looks like you might have been able to get 3 weights out of one circle.  That wouldn't have helped you much when you need 4 weights, but if you needed 5 or 6 then you could save a disk!
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 27, 2017, 08:02:41 PM
Hi Kim

I think I will fix them in with 1 countersunk screw and a bit of loctite

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on March 27, 2017, 11:01:24 PM
I can't wait to see more. Making up the wheels is very interesting.  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 29, 2017, 08:09:42 PM
Hi

Thanks Kim and Carl

My rotary table has a 4 jaw chuck permanently fitted so I mounted the mandrel in that to hold the wheels for drilling.

The 2 driving wheels have a 1/2" hole drilled opposite the balance weights

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170329_175854_zps2rozsar9.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170329_175854_zps2rozsar9.jpg.html)

The balance weights have been drilled 3.3mm and countersunk, then used as a guide to spot through to the wheel.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170329_180251_zps3gxtxi5z.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170329_180251_zps3gxtxi5z.jpg.html)

The wheels are then tapped 4mm and the balance weights have their holes opened out to 4mm. The weights are attached to the wheels with 4mm countersunk socket head screws.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170329_183339_zpsh0ulu9vq.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170329_183339_zpsh0ulu9vq.jpg.html)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on April 02, 2017, 08:08:39 PM
Hi

The wheels have been assembled with a little car body filler

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170401_132830_zpsndpoew49.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170401_132830_zpsndpoew49.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170401_133225_zpsi5rgm6lr.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170401_133225_zpsi5rgm6lr.jpg.html)

Once set they are rubbed down and cleaned and have a coat of primer

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170401_170135_zpstoh1gyuy.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170401_170135_zpstoh1gyuy.jpg.html)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: 90LX_Notch on April 02, 2017, 08:50:59 PM
Nice work Rich.  I have been silently following along.

-Bob
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on April 02, 2017, 10:47:11 PM
Thanks Bob :ThumbsUp:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on April 08, 2017, 08:18:52 PM
Hi

I have finished the outside motion brackets. I found the riveting of the small brackets difficult so in the end countersunk the holes with a centre drill

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170401_143850_zpshlykavp2.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170401_143850_zpshlykavp2.jpg.html)

Peaned the rivet over into the countersink then filed flush

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170404_174940_zpsrt4c0wuo.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170404_174940_zpsrt4c0wuo.jpg.html)

1 bracket has been primered, the other ready to be painted.

2 more stretchers have been made. Straight forward enough as per the plans. They double as stretchers and safety angles. In case of a de-railment they will help prevent damage to the motion

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170408_174943_zpsxhdo40cu.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170408_174943_zpsxhdo40cu.jpg.html)

They fit here

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170408_175139_zps7vfqmdjy.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170408_175139_zps7vfqmdjy.jpg.html)

Moving swiftly on to the horn blocks, I purchased the gun metal castings.

Unfortunately Martin Errors has struck again  :wallbang:. Completely threw me for a while

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/hornblock%20actual%20size_zpsjmdx4aoz.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/hornblock%20actual%20size_zpsjmdx4aoz.jpg.html)

He has the height of the horn block as 2 5/16". Thats wrong :ShakeHead: As far as I can see it should be about 1 3/4"

The castings themselves are in pairs so maching a pair at a time should make them identicle. Seperate them after the machining is finished. There is very little room for error, the castings are only a few thou over size in places.

Just one shot of cleaning up and bringing to size

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170408_144708_zpscy4xow6u.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170408_144708_zpscy4xow6u.jpg.html)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: vcutajar on April 08, 2017, 09:20:18 PM
Good progress Rich.

Vince
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on April 08, 2017, 09:51:01 PM
Great work.

Loved the wheels too.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on April 15, 2017, 10:00:49 AM
Hi

Thanks Vince and Carl

A few shots of machining the horn blocks

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170408_144708_zpscy4xow6u.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170408_144708_zpscy4xow6u.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170414_161254_zpskqopkevq.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170414_161254_zpskqopkevq.jpg.html)

The first casting came out ok, just enough material to machine but very tight. The second casting however was slightly undersize in a couple of places before I started. I couldn't find a decent enough straight edge to start from. whichever way I tried there was always something out  :wallbang: If I got the edges straight the oblong hole was out and vise versa. In the end I made the best of it, making sure the axle box part was true with the mounting. Because they are mounted from inside the frames very little can be seen and I'm not building this to be a show standard engine just something I can play with. Perhaps I should have sent the casting back and asked for a replacment. I think with hind sight I would be better off making them myself from steel or cast iron.

Anyway they are done

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170414_183323_zps6lzmvpmb.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170414_183323_zps6lzmvpmb.jpg.html)

I have been looking at the boiler and trying to get things straight in my mind. I have some of the materials but need to order the rest so I have mocked up a rough shape.

A piece of plastic tube has a piece slit out and re-glued

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170414_114001_zpsn1xqwm50.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170414_114001_zpsn1xqwm50.jpg.html)

I have printed out the various plates actual size and spray glued them to some card

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170412_181226_zpsehy52dzn.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170412_181226_zpsehy52dzn.jpg.html)

Cut them out and roughly assemble

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170414_131552_zpsjax0xekk.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170414_131552_zpsjax0xekk.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170414_131610_zpszuu8qdzn.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170414_131610_zpszuu8qdzn.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170414_122748_zpsu2wnqkl0.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170414_122748_zpsu2wnqkl0.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170414_131753_zps3svkp4m8.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170414_131753_zps3svkp4m8.jpg.html)

From this I have measured for the inner and outer wrappers with a bit of string to gauge how much copper plate I need.

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on April 16, 2017, 06:47:36 PM
Hi

Continuing with working out the materials needed I have come across another error.

Looking at the following section of the plans

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/wrapper%20size._zpsamk5teiv.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/wrapper%20size._zpsamk5teiv.jpg.html)

Look at the dimensions in the lower right hand corner and it shows the firebox wrapper as 1/16" (1.6mm) but in the text it says 3/32" (2.5mm)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/boiler%20text_zpswr96sodp.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/boiler%20text_zpswr96sodp.jpg.html)

I'm assuming It should be 3/32". 1/16" sounds way to thin

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Admiral_dk on April 16, 2017, 08:25:31 PM
I see both dimension at the bottom right corner - 1.6mm on the inner and 2.5mm on the outer "sheet".

I don't know about you .... but I often look so hard that I overlook important parts / prints / dimensions  :old:

Best wishes

Per
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on April 16, 2017, 08:40:27 PM
I see both dimension at the bottom right corner - 1.6mm on the inner and 2.5mm on the outer "sheet".

I don't know about you .... but I often look so hard that I overlook important parts / prints / dimensions  :old:

Best wishes

Per
I think his point was that the drawing shows 1.6mm for the inner sheet, while the text says 2.5mm for that same inner sheet.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on April 16, 2017, 11:00:34 PM
Not knowing anything at all, or what I'm talking about...

Could that 1/16 in the drawing be that feature to the inside of the inner wrapper?
That is, the 1/16 dimension should be to the left?

The text talks about wrapping the inner wrapper around the firebox tubeplate and backplate.

What's the thickness of the firebox tubeplate and backplate?

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on April 17, 2017, 08:13:11 AM
Hi Carl

they are the same 3/32" (2.5mm)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/boiler.jpg%201_zpsjsbrd11l.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/boiler.jpg%201_zpsjsbrd11l.jpg.html)

Gets confusing doesn't it  :thinking: :headscratch: :noidea:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on April 17, 2017, 09:15:43 AM
If in doubt check with boiler inspector or go with the thicker option. You will need to size for formers to allow for the extra thickness or machine down the 3/8" foundation ring material by 1/16"  (2 x 1/32") Think I would reduce the plate sizes rather than the waterspace.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on April 17, 2017, 12:34:51 PM
Hi Jason

I'm pretty confident it's another typo error. I can't see the firebox wrapper being as thin as 1/16".

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on April 17, 2017, 04:10:15 PM
Hi

Changing the subject completely we move onto the axle boxes. Conway is designed to have leaf springs. Made partly from spring steel and partly from tufnol. Speaking to some of the blokes down the railway club the advise is convert it to coil springs, much easier to set up. Fit dummy leaf springs if you want but don't bother trying to make them.

Ok so first job was to knock up a couple of drawings then machine a block of ally as a test piece to size

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/new%20axle%20block_zpsjt3o4wo9.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/new%20axle%20block_zpsjt3o4wo9.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170417_094953_zpsnuqjsaii.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170417_094953_zpsnuqjsaii.jpg.html)

Drill through 4mm

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170417_101408_zpsvsv8bg04.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170417_101408_zpsvsv8bg04.jpg.html)

In the bandsaw to chop off one end

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170417_101641_zpsdv1p9l9d.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170417_101641_zpsdv1p9l9d.jpg.html)

Machine to size and bolt together, drill and ream i/2" on the joint

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170417_110131_zps82acrsy3.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170417_110131_zps82acrsy3.jpg.html)

Machine both sides

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170417_112601_zpsfpwuh7fb.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170417_112601_zpsfpwuh7fb.jpg.html)

And we have this. Not bad. The long socket head screws won't be used on the final axle boxes but will be studs. Coil springs will fit on the studs that stick through the keep plates

Cheers

Rich

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170417_113534_zps2xflafnr.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170417_113534_zps2xflafnr.jpg.html)
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on April 24, 2017, 08:38:34 PM
Hi

I'm looking into sourcing some cast iron for the cylinders. Working out the best way to do it I decided to mock one up in wood. Starting with a couple of bits of scrap cut roughly to size

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170423_093709_zpscgiqgos0.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170423_093709_zpscgiqgos0.jpg.html)

Glued and clamped

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170423_094204_zpsjcrv8eya.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170423_094204_zpsjcrv8eya.jpg.html)

After curing the block was trimmed to final size in the bandsaw. I printed out the the cylinder drawings actual size and stuck them to the block

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170424_184935_zpsa3bhqgsj.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170424_184935_zpsa3bhqgsj.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170424_185010_zpsofnhik4u.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170424_185010_zpsofnhik4u.jpg.html)

Quite a lump

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on April 24, 2017, 10:04:38 PM
Thats a good way to go, making a dry run with wood parts first before committing to that much metal cutting on a complex part. Watching along...

 :popcorn:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on April 25, 2017, 07:56:22 PM
Hi

And bear in mind I have to make 2 of them.  ::)

Being able to hold it in my hand and look at it helps. I may be able to get away with a smaller block by doing away with the little lumpy bit on top. The bit that fits through the cutout in the frames on top of the oblong cylinder hole. I think the main steam pipe connects into it so I might be able to make that bit seperately and screw it in.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on April 26, 2017, 07:58:34 PM
Hi

A bit of work on the cylinder.

Cut away for the mounting flanges

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170426_183845_zpsavelb79h.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170426_183845_zpsavelb79h.jpg.html)

And bore

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170426_183905_zpshgbdjfep.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170426_183905_zpshgbdjfep.jpg.html)

Not too sure about the finish though, it might need honing  :Lol: :ROFL: :lolb:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: 90LX_Notch on April 26, 2017, 08:35:52 PM
I like the wooden block idea Rich.  Along the same lines, years ago I remember reading about homemade machineable wax made from plastic containers. 


-Bob
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: ddmckee54 on April 26, 2017, 10:43:41 PM
Bob:

That comment reminded me that I had seen something about machineable was over on Allow Avenue, which pointed me to here:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Machinable-Wax/

Don
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on April 29, 2017, 08:55:03 PM
Hi

A bit more woodwork. I tried to work out the best way to go about it. Heres a few photos of the progress.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170429_124632_zpsjwvtcapq.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170429_124632_zpsjwvtcapq.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170429_125101_zpskn3myvsh.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170429_125101_zpskn3myvsh.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170429_130152_zps0phznknh.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170429_130152_zps0phznknh.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170429_130359_zpsbed5g1eg.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170429_130359_zpsbed5g1eg.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170429_131932_zpsgc12as4f.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170429_131932_zpsgc12as4f.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170429_133052_zpshqu4ugxx.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170429_133052_zpshqu4ugxx.jpg.html)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: vcutajar on April 29, 2017, 09:11:52 PM
Following along in the background Rich.  Did you use the milling machine for the wooden cylinder?

Vince
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on April 29, 2017, 10:54:07 PM
Hi Vince

No I have a wood cutting vertical bandsaw. I cut it all out with that. The same could be done with a mill though.

cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on May 01, 2017, 03:43:45 PM
Hi

A bit more wood work, the last bit I think

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170501_113426_zpsswqq8tkx.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170501_113426_zpsswqq8tkx.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170501_113422_zpskqcv0akv.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170501_113422_zpskqcv0akv.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170501_114751_zps6o0rgerv.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170501_114751_zps6o0rgerv.jpg.html)

From here the cylinder could be held in a rotary table and rounded off a bit.

I'm happy that I can hack the cylinders out of a solid lump.

I need to source some material now.

cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on May 06, 2017, 08:45:06 PM
Hi

Back to the axle boxes.

I am making them in pairs and from cast iron.

The 2 halves have been machined to size, drilled and tapped 4mm and bolted together. then drilled and reamed 1/2".

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170506_151837_zpslcshgn5x.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170506_151837_zpslcshgn5x.jpg.html)

The pair of axle boxes held in the vise and machined together

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170506_160457_zpsjksuotkc.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170506_160457_zpsjksuotkc.jpg.html)

The bolts are replaced with studs

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170506_164326_zpsqlgt0c4p.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170506_164326_zpsqlgt0c4p.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170506_164444_zpstl6g5bb7.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170506_164444_zpstl6g5bb7.jpg.html)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on May 06, 2017, 11:10:41 PM
 :popcorn: :popcorn:

I'm thinking this is one of your bigger projects. True?

What got you interested in it?
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on May 07, 2017, 12:49:24 PM
Hi Carl

Yes its the biggest project so far.

What got me interested in it, well briefly this

Me and my good mate Julian have been into anything steam/mechanical/electrical/gadgets for years. We have built a few small steam engines and boilers along the way, and my portable engine is on its way although that has taken a back seat.

What we really needed/wanted was something we could ride on. Julian has built an electric powered traction engine but steam power is the thing we really wanted.

Traction engines would be best we thought, they don't need rails to run on and we can ride round the garden. 

Traction engines however are expensive, and they need large boilers and boiler certificates, beyond our pockets at the present.

But then I came across PYRTE. That stands for pull you round traction engine. I won't go into details but you can see it here

http://www.steamshed.com/

This is buildable and within budget. So having found ourselves with a traction engine we can build we still have to get a boiler certificate to be able to run it in public.

Off we went to one of our local railway clubs to see the boiler inspector and discuss what was needed. We joined there and then.

We stood there watching all these grown men riding around on steam trains and we said   

 I GOT TO GET ME ONE OF THEM

Once smitten we set off down another road  ::) railroad that is

Which brings us to where we are today

Lots of things on the to do list :Lol: :shrug: :whoohoo: :cartwheel: :naughty: :lolb:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on May 07, 2017, 03:28:21 PM
Hi

The hornstay I have made from brass

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170507_104246_zpsuo178ca2.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170507_104246_zpsuo178ca2.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170507_104357_zpsmh7tha7r.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170507_104357_zpsmh7tha7r.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170507_104409_zpsfmdlajh8.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170507_104409_zpsfmdlajh8.jpg.html)

Drilled and tapped 3mm and bolted on. 2 holes drilled for the studs tp pass through. Springs and nuts fitted.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170507_114143_zpsqyuxhszd.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170507_114143_zpsqyuxhszd.jpg.html)

We now have under slung springs. I need to try it in the frames and check clearances but if all is ok I can make the other 3.  Having said that I'm not happy with the hornblocks, the castings weren't that good. I might remake the hornblocks in steel

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: g0rph on May 07, 2017, 08:40:04 PM
Hi All,

I wonder if I may join the "gang"?

I have been reading the postings for a short while and am impressed with your work, Rich, and particularly intersted in your minimal use of the expensive castings for your project!

I am currently running a Conway while undertaking fairly extensive repairs to the loco which was bought in relatively poor condition.   It is interesting therefore to see how you are tackling the problems!

It is also interesting to note the drawing errors you have spotted....some I had already found, others were new to me!

Enough for now!   I will look forward to the comments!

Richard.

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on May 07, 2017, 10:14:37 PM
Hi Richard

glad to have you join us.

Let us know a bit more about yourself, location etc.

Maybe you could put up a few pics of your Conway

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on May 08, 2017, 01:51:40 AM
Hey Rich...loved your answer to my question as to what got you onto this project.

 :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on May 09, 2017, 08:31:35 PM
Hi Carl

Nothing wrong with a chat every now and then  :ThumbsUp:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: g0rph on May 09, 2017, 09:13:16 PM
Hi Rich,

Thanks for the welcome!    In response to your questions, I am retired and currently living about 10 miles to the north of Lincoln (UK).   My mechanical hobby interests lie both in steam locomotives and in clocks.   I have been building a Rob Roy for a number of years, and have just finished the boiler, but wanted to get steaming with my own loco (its not the same driving other peoples!).   So I bought an ageing Conway and have been repairing it while running it at the Club.   

There is still a lot to do but the following photo shows the current state of the engine.   Next task is to strip the LH cylinder as one of the studs has given way (its not leaking - yet!).   Also, for some reason the LH piston rod is MS while the RH is stainless, so I need to investigate that!

First task though is to find out why RobRoys crosshead pump is not working correctly.  A redesign is likely!

Looking forward to following your postings!

Richard.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: g0rph on May 09, 2017, 09:17:12 PM
Can someone advise why the picture I posted above is so small?   Does it need to be a larger file size? 

Richard (still learning the foibles of this site!)
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Bluechip on May 09, 2017, 09:22:40 PM
Looks OK to me ..  :thinking:     Almost a full screen.

I do have to click the 'thumbnail' version,  but AFAIK all pics. are like that.

Dave
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Ken K on May 09, 2017, 09:26:03 PM
 If you "click", on the picture,you will get an 8" X 10" picture.
Ken K
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: g0rph on May 09, 2017, 09:33:56 PM
Thanks guys,   I wasn't waiting long enough for it to load!

Richard.

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: g0rph on May 09, 2017, 09:42:23 PM
And.......one of yours truly driving on the first run after purchase.   Our Club boiler inspector came along for the run after he had tested the  boiler.

Richard.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on June 18, 2017, 09:27:29 PM
Hi

Its been a while since I got anything done but today is Fathers day so my choice to have a day in the workshop. :cartwheel:

A fresh attempt at the horn blocks. I said earlier that the bronze castings weren't very good and I wasn't happy with them. So looking at some other engines I have copied this idea. The axle boxes are made of cast iron and will incorporate under slung coil springs. The horn blocks I have made from steel which is rated as excellent for working with cast iron.

Started by maching 4 pieces of 5/8"  X  3/8" steel then cut each piece in half

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170618_142107_zpsjc17nxnw.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170618_142107_zpsjc17nxnw.jpg.html)

I have marked each piece to keep them in pairs. Machine to length

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170618_152557_zpscpucmkyp.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170618_152557_zpscpucmkyp.jpg.html)

A trial fit in the frames and they are 100% better than the bronze casting.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170618_142258_zpstekath84.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170618_142258_zpstekath84.jpg.html)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on June 20, 2017, 07:57:48 PM
Hi

A question my learned friends   :thinking:

I have been looking at the eccentrics

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/eccentric%203_zpshwyymgtn.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/eccentric%203_zpshwyymgtn.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/eccentric%204_zpso6rhaskf.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/eccentric%204_zpso6rhaskf.jpg.html)

5 in all. The centre one which drives the axle feed pump is not a problem, it will go in any position.

The outer pairs present a problem when it comes to setting up. The grub screws are underneath the eccentric straps which means the straps have to be removed to make any adjustment, a bit of a pain.  I was thinking of machining an extra boss on the inner 2 eccentrics with a grub screw and pinning the outer eccentrics to the inner making initial adjustment easier. Once set I can remove the straps and nip up the grub screws in the eccentrics.

My question is are the pairs of eccentrics set at 180° to each other if so it would fairly easy to pin them at 180°.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on June 20, 2017, 08:12:26 PM
No they are  less than 180deg, they would be twice the lead so maybe 10-20 degrees less
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on June 20, 2017, 08:18:19 PM
The drawings for my Fowler show better how the two eccentrics are positioned, the two Centre Lines are the line through the max throw of the eccentrics. That is for Stephensons valve gear
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on June 21, 2017, 08:29:41 PM
Hi

Thanks Jason.

I think I will make the inner pair with a boss to make things easier.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: malc on June 21, 2017, 09:09:35 PM
Another possibility is to drill a small hole in the eccentric strap to give access for a screwdriver / allen key.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 01, 2017, 09:00:27 PM
Hi

Thanks Malc, thats a possibility

A bit more work on the horn blocks

I need 4 horn stays. These differ from the plans because I am using under slung coil springs. They need to be increased to 5/8" in width.

A 12" piece of 5/8" X 3/16" is marked out and drilled 6mm along its centre line

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170701_143907_zpseqqqy1l4.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170701_143907_zpseqqqy1l4.jpg.html)

Then mounted on a bit of MDF that has corresponding holes drilled in it to accept T nuts and studs. Checked to make sure its true.

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170701_152544_zpsjhrmkxwk.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170701_152544_zpsjhrmkxwk.jpg.html)

Machined to 1 3/4"

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170701_163357_zpsujijqvng.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170701_163357_zpsujijqvng.jpg.html)

4 holes drilled in each stay. 2 for mounting onto the hornblocks and 2 for the studs to pass through. Each stud will have a coil spring fitted

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170701_171515_zpsyljyoqh7.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170701_171515_zpsyljyoqh7.jpg.html)

chopped off in the bandsaw

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170701_172533_zpsqdbuvgzo.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170701_172533_zpsqdbuvgzo.jpg.html)

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170701_173503_zpsbyce1clj.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170701_173503_zpsbyce1clj.jpg.html)

A trial fit

(http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y335/rich_wightman/20170701_173306_zps5agflkno.jpg) (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/rich_wightman/media/20170701_173306_zps5agflkno.jpg.html)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 02, 2017, 09:06:58 AM
(http://www.use.com/images/s_1/a294b85a133626d6a534.jpg) (http://www.use.com/MjSTb)
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 02, 2017, 09:08:56 AM
Hi

I have just posted the above photo with the site Marv suggested    use.com         

Not sure how to make the image larger yet

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 03, 2017, 08:42:36 PM
(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/965f86daf6dcaa718491.jpg) (http://www.use.com/MjWgy)(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/MjWgy)
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 03, 2017, 08:43:56 PM
Hi

I have signed up to USE.com and the images now come out full size when posting

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: g0rph on July 04, 2017, 01:45:09 PM
Hi Rich,

While you have your frames apart, you may like to give some thought to a “gotcha” which is present on my engine and also on at least one other that I have looked at.

As drawn, the boiler blow-down bushes align nicely with the rear frame opening. However it is not at all easy to put the bush where Martin drew it.   Most of the thickness of the foundation ring needs to be machined away (at least over part of its width) to allow a decent length of thread in the bush.   This creates a weakness that some boiler inspectors might not be too happy about.  Also the foundation ring partially obstructs the bush outlet (unless machined away even more).

The drawings don’t seem to cover this issue in detail, and these bushes are not even drawn, as far as I can see?

It is much more practical to fit the bushes about 7mm higher, thus taking them clear of the foundation ring, while still allowing the bore of the bush to be almost at the level of the top of the foundation ring.   This also gives a full bore outlet of course.

Doing so, however, means that the valves will not fit in the frame openings and the openings needs enlarging upwards on their leading edges.

Maybe you can fit those bushes as drawn, or even think of another solution?   

Best wishes,   

Richard.



Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 04, 2017, 07:58:23 PM
Hi Richard

I had wondered about those bushes going through the foundation ring but decided to leave it until the bridge had to be crossed so to speak.

Thanks for bringing it to my notice.  :ThumbsUp:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 09, 2017, 09:03:00 AM
Hi

Well it seems those nice $%)(*&^   :Mad:  :cussing:  :killcomputer:(people) over at photosuckit have seen fit to disable all my photos.

I doubt I will have the patience to upload them all again but if there is anything in particular anyone wants to see I'll do my best to find them again.

From now on I'll use   Use.com

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 29, 2017, 08:24:15 PM
Hi

Well its been a while since I posted anything of the progress with Conway thanks largely to photosuckit  :censored:

I'm now using Use.com, it seems to be ok.

I have been doing some work to the axle boxes and horns. Conway has a leaf spring system which according to the members at our club are a pain in the proverbial to make and even even harder to get them balanced. Sure they look good but the idea behind this engine is to build something simple to drive and maintain so I have opted to go over to coil springs. It has taken a bit of working out but I'm getting there now. The cast bronze hornblocks that I purchased were very poor and really I should have sent them back but hey ho too late for that now. I have made steel horns and cast iron axle boxes.

The frames were disassembled and put back into the jig I made. A datum found and 16 x 2.5mm holes drilled

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/d6247d9291d5be4e1355_1.jpg) (http://www.use.com/d6247d9291d5be4e1355?p=1)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/d6247d9291d5be4e1355?p=1)
(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/d6247d9291d5be4e1355_2.jpg) (http://www.use.com/d6247d9291d5be4e1355?p=2)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/d6247d9291d5be4e1355?p=2)
(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/d6247d9291d5be4e1355_3.jpg) (http://www.use.com/d6247d9291d5be4e1355?p=3)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/d6247d9291d5be4e1355?p=3)
(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/d6247d9291d5be4e1355_4.jpg) (http://www.use.com/d6247d9291d5be4e1355?p=4)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/d6247d9291d5be4e1355?p=4)

The horns are drilled and tapped 2.5mm and each horn held in place with 4 x 2.5mm button head stainless steel screws.

The split axle boxes have long 4mm stainless steel studs fitted. 2 brass nuts hold the two halves together then the studs pass through the horn stays and have springs and nyloc nuts fitted.

A bit of video

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/31d8827d13d508737cde.jpg) (http://www.use.com/2017_07_29_2_31d8827d13d508737cde)

I still have a lot of work to do, the axles boxes need oil holes drilling, the studs will have a joining plate under the nyloc nuts etc but I'm getting there

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on July 29, 2017, 09:00:37 PM
Thanks for the update Rich, its looking good!

The pictures are coming through fine. But for some reason, I can't see the video.  When I click on the video, it takes me to use.com, but still doesn't give me anyway to see your video.  Do you know what I need to do?

Thanks!
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 29, 2017, 09:13:34 PM
Hi

Thanks Kim

I don't know about the video. I have just clicked on it and it takes me to use.com and the video plays???

Anyone else have any problems viewing it.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on July 29, 2017, 10:36:53 PM
Video works here, chrome browser on Android tablet. Looks good!
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: b.lindsey on July 30, 2017, 01:17:01 AM
Works for me, nice looking arrangement too.

Bill
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Steamer5 on July 30, 2017, 04:04:48 AM
Hi Rich,
 The video works for me, on an iPad.
Nice looking frames & axelboxes, & a great mod to coil springs. Only comment would be did you consider studs threaded each end instead of thread rod? The reason I ask is the grating sound when you move the axel boxes sounds like a file!

Cheers Kerrin
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on July 30, 2017, 07:22:45 AM
Odd... I tried the video in Internet Explorer and it worked fine.  But for some reason it still doesn't work for me in Chrome.  It just shows a blank page where IE shows the video.  Wonder if it needs some plug-in that I don't have installed in Chrome?  Usually, the web site would say something about that though.

Ah well, I was able to see the video and watch the axelboxes go up and down!  :popcorn:
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 30, 2017, 09:41:02 AM
Hi

I made the studs from some stainless steel 4mm socket head screws. I just chopped the heads off and then in the lathe with a tailstock die holder cut about 5mm of thread on the blank end. They have to be threaded all the way down for the 2 nuts that hold the 2 halves of the axle box together. I haven't finished fettling yet. The holes in the horn stays need a little extra clearance.

You are right though, a plain stud in the hole would be better, I'll get my thinking cap on  :thinking:  :headscratch:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 30, 2017, 01:53:20 PM
Hi

All it needed was a bit of reverse thinking, turn the studs round.

They need to be a bit longer so starting with some M4 cap heads make the thread a litle longer

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/c372b55f424baff5cdca_1.jpg) (http://www.use.com/c372b55f424baff5cdca?p=1)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/c372b55f424baff5cdca?p=1)

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/c372b55f424baff5cdca_2.jpg) (http://www.use.com/c372b55f424baff5cdca?p=2)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/c372b55f424baff5cdca?p=2)

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/c372b55f424baff5cdca_3.jpg) (http://www.use.com/c372b55f424baff5cdca?p=3)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/c372b55f424baff5cdca?p=3)


then in the lathe to thread the other end. Screw on a nut then assemble the axle box

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/c372b55f424baff5cdca_4.jpg) (http://www.use.com/c372b55f424baff5cdca?p=4)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/c372b55f424baff5cdca?p=4)
(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/c372b55f424baff5cdca_5.jpg) (http://www.use.com/c372b55f424baff5cdca?p=5)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/c372b55f424baff5cdca?p=5)

Now the plain shank runs in the horn plate

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/c372b55f424baff5cdca_6.jpg) (http://www.use.com/c372b55f424baff5cdca?p=6)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/c372b55f424baff5cdca?p=6)

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/5c8220eabfda74aa45fc.jpg) (http://www.use.com/2017_07_30_2_5c8220eabfda74aa45fc)


Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on August 05, 2017, 08:49:46 PM
Hi

The modified suspension seems to work ok, I'm quite happy with it. The springs will need to be a little stronger but they can be easily changed when the loco is finished and I can then test them with the all up weight.

I have decided to attack the boiler next. There are a few mods to the frames that will be needed but I can't do that until I have a boiler. Not much point in carrying on with the frames at this point.

I have turned up a couple of dummy axles from ally, a nice loose fit in the wheels and axle boxes, I don't want to press anything together just yet

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/35a841ba2afadf43108d_1.jpg) (http://www.use.com/35a841ba2afadf43108d?p=1)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/35a841ba2afadf43108d?p=1)


Then loosely assembled the frames with a few stretchers and front and rear buffers

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/35a841ba2afadf43108d_3.jpg) (http://www.use.com/35a841ba2afadf43108d?p=3)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/35a841ba2afadf43108d?p=3)


(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/35a841ba2afadf43108d_2.jpg) (http://www.use.com/35a841ba2afadf43108d?p=2)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/35a841ba2afadf43108d?p=2)


Now I have something to try the boiler in.

The loco in front is a 3 1/2" gauge Juliet by the way

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Steamer5 on August 06, 2017, 03:00:48 AM
Hi Rich,
 Woops sorry didn't mean to cause you extra work! Still I think in the long run you will be pleased that you did. Keep up the good work!

Cheers Kerrin
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on August 09, 2017, 02:41:49 PM
Hi

No problem Kerrin. glad of any help :ThumbsUp:

Ok lets get on with the boiler.

Firstly a quick view of my shop. 1 sheet of the plans on the right hand bench and various bits of printing on the left hand bench

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd_2.jpg) (http://www.use.com/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd?p=2)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd?p=2)


The various flanging plates were described earlier

I have printed out the various plates required. I copied the PDF drawings into the drawing programme I use (Coreldraw) Then added 3/8" for the flanges and printed out exact size copies, double checking they have come out the right size. Each piece was cut out and laid on the 2.5mm (3/32") copper sheet (grade C106) until the most economic way was found

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd_1.jpg) (http://www.use.com/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd?p=1)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd?p=1)

Spray glue the templates onto the copper sheet

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd_3.jpg) (http://www.use.com/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd?p=3)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd?p=3)


The old bandsaw in vertical mode made quick work of most of the cutting

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd_4.jpg) (http://www.use.com/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd?p=4)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd?p=4)

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd_5.jpg) (http://www.use.com/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd?p=5)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd?p=5)

A bit of work with a file to tidy up. They don't have to be exact but enough to get rid of rough edges

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd_6.jpg) (http://www.use.com/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd?p=6)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd?p=6)


Heat to cherry red to anneal

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd_7.jpg) (http://www.use.com/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd?p=7)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd?p=7)


Then beat it around the flange plate

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd_8.jpg) (http://www.use.com/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd?p=8)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd?p=8)
(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd_9.jpg) (http://www.use.com/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd?p=9)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd?p=9)

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd_10.jpg) (http://www.use.com/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd?p=10)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd?p=10)

The same with the next plate

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd_11.jpg) (http://www.use.com/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd?p=11)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/5d9b05a2410d3c75d3fd?p=11)

Cheers

Rich


Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Steamer5 on August 09, 2017, 03:02:22 PM
Hi Rich,
 Looking good! You're making it look easy!

Oh BTW your shop looks tidier than mine!

Cheers Kerrin
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on August 13, 2017, 05:26:49 PM
Hi Kerrin

Thanks for the support but I don't know about making it look easy. Its a bit nerve wracking, I can't afford to make too many cock ups with the price of copper.

As for a tidy shop well I did have a big clean up before I started on the boiler, all the other bits and pieces bagged and boxed.

Not much to report at the moment. We have just got back from a weeks holiday. Next weekend we are going to the Lincoln steam fair and the week after that down to the biggy at the Great Dorset steam fair for a 2 day jaunt.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Ye-Ole Steam Dude on August 13, 2017, 06:17:44 PM

I expected to see several Doctors in their white operating gowns, your shop is sterile looking.

Enjoying following this build.

Thomas
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on August 19, 2017, 08:21:57 PM
Hi

Thanks Thomas.

I Have printed out an exact size drawing of the throat plate, cut out and spray glue into the throat plate. accurately centre punch then centre in the mill with a centre. A piece of sacrificial MDF underneath.

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/362dae6cb6c5ea673bd4_1.jpg) (http://www.use.com/362dae6cb6c5ea673bd4?p=1)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/362dae6cb6c5ea673bd4?p=1)

Lock the X and Y axis and clamp securely

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/362dae6cb6c5ea673bd4_2.jpg) (http://www.use.com/362dae6cb6c5ea673bd4?p=2)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/362dae6cb6c5ea673bd4?p=2)


Centre drill.

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/362dae6cb6c5ea673bd4_3.jpg) (http://www.use.com/362dae6cb6c5ea673bd4?p=3)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/362dae6cb6c5ea673bd4?p=3)


The biggest hole saw I have removes quite a lot

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/362dae6cb6c5ea673bd4_4.jpg) (http://www.use.com/362dae6cb6c5ea673bd4?p=4)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/362dae6cb6c5ea673bd4?p=4)


Followed by the boring head

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/362dae6cb6c5ea673bd4_5.jpg) (http://www.use.com/362dae6cb6c5ea673bd4?p=5)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/362dae6cb6c5ea673bd4?p=5)


Until the off cut of the barrel is a nice fit

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/362dae6cb6c5ea673bd4_6.jpg) (http://www.use.com/362dae6cb6c5ea673bd4?p=6)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/362dae6cb6c5ea673bd4?p=6)

The 2 firebox plates have been trimmed in the mill (sorry no photo) then dumped in the pickle for a clean up

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/362dae6cb6c5ea673bd4_7.jpg) (http://www.use.com/362dae6cb6c5ea673bd4?p=7)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/362dae6cb6c5ea673bd4?p=7)


Cheers

Rich

ps

Whoops, forgot a couple of photos

I couldn't hold the flange plates well enough in my 4" vise so resorted to holding them in the press

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/f6a5cf0e5556a1b25997_1.jpg) (http://www.use.com/f6a5cf0e5556a1b25997?p=1)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/f6a5cf0e5556a1b25997?p=1)

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/f6a5cf0e5556a1b25997_2.jpg) (http://www.use.com/f6a5cf0e5556a1b25997?p=2)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/f6a5cf0e5556a1b25997?p=2)

It worked well

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on August 19, 2017, 10:35:48 PM
Nice!

When printing out full size patterns like that, make sure to check the dimensions with a rule after printing to double-check them, lots of printers scale things slightly in one direction differently than the other, and paper does slip in the rollers on the way through, causing a twist along the long axis sometimes. I worked in electro-photographic and inkjet printers for many years, doing alignments and software to test the accuracy of feeds and printheads, and saw cases where they designed for a 600dpi raster, then used metric encoders so the scaling was close but no where near exact, rounding errors along the way...

For this use, looks like it really worked well, still watching along with interest!

Chris
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on August 19, 2017, 11:04:48 PM
Hi Chris

Yes I check the dimensions after printing.

I snip the section of drawing I want then import to my drawing programme, Coreldraw. I draw several boxes/circles to size then overlay on the drawing and adjust the drawing size until they match. Print and check for correct size.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Steamer5 on August 19, 2017, 11:10:59 PM
Hi Rich,
 Well they came out nice! Like the use of the press to hold things while you beat it into submission...errr....shape! Hope the knuckles didn't take too many hits!

Cheers Kerrin
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on August 20, 2017, 08:46:59 AM
Hi Kerrin

The knuckles are fine. :ThumbsUp:

The trick is to anneal the copper often, its surprisingly soft to work for a couple of hits then it hardens up.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: steam guy willy on August 20, 2017, 12:09:31 PM
Will the copper loose its annealed state faster with a steel hammer rather than a hide mallet ???
Willbert
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on August 22, 2017, 08:13:17 PM
Thats a good question Willbert

I have absolutely no idea  :shrug: :thinking: :headscratch: :noidea: :ShakeHead:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on August 22, 2017, 10:49:57 PM
A lot depends on the steel hammer. A heavy one will move the metal more, work hardening it faster, though the distance moved is similar. Ghe danger with a steel hammer is denting the metal. A wide slightly convex hammer is used for things like bowl raising, takes a bit more skill than forming over a lip with a plastic or hide mallet. For making the endcaps, the plastic or hide mallet is a much better way to go.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on August 23, 2017, 08:52:08 PM
Hi

A printed template is stuck inside the smokebox tubeplate and all the positions centre punched. 4 of the holes are drilled 4mm

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/0622071e6f4dd37cb2a2_1.jpg) (http://www.use.com/0622071e6f4dd37cb2a2?p=1)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/0622071e6f4dd37cb2a2?p=1)


Screwed to a piece of scrap wood

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/0622071e6f4dd37cb2a2_2.jpg) (http://www.use.com/0622071e6f4dd37cb2a2?p=2)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/0622071e6f4dd37cb2a2?p=2)

By moving the screws about all the holes can be centre drilled

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/0622071e6f4dd37cb2a2_2.jpg) (http://www.use.com/0622071e6f4dd37cb2a2?p=2)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/0622071e6f4dd37cb2a2?p=2)

The larger holes, one for a bush and one for a super heater tube are firstly drilled out with a step drill

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/0622071e6f4dd37cb2a2_4.jpg) (http://www.use.com/0622071e6f4dd37cb2a2?p=4)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/0622071e6f4dd37cb2a2?p=4)

the super heater 1" hole needs to be slightly undersize for now so a guage is used

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/0622071e6f4dd37cb2a2_5.jpg) (http://www.use.com/0622071e6f4dd37cb2a2?p=5)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/0622071e6f4dd37cb2a2?p=5)

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/0622071e6f4dd37cb2a2_6.jpg) (http://www.use.com/0622071e6f4dd37cb2a2?p=6)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/0622071e6f4dd37cb2a2?p=6)

Finally the firetube holes are reamed 1/2"

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/0622071e6f4dd37cb2a2_7.jpg) (http://www.use.com/0622071e6f4dd37cb2a2?p=7)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/0622071e6f4dd37cb2a2?p=7)


Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: scc on August 23, 2017, 09:11:01 PM
Rich, Thank you for  troubling to detail your build as you do. It makes inspiring reading. I'm following and enjoying :cheers:

Regards            Terry
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on August 23, 2017, 10:38:19 PM
Following along, very interesting!


 :popcorn:

 :popcorn:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on August 29, 2017, 07:19:12 PM
Hi

Thanks Terry and Crueby

Quite early on in the text it says make the large bush that the regulator goe's in and silver solder into a large hole in the top of the boiler. There is no mention of drilling and tapping you sort of have to work that out from the description of the cover that fits over the regulator, the cover isn't mentioned until much later on  :thinking: Anyway 8 tapped holes are required, the plans specify 6BA but I have gone with 3mm.

The bush set up in the rotary table, drilled and tapped

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/1bb5e89716e3c9b127fc_1.jpg) (http://www.use.com/1bb5e89716e3c9b127fc?p=1)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/1bb5e89716e3c9b127fc?p=1)
(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/1bb5e89716e3c9b127fc_2.jpg) (http://www.use.com/1bb5e89716e3c9b127fc?p=2)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/1bb5e89716e3c9b127fc?p=2)


Now onto the large hole, 1 3/4" in the top of the boiler. I knocked up a jig to hold the boiler from scrap wood, and bolted it down in the mill. A couple pull ties help to keep it it in position

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/1bb5e89716e3c9b127fc_3.jpg) (http://www.use.com/1bb5e89716e3c9b127fc?p=3)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/1bb5e89716e3c9b127fc?p=3)


A step drill removed most of the waste

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/1bb5e89716e3c9b127fc_4.jpg) (http://www.use.com/1bb5e89716e3c9b127fc?p=4)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/1bb5e89716e3c9b127fc?p=4)

Followed by the boring head. I had to add a couple of angle plates to the set up to stop the boiler moving sidewards

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/1bb5e89716e3c9b127fc_5.jpg) (http://www.use.com/1bb5e89716e3c9b127fc?p=5)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/1bb5e89716e3c9b127fc?p=5)
(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/1bb5e89716e3c9b127fc_6.jpg) (http://www.use.com/1bb5e89716e3c9b127fc?p=6)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/1bb5e89716e3c9b127fc?p=6)


carefully machine until the bush just fits

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/1bb5e89716e3c9b127fc_8.jpg) (http://www.use.com/1bb5e89716e3c9b127fc?p=8)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/1bb5e89716e3c9b127fc?p=8)

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/1bb5e89716e3c9b127fc_7.jpg) (http://www.use.com/1bb5e89716e3c9b127fc?p=7)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/1bb5e89716e3c9b127fc?p=7)

I'm not going to solder the bush in just yet. The regulator looks like a tricky job on its own, I'll look into that first

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on August 29, 2017, 07:35:03 PM
Rich, its best not to fully tap any bushes as the heat of soldering can damage the threads. Best to just start a taper tap by a couple of turns so it locates easily after soldering to finish the job. Apart from that looking good.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on August 31, 2017, 12:41:30 PM
Hi

Thanks for the tip Jason  :ThumbsUp:

The regulator body is a gunmetal casting, cost me £17 so I don't want to mess it up.

A small piece of oak

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/b836b0e2711aa1e3218d_1.jpg) (http://www.use.com/b836b0e2711aa1e3218d?p=1)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/b836b0e2711aa1e3218d?p=1)

5 minutes on the band saw and I have something similar

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/b836b0e2711aa1e3218d_2.jpg) (http://www.use.com/b836b0e2711aa1e3218d?p=2)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/b836b0e2711aa1e3218d?p=2)

Which means I have something I can play about with and shows that if I do mess up the casting I could hack one out of brass

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on August 31, 2017, 06:59:10 PM
Hi

Ok then my learned friends we have a problem  :help:

The regulator. I don't know why but I was worried about this little so and so.

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/726dc57b36a98916893b.jpg) (http://www.use.com/726dc57b36a98916893b)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/726dc57b36a98916893b)


In the mill and fly cut the port face and the lower mounting. A good finish was achieved

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/933309f7ec9e9769c2a3_1.jpg) (http://www.use.com/933309f7ec9e9769c2a3?p=1)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/933309f7ec9e9769c2a3?p=1)

Drill and tap the port face 5BA. Drill the lower face 1/8"

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/933309f7ec9e9769c2a3_2.jpg) (http://www.use.com/933309f7ec9e9769c2a3?p=2)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/933309f7ec9e9769c2a3?p=2)

Centre drill the position of the two ports

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/933309f7ec9e9769c2a3_3.jpg) (http://www.use.com/933309f7ec9e9769c2a3?p=3)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/933309f7ec9e9769c2a3?p=3)


Fly cut the bottom face

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/933309f7ec9e9769c2a3_4.jpg) (http://www.use.com/933309f7ec9e9769c2a3?p=4)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/933309f7ec9e9769c2a3?p=4)

Two 3/16" holes have to be drilled very close together to a depth of 3 1/2" !!!!!

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/933309f7ec9e9769c2a3_5.jpg) (http://www.use.com/933309f7ec9e9769c2a3?p=5)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/933309f7ec9e9769c2a3?p=5)


First centre drill. Then drill down with a standard length drill. Change to a long series drill, the depth marked with a bit of masking tape. The right hand side drilled perfectly. The left hand side went ok to about half way down then the drill wandered off and ended up drilling into the first hole  :censored: :'( :cussing:

I cross drilled the two port holes and they both joined up with the long hole. Blowing through there is a clear passage.

Will that allow enough steam through.

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on August 31, 2017, 09:02:31 PM
What does that regulator do? Is it a type of safety valve?
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: wagnmkr on August 31, 2017, 10:43:00 PM
Is that not what a throttle is called on a locomotive?

Tom
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Steamer5 on August 31, 2017, 10:45:47 PM
Hi Richie,
 That's a bugger! Sure others will jump in but I would think that as you have a reduced bore size by basically 1/2 that you will be short of steam! At 3 1/2 deep I don't think you would find an end mill that would reach anywhere near total depth. Sounds like there may of been a hard spot that kick off the drill. As a possible fix how about flipping the regulator over & drill, milling down from the top on the effectd side & hopefully managing to connect  to the "short" hole, tap & plug the entry point.
All the above assumes that you want to keep the current regulator & dont want to get another casting, or make one from solid.
Looking forward to other suggestions!

Chris Tom yes throttle equals regulator in loco speak!


Richie,
 Just had another thought, flip the regulator so the port face is down, & mill the back of the regulator out, so that you open up the drilled bores to a rectangular opening full width of the 2 holes, will give you a bigger opening for the steam. When done silver solder in a cover plate.......sounds easy......

Cheers Kerrin
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 01, 2017, 06:12:58 PM
Hi

Thanks Kerrin, I sort of went along the lines you suggested  :cheers:

Out of trouble I think

Firstly I opened up the end with a 3/16 cutter as I deep as possible

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/8bd1122911a1a094ec37_1.jpg) (http://www.use.com/8bd1122911a1a094ec37?p=1)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/8bd1122911a1a094ec37?p=1)


Then milled a slot in the side

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/8bd1122911a1a094ec37_2.jpg) (http://www.use.com/8bd1122911a1a094ec37?p=2)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/8bd1122911a1a094ec37?p=2)

A piece of 3/16 brass rod in the good hole to act as a guide

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/8bd1122911a1a094ec37_3.jpg) (http://www.use.com/8bd1122911a1a094ec37?p=3)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/8bd1122911a1a094ec37?p=3)


And finally the long drill. I decided to do this by hand sooner than in the mill, has a better feel

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/8bd1122911a1a094ec37_4.jpg) (http://www.use.com/8bd1122911a1a094ec37?p=4)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/8bd1122911a1a094ec37?p=4)


Now all I have to do is make up a piece to fit in the slot.

Cheers

Rich

PS

Will brass be ok to silver solder in the slot or do I need to use gun metal

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on September 01, 2017, 08:00:23 PM
....
PS

Will brass be ok to silver solder in the slot or do I need to use gun metal
Brass takes silver solder very well.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 02, 2017, 11:40:27 PM
Hi

Heres the piece that fits in the slot, machined from brass

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/1e9c84f7dea22720d360_1.jpg) (http://www.use.com/1e9c84f7dea22720d360?p=1)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/1e9c84f7dea22720d360?p=1)
(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/1e9c84f7dea22720d360_2.jpg) (http://www.use.com/1e9c84f7dea22720d360?p=2)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/1e9c84f7dea22720d360?p=2)

Its in the pickle now

Moving onto the disc, chuck a piece of stainless steel centre drill and face. I use a home made cutter with round tool steel for facing, I get a very fine finish

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/1e9c84f7dea22720d360_3.jpg) (http://www.use.com/1e9c84f7dea22720d360?p=3)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/1e9c84f7dea22720d360?p=3)

Move over to the rotary table, drilltwo 3/16 holes and two tapping size holes for 3mm

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/1e9c84f7dea22720d360_4.jpg) (http://www.use.com/1e9c84f7dea22720d360?p=4)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/1e9c84f7dea22720d360?p=4)

Back in the lathe and part off

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/1e9c84f7dea22720d360_5.jpg) (http://www.use.com/1e9c84f7dea22720d360?p=5)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/1e9c84f7dea22720d360?p=5)

The bolt, stainless steel, called for some fine turning and milling

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/1e9c84f7dea22720d360_6.jpg) (http://www.use.com/1e9c84f7dea22720d360?p=6)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/1e9c84f7dea22720d360?p=6)
(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/1e9c84f7dea22720d360_7.jpg) (http://www.use.com/1e9c84f7dea22720d360?p=7)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/1e9c84f7dea22720d360?p=7)
(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/1e9c84f7dea22720d360_8.jpg) (http://www.use.com/1e9c84f7dea22720d360?p=8)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/1e9c84f7dea22720d360?p=8)


Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Steamer5 on September 03, 2017, 10:07:13 AM
Hi Rich,
 Well you made that fix look easy! Well Done!
The disc & bolt look great too!

Cheers Kerrin
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 04, 2017, 08:35:38 PM
Hi

Thanks Kerrin

After silver soldering it went back in the pickle

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/20bdc79ab4c92167ec85_1.jpg) (http://www.use.com/20bdc79ab4c92167ec85?p=1)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/20bdc79ab4c92167ec85?p=1)

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/20bdc79ab4c92167ec85_2.jpg) (http://www.use.com/20bdc79ab4c92167ec85?p=2)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/20bdc79ab4c92167ec85?p=2)

All looks good  :whoohoo:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 07, 2017, 07:21:13 PM
Hi

Some more work on the regulator

Using a T slot cutter to machine the body

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe_1.jpg) (http://www.use.com/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe?p=1)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe?p=1)

The regulator is held into the boiler by 2 screws through the top of the boiler barrel. Which means the tapped holes have to be cut on the same radius as the boiler. It took a bit of working out :thinking: :headscratch:

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe_2.jpg) (http://www.use.com/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe?p=2)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe?p=2)

A long series drill just gets the job done

Followed by a tap

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe_3.jpg) (http://www.use.com/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe?p=3)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe?p=3)

The bottom of the body where the 2  3/16 holes were drilled has to be blanked off. Drill and tap a couple of 3mm holes

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe_4.jpg) (http://www.use.com/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe?p=4)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe?p=4)

Make a brass cover

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe_5.jpg) (http://www.use.com/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe?p=5)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe?p=5)

Drill and tap 5/16 x 40 tpi for the steam pipe

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe_6.jpg) (http://www.use.com/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe?p=6)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe?p=6)

The links that attach to the pivot must be free to rotate so I am trying stainless steel bushes on 3mm stainless steel cap heads

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe_7.jpg) (http://www.use.com/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe?p=7)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe?p=7)

The pivot needs a 1/8" square hole in its centre. A piece of silver steel in the rotary table has a 1/8" square machined on the end
(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe_8.jpg) (http://www.use.com/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe?p=8)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe?p=8)

Heat treat to harden just the end. Then in the press the square cutter is pushed through a previously drilled 1/8" hole

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe_9.jpg) (http://www.use.com/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe?p=9)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe?p=9)

It worked well

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe_10.jpg) (http://www.use.com/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe?p=10)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe?p=10)

Cut off and fettle a bit

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe_11.jpg) (http://www.use.com/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe?p=11)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe?p=11)

Getting there
 
(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe_12.jpg) (http://www.use.com/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe?p=12)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/f84953bf0dcc38b1dabe?p=12)

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 10, 2017, 08:19:50 PM
Hi

I machined a bit of scrap steel to give the right offset for the 2 operating links and bent them together in the press. Then fixed them at one end and drilled and reamed the other end to the correct length

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/6daf6c69b382db8242d7.jpg) (http://www.use.com/6daf6c69b382db8242d7)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/6daf6c69b382db8242d7)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 10, 2017, 08:28:20 PM
Hi

A problem  :thinking:

I have made the regulator exactly as per the plans and double checked I have made no mistakes but the regulator won't work. 

In the fully closed position the 2 operating rods are touching the upper and lower pivots but the regulator is still slightly open. If I fit the spring to the upper pivot, the movement is restricted even further holding the regulator open even further.

Sorry no photos at the moment. I'll upload some shortly to show the problem. I have a couple of ideas to solve the problem but need to think about it aliitle more

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on September 10, 2017, 08:45:02 PM
From the previous post it looks like you have put the pivot holes at 90deg to the openings but the drawing looks to have them at a different angle 60/120
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 11, 2017, 08:28:42 PM
Hi

You are quite right Jason  :ThumbsUp:

I drew the detail out and then I could see my error :Doh: :facepalm: :old: :wallbang:

(http://www.use.com/images/s_2/4d0d8dc4bd10a6b1e70c.jpg) (http://www.use.com/4d0d8dc4bd10a6b1e70c)
(http://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (http://www.use.com/4d0d8dc4bd10a6b1e70c)

I just have to make another disc

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 14, 2017, 08:25:05 PM
Hi

If you drill the holes in the right place it will work :slap:

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d1901092bfb8c2414485.jpg) (https://www.use.com/2017_09_14_1_d1901092bfb8c2414485)


Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 16, 2017, 09:51:06 AM
Hi

 Silver soldered the regulator bush into the boiler

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d8c654f9422f6c4c7486_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d8c654f9422f6c4c7486?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d8c654f9422f6c4c7486?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d8c654f9422f6c4c7486_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d8c654f9422f6c4c7486?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d8c654f9422f6c4c7486?p=2)


Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 16, 2017, 07:16:48 PM
Hi

A bit of boiler work today.

Preparing to silver solder 3 bushes into the smokebox tube plate

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/422c59c0113ad9a04537_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/422c59c0113ad9a04537?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/422c59c0113ad9a04537?p=1)

Drilling holes for bushes and using the boring head to machine the fire hole

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/422c59c0113ad9a04537_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/422c59c0113ad9a04537?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/422c59c0113ad9a04537?p=2)

3 more bushes made from phosphor bronze

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/422c59c0113ad9a04537_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/422c59c0113ad9a04537?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/422c59c0113ad9a04537?p=3)

Drill 10 holes for stays in the throat plate

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/422c59c0113ad9a04537_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/422c59c0113ad9a04537?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/422c59c0113ad9a04537?p=4)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jim Nic on September 16, 2017, 09:46:18 PM
Hi Rich
I'm not saying much but I'm following along with interest.  Keep up the good work  :ThumbsUp:
Jim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 17, 2017, 04:13:09 PM
Hi

Thanks Jim  :ThumbsUp:

I have a turntable in my hearth. Its a disc of thick steel sitting on a clutch release bearing.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d2cb592c2808ad37fe4b_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d2cb592c2808ad37fe4b?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d2cb592c2808ad37fe4b?p=1)


The boiler barrel and throat plate fluxed and set up. there are 2 pieces of 6mm ally bar inside the throat plate which keeps the barrel at the correct position

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d2cb592c2808ad37fe4b_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d2cb592c2808ad37fe4b?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d2cb592c2808ad37fe4b?p=2)

After silver soldering turn over for inspection, looks ok

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d2cb592c2808ad37fe4b_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d2cb592c2808ad37fe4b?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d2cb592c2808ad37fe4b?p=3)

Its in the pickle now

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 17, 2017, 05:06:01 PM
Hi

After a few hours in the pickle

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/e96ffe088442c5cb88cd_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/e96ffe088442c5cb88cd?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/e96ffe088442c5cb88cd?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/e96ffe088442c5cb88cd_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/e96ffe088442c5cb88cd?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/e96ffe088442c5cb88cd?p=2)


Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 21, 2017, 08:04:30 PM
Hi

Some more boiler work,drilling and boring

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/95f8db6cb7f62752bef7_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/95f8db6cb7f62752bef7?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/95f8db6cb7f62752bef7?p=1)

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/95f8db6cb7f62752bef7_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/95f8db6cb7f62752bef7?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/95f8db6cb7f62752bef7?p=2)


A question

A solid 1/4" stay must be fitted which go's from the back head all the way through to the smoke box tube plate. The back head and the smoke box tube plate have bushes silver soldered in which are tapped 3/8" x 40 tpi. There is just a brief mention of it but nowhere on the plans doe's it show the nipples or how it fits???

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/95f8db6cb7f62752bef7_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/95f8db6cb7f62752bef7?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/95f8db6cb7f62752bef7?p=3)

Can anyone enlighten me

Cheers

Rich
 
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Roger B on September 22, 2017, 06:50:52 PM
Looking good  :ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp: Unfortunately I can't help regarding the stay.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Stuart on September 22, 2017, 07:53:11 PM
Rich
 to fit longitudinal stays you need some me constant pitch taps and dies

you use say a 32tpi set then you thread the stay say 1/4 32 tpi now your boiler bush must be the same tpi but bigger

next you make up a nipple thread the OD to 32 tpi to fit the bush and then tap the id to 1/4 32tpi

by using the same thread pitch it will screw on to the stay and into the bush

this is normally used to fit a hollow stay for a blower but can be used for solid stays

glad to see some one else from the EM on here

Stuart

google my place name and you will see same neck of the woods
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on September 22, 2017, 08:00:39 PM
Stay nipples are quite simple, something like this just enlarged proportionally to suite your thread sizes

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 23, 2017, 04:06:34 PM
Hi

Thanks Jason and Stuart.  :ThumbsUp:

The nipples are not drilled right through? They seal onto the threaded bush with a copper washer?

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on September 23, 2017, 04:13:39 PM
Drilled and tapped right through, soldered to seal.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 24, 2017, 10:19:48 AM
Hi

Thanks Jason.

Is there a reason for making the stays this way? :thinking:

Would it not be easier to just silver solder the stays directly into the smoke box tube plate and back head, or do the threaded nipples add mechanical strength?

I assume that since the nipples are silver soldered to the boiler and become part of it they must be made from phosphor bronze or gun metal not brass. There is no mention of them on the plans.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 24, 2017, 11:25:48 AM
Hi

Some more boiler work.

An hour or so in the woodworking department to make a couple of formers

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/31279a32b921dafd875f_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/31279a32b921dafd875f?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/31279a32b921dafd875f?p=1)

Annealing the copper plate for the outer wrapper

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/31279a32b921dafd875f_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/31279a32b921dafd875f?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/31279a32b921dafd875f?p=2)

Bending the outer wrapper around the former. This has a clamp fitted to hold the plate in position

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/31279a32b921dafd875f_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/31279a32b921dafd875f?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/31279a32b921dafd875f?p=3)

The inner wrapper being shaped

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/31279a32b921dafd875f_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/31279a32b921dafd875f?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/31279a32b921dafd875f?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/31279a32b921dafd875f_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/31279a32b921dafd875f?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/31279a32b921dafd875f?p=5)

make 2 bushes for the top of the outer wrapper, one for the safety valve and here one for the manifold

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/31279a32b921dafd875f_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/31279a32b921dafd875f?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/31279a32b921dafd875f?p=6)

Drill 2 holes in the outer wrapper with a step drill

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/31279a32b921dafd875f_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/31279a32b921dafd875f?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/31279a32b921dafd875f?p=7)

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/31279a32b921dafd875f_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/31279a32b921dafd875f?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/31279a32b921dafd875f?p=8)

The 15 fire tubes are cut to length and have there ends turned square. The super heater tube had to be held using a fixed steady

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/31279a32b921dafd875f_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/31279a32b921dafd875f?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/31279a32b921dafd875f?p=9)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 24, 2017, 04:57:18 PM
Hi

One more photo

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/02635b8b8db726fcacc7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/02635b8b8db726fcacc7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/02635b8b8db726fcacc7)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on September 24, 2017, 06:24:41 PM
Really coming along great!!
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Barneydog on September 24, 2017, 08:51:09 PM
Looking good.
Saw it all this morning.
You catching up with my Simplex. We will have to "launch" them at the club together!!

Julian
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: NickG on September 24, 2017, 09:32:48 PM
Nice work on the boiler Rich.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Barneydog on September 24, 2017, 09:33:01 PM
Hi,
Afetr we discussed the bushes for the blower stay here's the ones I made for my Simplex. They have the bush and the nipple. The nipples have a connection for the pipes that will fit onto them. I will seal them in with loctite thread seal or ptfe.
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/ac76ebf475b1a1b4cacc_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/ac76ebf475b1a1b4cacc?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/ac76ebf475b1a1b4cacc?p=1)
Figured the big pics.
Julian
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 28, 2017, 09:14:13 PM
Hi

Thanks Crueby, Nick and Julian

A bit more boiler work, the crown stays.

Make a cardboard template and mark out for 4 pieces on 1/16" copper

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f3e8eb9cb7bc6c32853d_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f3e8eb9cb7bc6c32853d?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f3e8eb9cb7bc6c32853d?p=1)

After shaping

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f3e8eb9cb7bc6c32853d_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f3e8eb9cb7bc6c32853d?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f3e8eb9cb7bc6c32853d?p=2)

The 4 pieces are bent to make feet and a central piece made also from 1/16" copper. drilled with 1/16" copper rivets pushed in but not riveted yet

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f3e8eb9cb7bc6c32853d_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f3e8eb9cb7bc6c32853d?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f3e8eb9cb7bc6c32853d?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f3e8eb9cb7bc6c32853d_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f3e8eb9cb7bc6c32853d?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f3e8eb9cb7bc6c32853d?p=7)

All the pieces are in the pickle now.

While they are in the pickle I have made a start on the regulator inner dome. I have a piece of thick walled brass tube that needs to be machined to size. I made a mandrel to machine the outside

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f3e8eb9cb7bc6c32853d_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f3e8eb9cb7bc6c32853d?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f3e8eb9cb7bc6c32853d?p=3)

Turn the outside to size

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f3e8eb9cb7bc6c32853d_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f3e8eb9cb7bc6c32853d?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f3e8eb9cb7bc6c32853d?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f3e8eb9cb7bc6c32853d_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f3e8eb9cb7bc6c32853d?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f3e8eb9cb7bc6c32853d?p=5)

In the 3 jaw with fixed steady support to bore the inside

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f3e8eb9cb7bc6c32853d_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f3e8eb9cb7bc6c32853d?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f3e8eb9cb7bc6c32853d?p=8)

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on September 28, 2017, 09:37:54 PM
Interesting how the crown stays are done, do they touch the inside of the outer shell too?
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 29, 2017, 09:01:10 PM
Hi Crueby

No they don't attach to the outer wrapper they just reienforce the firebox wrapper

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 30, 2017, 05:08:37 PM
Hi

Some more boiler work

All the tubes have a few thou turned off for 3/16"

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b89d424368c293cc0d94_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=1)

I used my parting off blade as a length guage

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b89d424368c293cc0d94_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=2)

Hand wind some silver solder round a bit of 1/2" bar

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b89d424368c293cc0d94_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=3)

Cut into rings

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b89d424368c293cc0d94_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=4)

File some nicks into each of the tube holes in the firebox tube plate so that the silver solder will flow through

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b89d424368c293cc0d94_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=5)

Drop all the tubes into the well fluxed tube plate and add the silver solder rings

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b89d424368c293cc0d94_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=6)

Fit the smoke box tube plate to the front end to help keep them in line.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b89d424368c293cc0d94_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=7)

Ready to be silver soldered

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b89d424368c293cc0d94_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=8)

After silver soldering

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b89d424368c293cc0d94_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=9)

After a while in the pickle

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b89d424368c293cc0d94_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b89d424368c293cc0d94_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=11)

I think I've got it  :cartwheel: :cheers:

A mock up to check on progress

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b89d424368c293cc0d94_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b89d424368c293cc0d94_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b89d424368c293cc0d94_13.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b89d424368c293cc0d94?p=13)


Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: DTR on September 30, 2017, 06:42:54 PM
Impressive bit of soldering there!
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: scc on September 30, 2017, 07:04:59 PM
Excellent soldering indeed. :ThumbsUp:             Terry
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on September 30, 2017, 08:31:48 PM
Very well done! I like the trick of filing in the nicks, have not seen that before.

 :popcorn:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 01, 2017, 08:51:44 AM
Hi

Thanks Dave, Terry and Crueby

I must admit it was a scary time. This is the first time I have had a go at a loco boiler. The nicks were filed in as per advice in the magazine article. Also I followed the advice of cleanliness first and last. A good few hours in the pickle followed by a scrub in hot water then plenty of flux. Wear rubber gloves and try not to touch the metal where the joint is, even  a finger print can ruin the soldering. The main problem is getting enough heat into it. Unfortunately there are no photos during the soldering process. To do the tubes I had my main blow lamp, propane fed off a bottle aimed underneath on the inside and a hand held propane turbo torch on the outside moving it around and through the tubes. Even this took close to ten minutes before the solder flashed.

Julian had a similar setup to do his Simplex boiler.

We have decided that it might be a better idea to join forces when silver soldering the larger pieces, 4 hands being better than 2.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Roger B on October 01, 2017, 09:40:28 AM
Excellent progress  :ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp:  :wine1:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 01, 2017, 10:47:08 AM
Hi

Thanks Roger

Here's a bit of video of turning the inner dome. it shows the power feed being used.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/aa747c294daf3bb197c6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/2017_10_01_1_aa747c294daf3bb197c6)


Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: 90LX_Notch on October 01, 2017, 02:01:59 PM
Still following along Rich.  Very nice work. 

-Bob
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: steamboatmodel on October 01, 2017, 03:10:27 PM
Wow Rich that is some job of soldering. I have found that keeping everything clean and oil free does make it easier with the soldering too. I have never done a locomotive boiler with all those tubes to get soldered right just makes me shake my head, you seen to have got it done well done.
Regards,
Gerald.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: NickG on October 01, 2017, 08:36:51 PM
Making this boiler look easy Rich and they are anything but! Looks excellent.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: b.lindsey on October 01, 2017, 11:16:12 PM
Impressive soldering indeed!!! And a very nice looking boiler  :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:

Bill
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on October 02, 2017, 05:52:09 AM
Wow! I'll say!  That solder job looks great.  I've got a boiler coming up on my steam tractor project and am getting a lot out of watching you and others go through this process.  Mine won't be anywhere near as big, but its amazing to watch you do all of this. Well done!
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 05, 2017, 12:37:03 PM
Hi

Thanks for the kind words of support Bob, Gerald, Nick, Bill and Kim  :ThumbsUp: its very much appreciated  :cheers:

I hope to get some more done over this weekend

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 05, 2017, 08:17:50 PM
Hi

The ends of the tubes have to be annealed. When they are fitted into the smoke box tube plate in the boiler barrel they have to be expanded using a tapered drift.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d5f39381f40062a4bd90_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d5f39381f40062a4bd90?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d5f39381f40062a4bd90?p=1)

The outer wrapper being fitted to the throat plate, held in place with a few 1/16" copper rivets

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d5f39381f40062a4bd90_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d5f39381f40062a4bd90?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d5f39381f40062a4bd90?p=2)

Make up 2 phospher bronze bushes and drill holes in the outer wrapper. These are for the 2 blow down drain valves.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d5f39381f40062a4bd90_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d5f39381f40062a4bd90?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d5f39381f40062a4bd90?p=3)

After silver soldering the outer wrapper to the throat plate

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d5f39381f40062a4bd90_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d5f39381f40062a4bd90?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d5f39381f40062a4bd90?p=4)

Its in the pickle again now

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 05, 2017, 09:16:40 PM
Hi

A question  :thinking:

Here's a clip from the article about the stays.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/5699484f1cf998b6a7be.jpg) (https://www.use.com/5699484f1cf998b6a7be)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/5699484f1cf998b6a7be)

Firstly it says gunmetal screws are commercially available. Well I have looked  :atcomputer: and I can't find anybody who sells them  :shrug:

I have phospher bronze rod with which I could make the stays, about 40 in all

Secondly it says threaded through both plates  :headscratch: Doe's this mean that the inner and outer wrapper are drilled then a tap run through both plates. The stay being threaded all its length and then screwed through both plates and fitted with a brass nut on the inside.

Any help appreciated

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on October 06, 2017, 07:59:30 AM
Screwed stays are not used so often now, most people pop a copper rivit through the two drilled holes, give it a slight bend so it does not fall out and then solder them in then cut off the excess length. Check with your inspector if using 1/8" rivits will be Ok.

If you do go the threaded route then yes drill through both plates and tap right through, you may need a tap with long flutes.

Rather than waste a lot of bronze hex, thread rod to make a length of studding and use a tap wrench to screw it in then just saw off leaving enough to take the nut then move onto the next one, etc
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 07, 2017, 06:39:53 PM
Hi

Thanks Jason  :ThumbsUp:

Julian has emailed our club boiler inspector for clarification, we await his reply.

5/32" (which is near enough 4BA) copper rivets are available at a reasonable price. As far as I can see I need 77 stays so using copper rivets would save an awful lot of work.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 07, 2017, 08:07:57 PM
Hi

A bit of everything today starting with turning the flange for the inner dome.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bd518712347ad9e8c95c_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=1)


In the rotary table to have 8 holes drilled

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bd518712347ad9e8c95c_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=5)


Silver solder 2 parts together

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bd518712347ad9e8c95c_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=6)

Make a blanking plate to be used when the boiler is ready for its hydraulic test

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bd518712347ad9e8c95c_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=7)

On a different track, if you'll pardon the pun ::)

I made up some holders to use the 4"-6" leftovers of silver solder

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bd518712347ad9e8c95c_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=4)

The tubes have closed up a bit, probably due to repeated heating operations, so I have gently teased them apart and fitted the smoke box tube plate to straighten them out

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bd518712347ad9e8c95c_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=9)

The tubes are slid into the boiler barrel

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bd518712347ad9e8c95c_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bd518712347ad9e8c95c_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=11)

I have made up some small screws threaded 1/8 x 40 from phospher bronze rod and temporarily fitted the backhead

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bd518712347ad9e8c95c_13.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bd518712347ad9e8c95c_15.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=15)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=15)

The rest of the afternoon was spent jiggling about trying to find the best fit. A lot of things to line up, the firehole, the solid stay and blower tube that go from front to back etc etc. then start to make up the foundation ring.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bd518712347ad9e8c95c_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bd518712347ad9e8c95c_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bd518712347ad9e8c95c_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=12)

Cheers

Rich


 



Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on October 07, 2017, 08:09:42 PM
Rich, it's the core dia that matters so 1/8 "rivit should be fine as a substitute for 4BA
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 07, 2017, 08:45:18 PM
Hi Jason

Yes of course 1/8" :facepalm: :Doh: :facepalm2: :old:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on October 07, 2017, 11:25:23 PM
Boiler is looking great!


 :popcorn:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 08, 2017, 05:46:01 PM
Hi

Thanks Crueby :ThumbsUp:

Some more juggling today trying to get things aligned. It is mentioned in the article that the blower pipe and solid stay are very tight. You are not kidding :facepalm:. Hindsight being a wonderful thing and all that, I would have moved a couple of the bushes by a fraction if I had known. Why he had to make things so tight I don't know  :shrug: Anyway these things are sent to challenge us.

I have made up a couple of dummy bushes from brass for the smoke box end. I have just drilled them through 1/4". The phospher bronze bushes must be tapped and the stay and blower pipe threaded

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f38cc328be41e8e682c3_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f38cc328be41e8e682c3?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f38cc328be41e8e682c3?p=1)

They fit ok

At the other end I made up a dummy firehole from ally and clamped the firebox in the best position I could get

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f38cc328be41e8e682c3_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f38cc328be41e8e682c3?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f38cc328be41e8e682c3?p=2)

The solid stay and the blower tube will come through the holes in the back head but I can't get them cental enough to fit bushes

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f38cc328be41e8e682c3_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f38cc328be41e8e682c3?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f38cc328be41e8e682c3?p=3)

I have overcome the solid stay problem by making an offset bush, here being drilled in the mill

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f38cc328be41e8e682c3_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f38cc328be41e8e682c3?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f38cc328be41e8e682c3?p=4)

Back in the lathe, turn and part off

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f38cc328be41e8e682c3_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f38cc328be41e8e682c3?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f38cc328be41e8e682c3?p=5)

OK that one fits  :cartwheel: but the blower tube is still out. There is more room on that side of the back head so I am going to enlarge the hole, make a larger bush with hole for the blower tube offset which will hopefully resolve the problem

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f38cc328be41e8e682c3_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f38cc328be41e8e682c3?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f38cc328be41e8e682c3?p=6)

Finally today a bit of work on the foundation ring

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f38cc328be41e8e682c3_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f38cc328be41e8e682c3?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f38cc328be41e8e682c3?p=7)


Cheers

Rich



Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: 10KPete on October 08, 2017, 07:49:18 PM
Rich, can you not put a slight 'S' bend in the blower tube to get it to center in the bushing??

Pete
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 08, 2017, 08:15:00 PM
Hi Pete

The blower tube and the solid stay run across the top of the inner firebox in between the crown stays. The back of the inner firebox is only 3/8" from the backhead. If you look about 5 photos back you can just see the top of the firebox. There is not enough room to put an S bend in.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: 10KPete on October 08, 2017, 08:19:46 PM
Ouch! I didn't realize it was so tight!!! Looking at the pic again I do see the firebox....

Pete
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Florian Eberhard on October 08, 2017, 09:27:50 PM

I made up some holders to use the 4"-6" leftovers of silver solder

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bd518712347ad9e8c95c_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bd518712347ad9e8c95c?p=4)

 

Hi Rich

I usually solder that leftover piece onto the next rod to use it without any leftover (which would only happen if you have one bar left)

I apply a little flux on the end of both bars, then use a small point gas torch to heat the two rods carefully (placed on some fire brick and with a small gap between them)
As soon as they start to melt, I join them and remove the flame of the torch. Works pretty well for thin rods and lets you use your silver solder with no leftover.

Florian
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 12, 2017, 08:24:58 PM
Hi

I have tried that Florian but without success, I just end up with molten blobs :shrug:

I have knocked up a dummy offset bush for the blower tube

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/35af262519d9aa077b12_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=1)

The hole in the backhead has been enlarged to 5/8"

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/35af262519d9aa077b12_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=2)

The tube fits freely now

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/35af262519d9aa077b12_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=3)

Set up in the brazing hearth to silver solder the front part of the foundation ring. A turbo torch puts some heat into it

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/35af262519d9aa077b12_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=4)

Then in with the oxy pro/propane to get up to temperature for soldering

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/35af262519d9aa077b12_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=5)

After soldering

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/35af262519d9aa077b12_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=6)

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/35af262519d9aa077b12_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=7)

The front end is drilled and tapped 1/8 x 40 in 3 places through the barrel and into the flange of the front tube plate. 3 screws have been made from phosphor bronze

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/35af262519d9aa077b12_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/35af262519d9aa077b12_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=9)

Make up a well polished tapered drift

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/35af262519d9aa077b12_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=10)

And lightly expand the ends of the previously annealed tubes

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/35af262519d9aa077b12_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/35af262519d9aa077b12_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=11)

Lots of flux and rings of silver solder around the tubes and silver solder laid around the edge

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/35af262519d9aa077b12_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=12)

Heat from 2 torches before the oxy/propane

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/35af262519d9aa077b12_13.jpg) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=13)

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/136935d77555d59fff27.jpg) (https://www.use.com/2017_10_12_2_136935d77555d59fff27)


After siver soldering

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/35af262519d9aa077b12_14.jpg) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=14)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/35af262519d9aa077b12?p=14)

All in the pickle again now

Cheers

Rich




Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Steamer5 on October 13, 2017, 06:39:52 AM
Hi Rich,
 Looking good, now that Chris has finished his build I can allocate more  :popcorn: to your build!

Cheers Kerrin
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on October 13, 2017, 06:49:04 AM
More great soldering work there Rich.

Are all the tubes in the boiler the same size?  (other than the center one of course.)  In that last picture, there are a couple of tubes at the top of the picture that look smaller than the others.  Is there a reason for that? Or is it just the way I'm looking at it?

Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 13, 2017, 11:33:58 AM
Hi

Thanks Kerrin  :ThumbsUp:

Kim, the smaller ones are tapped bushes, 3/8" x 40 tpi. One is for the solid stay and one is for the blower tube. The stay and tube go from the smoke box tube plate all the way through to the backhead. The backhead bushes are the ones I have had to make eccentric bushes for.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 14, 2017, 08:42:28 PM
Hi

Work on the boiler has stopped temporarily while I wait for the copper rivets for the stays to arrive.

To amuse myself I thought I would have a go at the regulator. It looks like a casting but none are available so it has to be fabricated. Firstly though I had to brush up on screw cutting. I have done a little screw cutting some years ago but none since. Having sorted out the correct gears and a few practice pieces made it was onto the regulator. I have already made the 1/2" x 32tpi tapped bush that will be silver soldered into the back head. Firstly a bit of scrap brass is drilled and tapped 1/2" x 32tpi which will be used as a mandrel and test nut. Machine a bit of 3/4" brass down to 1/2" and screw cut the thread. While I was at it I made 2 in case there was any cock ups later on

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/de490e47ae56a154d611_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/de490e47ae56a154d611?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/de490e47ae56a154d611?p=1)

Screw them into the mandrel and face to size

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/de490e47ae56a154d611_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/de490e47ae56a154d611?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/de490e47ae56a154d611?p=2)

Which gives us these

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/de490e47ae56a154d611_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/de490e47ae56a154d611?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/de490e47ae56a154d611?p=3)

They have to be bored and tapped 3/8" x 40tpi. Remember the cock up I mentioned well here it is. I bored it to big  :facepalm2: :facepalm:. I manage to salvage it by tapping 7/16" x 32tpi. the second one I made correctly

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/de490e47ae56a154d611_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/de490e47ae56a154d611?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/de490e47ae56a154d611?p=4)

A largish bit of brass is machined to 1.2" and bored to 3/4" the same as the flange on the tapped body, then part off

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/de490e47ae56a154d611_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/de490e47ae56a154d611?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/de490e47ae56a154d611?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/de490e47ae56a154d611_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/de490e47ae56a154d611?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/de490e47ae56a154d611?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/de490e47ae56a154d611_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/de490e47ae56a154d611?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/de490e47ae56a154d611?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/de490e47ae56a154d611_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/de490e47ae56a154d611?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/de490e47ae56a154d611?p=8)

In the mill and machine away some of the waste

Which gives us this. There should be enough for me to get 2 out of it

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/de490e47ae56a154d611_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/de490e47ae56a154d611?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/de490e47ae56a154d611?p=9)

which gives us this bit

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/de490e47ae56a154d611_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/de490e47ae56a154d611?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/de490e47ae56a154d611?p=10)

Which hopefully when silver soldered to the body will do the trick

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/de490e47ae56a154d611_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/de490e47ae56a154d611?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/de490e47ae56a154d611?p=11)


Cheers

Rich



 


Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Steamer5 on October 14, 2017, 11:18:28 PM
Nice save Rich!

Rest looks good too!

Cheers Kerrin
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 15, 2017, 12:20:58 PM
Hi

Thanks Kerrin  :ThumbsUp:

A quick bit of silver soldering this morning

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/437e5e6f9b0944d7bbcd.jpg) (https://www.use.com/437e5e6f9b0944d7bbcd)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/437e5e6f9b0944d7bbcd)


Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 19, 2017, 06:11:25 PM
Hi

While the lathe is set up to screw cut 32tpi I have made one of the gland nuts

A bit of 1/2" hex brass turned and screw cut

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/dd592565c3559ad60e69_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/dd592565c3559ad60e69?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/dd592565c3559ad60e69?p=1)


Part off and try

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/dd592565c3559ad60e69_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/dd592565c3559ad60e69?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/dd592565c3559ad60e69?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/dd592565c3559ad60e69_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/dd592565c3559ad60e69?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/dd592565c3559ad60e69?p=3)


Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 19, 2017, 06:37:47 PM
Hi

And again while the lathe is set up for 32tpi I have made some of the bungs I will need when it comes to the hydraulic test. Instead of turning each bung seperately from hex I screw cut a length of 1/4" round brass and cut off 5 short lengths. Drilled and tapped 1/4 x 32 a length of 7/16 brass hex and part off 5 nuts. Screw the short lengths into the nuts and silver solder in.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/771e2ac6917636788088_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/771e2ac6917636788088?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/771e2ac6917636788088?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/771e2ac6917636788088_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/771e2ac6917636788088?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/771e2ac6917636788088?p=2)

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/771e2ac6917636788088_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/771e2ac6917636788088?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/771e2ac6917636788088?p=3)


Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 19, 2017, 06:51:47 PM
Hi

Back to the boiler. I am going to use 5/32" copper rivets for the stays now that it has been approved by our club boiler inspector.

I had already (correctly) drilled 10 holes in the throat plate. I had already (incorrectly) drilled 10 holes in the firebox plate.
Unfortunately the holes don't line up  :facepalm:
What I should have done is drilled the holes in the throat plate then after assembly, using those holes as a guide drilled through the firebox plate.  :thinking:

First job is to make up a long drill. Drill 5/32" the end of a length of 1/4" steel rod. Insert the shank of the drill and silver solder in.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/73fc1f970f3abcc8bf0d_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/73fc1f970f3abcc8bf0d?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/73fc1f970f3abcc8bf0d?p=1)

Then drill through throat plate and firebox plate

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/73fc1f970f3abcc8bf0d_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/73fc1f970f3abcc8bf0d?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/73fc1f970f3abcc8bf0d?p=2)


Cheers

Rich 
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 19, 2017, 07:05:44 PM
Hi

Fortunately the holes I drilled previously were only 3/32".

The new holes are drilled 5/32" to take the copper rivets which leaves a 3/32" hole very close to them. I cut off 10 short lengths of 3/32" copper rivets

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/98dbb8d9846a0d661433_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/98dbb8d9846a0d661433?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/98dbb8d9846a0d661433?p=1)

After a spell in the pickle plenty of flux was applied and a short 3/32" copper rivet placed in each small hole and 5/32" copper rivet pushed right through from the firebox side. I have left the bottom right hand rivets out while I took a photo.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/98dbb8d9846a0d661433_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/98dbb8d9846a0d661433?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/98dbb8d9846a0d661433?p=2)

The last 2 rivets were pushed in then silver soldered. After a spell in the pickle it looks ok.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/98dbb8d9846a0d661433_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/98dbb8d9846a0d661433?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/98dbb8d9846a0d661433?p=3)

Turn it over and flux the outer ends then silver solder

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/98dbb8d9846a0d661433_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/98dbb8d9846a0d661433?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/98dbb8d9846a0d661433?p=4)

After another spell in the pickle

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/98dbb8d9846a0d661433_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/98dbb8d9846a0d661433?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/98dbb8d9846a0d661433?p=5)

Cheers

Rich




Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on October 19, 2017, 10:19:32 PM
Clever trick making the extended drill, have to remember that one! 
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: b.lindsey on October 19, 2017, 11:55:27 PM
That is so nice silver soldering Rich. Using the extra torches on parts this size must really help also!!  Still following along and enjoying the build.

Bill
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 04, 2017, 09:25:50 PM
Hi

Thanks Crueby and Bill  :ThumbsUp:

There are 25 stays each side of the firebox. Print out an actual size drawing.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1109d18d47fdb8c32dfe_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1109d18d47fdb8c32dfe?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1109d18d47fdb8c32dfe?p=6)

Stick it to the side with masking tape and centre punch the positions. Note that 2 of the stays are slightly lower to leave room for the mounting bracket

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1109d18d47fdb8c32dfe_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1109d18d47fdb8c32dfe?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1109d18d47fdb8c32dfe?p=1)

Drill the 25 5/32 holes

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1109d18d47fdb8c32dfe_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1109d18d47fdb8c32dfe?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1109d18d47fdb8c32dfe?p=2)

Lots of flux, push through 25 x 5/32 copper rivets

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1109d18d47fdb8c32dfe_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1109d18d47fdb8c32dfe?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1109d18d47fdb8c32dfe?p=3)

And silver solder

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1109d18d47fdb8c32dfe_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1109d18d47fdb8c32dfe?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1109d18d47fdb8c32dfe?p=4)

Turn over and silver solder the outside

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1109d18d47fdb8c32dfe_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1109d18d47fdb8c32dfe?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1109d18d47fdb8c32dfe?p=5)

Then repeat the process on the other side of the boiler not forgetting that a reverse view of the drawing is needed for the right hand side.

Cheers

Rich


Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on November 04, 2017, 11:25:10 PM
Nice work on the firebox Rich.  There' a lot of work in that!
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 09, 2017, 08:06:57 PM
Hi

Thanks Kim :ThumbsUp:

Chop off the excess from the stays

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/7cb7ff8ba59a2ad3f51d_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/7cb7ff8ba59a2ad3f51d?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/7cb7ff8ba59a2ad3f51d?p=2)


A trial fit in the frames

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/7cb7ff8ba59a2ad3f51d_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/7cb7ff8ba59a2ad3f51d?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/7cb7ff8ba59a2ad3f51d?p=1)

Remove the backhead that was temporarly fitted with screws

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/7cb7ff8ba59a2ad3f51d_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/7cb7ff8ba59a2ad3f51d?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/7cb7ff8ba59a2ad3f51d?p=3)


A spell in the pickle

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/7cb7ff8ba59a2ad3f51d_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/7cb7ff8ba59a2ad3f51d?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/7cb7ff8ba59a2ad3f51d?p=4)

At this stage it has to go to the club boiler inspector to be examined while he can see inside it so no more work until it has the ok

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 10, 2017, 09:02:49 PM
Hi

With work on the boiler on hold until I can get it passed by the inspector I decided to amuse myself with a bit of brass work, the manifold to be precise.

Start by turing a bit of brass 1 1/8" then to 1/2"

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4?p=1)

Drill through 5/16 then transfer to the rotary table and drill the 4 fixing holes

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4?p=2)

Back in the lathe to have a chamfer with a large countersink

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4?p=4)

A trial fit

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4?p=5)

A bit of 1/2" square brass is drilled but not quite all the way through and tapped 3/16 x 40 for a blanking plug

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4?p=6)

Cross drill and tap 1/4 x 40 at each end, one for the pressure gauge and on for the blower and on the side face for the whistle valve. In the centre a slight recess is machined with a 1/2" end mill

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4?p=8)

Set up in the brazing hearth and silver solder the 2 parts together

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4?p=9)

A bit of screw cutting some hex brass to make a couple of fittings

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4?p=11)

A trial fit on the boiler

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b473f97fbeab84ed36a4?p=12)


Cheers

Rich


 
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on November 10, 2017, 10:30:05 PM
Is it just the camera making it look this way, or are the two down-facing nipples on the manifold overlapping the base plate? In the drawings it looks like the threaded portions are farther out, to give room to get the unions in without hitting the base, but on the part it looks like they are too far in? Hope its just a camera illusion, since it is came out looking so good.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jo on November 11, 2017, 08:26:03 AM
Hi Rich I hate to be a party pooper but I keep reading "Brass" on your boiler fittings :hellno:

Brass has a nasty habit over time of suffering from dezincification and failing when used around steam on boilers :paranoia:

Jo
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 11, 2017, 09:16:30 AM
Hi

Crueby there is room for the connections.

Hi Jo. You are quite right, brass must not be used on any part of the boiler that is a part of the boiler, ie silver soldered to it because of the de zincification problem. All the fittings that are a part of this boiler are either gun metal or Phosphor Bronze.

Anything that screws or bolts in can be made of brass because they are easily replaceable.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on November 11, 2017, 10:19:24 AM
There are two types of dezincification, one caused by hight temps while soldering and the other during use.

It is the hot water that affects the zinc in brass due to impurities in the water, steam is pure so won't have an effect so general rule of thumb is if below water line use bronze but brass can be used above though items very close that may get some carry over if the engine primes or is on rough ground are better off in bronze. So things like manifolds, water gauges, clacks, etc are best in Bronze or GM
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jo on November 11, 2017, 11:16:32 AM
Anything that screws or bolts in can be made of brass because they are easily replaceable.

This one was not replaced in time.

Luckily it failed when no one had their head in the cab shovelling coal  :paranoia:

Jo
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 11, 2017, 12:35:56 PM
Hi

Of course gun metal or bronze castings are preferred if available.

On the plans such things as the inner dome etc are specified as brass and to save time I have bought commercial blower valve, safety valve, clacks, water gauge etc and all are brass.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on November 11, 2017, 01:22:58 PM
Don't have to be castings, you can buy bronze and GM barstock

At the time the Conway was described they were still using sifbronze on boilers which you can't use now as that also fails.

Blower and safety should be OK as they mainly see steam, bottom fitting a water gauge would be better in bronze and many commercially made ones are
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 12, 2017, 09:00:05 AM
Hi

A quick update

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8f17361e43d53767b75f.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8f17361e43d53767b75f)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8f17361e43d53767b75f)


Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 16, 2017, 11:35:38 AM
Hi

Some good news

Julian took our boilers, his Simplex and my Conway, to the club inspector for inspection and both have passed.

 :whoohoo:  :wine1: :cheers: :DrinkPint: :ROFL: ;D

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jo on November 16, 2017, 11:57:40 AM
 8) 

Jo & :pinkelephant:  ::)
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: b.lindsey on November 16, 2017, 12:41:08 PM
That is great news Rich...nothing holding you back now :)

Bill
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 18, 2017, 07:57:52 PM
Hi

Thanks Jo and Bill  :ThumbsUp:

Now that the boiler has passed its visual inspection I can carry on with it.

The firehole is made from a piece of thick walled (1/8") 1 3/4" copper tube. Each end is turned down to fit between the firebox rear plate and the backhead.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3557b764630fad32a03b_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3557b764630fad32a03b?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3557b764630fad32a03b?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3557b764630fad32a03b_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3557b764630fad32a03b?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3557b764630fad32a03b?p=2)

Silver solder into the firebox first.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3557b764630fad32a03b_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3557b764630fad32a03b?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3557b764630fad32a03b?p=3)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 18, 2017, 08:07:02 PM
Hi

After each soldering job it has to go back in the pickle so I am using the time to make up a few bits and pieces.

This is a little jig which will hopefully hold the 2 water gauge bushes in alignment when I silver solder them into the backhead.

Each vertical piece is threaded 1/4" x 40tpi. Drilled and tapped 3mm and cross drilled 5/32" for the stainless steel rod.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a6419f5b5738e9b7a74d.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a6419f5b5738e9b7a74d)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a6419f5b5738e9b7a74d)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 18, 2017, 08:47:46 PM
Hi

The axle driven water feed pump.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2?p=9)

I am going to fabricate it  :thinking:

The bottom connection which is the water inlet. Turn a bit of 1/2" square brass and screw cut 3/8" x 40tpi. Drill and tap 3/8" x 32tpi. The plans specify 3/8" 26tpi but I already have some union nuts 3/8" x 32 hence the change

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2?p=1)

While the lathe is set up for 32 and 40 tpi I have screw cut several lengths of brass in a variety of diameters.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2?p=2)

In the lathe drill through, use a centre drill to create the cone (centre drills are 60°) and part off. Screw into the connector and silver solder in.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2?p=3)

The valve body I am using some 5/8" square brass and piston body some 5/8" round brass.

The valve body in the lathe drilled and tapped 3/8" x 40tpi. One end has to have a flat bottomed hole which I did with an end mill. In the centre of the body I have drilled and tapped 1/2" x 40tpi

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2?p=5)

The 5/8" piston body has been turned down to 1/2" for 1/8" and screw cut 1/2" x 40tpi. Drilled through and reamed 3/8"

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2?p=6)

Screw the 2 pieces together

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2?p=7)

And silver solder

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b7b9a58e14eb6cd11d2?p=8)


Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Steamer5 on November 18, 2017, 11:39:17 PM
Hi Rich,
 The boiler is coming on nicely! I bet you are please it pass inspection! Just a comment re fusible plugs, it looks like you don’t have one, I was in a discussion last weekend about these. We are starting to see Duplex boilers being built here & the inspector that passed the boiler was hot on the need to have a fuseable plug. I haven’t got a copy of the code, & it’s currently under review, but it apppears that they are a requirement not only in Duplex but steel (again). Seem to remember that they were always installed in copper as well, but just sort of vanished. Anybody got any info as to why, or as usual did I miss something?

Cheers Kerrin
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on November 19, 2017, 06:10:09 AM
Hi Rich,
The boiler is looking really good, as does pump!
You're making great progress here!

Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on November 19, 2017, 07:56:15 AM
Looking good Rich, on other fabrications you may find it better to do any reaming after soldering as there is a risk of parts distorting slightly due to the heat.

Fusable plugs are not required here by code and are rare on copper boilers particularly in these sizes. You do see them on most steel boilers and some larger copper ones.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 19, 2017, 01:28:15 PM
Hi

Thanks Kerrin, Kim and Jason.

Jason, the bit of 3/8" stainless round I have is a bit tight in the reamed bore so will need some polishing in.

The back head and fire hole have been silver soldered in

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3d2672ac1b80c6df0f78_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3d2672ac1b80c6df0f78?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3d2672ac1b80c6df0f78?p=1)

There is still a lot of work/soldering to do on the back head, stays/bushes/foundation ring etc, too much to do in one go so I have started with 17 stays.

Ready to be soldered inside the firebox

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3d2672ac1b80c6df0f78_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3d2672ac1b80c6df0f78?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3d2672ac1b80c6df0f78?p=2)

After silver soldering

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3d2672ac1b80c6df0f78_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3d2672ac1b80c6df0f78?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3d2672ac1b80c6df0f78?p=3)

Its back in the pickle again now. I might not get a chance to touch it again untill next week.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 19, 2017, 01:38:32 PM
Hi

Back to the axle pump.

The flange is a thick brass washer

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a86c06d9785048603fbc_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a86c06d9785048603fbc?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a86c06d9785048603fbc?p=1)

Standing in a bit of scrap tube 3/4" long and silver soldered in place

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a86c06d9785048603fbc_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a86c06d9785048603fbc?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a86c06d9785048603fbc?p=2)

Make the nut from some hex brass

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a86c06d9785048603fbc_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a86c06d9785048603fbc?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a86c06d9785048603fbc?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a86c06d9785048603fbc_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a86c06d9785048603fbc?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a86c06d9785048603fbc?p=4)

Starting to look like a pump

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a86c06d9785048603fbc_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a86c06d9785048603fbc?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a86c06d9785048603fbc?p=5)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 23, 2017, 08:18:05 PM
Hi

The 17 stays in the back head have silver soldered in along with the 3 lower bushes. Next job was to prepare the remaining bits that need to be silver soldered.

These comprise of the solid stay that runs the length of the boiler, 2 solid stays at the top which go through to the throat plate. 2 bushes for the water gauge held in place by the jig, the regulator bush and the bush for the blower tube.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b25b5801b9b14e17616_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b25b5801b9b14e17616?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b25b5801b9b14e17616?p=1)

After silver soldering

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b25b5801b9b14e17616_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b25b5801b9b14e17616?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b25b5801b9b14e17616?p=2)

turn it over and silver solder the front end of the stays

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b25b5801b9b14e17616_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b25b5801b9b14e17616?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b25b5801b9b14e17616?p=3)

Back in the pickle again

Meanwhile the pump body has a screw fitted to limit the lift of the ball

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b25b5801b9b14e17616_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b25b5801b9b14e17616?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b25b5801b9b14e17616?p=4)

The piston has been turned and here is having the hole drilled and reamed

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b25b5801b9b14e17616_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b25b5801b9b14e17616?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b25b5801b9b14e17616?p=5)

Followed by machining of the slot

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b25b5801b9b14e17616_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b25b5801b9b14e17616?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b25b5801b9b14e17616?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b25b5801b9b14e17616_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b25b5801b9b14e17616?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b25b5801b9b14e17616?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b25b5801b9b14e17616_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b25b5801b9b14e17616?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b25b5801b9b14e17616?p=7)


Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: b.lindsey on November 23, 2017, 08:35:58 PM
I must have missed a post or two Rich. You have made a lot of progress and very enjoyable to watch it coming along.

Bill
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: simplyloco on November 23, 2017, 10:04:02 PM
You are making great progress. I put some cladding on my 3 1/2" Brit back head: it hides a multitude of sins! :popcorn:
John
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4578/26829780179_2b38ed3d3d_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GSRCUT)DSCF0015 (https://flic.kr/p/GSRCUT) by inkaboat (https://www.flickr.com/photos/28837250@N07/), on Flickr
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 24, 2017, 06:10:15 PM
Hi

Thanks Bill  :ThumbsUp:

Thats a clever way to tidy up the beackhead John  :ThumbsUp:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 25, 2017, 04:35:03 PM
Hi

Some more boiler work. The solid stay that goes from the back head all the way through to the smoke box tube plate needs to be silver soldered in.

Heres a rare action shot. The area is being pre heated with a turbo torch before I light the oxy/propane torch

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4?p=1)

After silver soldering

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4?p=2)

One of the bushes on the back head didn't look like it was soldered well enough so I have done it again

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4?p=3)

The foundation ring next. One piece has already been silver soldered in. The next piece is made up and carefully filed until a good fit is achieved. Hold it in place with a couple of 3/32" copper rivets.

But then disaster struck, the $^*+"# drill snapped off.  :help: >:( :( :rant: :facepalm2:

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4?p=4)


Calm down Richard these things are sent to try us, drink some strong coffee and think about it  :headscratch: :thinking:

I could feel on the inside a dimple where the drill was about to come through. Not enough room to get a drill inside but I managed to get in with a centre punch and knock a hole inside. Get a bit of scrap ally and drill a 3/2" hole. Cut off the shank of the broken drill and insert into the hole.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4?p=5)

Clamp the guide and punch to the firebox

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4?p=6)


Sorry folks I have to go I'll continue later

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on November 25, 2017, 04:41:14 PM
Wow!  I feel for you there Rich!  Sorry about that drill bit  :'(

Looks like you've got it figured out though.  Best of luck to you on it.  That is a lot of work you have in that boiler!

Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 25, 2017, 07:51:38 PM
Hi

Sorry about the delay

Another piece of scrap ally with a hole in it on the outside

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4?p=7)

I used a G clamp (sorry no photo) to press the broken drill out

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4?p=8)

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4?p=9)

Drill and fit the copper rivets

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/645a87cf54ad1438b5b4?p=10)


Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on November 25, 2017, 07:53:15 PM
Nice save! Clever way to do it.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on November 25, 2017, 08:21:23 PM
Well done for sure Rich!  Excellent recovery!
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on December 03, 2017, 07:57:36 PM
Hi

Thanks Crueby and Kim  :ThumbsUp:

The pump works  :whoohoo:

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/af485a479a1f3f8907a0.jpg) (https://www.use.com/2017_12_03_1_af485a479a1f3f8907a0)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on December 09, 2017, 01:14:56 PM
Hi

I have been busy this last week so lets bring things upto date.

Last Sunday Julian and I were supposed to be taking our boilers to the club for the Hydraulic tests but things didn't go quite to plan. Our initial tests at home found a few leaks  :( Then my oxygen bottle ran out  :cussing: then we simply ran out of time :facepalm:

Firstly a couple of tooling jobs.

A stand and clamp to hold one of my gas torches
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b0fdb8fddc5e7744cf3_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b0fdb8fddc5e7744cf3?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b0fdb8fddc5e7744cf3?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b0fdb8fddc5e7744cf3_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b0fdb8fddc5e7744cf3?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b0fdb8fddc5e7744cf3?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b0fdb8fddc5e7744cf3_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b0fdb8fddc5e7744cf3?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b0fdb8fddc5e7744cf3?p=3)


Next a cutter to clean up the faces of some bushes.

A piece of 1/2" silver steel drilled and reamed 1/4" and machined exactly half way

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b0fdb8fddc5e7744cf3_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b0fdb8fddc5e7744cf3?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b0fdb8fddc5e7744cf3?p=4)


Harden just the end

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b0fdb8fddc5e7744cf3_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b0fdb8fddc5e7744cf3?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b0fdb8fddc5e7744cf3?p=5)

A piece of 1/4" silver steel screw cut 1/4" x 32 and screwed into the bush

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b0fdb8fddc5e7744cf3_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b0fdb8fddc5e7744cf3?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b0fdb8fddc5e7744cf3?p=6)

The cutter has a relief ground on

The cutter in action

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b0fdb8fddc5e7744cf3_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b0fdb8fddc5e7744cf3?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b0fdb8fddc5e7744cf3?p=7)



At last I think I have it. The boiler in a tub of water and connected to the air line. Don't worry I am fully aware of the danger of compressed air in a boiler. The air line has a regulator on it, I use this to run my engines on air, so there is only about 15 psi in it

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b0fdb8fddc5e7744cf3_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b0fdb8fddc5e7744cf3?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b0fdb8fddc5e7744cf3?p=8)

No bubbles so the next job is to set up for another hydraulic test

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on December 09, 2017, 06:07:25 PM
Hi

Hmmmmmm still not quite there. I filled the boiler with water, It holds about 2.3 litres, and connected the pump and pumped it up to 40 psi. So far so good. The pressure was increased to 80 psi (its working pressure) when I noticed a weep from around the firehole. Its back in the pickle again and give up for today  :disappointed:


Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: b.lindsey on December 09, 2017, 09:27:30 PM
That still sounds good Rich...just one small place should be fixable I hope without too much trouble.

Bill
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on December 10, 2017, 09:58:19 AM
I Hope so Bill.

I have noticed that the silver soldered joints seem to need more heat to re-melt than at first. So I have to take great care not to melt the adjacent joint/bush/stay

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: simplyloco on December 10, 2017, 01:50:10 PM
I Hope so Bill.

I have noticed that the silver soldered joints seem to need more heat to re-melt than at first. So I have to take great care not to melt the adjacent joint/bush/stay

Cheers

Rich

Correct. The phenomenon is called 'Solvation', due to the alloying of the silver solder with the parent metal, hence the rise in melting point.
John
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on December 10, 2017, 01:57:54 PM
When redoing a spot like that I would usually add more solder, to avoid having to overheat the surrounding joints. Not sure if that was the right thing to do, but I figured if there was a starved spot it needed more to fill it in.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on December 15, 2017, 09:12:09 PM
Hi

I'm still struggling with leaks. Well not exactly leaks but minor weeps. Repair one and another rears its ugly head :facepalm:

Julian is having the same problems with his simplex boiler. We have put it down to the fact these are our first boilers so there is bound to be a learning curve.

Patience is a virtue I'm told ::)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on December 15, 2017, 09:33:44 PM
Hi

I'm still struggling with leaks. Well not exactly leaks but minor weeps. Repair one and another rears its ugly head :facepalm:

Julian is having the same problems with his simplex boiler. We have put it down to the fact these are our first boilers so there is bound to be a learning curve.

Patience is a virtue I'm told ::)

Cheers

Rich
I had a bunch of redo's on my fourth one too.... It gets there eventually.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on December 16, 2017, 01:22:13 PM
Hi

Well I got it upto 100 psi on the hydraulic test today. As far as I can see I have one weep in the smokebox but can't quite make out where it is  :noidea:

My best mate doctor Julian has an endescope so we are going to try that later

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on December 16, 2017, 02:18:27 PM
After silver soldering the copper is in an annealed state, and a few pressure ups and downs will work harden it again. I would suggest taking the static test pressure up to 100 and release a few times and see how it weeps. Sometimes it takes care bof itself as the metal is pressed into a low spot. May not change it, sometimes it does.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on December 16, 2017, 06:41:07 PM
Thanks Crueby

I should have mentioned that I first pumped up to 20psi then released the pressure and worked upto the 100 psi releasing the pressure in between.

With Julians clever little gadget we think we have found the leak. Its at a point quite low down where the smoke box tube plate joins to the barrel so should be easy enough to get at.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on December 16, 2017, 07:39:34 PM
Thanks Crueby

I should have mentioned that I first pumped up to 20psi then released the pressure and worked upto the 100 psi releasing the pressure in between.

With Julians clever little gadget we think we have found the leak. Its at a point quite low down where the smoke box tube plate joins to the barrel so should be easy enough to get at.

Cheers

Rich
Excellent - I am always really nervous about the joints that are really deep in and hard to get at.

 :popcorn:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on December 21, 2017, 08:47:49 PM
Hi

The boiler has been soldered again and is back in the pickle, tomorrow if time permits another hydraulic test ::)

Meanwhile 5 eccentrics are needed. One for the axle pump and 4 for the valve gear. Straight forward turning job which I'm sure needs no detailed explanation. They do need to be quite accurate so I used a micrometer instead of my trusty digital calipres. Also it is apparently a bit awkward to set the eccentrics as the grub screw is in the centre which requires the eccentric strap to be removed to loosen/tighten/adjust the eccentric. The 2 inner eccentrics I have made double the width so that the grub screw is on the outside, the outer eccentrics are too close to the frames to have the extra width

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a37f9b292f5e8a534b26_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a37f9b292f5e8a534b26?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a37f9b292f5e8a534b26?p=3)

All 5 eccentrics have the same offset, 1/4" so I have made a little jig. A piece of thick MDF bolted down to the table with both X and Y locked

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a37f9b292f5e8a534b26_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a37f9b292f5e8a534b26?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a37f9b292f5e8a534b26?p=1)

Remove most of the waste with a Forstner bit

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a37f9b292f5e8a534b26_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a37f9b292f5e8a534b26?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a37f9b292f5e8a534b26?p=2)

Finish off with a boring head

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a37f9b292f5e8a534b26_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a37f9b292f5e8a534b26?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a37f9b292f5e8a534b26?p=4)

 
Until the eccentric is a snug fit

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a37f9b292f5e8a534b26_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a37f9b292f5e8a534b26?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a37f9b292f5e8a534b26?p=5)

Clamp the eccentric in position

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a37f9b292f5e8a534b26_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a37f9b292f5e8a534b26?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a37f9b292f5e8a534b26?p=6)

Move the table back exactly .25" and lock in position. Then drill and ream 5/8"

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a37f9b292f5e8a534b26_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a37f9b292f5e8a534b26?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a37f9b292f5e8a534b26?p=7)

Repeat the process for all 5 eccentrics

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a37f9b292f5e8a534b26_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a37f9b292f5e8a534b26?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a37f9b292f5e8a534b26?p=8)


Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: b.lindsey on December 21, 2017, 09:53:02 PM
Rich, I hope the last resoldering will close up that last weepy place for you. The eccentrics look good as well.

Bill
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on December 22, 2017, 09:31:54 PM
Hi

Thanks Bill

The 5 eccentrics have been drilled and tapped 3/16" unf ( because thats the size of the grub screws I have in in stock )

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/65ea0ceb83cd35fef8c0_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/65ea0ceb83cd35fef8c0?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/65ea0ceb83cd35fef8c0?p=1)

After repairing the leak in the smoke box the boiler is set up for a hydraulic test at 50 psi

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/65ea0ceb83cd35fef8c0_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/65ea0ceb83cd35fef8c0?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/65ea0ceb83cd35fef8c0?p=2)

After 20 minutes 2 small weeps were detected

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/65ea0ceb83cd35fef8c0_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/65ea0ceb83cd35fef8c0?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/65ea0ceb83cd35fef8c0?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/65ea0ceb83cd35fef8c0_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/65ea0ceb83cd35fef8c0?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/65ea0ceb83cd35fef8c0?p=4)

But there was no noticable drop in pressure ?? :thinking: :headscratch:

I increasd the pressure to 100psi and the weeps seem to have stopped  :thinking: :headscratch: :noidea: and after another 20 minutes no loss in pressure.

I have released the pressure now and will have another go tomorrow all being well

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on December 22, 2017, 09:57:39 PM
Looking good on the static test, I've seen similar things with very minor weeps sealing themselves up as the pressure presses the copper against the studs. The ones I had never came back. Its the ones that form drop after drop or little streams that are the problem ones.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: NickG on December 23, 2017, 03:08:42 PM
Looking good Rich, I wonder whether they would soon seal up once the fire is lit and start to get baked with combustion deposits. Do all weeps have to be stopped or is it ok so long as the pressure doesn't drop a certain amount?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: b.lindsey on December 23, 2017, 06:56:28 PM
Sounds like you are gaining on it Rich!  The eccentrics look even better finished and in place.

Bill
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on December 24, 2017, 04:00:29 PM
Hi

Thanks Crueby, Nick and Bill.

This is my first loco boiler build so I'm not sure as to the exact requirements of the hydraulic test. I believe it has to hold the test pressure of 160psi for 20 minutes.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on December 24, 2017, 04:27:34 PM
Hi

I have purchased the 5 eccentric straps as gun metal castings. Having had the experience of the (poorly made) hornblocks the first job was to measure them all over. There is enough material on each but not much to spare.

I have cleaned up one face on the disc sander and filed away any bits of casting around the edges.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/effc99372335cd84fa60_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/effc99372335cd84fa60?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/effc99372335cd84fa60?p=1)

I'm not sure as yet as to why the axle pump strap has smaller bolts than the other 4. I intend to use stainless steel cap heads and locknuts on the final assembly so 3mm and 4mm will be used

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/effc99372335cd84fa60_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/effc99372335cd84fa60?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/effc99372335cd84fa60?p=2)

Each strap is number punched top and bottom. No. 5 will be used for the axle pump strap and have smaller bolts

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/effc99372335cd84fa60_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/effc99372335cd84fa60?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/effc99372335cd84fa60?p=3)

Each strap has its bolt holes drilled indexing off the cleaned up face

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/effc99372335cd84fa60_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/effc99372335cd84fa60?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/effc99372335cd84fa60?p=4)

In the mill the straps are seperated with a slitting saw

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/effc99372335cd84fa60_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/effc99372335cd84fa60?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/effc99372335cd84fa60?p=5)

Then bolted together

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/effc99372335cd84fa60_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/effc99372335cd84fa60?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/effc99372335cd84fa60?p=6)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on December 28, 2017, 05:17:16 PM
Hi

Each eccentric has its mating faces skimmed

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3c86b0ac4ac351a4951f_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3c86b0ac4ac351a4951f?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3c86b0ac4ac351a4951f?p=4)

Back to the boiler now. I have knocked up a one way valve for the test rig. I'm noticing a very slight pressure drop on the gauge so I need to eliminate the pump.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3c86b0ac4ac351a4951f_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3c86b0ac4ac351a4951f?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3c86b0ac4ac351a4951f?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3c86b0ac4ac351a4951f_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3c86b0ac4ac351a4951f?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3c86b0ac4ac351a4951f?p=2)

A slight mod to the pipe work

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3c86b0ac4ac351a4951f_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3c86b0ac4ac351a4951f?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3c86b0ac4ac351a4951f?p=3)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on December 28, 2017, 07:41:47 PM
Hi

By George I think I've got it  :cartwheel:  :wine1:  :cheers:  :DrinkPint:  :ThumbsUp:  :whoohoo:

The pressure held at 100 psi for 20 minutes

Ln79noe7D9s
Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on December 28, 2017, 08:22:26 PM
 :cheers:    :agree:    :)    :D    :drinking-41:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on December 28, 2017, 10:32:38 PM
Congratulations, Rich! Well done!
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: 10KPete on December 28, 2017, 10:38:09 PM
Congratulations!!!

 :cartwheel:

Pete
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jo on December 29, 2017, 08:25:23 AM
Well done Rich  :ThumbsUp:

Jo
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on December 29, 2017, 05:52:48 PM
Hi

Thanks Crueby, Pete Kim and Jo  :ThumbsUp:

The eccentric straps need to be bored. 2 ways of doing this , in the lathe in a 4 jaw chuck or on the mill. I opted for the mill as I have a powered Z axis. The straps are mounted on top of the vise, with an angle plate at the left hand end to make mounting all 5 straps easier.

Heres a bit of video showing the boring operation

KoamgVTOb0w
I made a gauge for checking the bore size

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/9e2dca217c0050685e21_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/9e2dca217c0050685e21?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/9e2dca217c0050685e21?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/9e2dca217c0050685e21_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/9e2dca217c0050685e21?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/9e2dca217c0050685e21?p=2)

The same gauge was then remachined to machine the straps to width

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/9e2dca217c0050685e21_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/9e2dca217c0050685e21?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/9e2dca217c0050685e21?p=3)

A trial fit

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/9e2dca217c0050685e21_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/9e2dca217c0050685e21?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/9e2dca217c0050685e21?p=4)


Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: b.lindsey on December 29, 2017, 11:23:09 PM
Nice work Rich, and congrats on the boiler hydro test as well.

Bill
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on January 05, 2018, 11:23:32 AM
Hi

Thanks Bill  :ThumbsUp:

To finish the eccentric straps a 1/8" slot is cut with a slitting saw

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/7bd42c7fc722dd9081a5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/7bd42c7fc722dd9081a5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/7bd42c7fc722dd9081a5)


Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on January 06, 2018, 08:48:30 PM
Hi

The plans call for the eccentric rods to be machined from 3/4" x 1/2" steel.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/dce6ab449f8066497a6c_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/dce6ab449f8066497a6c?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/dce6ab449f8066497a6c?p=10)

Only the fork end is 7/16" the rest has to be machined down to 1/8", a lot of waste. Also the fork end has to be case hardened. I have some of the modern case hardening powder which doesn't work as well as the good old fashioned stuff  :shrug:

I don't have any steel bar that size but I do have some 3/4" x 1/8" so I decided to have a go at fabricating them. I have used silver steel for the fork ends, I figure silver soldering them to the rods will harden them at the same time.

4 fork ends under construction

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/dce6ab449f8066497a6c_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/dce6ab449f8066497a6c?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/dce6ab449f8066497a6c?p=1)

And finished

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/dce6ab449f8066497a6c_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/dce6ab449f8066497a6c?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/dce6ab449f8066497a6c?p=2)

Print out the rods and glue to the steel bar (saves a lot of marking out)

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/dce6ab449f8066497a6c_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/dce6ab449f8066497a6c?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/dce6ab449f8066497a6c?p=7)

No need for great accuracy here just machine them out by eye

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/dce6ab449f8066497a6c_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/dce6ab449f8066497a6c?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/dce6ab449f8066497a6c?p=3)

A little jig to help hold things straight while I silver solder

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/dce6ab449f8066497a6c_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/dce6ab449f8066497a6c?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/dce6ab449f8066497a6c?p=8)

Another jig made accurately so that all 4 eccentrics will be exactly  the same length. A bit of ally the same size as the strap and a steel pin exactly 4 3/16" centres

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/dce6ab449f8066497a6c_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/dce6ab449f8066497a6c?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/dce6ab449f8066497a6c?p=4)

The strap and rod can be assembled on the jig and two 3/32" (2.5mm) holes drilled and fitted with bolts

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/dce6ab449f8066497a6c_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/dce6ab449f8066497a6c?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/dce6ab449f8066497a6c?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/dce6ab449f8066497a6c_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/dce6ab449f8066497a6c?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/dce6ab449f8066497a6c?p=9)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on January 06, 2018, 08:54:59 PM
Silver soldering won't make them hard. To harden the silver steel you need to quench it when it is red hot but that will leave them brittle, you could then try to temper them.

The case only hardens the surface to resist ware but leaves the core in the original state so less brittle and no risk of fracture.

I've not had problems with the newer case hardening powder

The milled slots in your forks look like they will clash with the expansion link, would have been better held vertically and milled across so you have a rectangular bottom to the  opening not half round.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on January 11, 2018, 07:42:04 PM
Hi

Sorry for the delay fellow forum members, something came up and I had to cut my last post short before I could finish
But Jason has spotted some of the issues that I came across, thanks Jason :ThumbsUp:

Firstly a couple of missing photos

A simple jig to hold things square during silver soldering

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/18ed138bcae69fb44037_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/18ed138bcae69fb44037?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/18ed138bcae69fb44037?p=1)

Then file the bottom of the fork square

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/18ed138bcae69fb44037_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/18ed138bcae69fb44037?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/18ed138bcae69fb44037?p=3)

Soldering didn't get the fork hot enough to harden it. My little torch came in handy to heat just the end of the fork to red heat without melting the silver solder

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/18ed138bcae69fb44037_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/18ed138bcae69fb44037?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/18ed138bcae69fb44037?p=2)

Two of the eccentric rods have to bent

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/18ed138bcae69fb44037_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/18ed138bcae69fb44037?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/18ed138bcae69fb44037?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/18ed138bcae69fb44037_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/18ed138bcae69fb44037?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/18ed138bcae69fb44037?p=6)

A trial fit on a bit of 1/4" steel bar

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/18ed138bcae69fb44037_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/18ed138bcae69fb44037?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/18ed138bcae69fb44037?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/18ed138bcae69fb44037_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/18ed138bcae69fb44037?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/18ed138bcae69fb44037?p=6)

A bit of tweaking will be needed but not until final assembly

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on January 12, 2018, 06:10:13 PM
Hi

The eccentric rod for the axle pump is just a plain 1/8" but slightly shorter than the others

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4850d640dc473bd123da_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4850d640dc473bd123da?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4850d640dc473bd123da?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4850d640dc473bd123da_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4850d640dc473bd123da?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4850d640dc473bd123da?p=2)

The eccentric straps all have a little lug that I assume is for an oil cup. I can find no mention of any oil cups on the plans or in the article but I have decided to include them. Drill and tap 3/16" x 40 then drill through 1mm

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4850d640dc473bd123da_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4850d640dc473bd123da?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4850d640dc473bd123da?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4850d640dc473bd123da_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4850d640dc473bd123da?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4850d640dc473bd123da?p=4)

Tis the season of the nasty rust monster so I have dunked them in the zinc plating kit

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4850d640dc473bd123da_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4850d640dc473bd123da?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4850d640dc473bd123da?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4850d640dc473bd123da_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4850d640dc473bd123da?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4850d640dc473bd123da?p=6)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on January 13, 2018, 07:12:55 PM
Hi

Workshop time is going to be a rare commodity over the next 2 or 3 weeks :'( :censored: :rant: so I can't start anything that will take more than an hour or so.

Today I did a bit of simple turning, some crankpins

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/557b8495ecd0fbcbaa3e_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/557b8495ecd0fbcbaa3e?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/557b8495ecd0fbcbaa3e?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/557b8495ecd0fbcbaa3e_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/557b8495ecd0fbcbaa3e?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/557b8495ecd0fbcbaa3e?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/557b8495ecd0fbcbaa3e_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/557b8495ecd0fbcbaa3e?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/557b8495ecd0fbcbaa3e?p=3)

Every little bit is a bit that has to be made  :Lol:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Admiral_dk on January 13, 2018, 08:21:04 PM
Nice progress with many parts completed and to go too. I like the zink plating - it pretties things up in a very useful way  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on January 14, 2018, 12:46:33 AM
Great progress Rich!

It's been a while since I've been able to catch up on your build here.  I often read at work during the week and for some reason, it seems that your hosting service has been blocked by my work's firewall.  So I can't see any of your picture when I read during lunch.  But today, reading from home, I could catch up on your pictures and your eccentric rods look great!  As do all the other little sundry pieces you made today :)

Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 08, 2018, 06:48:53 PM
Hi

I said it would be a while until my next post but at long last here it is.

Thanks Admiral and Kim  :ThumbsUp:

A couple of countersunk washers

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/272017ef80139c1d4279_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/272017ef80139c1d4279?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/272017ef80139c1d4279?p=1)

Next on the list are the cranks. They are made fron 1/2" thick mild steel. Print out some actual size drawings and glue to a bit of 1/2" x 2" steel bar as a guide

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/272017ef80139c1d4279_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/272017ef80139c1d4279?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/272017ef80139c1d4279?p=2)

Using the DRO to accurately centre drill the positions

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/272017ef80139c1d4279_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/272017ef80139c1d4279?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/272017ef80139c1d4279?p=3)

Then drill and ream 9/32" for the crank pins

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/272017ef80139c1d4279_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/272017ef80139c1d4279?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/272017ef80139c1d4279?p=4)

Followed by drilling and reaming 7/16" for the axle

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/272017ef80139c1d4279_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/272017ef80139c1d4279?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/272017ef80139c1d4279?p=5)

Cut off in the bandsaw

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/272017ef80139c1d4279_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/272017ef80139c1d4279?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/272017ef80139c1d4279?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/272017ef80139c1d4279_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/272017ef80139c1d4279?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/272017ef80139c1d4279?p=7)

Fits here

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/272017ef80139c1d4279_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/272017ef80139c1d4279?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/272017ef80139c1d4279?p=8)

Much of the waste removed in the mill

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/272017ef80139c1d4279_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/272017ef80139c1d4279?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/272017ef80139c1d4279?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/272017ef80139c1d4279_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/272017ef80139c1d4279?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/272017ef80139c1d4279?p=10)


Cheers

Rich


Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 09, 2018, 08:34:22 PM
Hi

Having got the cranks roughed out I held them together with a short length of 7/16" silver steel and a 9/32" drill and set them level in the mill vise.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8cb73c301f6dcfd881fa_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8cb73c301f6dcfd881fa?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8cb73c301f6dcfd881fa?p=1)

A face cutter skims all four at once

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8cb73c301f6dcfd881fa_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8cb73c301f6dcfd881fa?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8cb73c301f6dcfd881fa?p=2)

Flip them over and face cut the other side

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8cb73c301f6dcfd881fa_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8cb73c301f6dcfd881fa?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8cb73c301f6dcfd881fa?p=3)

Turn a mandrel and mount in the rotary table and machine the large end

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8cb73c301f6dcfd881fa_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8cb73c301f6dcfd881fa?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8cb73c301f6dcfd881fa?p=4)

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8cb73c301f6dcfd881fa_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8cb73c301f6dcfd881fa?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8cb73c301f6dcfd881fa?p=5)


Turn another mandrel and machine the small end

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8cb73c301f6dcfd881fa_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8cb73c301f6dcfd881fa?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8cb73c301f6dcfd881fa?p=6)

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8cb73c301f6dcfd881fa_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8cb73c301f6dcfd881fa?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8cb73c301f6dcfd881fa?p=7)

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on February 09, 2018, 09:19:09 PM
Nice!

How do the mandrels clamp down on the parts, is the piece on the top a bolt screwing into the base in the chuck?
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 10, 2018, 10:22:32 AM
Hi Crueby

Its a stub of steel about 1" diameter. The ends have been turned down to 7/16" and 9/32" to just under 1/2" in length. The 7/16" end is drilled and tapped 6mm and the 9/32" end drilled and tapped 5mm

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/9083ed633b5137f189d9_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/9083ed633b5137f189d9?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/9083ed633b5137f189d9?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/9083ed633b5137f189d9_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/9083ed633b5137f189d9?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/9083ed633b5137f189d9?p=2)

The mandrel is held in the chuck.

Here the same mandrel is being used in the lathe to turn the 1/32" boss

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/9083ed633b5137f189d9_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/9083ed633b5137f189d9?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/9083ed633b5137f189d9?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/9083ed633b5137f189d9_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/9083ed633b5137f189d9?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/9083ed633b5137f189d9?p=4)

The finished cranks

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/9083ed633b5137f189d9_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/9083ed633b5137f189d9?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/9083ed633b5137f189d9?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/9083ed633b5137f189d9_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/9083ed633b5137f189d9?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/9083ed633b5137f189d9?p=6)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 11, 2018, 12:49:01 PM
Hi

And now for something completely different.

Looking through the plans to see what part to make next I came across the smokebox front plate. This is available as a casting for about £25.00. The casting would still need maching so I looked at whether or not I could fabricate it.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee_24.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=24)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=24)

Next job was to look through available materias and I came up with a bit of 1/8" brass plate and a length of 1/8" x 1/2" brass bar

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=1)

Print out an actual size drawing and stick it to the plate leaving 1/2" extra at the bottom for fixing

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=2)


I have a 7" rotary table that I built some time ago, here's a link to the build

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,2375.0.html

Unfortunately photosuckit have removed all the images but there art a few videos still viewable

A scrap of 18mm MDF cut into a 7" circle

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=4)

The rotary table is centred under the mill, dials set to zero and the X and Y tables locked

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=5)

Drill and countersink 4 6mm holes in the MDF and fix to the rotary table with 4 countersunk cap head screws

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=6)

The brass plate is centre punched in the centre of the hole and centred on the mill. 4 large (5.5mm) self tapping screws
hold the plate down

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=8)

move the table over and drill a start hole.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=9)

Change to 1/4" cutter and cut out the centre

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=10)

Then take lighter cuts to finish to size

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=11)

Move 2 of the screws and machine the outer profile

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=12)

Move the other 2 screws and machine off the bottom edge

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee_13.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee_14.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=14)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=14)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee_15.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=15)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=15)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee_16.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=16)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=16)

Using my home made bending rolls, http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,5751.0.html 

to curve the brass bar

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee_17.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=17)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=17)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee_18.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=18)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=18)

I couldn't get the shape quite right without it springing so I silver soldered  just a part of it then clamped the next piece and silver soldered and so on

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee_19.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=19)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=19)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee_20.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=20)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=20)

Cut off the waste

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee_21.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=21)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=21)

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee_22.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=22)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0c0c45d39dd0be714fee?p=22)

After a spell in the pickle

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/385ca77f13c378aa2243.jpg) (https://www.use.com/385ca77f13c378aa2243)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/385ca77f13c378aa2243)


Looks ok  :)

Cheers

Rich






Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: sco on February 11, 2018, 01:17:33 PM
Looks more than ok from here!  Nice job Rich,

Simon.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 11, 2018, 02:34:20 PM
Hi

Thanks Simon  :ThumbsUp:

Here's a bit of video

CSYDm2GkoV4
Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on February 11, 2018, 03:32:29 PM
Very nicely done, Rich!
The silver soldering must have taken a while, soldering a short bit then waiting for it to cool and reclamping all the time.  But nice results!
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 13, 2018, 07:30:45 PM
Hi

Thanks Kim

The silver soldering didn't take too long, all done in 3 operations. There is a little more work to do yet, the lugs for the smoke box door hinge and I might have to machine down the flange . The plans show it as 5/16" where as I have used 1/2". It might not need machining down as it is just where the outer of the smokebox is fixed to.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on February 14, 2018, 12:03:18 AM
Trying to catch up here. I always enjoy your posts and the last several have been awesome.  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: b.lindsey on February 14, 2018, 12:28:52 PM
Just getting caught back up myself Rich. really nice work and wonderful results!!

Bill
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 15, 2018, 08:02:41 PM
Hi

Thanks Carl and Bill  :ThumbsUp:

To make the little firebox door hinge lugs I machined a bit of 3/16" brass

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/89296a80ca747af571d8_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/89296a80ca747af571d8?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/89296a80ca747af571d8?p=1)

Cut off from the parent material and drill the 1/16" hole

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/89296a80ca747af571d8_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/89296a80ca747af571d8?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/89296a80ca747af571d8?p=2)

Machine the backside

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/89296a80ca747af571d8_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/89296a80ca747af571d8?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/89296a80ca747af571d8?p=3)

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/89296a80ca747af571d8_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/89296a80ca747af571d8?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/89296a80ca747af571d8?p=4)


Machine a slot in the smokebox front

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/89296a80ca747af571d8_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/89296a80ca747af571d8?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/89296a80ca747af571d8?p=5)

And silver solder in

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/89296a80ca747af571d8_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/89296a80ca747af571d8?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/89296a80ca747af571d8?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/89296a80ca747af571d8_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/89296a80ca747af571d8?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/89296a80ca747af571d8?p=7)

2 little steel brackets

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/89296a80ca747af571d8_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/89296a80ca747af571d8?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/89296a80ca747af571d8?p=8)

In place with 2 temporary screws. Rivets will be fitted later

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/89296a80ca747af571d8_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/89296a80ca747af571d8?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/89296a80ca747af571d8?p=9)

A start on the slide bars. 4 lengths of ground stock are cut a little over length

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/89296a80ca747af571d8_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/89296a80ca747af571d8?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/89296a80ca747af571d8?p=10)


The 3/16" holes have been drilled in one end. A piece of ally bar has 4 holes drilled and tapped and the slide bars bolted down

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/89296a80ca747af571d8_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/89296a80ca747af571d8?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/89296a80ca747af571d8?p=11)

Cheers

Rich


Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 17, 2018, 06:46:06 PM
Hi

To machine the slide bars I had to do a lot of messing about with angle gauges, clamps and various cutters but in the end they turned out ok.
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/77169fcc4f654e75ff60_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/77169fcc4f654e75ff60?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/77169fcc4f654e75ff60?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/77169fcc4f654e75ff60_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/77169fcc4f654e75ff60?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/77169fcc4f654e75ff60?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/77169fcc4f654e75ff60_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/77169fcc4f654e75ff60?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/77169fcc4f654e75ff60?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/77169fcc4f654e75ff60_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/77169fcc4f654e75ff60?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/77169fcc4f654e75ff60?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/77169fcc4f654e75ff60_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/77169fcc4f654e75ff60?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/77169fcc4f654e75ff60?p=4)


Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 17, 2018, 07:28:07 PM
Hi

The ornamental ring is the bit that joins the smoke box to the front of the boiler

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8802d3d22f841461a275_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8802d3d22f841461a275?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8802d3d22f841461a275?p=1)

I had a bit of bronze in the scrap box, probably picked up at a steam fair for a few pounds, that will do. Its a straight forward turning job

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8802d3d22f841461a275_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8802d3d22f841461a275?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8802d3d22f841461a275?p=2)

Then part off

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8802d3d22f841461a275_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8802d3d22f841461a275?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8802d3d22f841461a275?p=3)

Enough spare material to make another one

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8802d3d22f841461a275_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8802d3d22f841461a275?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8802d3d22f841461a275?p=4)


A nice fit

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8802d3d22f841461a275_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8802d3d22f841461a275?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8802d3d22f841461a275?p=5)

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 17, 2018, 08:00:29 PM
Hi

The cylinders are going to be a bit of a challenge.  :thinking: :headscratch:

They are available as castings but come at a hefty price, £323.28  :ShakeHead:

They are also gunmetal which is not as long lasting as cast iron. Ok if you are only using the engine occasionally but I expect this engine to do a lot of work so cast iron would be better.

I picked up a couple of pieces of cast iron at a model engineering exhibition for about £60.00 so I am going to have a go at hacking them out of the solid. Here they are with the wood practice piece

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a634b73987d105b326c2_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a634b73987d105b326c2?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a634b73987d105b326c2?p=1)

To save a lot of wasted material I am going to omit the the stub shown here which is the steam exhaust outlet. I intend to either drill and tap the cylinder for a screw in connector or maybe make a flanged fitting. I'll worry about that later

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a634b73987d105b326c2_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a634b73987d105b326c2?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a634b73987d105b326c2?p=2)

First job is to bring the block of cast iron to size

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a634b73987d105b326c2_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a634b73987d105b326c2?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a634b73987d105b326c2?p=3)

Its quite a lump

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a634b73987d105b326c2_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a634b73987d105b326c2?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a634b73987d105b326c2?p=4)

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a634b73987d105b326c2_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a634b73987d105b326c2?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a634b73987d105b326c2?p=5)

I would like to offer you all a piece of advice

Cast iron is a lovely material to machine but it doe's have one small problem.

Its a very dirty material

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a634b73987d105b326c2_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a634b73987d105b326c2?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a634b73987d105b326c2?p=6)

So when the wife shouts quick its raining help me get the washing in either very quickly put on some rubber gloves or pretend you didn't hear her :shrug:

Whatever you do don't grab her best white top :ShakeHead: :slap: :Argue: or you will be in the  :toilet_claw:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: mal webber on February 17, 2018, 08:23:05 PM
Hi, just had a read through on this build did not think I was into locos but really enjoying following along, very nice work  :ThumbsUp:


Mal.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 24, 2018, 08:22:08 PM
Hi

Thanks Mal  :ThumbsUp:

The cylinders need to be bored to 1 3/16". I have never done anything like this before so its going to be a bit of a steep learning curve.

From what I can see boring the cylinder with a between centres boring bar and the cylinder mounted to the cross slide is the best way.

So I am going to need a between centres boring bar. After a bit of research I settled on a design by G H Thomas

I had a bit of steel bar 13" long that would do although at 30mm diameter a bit too thick.

To start I mounted it in the lathe 3 jaw chuck and fixed steady and centre drilled

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=1)

The largest drill I have is 25mm so I turned the end of the bar down to a little under the 25mm

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=2)

Then turned the bar round and centre drilled the other end

Turn a soft centre to 60° and number stamp the position of number one jaw

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=4)

The bar can now be held between centres with a dog at the chuck end. The dog is driven by one of the chuck jaws

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=5)

The bar is turned down to a little under the 25mm

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=6)

I used the powered leadscrew on my lathe, much easier than winding by hand,.

A bit of video

WRYVlYQD9H8
In the mill the bar is cross drilled 3/16" to take the cutter and a flat machined across

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=7)

Then drilled and tapped to take an M6 grub screw

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=8)

There is quite a lot of info on what shape to grind the cutter to. A while back I made some tangential cutters that use round tool steel and have got on really well with them. A very good finish can be achieved both turning and facing so I opted to use the same. I have a little jig I made for sharpening the tool steel

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=10)

An accurate method of setting the cutter would be an advantage. I started with a piece of ally and cut it into this shape

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=11)

Then with a series of drills upto the 25mm drilled the hole

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf_13.jpg) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=13)

The adjusting screw is brass screw cut 40 TPI. which means 1 turn is .025". Turned down 1 end to just under 3/16". A piece of 1 1/4" round brass is drilled and tapped 40TPI. the 2 pieces screwed together and silver soldered

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf_14.jpg) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=14)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=14)

The ally is drilled and tapped 40 TPI through the top and drilled and tapped M6 underneath for a clamping screw

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf_15.jpg) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=15)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=15)

I was trying to figure out how to mark 25 divisions on the adjusting screw so drew it out on the computer

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf_16.jpg) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=16)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=16)

Then a flash of inspiration, print it out on photo paper and stick it on

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf_17.jpg) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=17)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/af2a2b6c7e28de3b2eaf?p=17)

Thats the boring bar completed which took most of yesterday to make.

Today I set it all up in the lathe and gave it a go

I'll post the results in the next installment

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on February 24, 2018, 08:32:42 PM
That boring bar is quite an impressive setup.

Never having used one, makes me wonder what the advantage of that bar over using a boring head on the mill for your cylinders? Is it a question of how deep a hole you can do, or quality of the finished result that makes the between-centers approach a better fit?

Looking forward to seeing this in action!

Chris
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 24, 2018, 09:00:44 PM
Hi Chris

The cylinder is 3 5/8" long at the moment. I have a boring head which I can use on the mill and in the lathe but I doubt I could get a concentric hole. There would be too much flex in the tool.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on February 24, 2018, 09:21:03 PM
Hi

I made a guage to 1 3/16" that will sit on the boring bar so I can check the bore without removing the tool

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=2)

I set the block up in the mill and using the DRO located the front left corner

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=3)

Then centre drilled the position of the centre of the bore

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=4)

The vertical slide mounted on the cross slide and checked for square

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=5)

The block mounted to the vertical slide. A piece of 3/8" flat bar (the width of the T slots) in the bottom slot for the block to sit on. 4  M8 studs and a steel plate hold it securely to the vertical slide. The centre drill in the block was lined up with a centre in the lathe mandrel by moving the cross slide and vertical slide then both were locked in position.

Starting with a long M5 drill

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=6)

Then increasing drill sizes until I got upto the 25mm

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=9)

Then change to boring bar

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=10)

A bit of video

ftSTPD7XyOo
Until the guage fits

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=12)

yEe5HcdwvNo
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16_13.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16_14.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=14)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0d413a3bc2f2411b0e16?p=14)

That was very satisfying  :cartwheel: :whoohoo:

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Barneydog on February 28, 2018, 09:34:49 AM
Saw this block of cast last night. Very impressive.....looks a good job.


Julian
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 02, 2018, 10:11:37 AM
Hi

Thanks Julian, a bit of encouragement is always welcome  :ThumbsUp:

Both cylinder blocks machined to size and bored

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/fc2fb502aec75f9036da_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/fc2fb502aec75f9036da?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/fc2fb502aec75f9036da?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/fc2fb502aec75f9036da_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/fc2fb502aec75f9036da?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/fc2fb502aec75f9036da?p=2)


Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Roger B on March 02, 2018, 03:43:40 PM
Excellent  :praise2:  How were you holding the big drill in the tailstock when you were drilling the 1 3/16 ring gauge, some form of collet?
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 02, 2018, 06:09:20 PM
Hi Roger

I held it in a 1/2" collet with a draw bar

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 03, 2018, 06:55:48 PM
Hi

There is a lot of machining still to do on the cylinders starting with the valve face side. Machining the square that fits through the frames

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=3)

The cylinder is 3 5/8" long at the moment which includes the mounting flanges. I need to reduce the cylinder length to 3". To start I need a mandrel. I need the mandrel to be as secure and solid as possible. The bore through my 3 jaw chuck is 1" so one end of an ally bar is turned to a good 1" finish

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=4)

Then reversed in the chuck and cut to length

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=6)

The bar is machined down to a perfect 1 3/16"

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=8)

Drill the end of the bar 5mm and countersink. Then part off about 3/8" to make a thick washer. Drill the washer 6mm and tap the bar M6. Turn a small shoulder on the bar and fit a 1 3/16" O ring

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=11)

Slip the cylinder onto the mandrel and tighten the countersunk cap head which expands the O ring and holds the cylinder securely

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4_13.jpg) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=13)

My bodged up DRO for saddle. It was one of those temporary jobs 10 years ago but it works

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4_14.jpg) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=14)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=14)

The turning will be done with a boring bar

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4_15.jpg) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=15)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=15)

Some very careful measuring is required to reduce the cylinder portion to 3" in length. Equal amounts have to be removed from each end

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4_16.jpg) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=16)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=16)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4_17.jpg) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=17)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=17)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4_18.jpg) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=18)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/25f86e3701f4cb98dff4?p=18)

Each end is machined out to 1 1/4" for a depth of 1/8" to provide a register for the covers

Cheers

Rich






Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 03, 2018, 08:11:59 PM
Hi

A bit of video

ni58_mnd5_0
Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Steamer5 on March 03, 2018, 08:17:04 PM
Hi Rich,
 That’s some pretty nice work on the cylinders! Love the boring bar, will be using that idea!

Cheers Kerrin
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 03, 2018, 08:28:57 PM
Hi

Thanks Kerrin  :ThumbsUp:

The leftover noggins in the corners are machined off in the mill and the mounting flanges machined down to 3/16"
I have a powered X axis on my mill which makes the job easy

It8mDTDhRV4
After machining each end the cylinders are held at 45° and have the corners machined

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/09a800ae324c186d0546_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/09a800ae324c186d0546?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/09a800ae324c186d0546?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/09a800ae324c186d0546_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/09a800ae324c186d0546?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/09a800ae324c186d0546?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/09a800ae324c186d0546_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/09a800ae324c186d0546?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/09a800ae324c186d0546?p=3)


And finally today the flanges each have 3 4mm holes drilled

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/09a800ae324c186d0546_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/09a800ae324c186d0546?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/09a800ae324c186d0546?p=4)

Cheers

Rich

 

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 03, 2018, 10:26:18 PM
Hi

I will need to fit drain cocks to the cylinders. I came across this design for automatic drain cocks by Stewart Hart

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/21a9445f7858f8405c0d.jpg) (https://www.use.com/21a9445f7858f8405c0d)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/21a9445f7858f8405c0d)

A question please.

Would they be about the right size for cylinders this size?

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 08, 2018, 08:43:25 PM
Hi

Re the drain cocks. GLR Kennions only list 2 types 3/16  x  40  and 1/4  x  40 so I think 1/4  x 40 it is

Time to machine the ports. First I marked out the port faces by using a black marker pen and scratching with digital calipres. Then some careful setting up and using the DRO's. Can't afford to get this wrong. :ShakeHead:

The exhaust port is 5/16" wide so I started with 6mm end mill

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/341b9d2d94aea3ca0154_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/341b9d2d94aea3ca0154?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/341b9d2d94aea3ca0154?p=1)

Then joined the holes up and to depth

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/341b9d2d94aea3ca0154_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/341b9d2d94aea3ca0154?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/341b9d2d94aea3ca0154?p=2)

Then machine to width by taking equal amounts from each side a few thou at a time

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/341b9d2d94aea3ca0154_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/341b9d2d94aea3ca0154?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/341b9d2d94aea3ca0154?p=3)

Followed by the inlet ports. These are 1/8" wide so I used a 3/32" end mill to chain drill and machined to width similar to the exhaust port

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/341b9d2d94aea3ca0154_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/341b9d2d94aea3ca0154?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/341b9d2d94aea3ca0154?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/341b9d2d94aea3ca0154_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/341b9d2d94aea3ca0154?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/341b9d2d94aea3ca0154?p=5)

I broke a couple of the 3/32" end mills but luckily they came out ok. Its a very slow job a few thou at a time

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/341b9d2d94aea3ca0154_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/341b9d2d94aea3ca0154?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/341b9d2d94aea3ca0154?p=6)

Believe it or not this took the best part the day.

Next I have to drill the passages which are a little on the long side. The passages are 1/8" x 3/16".  Reading the text in the article he says to drill the first 1/8" hole then insert a 1/8" rod into the hole and drill the second hole which overlaps the first to give a 1/8" x 3/16" passage.

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm not keen on that idea  :thinking:

If you remember a few pages back when I was machining the regulator body a similar overlapping hole had to be drilled. The first hole drilled ok but the second hole drifted off until the drill snapped and I had to spend quite some time overcoming that problem :Mad: :cussing:

So I think I will drill 2 holes of 1/8" side by side.

I have to figure out a way to accurately angle the cylinder to drill the passages. I have drawn a couple of lines on the plan of the cylinder. The angle is 41° so that might help.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/341b9d2d94aea3ca0154_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/341b9d2d94aea3ca0154?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/341b9d2d94aea3ca0154?p=7)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Florian Eberhard on March 08, 2018, 09:04:38 PM
Hi Rich

For setting up such workpieces at an angle, I use several different methods:

1. use an angle protractor if i can hold it against something straight

2. machine a "vee" block with the required angle out of some aluminium to use it like parallels

3. use another vice: I clamp the part in a not too big vice and then clamp the vice together with the workpiece into the "big vice".

Cheers Florian
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on March 08, 2018, 09:31:01 PM
Nice job on the valve ports, thats always a nerve wracking step.   :ThumbsUp:


For the angled holes, I like to draw the widths and depths of the ports on the outside of the steam chest, move the table in so the drill can be lowered outside the chest to double check the angle visually. Also lets you count turns when raising the drill so you know how deep you can safely drill.


 :popcorn:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on March 08, 2018, 10:55:15 PM
Still  :popcorn:

I enjoyed the videos. It's always good to see what's happening and to hear the sound. Gives me an idea if what I'm doing is 'normal' or not.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: b.lindsey on March 09, 2018, 01:00:57 AM
Nice set-ups and a very nice result on those cylinders. Those are some big hunks of Cast iron!!

Bill
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 10, 2018, 06:17:24 PM
Hi

Thanks Florian, Crueby, Carl and bill  :ThumbsUp:

I used some of the ideas you have suggested, Hopefully I will get the progress posted soon.

My grand daughters birthday today and Mothers day tomorrow.

A quick question though, I might be having one of my thick and stupid moments  :headscratch:  :old:

Take a look at this

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/589771e1370aff5c5112.jpg) (https://www.use.com/589771e1370aff5c5112)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/589771e1370aff5c5112)

I have drawn in the 2 passages I have just drilled on the top drawing

The cylinder covers have the bolt holes oddly spaced but surely one of them is directly over the passage??

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Florian Eberhard on March 10, 2018, 07:20:46 PM

The cylinder covers have the bolt holes oddly spaced but surely one of them is directly over the passage??

Yes that looks the same to me! Could it be that the hole over the passages should be a threaded hole for a dummy screw screwed into the cover instead?

Florian
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: NickG on March 10, 2018, 09:04:23 PM
Florian, that’s the only explanation I can think of too. Dummy screw and it actually looks like the hole is different like it is depicting a thread  but it just says 10x No.34 so not sure. Think I’d do the dummy trick in any case.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 10, 2018, 09:56:19 PM
Hi

Thanks Florian and Nick  :ThumbsUp:

Its not me going daft then, just another error on the plans  ::)

I do like the idea of the dummy bolt, I wouldn't have thought of that  :praise2:

I have found the text from the original article and there is no mention of leaving out the hole over the passages

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/7d9752aa4fb58686211c.jpg) (https://www.use.com/7d9752aa4fb58686211c)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/7d9752aa4fb58686211c)


Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 10, 2018, 10:32:21 PM
Hi

With ideas from Crueby and Florian

Print out the side view of the cylinder and glue on

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f?p=1)


Mount in a tilting vise using the image as a guide

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f?p=3)

Start with a 1/8" end mill

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f?p=4)

Then follow  with a 1/8" drill

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f?p=7)

All went well until the last hole and the end mill snapped off in the hole :help: :facepalm: :facepalm2:

With absolutely now way that I could see of getting it out I opted to drill another hole to one side. I don't think it will affect the performance of the engine and can't be seen so it will be our little secret ;)

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f?p=8)


Drill from the side into the exhaust port

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f?p=9)

Machine away some of the side down to the level of the port which is where the thickness of the cylinder should be

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/e962d9b76ef0cb64bd0f?p=10)

I just need to make up a little lug now, possibly flanged to turn through 90°

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on March 10, 2018, 10:55:04 PM
Rich, sorry to hear about that end mill mishap!  :o
Looks like you've got it figured though.

There is so much work and so many steps to those cylinders!
Looking good!
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on March 10, 2018, 10:56:44 PM
Nicely done (that end mill aside) - At least your fix will work just as well!   :cheers:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: MJM460 on March 11, 2018, 06:40:23 AM
Hi Rich, following along and loving every post.

With those cylinder covers, I notice that your drawing shows the bolt holes on the vertical and horizontal centrelines (and in between of course).  I don't know if that is normal for locomotives or not, but in the industry I come from bolt holes are always put "off centres", so symmetrical about the principal centre lines.  This would normally put the steam ports between two holes, even if a little licence was taken on the spacing to make sure the ones each side of the port are far enough apart.

I am a bit late, I know, but I keep thinking about those drain valves.  I always understood drain valves were to remove condensate from the cylinders when they initially warm up.  The drawing you posted look like the flow to lift the ball is into the cylinder, as in snifter valves, which admit air to the cylinders if the engine is coasting.  Did you want drain valves to drain condensate?  Or snifter valves to admit air instead of drawing a vacuum when coasting?  Or am I misunderstanding the drawing?

Even with that broken mill,my our steam ports seem to have turned out pretty well.

MJM460
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 11, 2018, 08:16:49 AM
Hi

Thanks Kim, Crueby and MJM  :ThumbsUp:

MJM the automatic drain valves are to drain condensate. I'm not 100% sure how they work but a lot of the steam loco guys use them and they are much easier to fit, not requiring any links to operate them

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: NickG on March 11, 2018, 08:18:33 AM
Nicely done Rich, shame about the snap but as you say shouldn’t affect anything. Yes, the larger spacing would have avoided the passages had the pattern been orientated correctly - perhaps that was the intention. Is there a drawing with the pattern of tapped holes on the cylinder or does it ask to spot them through from the covers? On the front covers you could just rotate around to where needed but obviously not on the rears as the slide bars bolt to them. Wonder whether he just has the pattern in the wrong orientation as MJM said. Keeping a real bolt will give Better and more even clamping force but you’ll have to watch your other passage now as it may be closer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: NickG on March 11, 2018, 08:20:00 AM
I can’t really get my head around the automatic drain cocks but a lot of people use them. They are on the 5” gauge loco I’ve just bought, haven’t tried it yet but am told by people in club that they usually work ok.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 11, 2018, 08:32:40 AM
Hi

Martin Evans is well known for errors on his drawings, I have come across quite a few already. Thats all there is in the text re the covers, so I think I will go with the dummy bolt idea.

Heres another similar image for the drain cocks

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/6ef90a6cf0e7656cba7f.jpg) (https://www.use.com/OgVFD)(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/OgVFD)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 11, 2018, 11:53:06 AM
Hi

Just noticed something on the last drawing

E  =  9/16
F  =  5/8

 :headscratch: :thinking: :noidea:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 11, 2018, 12:01:17 PM
Hi

The cylinder covers.

I was going to use brass but my mate julian said I have some bronze that will do.

Well the bronze was a sprue that he acquired from a bronze foundry.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0bfdcd511a470ebb7891_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0bfdcd511a470ebb7891?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0bfdcd511a470ebb7891?p=1)

It took a bit of turning to get it down to a usable 2" bar

But once it was there it machined nicely

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0bfdcd511a470ebb7891_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0bfdcd511a470ebb7891?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0bfdcd511a470ebb7891?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0bfdcd511a470ebb7891_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0bfdcd511a470ebb7891?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0bfdcd511a470ebb7891?p=3)

Heres a neat little trick I picked up. Use magnets as spacers. They are quite accurate and don't fall off

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0bfdcd511a470ebb7891_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0bfdcd511a470ebb7891?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0bfdcd511a470ebb7891?p=4)

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0bfdcd511a470ebb7891_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0bfdcd511a470ebb7891?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0bfdcd511a470ebb7891?p=6)

Now come on, is this starting to look like an engine or what

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0bfdcd511a470ebb7891_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0bfdcd511a470ebb7891?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0bfdcd511a470ebb7891?p=5)

 :DrinkPint:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: MJM460 on March 11, 2018, 12:10:31 PM
Hi Rich, that explanation of how the valves work for both purposes makes sense, thank you.  It's time I tried them.  Much simpler than a screw down type or even the tapered quarter turn type.

MJM460
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 11, 2018, 12:45:48 PM
Hi

I'll post any drawings that I modify in case anyones interested

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/586274798bfae284e744.jpg) (https://www.use.com/OgVG9)(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/OgVG9)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jim Nic on March 11, 2018, 12:48:17 PM
Hey Rich.  That's starting to look like an engine!   :ThumbsUp:
Jim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on March 11, 2018, 01:19:30 PM
There is no need to rotate the covers to clear the passages, IF the passages are done as per the drawing. Original drawing shows TWO passages 3/16 x 1/8"  with a space between which the stud hole can be drilled into.

You may find your engine is a bit strangled with just the two 1/8" holes which give about 60% of the intended area

Much like this one and a lot of other models

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v156/jasonballamy/Fowler%20A7/Cyl2.jpg)
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on March 11, 2018, 02:10:51 PM
Yes Rich, its definitely starting to look very much like an engine!  :ThumbsUp:

Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 11, 2018, 06:03:41 PM
Hi

You are quite right Jason  :ThumbsUp:

It looks like I have misread the plans :facepalm: :embarassed: :wallbang:

I will have to remount the cylinders and drill some more holes

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: NickG on March 11, 2018, 08:08:49 PM
Ah, it all becomes clear!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 12, 2018, 07:54:15 PM
Hi

Now then my learned friends, we have to get out of this predicament. :thinking:

By my calculations  :atcomputer: there are two passages each end of 3/16" x 1/8". The original plans call for two 1/8" overlapping holes to give the 3/16" x 1/8". So the total passage area (each end) is 3/8" x 1/8". As I have not drilled the overlapping holes but drilled them side by side I already have a passage area of 1/4" x 1/8".

So my question is can I get away with just drilling one more 1/8" hole which will give me the 3/8" x 1/8"

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on March 12, 2018, 08:08:21 PM
You need to remember that the passages have rounded corners and are not simple 1/8" x 3/16" rectangles.

Area of passages as drawn is approx 0.04 sq in

Your two 1/8" holes have an area of 0.024sq in, 3 would be 0.036sq in

So still a bit low, what about adding a third hole but making all 3 say 3.3mm dia which would give just a smidge under the .04
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 12, 2018, 08:26:06 PM
Hi Jason

Not sure that I fancy sticking a bigger drill down the already drilled holes.  :thinking:

Would it be better to go for 4 holes ?

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on March 12, 2018, 08:36:22 PM
yes if you can fit them in
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 12, 2018, 08:50:39 PM
Hi

Thanks Jason  :ThumbsUp:

I'm at work now until Thursday  :'( so it will be a few days before I can get back on it

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 15, 2018, 09:29:13 PM
Hi

I decided to go with the 4 holes

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bf251a7cdd2a3e5290ab_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bf251a7cdd2a3e5290ab?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bf251a7cdd2a3e5290ab?p=1)

The end with the broken end mill has 3 holes but opened out to 3.3mm as Jason suggested

I printed out the bolt hole pattern

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bf251a7cdd2a3e5290ab_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bf251a7cdd2a3e5290ab?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bf251a7cdd2a3e5290ab?p=2)

I think I will be ok to drill as per the plans. The hole that is at the steam passage position might break through into the passage but I will fit a stud with a short thread and fit with thread seal

A bit more work on the covers. This is one of the rear covers

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bf251a7cdd2a3e5290ab_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bf251a7cdd2a3e5290ab?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bf251a7cdd2a3e5290ab?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bf251a7cdd2a3e5290ab_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bf251a7cdd2a3e5290ab?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bf251a7cdd2a3e5290ab?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bf251a7cdd2a3e5290ab_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bf251a7cdd2a3e5290ab?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bf251a7cdd2a3e5290ab?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bf251a7cdd2a3e5290ab_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bf251a7cdd2a3e5290ab?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bf251a7cdd2a3e5290ab?p=6)

The curved shape I'm not going to bother with at the minute. It will take a completely different setup to achieve. Maybe later.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 16, 2018, 06:08:57 PM
Hi

Set up in the rotary table to drill the holes. 2 of the holes in the rear covers have to be counter sunk to clear the slide bars

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a0f05fdf664f93d9bc82_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a0f05fdf664f93d9bc82?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a0f05fdf664f93d9bc82?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a0f05fdf664f93d9bc82_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a0f05fdf664f93d9bc82?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a0f05fdf664f93d9bc82?p=2)

Squaring up the cylinder and rear cover to transfer the holes

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a0f05fdf664f93d9bc82_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a0f05fdf664f93d9bc82?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a0f05fdf664f93d9bc82?p=3)


Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 17, 2018, 07:40:31 PM
Hi

There are 40 holes to drill and tap  ::)

Nice and easy doe's it

After spotting all the holes they are drilled 2.5mm then the cylinders are transferred to my tapping aid and tapped 3mm

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f33ab0a94310e5d8a8c1_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f33ab0a94310e5d8a8c1?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f33ab0a94310e5d8a8c1?p=1)

The taps I use are the 3 set type. Its a must that all three are used in the correct order. So its like tapping 120 holes

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f33ab0a94310e5d8a8c1_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f33ab0a94310e5d8a8c1?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f33ab0a94310e5d8a8c1?p=2)

Thankfully all went well. No broken drills or taps

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f33ab0a94310e5d8a8c1_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f33ab0a94310e5d8a8c1?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f33ab0a94310e5d8a8c1?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f33ab0a94310e5d8a8c1_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f33ab0a94310e5d8a8c1?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f33ab0a94310e5d8a8c1?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f33ab0a94310e5d8a8c1_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f33ab0a94310e5d8a8c1?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f33ab0a94310e5d8a8c1?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f33ab0a94310e5d8a8c1_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f33ab0a94310e5d8a8c1?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f33ab0a94310e5d8a8c1?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f33ab0a94310e5d8a8c1_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f33ab0a94310e5d8a8c1?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f33ab0a94310e5d8a8c1?p=7)


Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 17, 2018, 08:02:37 PM
Hi

I am going to need 4 piston rings. They are quite expensive at around £15.00 each so I am having a go at making some. They are made of cast iron.

Car brake cylinders are cast iron, I have used them to make the cylinders on a couple of my engines. A rummage through the bits and pieces box yielded this one

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/64c107208c05cd353e23_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/64c107208c05cd353e23?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/64c107208c05cd353e23?p=1)

Firstly chop off the unwanted bit

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/64c107208c05cd353e23_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/64c107208c05cd353e23?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/64c107208c05cd353e23?p=2)

Turn up a plug to fit the bore and mount in the lathe

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/64c107208c05cd353e23_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/64c107208c05cd353e23?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/64c107208c05cd353e23?p=3)

Turn the outside

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/64c107208c05cd353e23_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/64c107208c05cd353e23?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/64c107208c05cd353e23?p=4)

Its not down to finished size yet. I am going to bore the inside first. Support with the fixed steady

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/64c107208c05cd353e23_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/64c107208c05cd353e23?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/64c107208c05cd353e23?p=5)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on March 17, 2018, 09:06:42 PM
Boy, Rich, lots of progress!  Your covers look good, and you made it through all that taping nonsense without a mishap.  That's worth celebrating right there!
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: NickG on March 18, 2018, 08:28:42 AM
Cylinders look great Rich. Satisfying to fashion those from the solid I bet. Out of interest what was the cost saving compared with the castings? I bet it was nicer stuff to machine and nice having some flat datums to go from!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 18, 2018, 09:20:44 AM
Hi

Thanks Kim and Nick

There is a huge saving hacking them from the solid. The 2 lumps of cast iron were less than £60.00 and the bronze Julian gave me was probably less than £10.00 compared to

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/9e5c98d99e1ab1f75d08.jpg) (https://www.use.com/9e5c98d99e1ab1f75d08)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/9e5c98d99e1ab1f75d08)

And lets not forget the casting set still has to be machined exactly the same but the big difference is mine are cast iron not bronze so should last longer

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 18, 2018, 11:00:41 AM
Hi

I have just gone back to page 1 looking for something unrelated  :noidea: and can you believe this topic was started back in December 2016  :o

Looking at the stats there has been nearly 29000 views, not too many comments but it seems a lot of interest

Doesn't time fly when you are having fun  :lolb:

Its a shame our friends at photosuckit didn't leave existing pictures alone  :cussing: :Mad: :disappointed:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: NickG on March 18, 2018, 12:11:14 PM
Yes much prefer cast iron than gun metal. It’s because a lot of people have something against Loco’s for some reason Rich! Suppose it is an engine forum but this is an “engine” to me!


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Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on March 18, 2018, 01:46:35 PM
Yes much prefer cast iron than gun metal. It’s because a lot of people have something against Loco’s for some reason Rich! Suppose it is an engine forum but this is an “engine” to me!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If it has an engine in it, or is run by an engine near it, thats plenty close enough for me! 

 :popcorn:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 23, 2018, 10:04:14 PM
Hi

Thanks Nick and Crueby  :ThumbsUp:

To continue with the piston rings. The cast iron has been turned internally and externally. I turned a length of steel to a good fit inside and centred and supported with the tail stock.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=2)



Part off the waste from the end and then part off a ring 1/16" wide as a test piece.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=1)

Try for fit in the cylinder, perfect  :whoohoo:

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=3)

Using my DRO, an old set of calipres

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=4)

Part off as many as I could get

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=7)

Split each ring with a pair of cutters

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=8)

carefully open each ring and clip onto a bit of 1/4" square steel and heat up

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=9)

The ring will fall off on its own and retain the open shape

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=10)

All done

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=11)

After a bit of a polish I have 15 rings

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=12)

And they have a spring tension

The valve chests I am also hacking out solid. " pieces machined to size

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e_13.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4bc2728e39dca5cc866e?p=13)

Cheers

Rich






Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: b.lindsey on March 24, 2018, 12:03:53 AM
Nice progress since I last looked in Ruch. Very impressive work, and lcis are definitely engines in my book!!! Such complex projects take time, it's not a race to the finish. Just enjoy the journey  ;)

Bill
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 24, 2018, 07:24:23 AM
Hi

Thanks Bill, I do appreciate the encouragement.  :ThumbsUp:

After parting off the piston rings most of the day was spent just machining the 2 blocks of cast iron to size. Sometimes I don't seem to be getting very far for the time spent.

But speaking of journeys Julian and I are off on a bit of a trek today. I had a cheeky bid on a part built Simplex,
(a 5" gauge 0-6-0) on Ebay  :atcomputer: and I won it  ::)

So thats another one on the to do list  :ROFL:

Hey Jo I think I have caught this compulsive buying bug  :Lol: :Lol: :Lol:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jo on March 24, 2018, 09:02:52 AM
But speaking of journeys Julian and I are off on a bit of a trek today. I had a cheeky bid on a part built Simplex,
(a 5" gauge 0-6-0) on Ebay  :atcomputer: and I won it  ::)

So thats another one on the to do list  :ROFL:

Hey Jo I think I have caught this compulsive buying bug  :Lol: :Lol: :Lol:

 :-X
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 24, 2018, 06:44:19 PM
Hi

Ok Joe enough said :Lol:

Heres what todays little trip yeilded

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/2d9e5fc8171a3b7b80c9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/2d9e5fc8171a3b7b80c9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/2d9e5fc8171a3b7b80c9)

Back to Conway. The valve chests are first centre drilled then chain drilled with a 1/4" drill then machined out with a 1/4" cutter

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/9d250310a6d3b717a002_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/9d250310a6d3b717a002?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/9d250310a6d3b717a002?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/9d250310a6d3b717a002_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/9d250310a6d3b717a002?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/9d250310a6d3b717a002?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/9d250310a6d3b717a002_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/9d250310a6d3b717a002?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/9d250310a6d3b717a002?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/9d250310a6d3b717a002_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/9d250310a6d3b717a002?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/9d250310a6d3b717a002?p=4)

8 fixing holes drilled. I used the DRO to drill all the holes

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/9d250310a6d3b717a002_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/9d250310a6d3b717a002?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/9d250310a6d3b717a002?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/9d250310a6d3b717a002_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/9d250310a6d3b717a002?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/9d250310a6d3b717a002?p=6)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: J.L. on March 24, 2018, 09:01:23 PM
Hello Rich,
As a novice,I can drop into this wonderful thread almost anywhere and learn so much .
Superb build. Your photos are self-explanatory.
John
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 29, 2018, 09:09:40 PM
Hi

Thanks John  :ThumbsUp:

More drilling and tapping of the cylinders. Once again using the DRO

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4?p=1)

The valve chest covers are a straight forward job as per the plans and again using the DRO. All the bolt holes are drilled for 3mm bolts and the 2 holes for the steam inlet are tapped 4mm

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4?p=3)

The valve chests are held in the mill vise and the edge found with an edge finder. Then using the DRO centre drill for the valve rod

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4?p=4)

In the lathe with the 4 jaw chuck centred with a spring loaded centre and DTI

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4?p=5)

Drill and ream 5/32

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4?p=6)

I have a set of transfer punches

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4?p=7)

Which accurately centre punch the opposite side

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4?p=8)

The reamer is no where near long enough to go all the way through so I have just drilled with a long series 5/32 drill. My tailstock DRO is useful for depth drilling

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4?p=9)

Finally drill and tap 3/8 x 32. The tapping size is 11/32" luckily I had an 11/32" end mill to flat bottom the hole before tapping

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b00bbe8d03625dcacdf4?p=10)

Now all I have to do is repeat the process on the other valve chest

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on March 30, 2018, 05:32:57 AM
Nice progress, Rich.

That picture of you holding one of the cylinders really shows the size!  This is much bigger that I've been picturing!

Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on March 30, 2018, 07:16:21 PM
Hi

Thanks Kim  :ThumbsUp:

Heres something I should have done before machining the steam chests.  :facepalm:

Make the slide valve rod glands.

Here the phospher bronze has been turned down to 1/2" then turned down to 3/8" and screw cut 3/8  x 32. In the rotary table to have 8 holes drilled around the edge

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3b87804cb33032ec6c72_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3b87804cb33032ec6c72?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3b87804cb33032ec6c72?p=1)

Part off and make another

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3b87804cb33032ec6c72_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3b87804cb33032ec6c72?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3b87804cb33032ec6c72?p=2)

Put the valve chest back in the 4 jaw and re align with the DTI. Screw in the gland and drill and ream. This ensures that all lines up perfectly

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3b87804cb33032ec6c72_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3b87804cb33032ec6c72?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3b87804cb33032ec6c72?p=3)

Turn the bosses on each end

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3b87804cb33032ec6c72_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3b87804cb33032ec6c72?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3b87804cb33032ec6c72?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3b87804cb33032ec6c72_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3b87804cb33032ec6c72?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3b87804cb33032ec6c72?p=5)

Thats better

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Tennessee Whiskey on March 30, 2018, 07:44:11 PM
Rich, I haven’t commented much, but, I have been faithfully following your build. The work is spectacular and the photos and documentation are truly top notch. A lot of us say: “filing that away for future reference “; well if I ever have the time to pursue a loco, I’m following this build  :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:.

Cletus
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on April 02, 2018, 12:45:43 PM
Hi

Thanks Cletus  :ThumbsUp:

You may have noticed on the drawing that I penciled in to drill and tap 1/4" x 32 in the end of the boss. Thats because when I drilled through with the 5/32" it touched into the centre drilled hole  :facepalm:  :Doh: so I had to make a couple of little brass plugs

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=2)

While I am set up for screw cutting 32 tpi I made the piston rod glands

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=3)

The slide valves are of phosphor bronze. I had to use a bit of round and machine down to 1 1/16" x 7/8"

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=5)

Then lots of little milling operations with the help of DRO

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e_13.jpg) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/252e74c4b88dbb005d2e?p=13)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on April 05, 2018, 07:03:34 PM
Hi

A pair of slide valves

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=1)

A pair of valve rods

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=2)

A pair of piston rods. I have used 1/4" BSF which is 26 TPI simply because thats what I have

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=3)


Moving onto the pistons. Because I have gone with cast iron cylinders the pistons also are going to be cast iron. I decided to have a practice on a bit of scrap steel first.

Turn to 1 3/16" and check for size with one of the cylinders

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=5)

Cut a ring groove. I have used a small parting tool that is not quite a 1/16" wide so after the initial cut the groove has to be widened a gnats

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=6)

Try a ring for fit

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=7)


All looked well so I moved onto the cast iron. Firstly turn to a .010" over size

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=8)

Cut 2 piston ring grooves

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=9)

Drill and tap 1/4" x 26 BSF.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=10)

Then drill with a letter D drill which is a few thou under a 1/4" for a depth of 1/4". The piston rod is held in a collet in the tail stock and turning the chuck by hand is screwed in tight into the piston. The 1/4" piston rod pulling in tight into the letter D drilled portion. This ensures the piston rod and piston are in line

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=11)

Part off

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=12)

Try a piston ring

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6_13.jpg) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/ad0ba69da252dfd61fb6?p=13)

The piston rod will next be held in a collet in the head stock and the piston turned to a finish

Cheers

Rich





Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on April 05, 2018, 08:57:10 PM
As a novice,I can drop into this wonderful thread almost anywhere and learn so much .

Ditto.

Rich's threads was one of the first I came across when I joined the forum. Always enjoyable.
Always hoping for a peek out his windows too.  ;D
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on April 06, 2018, 08:06:36 PM
Hi

Thanks Carl  :ThumbsUp:

With both pistons and rods assembled its in the lathe in a collet to finish to size

0Awmhihs55U
A thou at a time until a nice fit is obtained

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a17a6c5805c392c248a0_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a17a6c5805c392c248a0?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a17a6c5805c392c248a0?p=1)

To help with fitting the pistons into their cylinders I turned up a bit of steel tube

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a17a6c5805c392c248a0_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a17a6c5805c392c248a0?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a17a6c5805c392c248a0?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a17a6c5805c392c248a0_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a17a6c5805c392c248a0?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a17a6c5805c392c248a0?p=3)

Fit a pair of piston rings

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a17a6c5805c392c248a0_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a17a6c5805c392c248a0?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a17a6c5805c392c248a0?p=4)

Liberally coat in oil and fit the piston into its guide. Then hold the guide into the cylinder and push the piston in

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a17a6c5805c392c248a0_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a17a6c5805c392c248a0?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a17a6c5805c392c248a0?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a17a6c5805c392c248a0_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a17a6c5805c392c248a0?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a17a6c5805c392c248a0?p=6)

ycxjKZu-e40
The slide valves each need a nut. 3/8" square stainless steel is called for so in the mill to square off a bit of 5/8" round stainless steel bar

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a17a6c5805c392c248a0_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a17a6c5805c392c248a0?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a17a6c5805c392c248a0?p=7)

Drill, ream and tap as per the plans ecept that I have used 3/16" unf for the grub screw as I had some stainless ones

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a17a6c5805c392c248a0_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a17a6c5805c392c248a0?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a17a6c5805c392c248a0?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a17a6c5805c392c248a0_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a17a6c5805c392c248a0?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a17a6c5805c392c248a0?p=10)

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on April 06, 2018, 09:24:24 PM
How did that steel tube guide help in getting the piston in. Keeps it straight and lined up?
How was that different than getting it into the steel tube?
Thanks.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on April 06, 2018, 09:58:16 PM
Hi Carl

Each end of the cylinder has a recess of 1 1/4" machined into it to locate the cylinder covers. The piston ring enters this first making it difficult to squeeze the ring into the 1 3/16" bore. The steel tube has a bore of 1 3/16" the same as the cylinder and the first bit of the tube outer is turned down to 1 1/4" which sits in the recess. By keeping pressure on the tube the piston can be pushed through the tube and straight into the bore.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on April 14, 2018, 09:28:30 PM
Hi

The expansion links and die blocks are next on my agenda

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/2b7bcfe1fbcf8c5a6200_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/2b7bcfe1fbcf8c5a6200?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/2b7bcfe1fbcf8c5a6200?p=4)

You will see from the drawing that the expansion links (and the die blocks which are not shown) have a radius of 4 9/16"
a diameter of over 10". I have a 4" rotary table and a home made 7" rotary table but clearly the are no where near big enough. 10" rotary tables are way beyond my budget although I have had the need to machine large arcs/curves on other projects. On those I have managed to cobble something together but its been far from satisfactory. I have had an idea in mind for some time so now was the time to put the idea into practice by making an 11" rotary table.

Its basically a car brake disc, nicely machined on all surfaces. A bit of 10mm thick steel plate with another steel disc an exact fit in the centre of the disc bolted to it. the disc revolves around the steel disc. Another large disc this time of 1/4" thick brass fits inside the disc and bolts down with springs on the bolts to provide pressure while still leaving the disc free enough to turn

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/2b7bcfe1fbcf8c5a6200_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/2b7bcfe1fbcf8c5a6200?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/2b7bcfe1fbcf8c5a6200?p=1)

The brass disc is centre drilled which allows me to centre it in the mill

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/2b7bcfe1fbcf8c5a6200_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/2b7bcfe1fbcf8c5a6200?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/2b7bcfe1fbcf8c5a6200?p=2)

zCeSvCy-9Pk
A circular piece of 20mm thick MDF is fitted on top with 4 counter sunk 6mm socket head screws. The MDF is sacrificial and will be replaced whenever neccacery. I printed out a 360° protractor, I had to print on 2 sheets of paper and join in the middle as a guide. The table is hand operated by a piece of steel bar inserted into the disc vents. An adjustable stop from a piece of angle iron and a bar bolted to the underside of the disc with 2 6mm bolts.  2 bolts are fitted into the slot in the angle iron as adjustable stops

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/2b7bcfe1fbcf8c5a6200_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/2b7bcfe1fbcf8c5a6200?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/2b7bcfe1fbcf8c5a6200?p=3)

Total cost, well next to nothing. The disc I got from work (one of those things that had been lieing around for ages) and the rest came out of the things that will come in handy one day box.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on April 14, 2018, 09:38:54 PM
Nice one. That's something to remember.  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on April 14, 2018, 10:15:53 PM
Hi

Thanks Carl  :ThumbsUp:

I forgot to show the table locking device

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/86d2eab5c4fcc940e4b6_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/86d2eab5c4fcc940e4b6?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/86d2eab5c4fcc940e4b6?p=6)

Looking around my stock of phospher bronze I found what I think is a brake shoe. I must have picked it up at a steam fair for a few pence but it would yield the die blocks.

Screw it to the table

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/86d2eab5c4fcc940e4b6_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/86d2eab5c4fcc940e4b6?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/86d2eab5c4fcc940e4b6?p=1)

Move the mill table over the required amount and machine the inside face

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/86d2eab5c4fcc940e4b6_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/86d2eab5c4fcc940e4b6?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/86d2eab5c4fcc940e4b6?p=2)

There is enough material for three die blocks. Drilla nd ream the 5/32" holes

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/86d2eab5c4fcc940e4b6_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/86d2eab5c4fcc940e4b6?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/86d2eab5c4fcc940e4b6?p=3)

Move the mill table again and machine the outer face

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/86d2eab5c4fcc940e4b6_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/86d2eab5c4fcc940e4b6?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/86d2eab5c4fcc940e4b6?p=4)

Cut out the three die blocks and finish to size

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/86d2eab5c4fcc940e4b6_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/86d2eab5c4fcc940e4b6?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/86d2eab5c4fcc940e4b6?p=7)

Cheers

Rich



Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on April 14, 2018, 11:01:57 PM
That worked great! Gotta love ingenuity!   :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on April 19, 2018, 08:28:55 PM
Hi

Thanks Chris  :ThumbsUp:

The expansion links are machined in a similar way. Print out and stick a template to a piece of 1/4"  X  1 1/4" gauge plate. Drill 3 holes. 2 are part of the link the 3rd is in the waste area

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/268dd895820932e97a3b_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/268dd895820932e97a3b?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/268dd895820932e97a3b?p=1)

Cut the first link off the bar and use as a drill guide to drill the second piece. Screw them to the rotary table as a pair. Machine the slot first then the outer profile.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/268dd895820932e97a3b_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/268dd895820932e97a3b?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/268dd895820932e97a3b?p=2)

After machining

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/268dd895820932e97a3b_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/268dd895820932e97a3b?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/268dd895820932e97a3b?p=3)

Testing with a die block. The die block hasn't been finished to size yet

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/268dd895820932e97a3b_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/268dd895820932e97a3b?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/268dd895820932e97a3b?p=4)

Cheers

Rich


Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on April 26, 2018, 08:11:06 PM
Hi

The brackets are machined from 1/2" square BMS

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/144b0fc55c43dfd85056_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/144b0fc55c43dfd85056?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/144b0fc55c43dfd85056?p=1)

Profiling

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/144b0fc55c43dfd85056_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/144b0fc55c43dfd85056?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/144b0fc55c43dfd85056?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/144b0fc55c43dfd85056_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/144b0fc55c43dfd85056?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/144b0fc55c43dfd85056?p=3)

Not exactly the shape on the plans but they can't be seen and this isn't a show standard engine

The studs I made as one shaft, pushed through with a bit of loctite in the bracket then the centre part hacksawed out. The links are drilled and tapped M3 and the brackets drilled 3mm

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/144b0fc55c43dfd85056_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/144b0fc55c43dfd85056?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/144b0fc55c43dfd85056?p=4)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on April 26, 2018, 09:31:38 PM
Hi

Moving onto the crossheads.

Once again gun metal castings are available but at nearly £40.00 its worth making them. I am using cast iron because I have a bit. Cast iron and the steel of the slide bars are a good combination of materials.

Firts job is to machine the block of cast iron to size

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/420f825f2ba65ffa1b22_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/420f825f2ba65ffa1b22?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/420f825f2ba65ffa1b22?p=1)

Then each side has a 5/16" wide slot machined

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/420f825f2ba65ffa1b22_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/420f825f2ba65ffa1b22?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/420f825f2ba65ffa1b22?p=2)

Testing with a bit of 5/16" square. Aiming to get a good fit

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/420f825f2ba65ffa1b22_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/420f825f2ba65ffa1b22?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/420f825f2ba65ffa1b22?p=3)

My usual method of printing out exact size and gluing to the work piece

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/420f825f2ba65ffa1b22_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/420f825f2ba65ffa1b22?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/420f825f2ba65ffa1b22?p=4)


In the mill and machine away some of the waste. I have enhanced some of the print out with a marker pen

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/420f825f2ba65ffa1b22_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/420f825f2ba65ffa1b22?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/420f825f2ba65ffa1b22?p=5)

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/420f825f2ba65ffa1b22_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/420f825f2ba65ffa1b22?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/420f825f2ba65ffa1b22?p=6)

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: b.lindsey on April 27, 2018, 01:01:34 AM
I have missed a few posts Rich, but the progress is amazing and as has been said, the photos are excellent as usual.

Bill
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on April 29, 2018, 08:32:11 PM
Hi

thanks Bill  :ThumbsUp:

The two cross heads are seperated and some more material machined away

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/11c75b341df0838ee2de_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/11c75b341df0838ee2de?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/11c75b341df0838ee2de?p=3)

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/11c75b341df0838ee2de_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/11c75b341df0838ee2de?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/11c75b341df0838ee2de?p=1)

Then the slot

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/11c75b341df0838ee2de_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/11c75b341df0838ee2de?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/11c75b341df0838ee2de?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/11c75b341df0838ee2de_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/11c75b341df0838ee2de?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/11c75b341df0838ee2de?p=4)

Drill and ream

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/11c75b341df0838ee2de_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/11c75b341df0838ee2de?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/11c75b341df0838ee2de?p=5)

Then open out one side and countersink

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/11c75b341df0838ee2de_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/11c75b341df0838ee2de?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/11c75b341df0838ee2de?p=6)

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/11c75b341df0838ee2de_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/11c75b341df0838ee2de?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/11c75b341df0838ee2de?p=7)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on April 29, 2018, 08:45:55 PM
Hi

A bit of experimental work. The gudgeon pin looks like a right tricky little so and so.

Start with some 1/4" silver steel and drill

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/850fbb1966a8ca903541_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/850fbb1966a8ca903541?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/850fbb1966a8ca903541?p=1)

Machine the end

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/850fbb1966a8ca903541_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/850fbb1966a8ca903541?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/850fbb1966a8ca903541?p=2)

Part off

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/850fbb1966a8ca903541_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/850fbb1966a8ca903541?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/850fbb1966a8ca903541?p=3)

Turn round and countersink

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/850fbb1966a8ca903541_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/850fbb1966a8ca903541?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/850fbb1966a8ca903541?p=4)

These 2 are M5 and 2 BA. The M 5 might be too big on the head. I am going to try M4 next to see which is the best fit.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/850fbb1966a8ca903541_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/850fbb1966a8ca903541?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/850fbb1966a8ca903541?p=5)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on April 29, 2018, 08:55:29 PM
Nicely done.

I know it would be tricky for me. What made it tricky for you?
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on April 30, 2018, 08:55:00 PM
Hi

Carl, I just don't get on too well with really small parts. I doubt I could get a good enough finish on the shank part of the gudgeon pin. Using a bit of silver steel that is already finished to a high degree seemed a better option.

I'm not going to do any more to the crossheads for now. Some more fettling will be required to get the con rods to fit nicely so without further ado lets get on with the con rods.

I bought the con rods as laser cut parts. At £8.46 each its not bad. To make them myself I would still have to buy the material.

Here they are

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c31eb1ebe5661433605d_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=1)

A quick measure up first. there is not a lot to spare. The big end needing only 6 thou off each side. It was then I noticed they are not straight.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c31eb1ebe5661433605d_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c31eb1ebe5661433605d_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=12)

I am assuming the heat generated by the laser cutting must have warped them. So a bit of gentle persuasion in the press  was called for

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c31eb1ebe5661433605d_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=6)

Set up in the mill using the DRO to accurately drill the holes

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c31eb1ebe5661433605d_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=2)

Drill the holes

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c31eb1ebe5661433605d_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c31eb1ebe5661433605d_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=4)

A  bit of scrap something or other to make a jig

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c31eb1ebe5661433605d_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=5)

2 short pins are drilled 6mm so that the studs and T bolts fit through. Extra clamps that can be moved around as nec

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c31eb1ebe5661433605d_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c31eb1ebe5661433605d_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=8)

Machine the big end

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c31eb1ebe5661433605d_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=9)

Change the clamps around, machine the con rod then the small end

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c31eb1ebe5661433605d_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=10)

Machine the big ends as a pair. drill for the oil hole

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c31eb1ebe5661433605d_13.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c31eb1ebe5661433605d_14.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=14)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=14)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c31eb1ebe5661433605d_15.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=15)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=15)

Some more filing will be required to clean them up. I have drilled the small end 3/8" because I have some ball bearings that size. I might still go with the bronze bushes for now. If they wear quickly I will change them for bearings

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c31eb1ebe5661433605d_16.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=16)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c31eb1ebe5661433605d?p=16)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on May 03, 2018, 09:14:37 PM
Hi

The con rods are given a polish up

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7?p=1)

The coupling links are similar to the con rods but slightly shortly

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7?p=3)

Measuring them I found they are .230 thick which is under the 1/4" on the plans. Thats not even 6mm. Its not a problem as the bushes are the critical width. I have decided not to machine the width but leave them flat.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7?p=5)


After machining and polishing which is similar to the con rods I gave them all a dip in the zinc plating kit

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7?p=2)

After plating

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7?p=6)

Bushes for the con rods are straight forward turning jobs

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7?p=8)

In the text it says not to make and fit the coupling rod bushes until after the wheels have been quartered so I'll leave them for now.

The intermediate valve rod cross heads are machined as per the plans

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/27f2ea670cfe0c0efef7?p=9)

Cheers

Rich




Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on May 06, 2018, 06:58:10 PM
Hi

Some more bits

The weigh shaft bearings, a simple turning and drilling job

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b8a2a6bb1e9954e551a_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b8a2a6bb1e9954e551a?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b8a2a6bb1e9954e551a?p=2)

The plans show them as lozenge shaped, I assume castings are available.

They fit here

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b8a2a6bb1e9954e551a_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b8a2a6bb1e9954e551a?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b8a2a6bb1e9954e551a?p=3)

They can't be seen so I am not going to spend time machining them to shape as per the plans.

The valve spindle couplings are also fairly straight forward and are machined as per the plans except I am tapping one side M5

Start by preparing a couple of bits of steel to size

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b8a2a6bb1e9954e551a_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b8a2a6bb1e9954e551a?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b8a2a6bb1e9954e551a?p=4)

Drill and tap

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b8a2a6bb1e9954e551a_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b8a2a6bb1e9954e551a?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b8a2a6bb1e9954e551a?p=5)

Then machine out the corner and profile

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b8a2a6bb1e9954e551a_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b8a2a6bb1e9954e551a?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b8a2a6bb1e9954e551a?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1b8a2a6bb1e9954e551a_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1b8a2a6bb1e9954e551a?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1b8a2a6bb1e9954e551a?p=7)


Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on May 12, 2018, 07:51:05 PM
Hi

The reversing lever and stand has some small fiddly bits so I'll show a bit of the detail

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_27.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=27)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=27)

Starting with a couple of bits of 1/8" steel plate drilled as per the plans

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=1)

A couple of washers on each bolt as spacers

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=3)

My home made rotary table being centred and squared under the quill

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=4)


Move the table over 3 1/4" and position and mount the stand

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=5)


Machine the outer then the inner radius

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=8)

Machine the outer faces to size

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=11)

The stand fits here

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_13.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=13)


The reversing lever starts as a piece of 3/8"  X  1/8" steel flat bar. I used the DRO to accurately drill the holes

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_14.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=14)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=14)


Roughly shape the handle leaving oversize

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_15.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=15)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=15)

You can see on the plans that the handle is 3/16" at the top but the steel is only 1/8" thick.

Heat up then hammer until its 3/16" thick

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_16.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=16)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=16)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_17.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=17)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=17)

Square up in the mill with extra support from an angle plate and centre drill

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_18.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=18)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=18)

In the 4 jaw and centre with a Dti

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_19.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=19)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=19)

Turn the top slide a few degrees and carefully turn using a tail stock centre to support

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_20.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=20)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=20)


Turn a couple of spacers 1/8" thick

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_21.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=21)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=21)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_22.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=22)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=22)


The trigger starts as a bit of steel in the mill and carefully shape

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_23.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=23)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=23)

Drill 2 holes

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_24.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=24)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=24)

Cut off and file to shape

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_25.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=25)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=25)

A 1/8" slot is milled across the bottom, sorry no photo I forgot  :old:

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/30a361bbc8523112bd4d_26.jpg) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=26)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/30a361bbc8523112bd4d?p=26)


Thats it so far

Cheers

Rich





Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on May 12, 2018, 09:10:13 PM
Nice job on that handle. It wouldn't have occurred to me (lack of experience) to heat and hammer to make it thicker. Nice.  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on May 13, 2018, 02:11:46 PM
Hi

Thanks Carl :ThumbsUp:

Some good news today. I took the boiler to our club and had the initial hydraulic test done. This is carried out at twice working pressure 160psi. I 'm happy to say it passed  :whoohoo: :wine1: :cheers: :DrinkPint:

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/7d8711d7622d65d371a6_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/7d8711d7622d65d371a6?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/7d8711d7622d65d371a6?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/7d8711d7622d65d371a6_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/7d8711d7622d65d371a6?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/7d8711d7622d65d371a6?p=2)

A major milestone reached and passed  :cartwheel:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on May 13, 2018, 03:02:22 PM
Congratulations!!   :whoohoo:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on May 13, 2018, 03:13:59 PM
Congratulations, Rich! That is quite a milestone!  You must be happy to have that done  :cartwheel:

I have to say, you guys have very uncomfortable looking benches there...
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on May 13, 2018, 05:32:34 PM
Hi

Thanks Chris and Kim :ThumbsUp:

A question my learned friends. I have to quarter the wheels. there is nothing in the article which explains how to do this but I have looked it up and think I know how to do it.

the wheels and cranks are separate and are glued to the axles. Is this the right way for wheel and crank. The driving wheels have the balance weight so assume the crank pin is opposite the weight :headscratch: :thinking:

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/7844ed792c9a3217236a.jpg) (https://www.use.com/7844ed792c9a3217236a)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/7844ed792c9a3217236a)

Cheers

Rich
Title: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: NickG on May 13, 2018, 06:48:22 PM
Hi Rich, reversing lever looks good, would never have thought of forging the handle!!

You have the right idea with the crank pins opposite the balancing weights (see attached), but that isn’t quartering the wheels. Quartering is getting the crank pins 90 degrees apart from one side of axle to other. Some people do this in the large between centres or I think on a surface plate have two blocks with holes to accept crank pins drilled at the correct heights. Some sort of jig like that anyway. Something to hold in place at 90 degrees while loctite sets before pinning the ends, if that’s your chosen method.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180513/b9765beee1c87ada7fa8c9535799122c.jpg)
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on May 13, 2018, 07:09:47 PM
Hi Nick

Thanks for the confirmation. Yes the wheels and cranks will be loctited on. I will make a jig to quarter the wheels. Some people say loctite alone is strong enough to hold the wheels and cranks, others say pin after the loctite has set to make doubly sure.
Any thoughts on that??

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: NickG on May 14, 2018, 09:22:27 PM
Pin / no pin is An interesting one. Was just thinking, what is the force going through it? Not a lot - you aren’t trying to rotate the wheel off the axle in this case as the drive is on the wheel itself, so there’s every chance loctite would work on it’s own.

Guess that’s totally different with inside cylinders and a crankshaft.

I can’t see any pins in mine, you never know it could be a press fit, but then
That’d be more difficult to get quartered.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on May 15, 2018, 09:26:44 PM
Hi

Thanks Nick :ThumbsUp:

I have just searched through the article and found this

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/ce6aa41e8b718b21bde9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/ce6aa41e8b718b21bde9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/ce6aa41e8b718b21bde9)

Lotite it is then

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on May 18, 2018, 01:17:32 PM
Hi

A bit of jig making in the form of a lift. When the boiler is fitted into the frames it will be too heavy to safely man handle it about the bench, turn it over etc

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/05fe4f5f382a43cdaad1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/05fe4f5f382a43cdaad1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/05fe4f5f382a43cdaad1)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on May 18, 2018, 01:24:10 PM
Oh, I like the the lift! I want one for my steam shovel model!
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on May 18, 2018, 02:03:10 PM
Thanks Chris

Its mostly aluminium out the scrap box. It clamps to the rails each end so the loco will drop down back onto the rails. The handles were salvaged from a cheapo workmate type bench. By slackening one nut each end the loco will rotate through 360°

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on May 18, 2018, 03:26:19 PM
Thanks Chris

Its mostly aluminium out the scrap box. It clamps to the rails each end so the loco will drop down back onto the rails. The handles were salvaged from a cheapo workmate type bench. By slackening one nut each end the loco will rotate through 360°

Cheers

Rich
Slick. I've seen it done for working on car bodies, never thought of doing it for a model. Hmmm... wheres that old workmate...
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Tennessee Whiskey on May 18, 2018, 05:10:47 PM
Rotisserie loco mount: I love it  :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:

Cletus
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on May 19, 2018, 03:53:39 PM
Yes, that way it can cook evenly on all sides! :)
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: NickG on May 19, 2018, 06:01:39 PM
Looks great Rich, I will need one of those, essential for maintenance. I bought a 5” Ajax off eBay, just in the process of stripping the boiler out for hydraulic test. Passed the first one and I am putting all fittings on to test again before building back into frames ready for steam test. Can’t wait to get it running!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Craig DeShong on May 20, 2018, 01:43:23 AM
Regarding quartering the wheels; I was encouraged to broach the key way in the drivers, then make a fixture of square steel with a stub axle and key pressed into a center hole.  After centering this fixture in the mill an x offset located the crankpins for one side while a y offset located the crankpins for the other.  This worked great for me.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on May 20, 2018, 09:33:55 AM
Hi

Thanks Chris, Cletus, Kim and Nick  :ThumbsUp:

Craig, have you got a photo or sketch of that set up

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Roger B on May 20, 2018, 09:38:02 AM
Good work on the boiler  :praise2:  :praise2: I like your solution to the reversing lever handle and the support stand  :ThumbsUp:  :ThumbsUp:  :wine1:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on May 20, 2018, 06:33:24 PM
Hi

Thanks Roger  :ThumbsUp:

Back to the reversing lever.

The latch starts life as a bit of 3/8" x 1/8" steel bar. I won't detail every little operation. I hope the following series of photos will suffice but any questions just ask

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f9e77d84d59f51b61ee6?p=10)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on May 20, 2018, 06:50:40 PM
Hi

The latch block starts life as a bit of 5/16" square steel.

Likewise I'll show a series of photos

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/32f429d717a2799f348c_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/32f429d717a2799f348c?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/32f429d717a2799f348c?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/32f429d717a2799f348c_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/32f429d717a2799f348c?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/32f429d717a2799f348c?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/32f429d717a2799f348c_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/32f429d717a2799f348c?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/32f429d717a2799f348c?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/32f429d717a2799f348c_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/32f429d717a2799f348c?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/32f429d717a2799f348c?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/32f429d717a2799f348c_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/32f429d717a2799f348c?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/32f429d717a2799f348c?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/32f429d717a2799f348c_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/32f429d717a2799f348c?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/32f429d717a2799f348c?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/32f429d717a2799f348c_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/32f429d717a2799f348c?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/32f429d717a2799f348c?p=7)

A pin of stainless steel with an M3 thread

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/32f429d717a2799f348c_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/32f429d717a2799f348c?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/32f429d717a2799f348c?p=8)

Then all in the zinc plating kit

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/32f429d717a2799f348c_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/32f429d717a2799f348c?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/32f429d717a2799f348c?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/32f429d717a2799f348c_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/32f429d717a2799f348c?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/32f429d717a2799f348c?p=10)

Finally a bit of video

OR2MbXmGRt8
Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: 10KPete on May 20, 2018, 07:34:49 PM
Very nice, Rich! I love seeing tiny parts.

On your zinc plating set-up: What are you using for electrolyte?

Pete
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on May 20, 2018, 07:41:31 PM
Hi

Thanks Pete  :ThumbsUp:

Re the zinc plating I did a topic here

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,6305.msg128542.html#msg128542

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Craig DeShong on May 25, 2018, 08:13:10 PM
Hi

Thanks Chris, Cletus, Kim and Nick  :ThumbsUp:

Craig, have you got a photo or sketch of that set up

Cheers

Rich

Better late than never I suspect.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on May 28, 2018, 09:22:33 PM
Hi

Thanks for that Craig  :ThumbsUp:

I need to finish the smoke box before I can mount the boiler in the frames.

The smoke box door is available as a casting for about £18.00 but I am going to make one from steel.

Starting with a bit of 1/2" thick steel, mark out, drill and cut roughly to size.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=3)

Turn a mandrel and mount the blank

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=6)

Turn the outer edge to size then with the top slide turned to its maximum profile as much as possible

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=6)

Machine the back

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=7)

So far so good

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=8)


Machine a bit of 1" x 1/4" steel to make the hinge

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=10)

Drill 6 holes in the hinge and tap 2.5mm. Drill 6 corresponding holes in the door

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13_13.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13_14.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=14)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=14)

The original brass hinge bracket I silver soldered into the smoke box front was heated up to melt the silver solder and removed. Anew more sturdier bracket was machined from brass and drilled.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13_15.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=15)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=15)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13_19.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=19)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=19)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13_20.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=20)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=20)

A new pin made from stainless steel

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13_18.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=18)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=18)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13_21.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=21)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=21)

The parts given a zinc plating

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13_22.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=22)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=22)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13_23.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=23)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=23)

The brass bracket silver soldered into the smoke box front and a trial fit

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13_17.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=17)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8ccafb86abb8ad9bdd13?p=17)

Looks ok

Cheers

Rich






Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on May 28, 2018, 09:38:02 PM
Looking excellent.

I need to learn more about zinc plating. How long did it take to plate?
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on May 28, 2018, 10:25:51 PM
Hi

Thanks Carl  :ThumbsUp:

Around 10 minutes for smaller parts I left the door in for about 1/2 an hour

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on May 28, 2018, 11:32:58 PM
Hi

Thanks Carl  :ThumbsUp:

Around 10 minutes for smaller parts I left the door in for about 1/2 an hour

Cheers

Rich
Is the plating just for corrosion protection, or will that be the final appearance of the parts? Are you plating the brass as well?
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on May 29, 2018, 03:32:10 AM
Nice post on the smoke box door. I'm with you - making it rather than buying the casting just seems fun to me.  Not knocking the castings - to each his or her own.  But I like making it myself!  And you did a bang up job here Rich.

Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on May 29, 2018, 06:08:53 PM
Hi

Thanks Chris and Kim  :ThumbsUp:

The zinc plating is a bit of both, corrosion protection and appearance. Some parts like the reversing lever and stand will be left with just the plated finish while other parts will be painted.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on May 31, 2018, 09:40:40 PM
Hi

A bit more work on the smoke box today.  Fairly straight forward but a few things worth mentioning

The dart starts life as a bit of 3/8" stainless steel turned down to 3/16". It then needs a 1/8" square machining on the end. To do this I used my latest acquasition a square collet block

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0667d6c5e177140f99bc_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=1)

Purchased from arceurotrade (usual disclaimer)

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Collets/ER-Collet-Fixtures/Stevensons-ER40-Collet-Blocks

I went for the ER40 which will take a collet for 1". I also purchased a straight adapter

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Adaptors-Sleeves/Morse-Taper-Straight-Sockets---For-Tang-Type-Tooling

Which means I can use all my MT2 collets

After machining the square its back in the lathe to turn down and thread M3

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0667d6c5e177140f99bc_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=2)

Reverse and hold in a 3/16" collet and turn the taper

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0667d6c5e177140f99bc_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=3)

Then back in the collet block to machine the 2 flats

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0667d6c5e177140f99bc_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0667d6c5e177140f99bc_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=5)

The 2 handles are straight forward one being tapped M3 but the other needs a 1/8" square hole.

To do this I machined a 1/8" square onto some 3/8" silver steel, filed some notches on the corners with a triangular file and then heated to red and quenched to harden it

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0667d6c5e177140f99bc_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0667d6c5e177140f99bc_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=7)

In the press to broach the square hole

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0667d6c5e177140f99bc_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0667d6c5e177140f99bc_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0667d6c5e177140f99bc_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0667d6c5e177140f99bc_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=11)

After a clean up a trial fit. The cross bar needs no explanation

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0667d6c5e177140f99bc_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0667d6c5e177140f99bc_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0667d6c5e177140f99bc_13.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0667d6c5e177140f99bc?p=13)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on May 31, 2018, 10:05:52 PM
Nice!  :ThumbsUp: Loved the detailed post.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jim Nic on June 01, 2018, 11:07:08 AM
Rich
I'm not commenting much, but I am following along with much admiration and picking up tips along the way.  Keep it up.
Jim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on June 01, 2018, 01:13:56 PM
Hi

Thanks Carl and Jim  :ThumbsUp:

A bit of encouragement is always welcome especially when things go wrong  :facepalm2:

As for picking up tips remember this is my first loco build so I do make things up as I go along  :ROFL:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: NickG on June 01, 2018, 02:28:23 PM
Smoke box looks great and glad you managed to use plate instead of a casting again. How did you fasten the bracket onto the door? Button head screws or are they rivets?

I got my eBay loco boiler hydraulic tested on Tues with all fittings installed. Eventually passed with flying colours, just a leaky whistle valve which nearly scuppered things for a while! Just a hand pump to fit (only injector and axle pump which I wasn’t keen on) then build back together. There was provision for a hand pump but the maker must have had it on his driving trolley as there was a tee piece from the clack and a spur off under rear buffer beam. I found a sweet pea pump I made many moons ago which is ideal as it will fit under rear of running board!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on June 02, 2018, 10:55:55 AM
Hi Nick

Yes they are stainless steel button heads. They do look a bit like rivets don't they. Actually they cost about the same. I have had several attempts at riveting but it just doesn't look right, I guess its one of those acquired arts.

I have said a couple of times that this engine is being built for me to use and not as a display model so I am not too bothered about using different materials and methods as long as the final part works.

Good news on your boiler :ThumbsUp: :whoohoo:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: NickG on June 02, 2018, 02:17:21 PM
It’s not something I’ve done much of either riveting. I agree, locos that are going to be used are best made with maintenance in mind as they always need tinkering with.

I’ve just taken my axle pump to bits as thought the inlet ball was stuck on its seat. I found two different sized balls - I had another 1/4” SS ball so put that in the out let, blew / sucked through the tube and it blocked. Put the 3/16 ball back on top and it was ok. Then realised the reason the inlet was blocked was also too large a ball, it wasn’t allowing any lift! Bet that must have had the last owner baffled as to why the pump wasn’t working!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on June 02, 2018, 08:32:46 PM
Hi

Continuing with the smoke box the outer is made from 1/16" brass sheet. Initially cut out a couple of pieces with a nibbler

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d0e46755cf4c9733b062_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d0e46755cf4c9733b062_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d0e46755cf4c9733b062_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=3)

Then bring to size in the mill

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d0e46755cf4c9733b062_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=4)

In my home made rollers

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d0e46755cf4c9733b062_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=5)

Check for fit on the front

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d0e46755cf4c9733b062_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=6)


Drill holes around the front edge, using a wood former for support

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d0e46755cf4c9733b062_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=7)

I'm using stainless steel button head screws, my riveting is rubbish, they look like rivets and I can take it apart for maintenance

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d0e46755cf4c9733b062_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d0e46755cf4c9733b062_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d0e46755cf4c9733b062_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=9)

The rear ornamental ring is similarly fitted with button head screws

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d0e46755cf4c9733b062_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d0e46755cf4c9733b062_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=11)

3/8" square brass is drilled to the same as the holes in the frames and tapped right through. The bottom edge of the outer is drilled to same measurements. Stainless bolts that go half way through the tapped brass hold them in place

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d0e46755cf4c9733b062_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d0e46755cf4c9733b062_13.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=13)

Another trial fit

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d0e46755cf4c9733b062_14.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=14)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=14)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d0e46755cf4c9733b062_15.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=15)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d0e46755cf4c9733b062?p=15)

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Steamer5 on June 03, 2018, 06:07:51 AM
Looking good Richie!

Cheers Kerrin
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on June 03, 2018, 05:52:28 PM
I'll say!  Its coming along great.
Really enjoying your build, Rich.  Great pictures and good descriptions.
Thanks!
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on June 05, 2018, 07:10:17 PM
Hi

Thanks Kerrin and Kim  :ThumbsUp:

Apart from all the other bits and pieces left to make I have a tooling job on the to do list. A sheet metal folder which I will need to make the tanks and cab etc. Not just a metal folder but a box and pan folder. I have a few ideas on a fag packet based on available materials.

I am also looking into automatic drain cocks. I need 4 for Conway and my mate Julian needs 4 for his Simplex + we both have our next loco builds waiting in the wings so a production run might be on the cards.

Also I need to work out how to fabricate the chimney base

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d079b89755efe570460b.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d079b89755efe570460b)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d079b89755efe570460b)

At £53.26  :'( its worth having a go

 :thinking: :headscratch:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Steamer5 on June 06, 2018, 12:45:48 AM
Hi Richie,
And that’s a 1994 price! I sent Chris an article on making chimney bases last year, unfortunately due to having to change email providers, followed by a recent hard drive fail I can’t  “see” what issue of Model Engineer it was in. Maybe Chris can point you in the right direction. Failing that I’ll have a hunt thru my back issue & see if I can find it again!

Cheers Kerrin
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on June 06, 2018, 02:23:39 AM
Hi Richie,
And that’s a 1994 price! I sent Chris an article on making chimney bases last year, unfortunately due to having to change email providers, followed by a recent hard drive fail I can’t  “see” what issue of Model Engineer it was in. Maybe Chris can point you in the right direction. Failing that I’ll have a hunt thru my back issue & see if I can find it again!

Cheers Kerrin
Found it Kerrin!
it is in Model Engineer 27, January 2012. If you send me a PM with your email I can send you a copy of the article.
Also, Kozo shows ways to do it in his Building The New Shay (and others, I assume) books, that is where I learned to make that shape. His way involves mostly turning, some filing of the bottom taper to blend it. Those are all from bar stock, no castings.
Chris
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jo on June 06, 2018, 08:24:39 AM

Also I need to work out how to fabricate the chimney base

At £53.26  :'( its worth having a go

What is it with Reeves prices they seem all wrong  :noidea: On Surus' Commander he needed a pair of intermediate Exhaust Elbows and I have ordered the pair from Reeves for £18 at which price I would not bother to try to make them out of bar stock  :ShakeHead: And yet that much simpler casting for your loco costs a fortune  :(

Jo
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on June 06, 2018, 10:21:44 AM
Don't forget the chimney base price is for two castings.

I wonder if the prices reflect the current cost to Reeves, The Commander castings may have been in stock for some time as I can't imagine they sell many so they would be covering their costs. But with Locos being more popular they have a higher turn over of castings so price would reflect what they are currently having to pay for them.

I'm sure Graham's recent batch of castings will have cost more than what he paid back in the days of A.F.

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jo on June 06, 2018, 10:35:45 AM
Neither of the pair (= 2 castings) of elbow castings are in stock and they are cored castings. Each weigh about the same as a simple eccentric casting for the commander and you get four of those for £76  :noidea:

We are still waiting to hear the price of the latest castings from Graham, I did ask for an indication of cost before he went ahead but never heard anything  :paranoia:

Jo
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on June 06, 2018, 08:13:21 PM
Hi

Thanks for all the help guys  :ThumbsUp:

Chris I'll send you a PM  :ThumbsUp:

As for prices yes it is hard to fathom

Smoke box front plate  £21.95
Smoke box door          £18.27
Axle pump casting       £17.01
4 eccentrics                £31.25

Arguably all reasonably priced but then you get to the chimney and it is £53.76 ?????????????

But add those 5 items together and it comes to £142.24, soon mounts up. A complete set of castings comes in at a whopping £700.00.

So it is worth having a go at home fabrication

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on June 06, 2018, 08:28:26 PM
Hi Rich - just sent you the file.
 :cheers:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jo on June 06, 2018, 08:44:53 PM
But add those 5 items together and it comes to £142.24, soon mounts up. A complete set of castings comes in at a whopping £700.00.

I know  :-X Some of the casting sets they don't quote the complete set like on the commander and my Royal Scot (Kings Own)  as they are well into four figures plus some  :toilet_claw:

Jo

P.S. I have the gunmetal cylinder casting set on my Royal Scot which they don't even quote any more  :paranoia:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Steamer5 on June 06, 2018, 10:57:33 PM
Well done Chris!
Thanks for passing it on.

Cheers Kerrin
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on June 07, 2018, 08:16:08 PM
Hi

I have just read the article, some interesting ideas there. It looks like a large milling machine he has, I doubt mine could cope with such large cutters. But coupled with a few ideas I have I think  I might be able to do it.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on June 14, 2018, 08:40:39 PM
Hi

I have had a bit of a break from loco building to build a bit of kit that I need for loco building :shrug:

Its a sheet metal folder. I looked at the commercially available ones but mostly they specify a maximum material thickness of 1mm. I have some 1/16" brass sheet which is 1.6mm so I decided to build my own which will hopefully handle 2mm. The internet provided lots of ideas the best of which I think is this type. I made it from 2 pieces of 4" x 4" angle iron 18" long. A trial on the 1/16" brass was a success proving very easy to bend.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/ec15470eceb1d5784c9e.jpg) (https://www.use.com/ec15470eceb1d5784c9e)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/ec15470eceb1d5784c9e)

I didn't take too many photos but if anyone would like some more info just shout up

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Admiral_dk on June 14, 2018, 09:47:48 PM
That looks like a mighty fine and simple bender Rick and I for one would like a bit more info if you please.

The loco is progressing fine too.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on June 17, 2018, 09:28:39 AM
Hi

Ok heres a few details of the folder.

2 x 18" lengths of 100mm x 100mm x 10mm angle iron. Its not precise stuff and varies along its length but thats of no matter what did concern me was there is quite a radius along the outer corner which had I left it would have produced not such a sharp bend so I skimmed a bit off just one face of each piece. It took a bit of doing. I originally tried to do it with a fly cutter but the surface of the angle iron is quite hard and was too much for the milling machine so I resorted to a 16mm cutter

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c66f15c3508bec277fb1_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=1)

The pivot point must be centred exactly on the point where the two angle irons meet. I used some 5/8" round steel bar, in the lathe and centre drilled as a guide.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c66f15c3508bec277fb1_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=2)

3 Pieces of 8mm thick steel bar were prepared for each side (6 in total). The hole in the 2 inner pieces is slightly under  5/8" so that the 5/8" steel bar was a good tight press fit. These 2 pieces were then welded to the 100 x 100 angle iron. 2 pieces each side drilled 5/8" are bolted to pices of angle iron welded to the other 100 x 100 to form the hinge

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c66f15c3508bec277fb1_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c66f15c3508bec277fb1_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=9)

I must say at this point my welding is awful  :embarassed: I was given an old mig welder that sort of works ok when it feels like it but its good enough for rough jobs

2 pieces of square steel tube are welded to the underside of the moveable jaw for the operating handles to fit into. 2 furthe pieces of angle iron are welded to the rear hinge bar. These have 12mm holes drilled in them to accept 12mm bolts for the gantry. The fixed jaw is drilled and tapped 8mm in four places and has 4 x 8mm studs fitted which pass through holes drilled in my bench for mounting it solidly. The gantry is a length of heavy steel square tube drilled 12mm at each end and sits on 2 steel tubes slipped over the mounting bolts. The gantry is drilled along its length 10mm and has nuts welded on underneath. A set of T bar bolts made from 10mm studding.

The clamping bar is 50mm x 50mm x 6mm angle iron. In the mill mounted across two angle blocks it has its bottom faces machined to remove the radius and give a sharper fold

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c66f15c3508bec277fb1_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c66f15c3508bec277fb1_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c66f15c3508bec277fb1_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=8)

6 blocks of 25mm x 25mm steel mached to sit on top of the angle iron 94 shown)

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c66f15c3508bec277fb1_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c66f15c3508bec277fb1_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c66f15c3508bec277fb1_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c66f15c3508bec277fb1_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=8)

Another piece of the 50mm x 50mm angle is also machined the same. To form boxes pieces of this one will be cut off to the required length.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c66f15c3508bec277fb1_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c66f15c3508bec277fb1_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c66f15c3508bec277fb1_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c66f15c3508bec277fb1_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c66f15c3508bec277fb1_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=11)

Finally a coat of green paint

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c66f15c3508bec277fb1_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c66f15c3508bec277fb1_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/c66f15c3508bec277fb1_13.jpg) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/c66f15c3508bec277fb1?p=13)

Its a bit on the heavy side but it works well

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on June 20, 2018, 09:45:46 PM
Hi

Back on page 25 I mentioned automatic drain cocks. After a bit of doodling  :atcomputer: this is the design I came up with

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/32cd871c4be23065a637_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/32cd871c4be23065a637?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/32cd871c4be23065a637?p=9)

I need 4 for Conway plus there is a Juliet and a Chub and a Simplex waiting in the wings and when I mentioned it to my mate Julian he said while you are at it you might as well make a dozen for me  :facepalm:

So a bit of thought went into a production run. First up was the body. I have several drill chucks for the lathe so one was set up with a 3/16" drill and another has a 7/32 x 40 tap. Drill 3/16" to a depth of 7/8" and then tap 7/32" x 40. I set up a depth stop on the topslide so I could part off the 1" length, 24 of them  :ShakeHead:

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/32cd871c4be23065a637_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/32cd871c4be23065a637?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/32cd871c4be23065a637?p=1)


Followed by 24 short lengths of 3/16" brass rod drilled through 1/6" and threaded 3/16" x 40

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/32cd871c4be23065a637_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/32cd871c4be23065a637?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/32cd871c4be23065a637?p=2)

Each brass body was set up in the mill using the edge of the vise as a datum and cross drilled and tapped 3/16" x 40. Sorry no photo of this op. Each body has one of the 3/16" x 40 pieces screwed in a couple of threads and silver soldered.

Some 7/32" brass rod is threaded 7/32" x 40 and 24 short pieces cut off. 24 Brass nuts tapped 7/32" x 40 made. Each nut has a piece screwed in about half way and silver soldered

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/32cd871c4be23065a637_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/32cd871c4be23065a637?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/32cd871c4be23065a637?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/32cd871c4be23065a637_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/32cd871c4be23065a637?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/32cd871c4be23065a637?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/32cd871c4be23065a637_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/32cd871c4be23065a637?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/32cd871c4be23065a637?p=6)

Drill and tap a bit of scrap steel 7/32" x 40. Screw in the caps and face, then drill 1/16"

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/32cd871c4be23065a637_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/32cd871c4be23065a637?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/32cd871c4be23065a637?p=5)

The caps differ from the drawing slightly. As an after thought we decided to have a bit of thread on the outside to attach a short length of copper pipe to if desired.

A bit of red paint

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/32cd871c4be23065a637_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/32cd871c4be23065a637?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/32cd871c4be23065a637?p=8)

A 1/8" stainless steel ball fitted into each one and tested by pushing a drinking straw onto the thread and blowing. Amazingly the ball shuts the valve off.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/32cd871c4be23065a637_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/32cd871c4be23065a637?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/32cd871c4be23065a637?p=7)


Cheers

Rich


 
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on June 20, 2018, 10:02:10 PM
Pretty neat.

I don't quite understand how such a thing works. Would you mind?

Also, I'm wondering why you made the nut/rods in two pieces instead of one.
Is it because you'd have to hold onto a threaded end in order to do the other?
Would it have been possible to make a jig with a threaded hole to hold one threaded end while doing the other?

Thanks.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Admiral_dk on June 20, 2018, 10:06:08 PM
Thank you very much Rich for showing how you made your sheet brake and the rest of the thread too  :praise2:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on June 21, 2018, 01:26:16 PM
Hi

No problem Admiral_dk :ThumbsUp:

Carl, the drawing on page 26 has a fairly good explanation as to how they work.

Yes I could have made all the caps as one piece. But that would mean more operations and tool changes. Turn down and screw cut some hex brass. Part off. Fit mandrel to chuck. Screw part in. Turn down and screw cut. Drill through.

Much easier to drill and tap some hex and part off 24 nuts. Thread some rod and part off 24 pieces. Silver solder together.
Screw into mandrel and drill through.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on June 24, 2018, 12:16:23 PM
Hi

Back to the chimney. I figured out a way to do it with the tools I have and available materials.

Starting with some steel in the lathe turn the boss to size

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=1)

Followed by some drilling then boring

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=2)

Now I needed to create the bell mouth. The 2 red lines on the drawing show the 2 cuts I made by swivelling the top slide over

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_28.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=28)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=28)

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=3)

Followed by some work with course then medium emery cloth

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=4)

Reverse in the chuck and part off

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=5)

Then a combination of cutters to create the profile and bore out for the chimney tube

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=8)

The chimney tube is a bit of steel tube

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=9)

The saddle part starts life as a bit of 3/16" thick steel and a cardboard template

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=11)

Drill 2 6mm holes in the steel plate and drill and tap 2 M6 holes in a bit of steel tube thats the same size as the smoke box

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_13.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=13)

Then attack it with the oxy propane torch and a hammer

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_14.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=14)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=14)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_15.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=15)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=15)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_16.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=16)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=16)

Set up in the mill and drill and bore the hole

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_17.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=17)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=17)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_18.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=18)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=18)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_19.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=19)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=19)

Flatten off a bit

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_20.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=20)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=20)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_21.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=21)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=21)

Remove the waste and file to shape gives us this

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_22.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=22)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=22)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_23.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=23)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=23)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_24.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=24)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=24)

In the brazing hearth. I used sif bronze for this as it has better fill capabilities

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_25.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=25)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=25)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_26.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=26)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=26)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf_27.jpg) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=27)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/bdb5e2f9d1e9377b75bf?p=27)

A scrap of wood with an M8 coach bolt and a large washer to hold it for filing and fettling

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a6c648a7d5523b9a63d1_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a6c648a7d5523b9a63d1?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a6c648a7d5523b9a63d1?p=1)

Ladies and gentlemen I think we have a chimney base  :whoohoo:

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a6c648a7d5523b9a63d1_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a6c648a7d5523b9a63d1?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a6c648a7d5523b9a63d1?p=2)


Cheers

Rich






Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jo on June 24, 2018, 01:37:33 PM
It looks good and you have saved £53 as well  :ThumbsUp:

Jo
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on June 24, 2018, 02:16:49 PM
Wow! Nice job!  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jakdaw43 on June 25, 2018, 04:28:50 PM
Hi Rich,
Having built three Hunslets amongst a great deal else over the past 60 years, I've done a bit, made a lot of mistakes, but hopefully learned a trick or two on the way.
I offer my help with any 'problem' that you approach during building your 'Conway'...a problem shared is a problem solved they say.
All the best,
Stuart
Newcastle-u-Lyme.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Tennessee Whiskey on June 25, 2018, 07:49:32 PM
Great fab work Rich. I suspect it will be painted, but, that sil-bronze fillet looks great against the polished metal  :ThumbsUp:

Cletus
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on June 25, 2018, 08:02:31 PM
It will be interesting to see how the Sifbronze holds out in that position. You are not allowed to use it on coal fired boilers as something in the coal fumes attacks it and it will get a lot of smoke up the chimney, at least it is not under pressure.

J
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jo on June 25, 2018, 08:11:46 PM
Sifbronze is basically a brass with a little tin added to improve the flow characteristics i.e. it has no silver. As we know in certain circumstances the very hot boiler water can remove the zinc (dezincification) and cause dangerous porous/weak joints. The lack of silver means it is difficult to attain an even heating to promote the desirable capillary flow, which again is not good if it formed part of a pressure vessel  :ShakeHead:

That joint looks ok for what you are using it for Rich  :ThumbsUp:

Jo

P.S. Sifbronze No 1 conforms to BS 1845 CZ6: Composition 57 -61% Copper 0.25 - 1.0% Tin balance Zinc.
Sifbronze No2 conformed to BS 1845 CZ8: Composition 46 - 50% Copper 9-11% Nickel balance zinc
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on June 25, 2018, 08:15:47 PM
It is not the water that affects it Jo, That is why I said it can't be used for coal fired boilers, think it is the sulphur that does the damage.

From Keith at CuP Alloys

"ON NO ACCOUNT USE ANY PHOSPHORUS BEARING BRAZING ALLOY ON A COAL FIRED BOILER. THE SULPHUR IN THE FUMES WILL GO THROUGH THE JOINT LIKE A HOT KNIFE THROUGH BUTTER.

Keith"
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jo on June 25, 2018, 09:06:05 PM
 :headscratch: Sifbronze does not contain PHOSPHORUS

Jo
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: NickG on June 25, 2018, 09:51:48 PM
A lot of boiler designs back in the day specified sif bronze joints, presumably to avoid melting when soldering later ones with lower melting point material. These boilers by the likes of lbsc must surely have been made and steamed by a lot of people?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Tennessee Whiskey on June 25, 2018, 09:57:44 PM
Good Lord, alls I was trying to say was the contrast looked nice.  Metallurgy aside.

Cletus
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on June 26, 2018, 07:04:43 AM
Great fab work Rich. I suspect it will be painted, but, that sil-bronze fillet looks great against the polished metal  :ThumbsUp:

Cletus

I blame it on Eric saying "Sil Bronze" and got me confused with Silphos
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on June 26, 2018, 07:57:45 PM
Hi

Thanks Jo, Carl, jakdaw43, cletus, Jason, Nick  :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:

Without wishing to start a big debate I am well aware that bronze/brazing is not allowed on boilers but it doesn't hurt to raise the subject every now and then, especially if there are any new comers watching. ONLY SILVER SOLDER ON BOILERS AND ONLY BRONZE/GUNMETAL FITTINGS.

But this is not actually on the boiler and has no pressure in it. Also if you look closely at the part you will see that the smoke/steam goe's straight through the steel and does not come into contact with the brazing which is just a filler externally.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 01, 2018, 12:06:50 PM
Hi

The smokebox floor is a bit of a challenge. It must be as air tight (or should that be steam/smoke tight) as possible. I have the 3/8" square brass on the outside for mounting to the frames already drilled and tapped so I decided to use that instead of trying to silver solder or rivet brass angle to the inside. It might be helpful to have the smoke box floor removeable anyway.

Firstly prepare some 5/16" brass square to bolt on the inside. 5/16" not 3/8" so that the 1/16" floor sits level with the outside 3/8".

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1034660b9f09ed4340b0_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1034660b9f09ed4340b0_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1034660b9f09ed4340b0_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1034660b9f09ed4340b0_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=4)

Square up a piece of 1/16" brass plate

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1034660b9f09ed4340b0_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=5)

File and fettle to achieve a good fit

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1034660b9f09ed4340b0_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1034660b9f09ed4340b0_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=7)

Hold a piece of card on the inside and mark out the shape

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1034660b9f09ed4340b0_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1034660b9f09ed4340b0_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=9)

Use the template to mark out some 1/16" brass sheet leaving a little extra to fold over

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1034660b9f09ed4340b0_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=10)

Cut out, fold and fit to the floor plate. I used a couple of 2mm stainless screws and nuts

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1034660b9f09ed4340b0_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1034660b9f09ed4340b0_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=12)

Silver solder the parts together with an extra thickening piece at the foundation ring

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1034660b9f09ed4340b0_13.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1034660b9f09ed4340b0_14.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=14)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=14)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1034660b9f09ed4340b0_15.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=15)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=15)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1034660b9f09ed4340b0_16.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=16)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=16)

Note the chimney base has been fitted to the smokebox with 10 x M3 button head stainless steel screws

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1034660b9f09ed4340b0_17.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=17)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=17)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1034660b9f09ed4340b0_18.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=18)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=18)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1034660b9f09ed4340b0_19.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=19)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1034660b9f09ed4340b0?p=19)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on July 01, 2018, 05:01:58 PM
Looking good, Rich!
Great the work on the smoke box.
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Tennessee Whiskey on July 02, 2018, 01:28:08 AM
 :cheers: Rich; that last photo shows just how far it’s come. Beautiful work  :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:. Really looking to be a proper loco  :DrinkPint:

Cletus
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jakdaw43 on July 02, 2018, 07:27:42 AM
Great work Rich...real craftsmanship on display. 
Stuart
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 08, 2018, 10:32:02 AM
Hi

Thanks Kim, Cletus and Stuart  :ThumbsUp:

Continuing with the boiler/smokebox fittings

We need a snifting valve  :headscratch:  Oh yes we do  :thinking:

Heres an explanation clipped from wikipedia

When the driver shuts off the steam to the cylinders of a steam locomotive while it is in motion, the moving pistons could create a partial vacuum in the cylinders. This would give rise to two problems. Firstly, the pumping action would absorb energy and prevent the engine from coasting freely. Secondly, when the exhaust valve opened, soot and cinders from the smokebox could be sucked down the exhaust pipe and into the valve chest or cylinder, causing damage. (The exhaust is open to the smokebox because in normal running the exhaust steam is sent through the blastpipe to draw the fire and eject the combustion products from the chimney.) These problems are avoided by using snifting valves to allow air to be drawn into the cylinder. On railways which did not use snifting valves, drivers were instructed to keep the regulator slightly open when coasting to avoid the creation of a vacuum.

Ok.

Actually I had to make 2 because my mate Julian needs one for his Simplex so he said while you are at it make me one ::)

This is it

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/292d3ee298bb2e2e5d9a_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/292d3ee298bb2e2e5d9a?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/292d3ee298bb2e2e5d9a?p=8)

I think I have mentioned before I don't much like making this miniature stuff but it has to be done. Careful measurement and  accurate machining is the order of the day. What follows is a series of photos which will hopefully show the procedure I adopted without me going into a blow by blow account

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/292d3ee298bb2e2e5d9a_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/292d3ee298bb2e2e5d9a?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/292d3ee298bb2e2e5d9a?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/292d3ee298bb2e2e5d9a_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/292d3ee298bb2e2e5d9a?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/292d3ee298bb2e2e5d9a?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/292d3ee298bb2e2e5d9a_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/292d3ee298bb2e2e5d9a?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/292d3ee298bb2e2e5d9a?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/292d3ee298bb2e2e5d9a_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/292d3ee298bb2e2e5d9a?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/292d3ee298bb2e2e5d9a?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/292d3ee298bb2e2e5d9a_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/292d3ee298bb2e2e5d9a?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/292d3ee298bb2e2e5d9a?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/292d3ee298bb2e2e5d9a_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/292d3ee298bb2e2e5d9a?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/292d3ee298bb2e2e5d9a?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/292d3ee298bb2e2e5d9a_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/292d3ee298bb2e2e5d9a?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/292d3ee298bb2e2e5d9a?p=7)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: NickG on July 08, 2018, 08:06:04 PM
Somebody advised me that the automatic drain cocks will act like sniffing valves. The vacuum probably isn’t enough to seat the balls so will draw in fresh air.

I am hoping so as mine doesn’t have a snifting valve - will soon find out I guess, I might have to make one too!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: scc on July 08, 2018, 08:15:54 PM
I like it a lot :popcorn:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 08, 2018, 09:16:30 PM
Hi

Thanks Nick and SCC :ThumbsUp:

We also need a blast nozzle and blower  ::)

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_31.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=31)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=31)

This took a bit of studying to figure out how it works and how to make it so I'll give a little more detail.

Starting with a bit of phospher bronze bar, face and machine a 1/8" deep pocket and part off and finish to 7/16" as per the plan

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=1)

Looking at the part it just didn't look right  :thinking:. After some more studying of the plans it finally dawned on me that there is an error on the drawing. Good old Martin errors has struck again  :cussing: :Mad:

The dimension showing the total height of 11/16" is wrong. It should be 13/16".

Start again and make the part the correct size

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=2)

Using the same bar make the cap

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=5)

Silver solder the two parts together

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=7)

This makes an internal circular chamber

To cut the internal taper and tapping size hole for the 1/2" x 32 tpi I made a cutter. Starting with some silver steel turn the taper, the tap size and the 3/16" spigot to 1/8" long

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=8)

Transfer to the mill and machine away exactly half the diameter

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=11)

Heat to cherry red and quench in clean water. I didn't bother to temper it.

The part is mounted in the lathe and drilled through 3/16" followed by the custom made cutter

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_13.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_15.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=15)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=15)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_16.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=16)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=16)

The cutter is advanced slowly until the 3/16" spigot just protrudes and is flush with the face of the part

Followed by the 1/2" x 32 tap

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_17.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=17)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=17)

Now comes the 4 little jets. And they are small. Too small for my eyes  :hellno:

I have one of these little CO baby lathes. Too be honest they are in my opinion not that good for general work but where they do score points is the 3800 rpm they are capable of. So I dragged it out and donned some magnifying glasses.

The jets are made from some 5/32" brass hex. Turn down and thread. I have used M3. Drill the larger hole. Cut off and make another 3.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_18.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=18)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=18)

Chuck a bit of scrap brass, face and drill and tap M3. Each jet can be screwed in and with a hand ground cutter turned to profile.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_20.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=20)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=20)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_21.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=21)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=21)

With the tiniest of drills, which I could barely see, drill the jets

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_22.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=22)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=22)

The body must be drilled and tapped M3 at an angle of 2°. I have a rotary table that tilts

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_23.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=23)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=23)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_24.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=24)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=24)

Back in the mill to drill and tap 1/4" x 40 and silver solder in a bit of threaded brass that is centre drilled to form the cone

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_25.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=25)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=25)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_26.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=26)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=26)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_27.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=27)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=27)

A few shots of the finished part

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_28.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=28)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=28)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_29.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=29)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=29)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/1ea343138df7bc0f3273_30.jpg) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=30)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/1ea343138df7bc0f3273?p=30)

Cheers

Rich






Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on July 09, 2018, 12:49:46 AM
Wow!  That's a lot of little work there!
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 11, 2018, 10:03:52 PM
Hi

Thanks Kim  :ThumbsUp:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 15, 2018, 08:39:17 AM
Hi

Next is the exhaust T and pipes

Starting with a block of bronze drill and tap 1/2" x 32

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d9674c9913c9998d7248_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d9674c9913c9998d7248_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d9674c9913c9998d7248_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=3)

Mark the sides and set at an angle of 30°

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d9674c9913c9998d7248_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d9674c9913c9998d7248_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=5)

Drill with a 5/16" slot cutter

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d9674c9913c9998d7248_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d9674c9913c9998d7248_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d9674c9913c9998d7248_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d9674c9913c9998d7248_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=9)

Drill and tap M3

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d9674c9913c9998d7248_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d9674c9913c9998d7248_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d9674c9913c9998d7248_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=12)

Make the flanges

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d9674c9913c9998d7248_13.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d9674c9913c9998d7248_14.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=14)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d9674c9913c9998d7248?p=14)

There are a couple of photos to follow when I get them uploaded. Use.com is off line at the moment

Cheers

Rich


Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: scc on July 15, 2018, 09:42:38 AM
Nice work :cheers:    Terry
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 15, 2018, 04:55:49 PM
Hi

Thanks Terry  :ThumbsUp:

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/5fe121ffc549d7d36986_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/5fe121ffc549d7d36986?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/5fe121ffc549d7d36986?p=1)

A couple of lengths of 3/8" brass tube threaded 3/8" x 40. Slightly over long at the moment. When I get the cylinders mounted I will be able to get the correct length and silver solder them to the flanges

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/5fe121ffc549d7d36986_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/5fe121ffc549d7d36986?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/5fe121ffc549d7d36986?p=2)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 21, 2018, 07:35:42 PM
Hi

Some more steam fittings work and a question for you my learned friends  :thinking:

First of all the steam T. Made from a block of bronze

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13?p=2)

Followed by a pair of flanges to connect it to the valve chest covers. I'm waiting for some 5/16" brass tube to arrive

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13?p=3)

Heres the question. You will see on the drawing an oil check valve. I can see that it would be necessary if a mechanical lubricator were fitted but my intention is to fit a displacement lubricator. Am I right in assuming that I won't need the check valve :headscratch: :thinking: :noidea:

When I made the cylinders the lug for the exhaust steam outlet was omitted to save wasting a lot of material. 2 more blocks of bronze have been machined to make the outlet connections

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13?p=8)

Finally today I have made a start on the wet header

Turn to size, drill and tap 5/16" x 32, screw cut 1/2" x 32

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13?p=10)

Cheers

Rich

Left as one piece at the moment. I am going to drill and tap the 3 holes then seperate the 2 pieces

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/204fb023c5dcb5e0ee13?p=11)


Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on July 22, 2018, 05:52:37 AM
Hi Rich,
Some nice looking little brass parts you've made there!

Heres the question. You will see on the drawing an oil check valve. I can see that it would be necessary if a mechanical lubricator were fitted but my intention is to fit a displacement lubricator. Am I right in assuming that I won't need the check valve :headscratch: :thinking: :noidea:
Since no actual knowledgeable people have answered your question, here's my less than knowledgeable thoughts...

I think that the check valve is not only not needed, it would prevent the displacement lubricator from working if it were there.  A displacement lubricator works by having the steam come into the unit and condense, raising the level of the oil (since the oil is lighter than water) and then being pushed back out the same passageway the steam came in to drip into the steam line as it goes into the cylinders.

And a check valve would prevent movement in one direction or the other.  You need fluids moving both ways for the displacement lubricator to work.

If I'm wrong, I'm sure someone will correct me, but that's what I think based on my limited knowledge.

Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on July 22, 2018, 07:20:31 AM
No need on a displacement lub, it is all under steam pressure.

A mech lub does not have  asealed top so steam from the valve chest would blow back up the pipe and cover you in oily steam. Infact a lot of mech lubricators are best with two NR valves, one in th eoutlet and another where the tube joins the valve chest
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 23, 2018, 07:47:08 PM
Hi

Thanks Kim and Jason  :ThumbsUp: :ThumbsUp:

I figured that would be the case but wasn't 100% certain

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 27, 2018, 11:09:57 AM
Hi

Question time again  :help:

I'm still making boiler fittings, I'll post the progress later. I am now onto the super heater. There is very little info in the article, little more than a drawing

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8f0c44f21c7bcc03e11e_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8f0c44f21c7bcc03e11e?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8f0c44f21c7bcc03e11e?p=2)

This is the drawing that Julias did

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8f0c44f21c7bcc03e11e_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8f0c44f21c7bcc03e11e?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8f0c44f21c7bcc03e11e?p=1)

You will see on the first drawing the length of 16 3/4". A tape measure held inside the firebox

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8f0c44f21c7bcc03e11e_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8f0c44f21c7bcc03e11e?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8f0c44f21c7bcc03e11e?p=3)

Which clearly sticks out the front way too much

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8f0c44f21c7bcc03e11e_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8f0c44f21c7bcc03e11e?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8f0c44f21c7bcc03e11e?p=4)

Holding the tape measure much shorter at the front, which is about where the end should be

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8f0c44f21c7bcc03e11e_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8f0c44f21c7bcc03e11e?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8f0c44f21c7bcc03e11e?p=5)

Results in the end sticking right out into the firebox

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8f0c44f21c7bcc03e11e_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8f0c44f21c7bcc03e11e?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8f0c44f21c7bcc03e11e?p=6)

This is all new to me  :headscratch: so I would just like to check that is correct, ie the super heater does stick out into the firebox and there is not another Martin Evans error on the plans

Cheers

Rich




Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 27, 2018, 11:11:35 AM
Hi

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm

It seems all my images from Use.com have disappeared.

I'll look into it

Sorry

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 27, 2018, 11:23:53 AM
Hi

I think it might be something to do with Google chrome

Effective July 2018, Google's Chrome browser will mark non-HTTPS sites as 'not secure' - Search Engine Land
https://searchengineland.com/effective-july-2018-googles-chrome-browser-will-mark-non-https-sites-as-not-secure-291623

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 27, 2018, 11:37:47 PM
Hi

All the images seem to be back again :headscratch:

So back to the super heater question :help:

Cheeers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: 10KPete on July 28, 2018, 01:26:13 AM
I believe that the pointy end of the super heater goes in from the smoke box and protrudes into the fire box a fair distance...

You show your tape measure going the other way.

Pete
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Gary Brooke on July 28, 2018, 04:32:35 AM
As far as I understand it they stick into the firebox a fairway. Nice engine by the way.
Rgds Gary
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Steamer5 on July 28, 2018, 06:32:35 AM
Hi Rich,
 Pete’s got it right. The superheater goes into the firebox. Supposedly you get more heat, superheaters etc. You wouldn’t try this with copper as you would likely melt it when you have the regulator closed. My copper ones were in flue, done lots of work & got eroded thru, buggers up a nice days steaming!
We had a discussion here awhile back re superheating, my thoughts being that we get drier steam hence more volume, better work etc, but as to superheating we don’t dry the steam prior to superheating as in full size practice hence little or no superheating as a result. You do get better performance.

Cheers Kerrin
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 28, 2018, 09:34:50 AM
Hi

Thanks Pete, Gary and Kerrin

Here's the article

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/974bdc6ed156223b3940.jpg) (https://www.use.com/974bdc6ed156223b3940)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/974bdc6ed156223b3940)

One more question please. On the plans the pointy end as Pete put it  :Lol: says it should be brazed while the joint to the copper pipe should be silver soldered but in the text he says to braze the joint.  :headscratch:

Is silver solder ok or should it be brazed. I always understood brazing to be done with brass or what is sometimes called
sif bronze. A bit confusing

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on July 28, 2018, 01:47:14 PM
Silver soldering is a form of brazing, sometimes it is called silver brazing, just uses a different filler rod than what most think of in brazing.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Steamer5 on July 28, 2018, 06:13:44 PM
Hi Rich,
 Had mine TIG'd into the block, plus the plug of the cross drilled hole. Mate did a lovely job!

Wish I had thought of , seen an article on, using a copper sleeve to join to copper tube. Getting the stainless to line up & silver soldered into the brass header fitting was a pain. Second header fitting had to be made as the first one got a bit hot!

Cheers Kerrin
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: 10KPete on July 28, 2018, 06:49:40 PM


.....the pointy end as Pete put it  :Lol: says it .....

Cheers

Rich

Well, hey, I don't know what it's called... :shrug: :shrug:

 :lolb: :lolb:

Pete
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 29, 2018, 08:21:45 AM
Hi

Thanks Kerrin, Gary and Pete  :ThumbsUp:

Back to the wet header the part is set up in the rotary table

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f?p=1)

And has 3 holes drilled

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f?p=2)

The front part is now parted off. Sorry no photo.

While the rotary table is in the same position a bit of scrap steel has the same 3 holes drilled

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f?p=3)

The body is cross drilled and has the 3 holes opened out

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f?p=4)

And the front part tapped

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f?p=5)

A trial assembly

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f?p=7)

Make up the threaded boss

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f?p=9)

Loctite is used to fix in 3 pins to finish the tool for tightening the wet head body into the boiler

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/fbe0a755d07242bfa96f?p=10)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 29, 2018, 04:12:22 PM
Hi

The super heater pointy end  :ROFL: starts life as a bit of stainless round bar in the mill

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3583685b54230a891c3c_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3583685b54230a891c3c?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3583685b54230a891c3c?p=1)

Using the DRO centre drill then drill

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3583685b54230a891c3c_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3583685b54230a891c3c?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3583685b54230a891c3c?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3583685b54230a891c3c_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3583685b54230a891c3c?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3583685b54230a891c3c?p=3)

Then counter bore

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3583685b54230a891c3c_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3583685b54230a891c3c?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3583685b54230a891c3c?p=4)

Cross drill and tap. The cross drill is over size for tapping size but enough thread is cut to hold the blanking plug

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3583685b54230a891c3c_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3583685b54230a891c3c?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3583685b54230a891c3c?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3583685b54230a891c3c_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3583685b54230a891c3c?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3583685b54230a891c3c?p=6)

Machine away the waste

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3583685b54230a891c3c_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3583685b54230a891c3c?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3583685b54230a891c3c?p=7)

Thread a bit of stainless steel rod and make a plug

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3583685b54230a891c3c_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3583685b54230a891c3c?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3583685b54230a891c3c?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3583685b54230a891c3c_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3583685b54230a891c3c?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3583685b54230a891c3c?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3583685b54230a891c3c_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3583685b54230a891c3c?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3583685b54230a891c3c?p=10)


Cheers

Rich



Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 30, 2018, 07:33:19 PM
Hi

I'm getting closer to the point where bits have to fitted and fettled but before that happens the frames need to be finished and painted.

I can't remember now who it was many many pages back who mentioned that the boiler blow down valves don't line up

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/9fdb290c83140c78c833_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/9fdb290c83140c78c833?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/9fdb290c83140c78c833?p=1)

So thats one job.

Spot the cylinder mounting holes

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/9fdb290c83140c78c833_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/9fdb290c83140c78c833?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/9fdb290c83140c78c833?p=2)

Drill the holes

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/9fdb290c83140c78c833_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/9fdb290c83140c78c833?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/9fdb290c83140c78c833?p=4)

Machine clearance for the blow down valves

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/9fdb290c83140c78c833_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/9fdb290c83140c78c833?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/9fdb290c83140c78c833?p=3)

Drill a couple of holes for some little brackets that hold the boiler down

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/9fdb290c83140c78c833_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/9fdb290c83140c78c833?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/9fdb290c83140c78c833?p=5)

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on July 30, 2018, 08:12:22 PM
Hi

I also need to make and fit the brake gear to make sure everthing misses each other. Starting with the 4 brake hangers. I drilled the 3 holes in each one using the DRO. Then bolted together and mounted on a sacrificial ally table the ends are machined. They fit inside the frames and for the most part can't be seen so I am not going to bother with the cosmetic shaping.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4cb9ea5cd78e30adb8db_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4cb9ea5cd78e30adb8db?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4cb9ea5cd78e30adb8db?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4cb9ea5cd78e30adb8db_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4cb9ea5cd78e30adb8db?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4cb9ea5cd78e30adb8db?p=2)

The brake hanger pins I have made from stainless steel and used M4 for the threads as I have some stainless steel M4 nyloc nuts. Similarly i have not bothered to shape them as they can't be seen

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4cb9ea5cd78e30adb8db_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4cb9ea5cd78e30adb8db?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4cb9ea5cd78e30adb8db?p=3)

The brake shoes next. I drew out the size of the ring I would need

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4cb9ea5cd78e30adb8db_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4cb9ea5cd78e30adb8db?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4cb9ea5cd78e30adb8db?p=4)

Then a rare flash of inspiration, I remembered I had some large washers, just got to find them :headscratch: :old:

Ah Haaaaa

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4cb9ea5cd78e30adb8db_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4cb9ea5cd78e30adb8db?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4cb9ea5cd78e30adb8db?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4cb9ea5cd78e30adb8db_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4cb9ea5cd78e30adb8db?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4cb9ea5cd78e30adb8db?p=6)

After a bit of machining

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4cb9ea5cd78e30adb8db_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4cb9ea5cd78e30adb8db?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4cb9ea5cd78e30adb8db?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/4cb9ea5cd78e30adb8db_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/4cb9ea5cd78e30adb8db?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/4cb9ea5cd78e30adb8db?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/971893e27c2c030d2a6e_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/971893e27c2c030d2a6e?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/971893e27c2c030d2a6e?p=1)

Print out some exact size brake shoes and stick on

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/971893e27c2c030d2a6e_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/971893e27c2c030d2a6e?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/971893e27c2c030d2a6e?p=2)

Cheers

Rich




Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Admiral_dk on July 30, 2018, 09:17:44 PM
Brilliant use of the spacer  :ThumbsUp: and Drats on the boiler blow down valves alignment  :censored: - but you solved it too  :cheers:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on July 30, 2018, 10:20:32 PM
Still  :popcorn: and enjoying.
Very nice work and I enjoy the detail.

I have to admit...I also look to see if there's a shot out your window. Woohoo! Caught a sight of your bench.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on July 31, 2018, 05:22:53 AM
You're moving right along, Rich.
Enjoying the show! (pass the popcorn, Zee!) :popcorn:
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on August 03, 2018, 10:00:15 AM
Hi

Thanks Admiral, Carl and Kim  :ThumbsUp:

I hope to get a little workshop time today after the chores are done  ::)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on August 06, 2018, 09:11:50 PM
Hi

The ring has a groove cut in with a parting tool. My parting tool is 2mm wide

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/69677e8b26b225cbec60_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=1)

Drill the holes

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/69677e8b26b225cbec60_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=2)

I found the easiest way to hold the ring was to clamp a lump of scrap wood in the bandsaw vise and use large screws to hold it rigid

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/69677e8b26b225cbec60_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/69677e8b26b225cbec60_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=4)

Which gave me this

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/69677e8b26b225cbec60_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=5)

In the mill and machine the 1/8" slot

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/69677e8b26b225cbec60_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/69677e8b26b225cbec60_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=7)

Followed by machining the profile

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/69677e8b26b225cbec60_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/69677e8b26b225cbec60_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=9)

You may have noticed that the plans call for 4 brake blocks. The ring yielded 8. Its unlikely that I will wear out a set of brake blocks and need to fit the 4 spares so they will go into stock and maybe fit a future loco.

Next up is the brake shaft. Not much to explain here, only that I have used stainless steel for the shaft

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/69677e8b26b225cbec60_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=10)

The brake column next. Start by machining a bit of 7/8" brass and thread 3/8" x 26tpi

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/69677e8b26b225cbec60_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=11)

Drilling through by starting with a centre drill then a short drill followed by a long drill. I only have a 3/16" long drill but the shaft fits through nicely

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/69677e8b26b225cbec60_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=12)


Drill and tap a bit of scrap ally 3/8" x 26tpi

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/69677e8b26b225cbec60_13.jpg) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=13)

Screw the brass into the ally and machine to length.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/69677e8b26b225cbec60_14.jpg) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=14)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=14)

Knock the top slide over a little and machine the taper. My myford doesn't have enough travel to machine the full length so I machined as much as possible then finished with a file and emery paper

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/69677e8b26b225cbec60_15.jpg) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=15)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=15)

The shaft I have made from stainless steel. Turn the little top piece and drill and tap from some 7/16" stainless steel. cross drill 3/32". Thread the top of the shaft

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/69677e8b26b225cbec60_16.jpg) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=16)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=16)

Screw the 2 pieces tightly together with a drop of loctite on the thread. then cross drill

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/69677e8b26b225cbec60_17.jpg) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=17)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=17)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/69677e8b26b225cbec60_18.jpg) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=18)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=18)

A bronze collar and thrust washer. Bend a bit of 3/32" stainless steel for the handle

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/69677e8b26b225cbec60_19.jpg) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=19)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=19)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/69677e8b26b225cbec60_20.jpg) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=20)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/69677e8b26b225cbec60?p=20)

Cheers

Rich




Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on August 06, 2018, 09:38:33 PM
I'm a little confused.
You cut a groove with a parting tool then you milled a 1/8 slot (into that groove?)
Is the groove deeper than the slot?
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: b.lindsey on August 06, 2018, 10:04:33 PM
Just getting caught back up on your build Rich. Love all the great photos and the details.

Bill
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on August 06, 2018, 11:02:44 PM
Hi

Thanks Bill  :ThumbsUp:

Carl, cutting the slot with a parting tool just removes some waste. If you look at the drawing you will see that the slots are flat bottomed.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: NickG on August 08, 2018, 03:34:53 PM
Looks good Rich, you’re making it look easy!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on August 08, 2018, 06:56:19 PM
Hi

Thanks Nick

I don't know about easy  ::)

Maybe I should show more of the mistakes  :ROFL:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on August 08, 2018, 10:40:36 PM
Hi

The forked lever starts life as a bit of 1/2" x 9/16" steel. Drilled and reamed and the first step machined away.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/589c5397f1dd45745f4c_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/589c5397f1dd45745f4c?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/589c5397f1dd45745f4c?p=1)

Tapped M2.5 The plans call for 10 BA which is approximately 1.7mm which seems a little fine so I opted for the bigger size

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/589c5397f1dd45745f4c_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/589c5397f1dd45745f4c?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/589c5397f1dd45745f4c?p=2)

Machine the second step

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/589c5397f1dd45745f4c_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/589c5397f1dd45745f4c?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/589c5397f1dd45745f4c?p=3)

Make the removeable fork

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/589c5397f1dd45745f4c_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/589c5397f1dd45745f4c?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/589c5397f1dd45745f4c?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/589c5397f1dd45745f4c_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/589c5397f1dd45745f4c?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/589c5397f1dd45745f4c?p=5)

Machine the profile

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/589c5397f1dd45745f4c_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/589c5397f1dd45745f4c?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/589c5397f1dd45745f4c?p=6)

Cross drill for a pin

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/589c5397f1dd45745f4c_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/589c5397f1dd45745f4c?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/589c5397f1dd45745f4c?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/589c5397f1dd45745f4c_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/589c5397f1dd45745f4c?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/589c5397f1dd45745f4c?p=8)

Make the nut. I have used stainless steel

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/589c5397f1dd45745f4c_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/589c5397f1dd45745f4c?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/589c5397f1dd45745f4c?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/589c5397f1dd45745f4c_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/589c5397f1dd45745f4c?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/589c5397f1dd45745f4c?p=10)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on August 09, 2018, 08:18:38 PM
Hi

The levers for the brake shaft are first drilled then held on a mandrel and turned

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/2e6f951854967dbc03fa_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/2e6f951854967dbc03fa?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/2e6f951854967dbc03fa?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/2e6f951854967dbc03fa_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/2e6f951854967dbc03fa?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/2e6f951854967dbc03fa?p=2)

Then profiled

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/2e6f951854967dbc03fa_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/2e6f951854967dbc03fa?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/2e6f951854967dbc03fa?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/2e6f951854967dbc03fa_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/2e6f951854967dbc03fa?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/2e6f951854967dbc03fa?p=4)

2 pins for the driving brake hanger. I have made sleeves and used a 3mm cap head screw, all stainless steel

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/2e6f951854967dbc03fa_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/2e6f951854967dbc03fa?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/2e6f951854967dbc03fa?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/2e6f951854967dbc03fa_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/2e6f951854967dbc03fa?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/2e6f951854967dbc03fa?p=6)

2 couplings. Start with some 5/16" stainless steel in a 5/16" collet in the lathe. Turn down to 1/4", drill and tap.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/2e6f951854967dbc03fa_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/2e6f951854967dbc03fa?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/2e6f951854967dbc03fa?p=7)

Held in a square collet block, cross drill.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/2e6f951854967dbc03fa_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/2e6f951854967dbc03fa?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/2e6f951854967dbc03fa?p=8)

Machine one side

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/2e6f951854967dbc03fa_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/2e6f951854967dbc03fa?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/2e6f951854967dbc03fa?p=9)

Turn the collet block over and machine the other side

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/2e6f951854967dbc03fa_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/2e6f951854967dbc03fa?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/2e6f951854967dbc03fa?p=10)

Change to a 1/4" collet in the lathe and machine the other end

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/2e6f951854967dbc03fa_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/2e6f951854967dbc03fa?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/2e6f951854967dbc03fa?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/2e6f951854967dbc03fa_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/2e6f951854967dbc03fa?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/2e6f951854967dbc03fa?p=12)

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Steamer5 on August 10, 2018, 06:06:38 AM
Looking good Rich.


Cheers Kerrin
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jakdaw43 on August 10, 2018, 01:08:28 PM
Excellent photos Rich...a real help to the newcomers to the hobby.
Cheers Stuart
Alias jakdaw43
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on August 10, 2018, 06:48:40 PM
Hi

Thanks Kerrin and Stuart  :ThumbsUp:

Continuing with the brakes, a pair of beams are needed made from 1/2" x 3/16" flat steel bar so the first job is to machine some steel to size, I started with 5/8" cx 3/16"

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8db79af0383bc0b01330_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8db79af0383bc0b01330?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8db79af0383bc0b01330?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8db79af0383bc0b01330_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8db79af0383bc0b01330?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8db79af0383bc0b01330?p=2)

Set up square in the mill and using an edge finder to locate a corner. From there using the DRO centre drill the centre

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8db79af0383bc0b01330_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8db79af0383bc0b01330?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8db79af0383bc0b01330?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8db79af0383bc0b01330_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8db79af0383bc0b01330?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8db79af0383bc0b01330?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8db79af0383bc0b01330_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8db79af0383bc0b01330?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8db79af0383bc0b01330?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8db79af0383bc0b01330_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8db79af0383bc0b01330?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8db79af0383bc0b01330?p=6)

Move to the lathe and centre in the 4 jaw using a spring loaded centre and DTI

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8db79af0383bc0b01330_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8db79af0383bc0b01330?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8db79af0383bc0b01330?p=7)

Turn and thread each end as per the plans except I have used M3 threads

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8db79af0383bc0b01330_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8db79af0383bc0b01330?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8db79af0383bc0b01330?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8db79af0383bc0b01330_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8db79af0383bc0b01330?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8db79af0383bc0b01330?p=9)

Machine the profile

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8db79af0383bc0b01330_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8db79af0383bc0b01330?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8db79af0383bc0b01330?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8db79af0383bc0b01330_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8db79af0383bc0b01330?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8db79af0383bc0b01330?p=11)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on August 16, 2018, 08:22:36 PM
Hi

The day started well enough by doing a bit of zinc plating

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b496018db6270a3245b3_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b496018db6270a3245b3?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b496018db6270a3245b3?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b496018db6270a3245b3_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b496018db6270a3245b3?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b496018db6270a3245b3?p=2)

Then made 4 pins for the brake blocks

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b496018db6270a3245b3_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b496018db6270a3245b3?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b496018db6270a3245b3?p=3)

The hole in the brake block was drilled No. 31 which is a few thou under 1/8" so the pins are a press fit

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b496018db6270a3245b3_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b496018db6270a3245b3?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b496018db6270a3245b3?p=4)

Followed by a bit of trial assembly work

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/b496018db6270a3245b3_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/b496018db6270a3245b3?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/b496018db6270a3245b3?p=5)

At this point it became obvious the the brake links and rods etc were not going to fit  :facepalm:  :facepalm2:

Because I have changed the suspension to coil springs they are in the way of the pull rods.  :Doh:

The rest of the day was spent figuring a new way to operate the brakes  :headscratch: I think I have it sorted now so when I have it fitted I'll post more

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Admiral_dk on August 16, 2018, 09:24:35 PM
Oh man what a bummer - I really hope that the solution isn't a        :censored: (been there too many times) - but one that will make you fell good about it again.

Best wishes

Per
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on August 17, 2018, 01:55:33 AM
Bummer. Luckily, as it appears, it's far enough down the road not to stop you.  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on August 19, 2018, 11:14:56 AM
Hi

A quick update on the brakes

I have made 2 new beams

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/5f1bff7430ebde1b0123_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/5f1bff7430ebde1b0123?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/5f1bff7430ebde1b0123?p=1)

The rods that go from the rear lever to the rear axle I have threaded with a left hand and a right hand thread. Likewise one of the new couplings is left hand thread

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/5f1bff7430ebde1b0123_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/5f1bff7430ebde1b0123?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/5f1bff7430ebde1b0123?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/5f1bff7430ebde1b0123_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/5f1bff7430ebde1b0123?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/5f1bff7430ebde1b0123?p=5)


The socket head screws in the rear horn plates have been replaced with countersunk screws to give a little more clearance

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/5f1bff7430ebde1b0123_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/5f1bff7430ebde1b0123?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/5f1bff7430ebde1b0123?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/5f1bff7430ebde1b0123_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/5f1bff7430ebde1b0123?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/5f1bff7430ebde1b0123?p=3)

The rods that go from beam to beam are threaded each end to provide adjustment

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/5f1bff7430ebde1b0123_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/5f1bff7430ebde1b0123?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/5f1bff7430ebde1b0123?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/5f1bff7430ebde1b0123_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/5f1bff7430ebde1b0123?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/5f1bff7430ebde1b0123?p=7)

All the rods and beams are stainless steel

Cheers

Rich


Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Admiral_dk on August 19, 2018, 09:40:59 PM
You don't mention the result, but I guess that all is well now  :noidea:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on August 20, 2018, 08:05:12 PM
Hi

Well I measured it with my best piece of knotted string  :lolb: :ROFL: :Lol: so fingers crossed

Next job is to drop the boiler back in the frames and see if the firebox clears the rods but I'm busy over the next couple of weeks so shop time will be short

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 01, 2018, 08:23:27 PM
Hi

With the brake gear roughly in place I have turned my attention to the ashpan and grate

Firstly a couple of little brass clamps to hold the boiler in position. They are not a tight fit which allows for expansion of the boiler

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/744cb815e6661af0576e_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/744cb815e6661af0576e_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=12)

Here it is as written in the article

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/744cb815e6661af0576e_14.jpg) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=14)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=14)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/744cb815e6661af0576e_15.jpg) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=15)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=15)

I drew a pattern on the computer, printed it out and stuck it to a bit of cardboard with spray glue. Cut it out and stick the corners together with a hot glue gun

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/744cb815e6661af0576e_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/744cb815e6661af0576e_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/744cb815e6661af0576e_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=3)

A trial fit in the frames and it seems ok

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/744cb815e6661af0576e_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=4)

The grate I picked up at a steam fair. Its stainless steel, tough as old boots so was cut with an angle grinder fitted with a stainless steel cutting blade

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/744cb815e6661af0576e_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/744cb815e6661af0576e_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/744cb815e6661af0576e_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=7)

Another copy of the template stuck to some stainless steel and cut out with the angle grinder

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/744cb815e6661af0576e_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/744cb815e6661af0576e_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=9)

Fold up the sides

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/744cb815e6661af0576e_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=10)

Silver solder together. Solder a tube across and a couple of strips to support the grate. Make the pin. The rest of the day was spent grindind and fettling to get it to fit.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/744cb815e6661af0576e_13.jpg) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/744cb815e6661af0576e?p=13)


With hindsight I needn't have bothered trying to be too accurate as it didn't fit too well. It has to be fettled to fit. The bottom edge of the boiler, and the foundation ring aren't square or straight.

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on September 01, 2018, 09:36:43 PM
Great progress, Rich!  Its really starting to look like an engine!
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on September 01, 2018, 10:27:54 PM
I'm happy to see the progress. It's looking great!  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 06, 2018, 07:34:20 PM
Hi

Thanks Kim and Carl  :ThumbsUp:

Because I have modified the brake gear I can't now fit the rear safety angle/stretcher  ::)

I thought about modifying it by cutting 2 slots in it for the brake rods to go through but there would be very little metal left weakening the angle too much. I have made 2 little brackets that sit on the frame in the same mounting holes. They are drilled 3/8" to take a 3/8" round stainless steel bar. I haven't cut the bar to length yet. On final fitment I will drill and pin the bar and brackets together

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/72d0374c6ba80599c809_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/72d0374c6ba80599c809?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/72d0374c6ba80599c809?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/72d0374c6ba80599c809_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/72d0374c6ba80599c809?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/72d0374c6ba80599c809?p=2)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 06, 2018, 07:46:43 PM
Hi

The grate sits in the ashpan on the 2 cross beams and sits up inside the boiler firebox being held there only by the ashpan. The idea is that should I need to drop the fire quickly all I have to do is pull the pin and the ashpan and grate will fall out.

Thats ok but it makes putting the ashpan and grate into the loco a bit tricky. To get round this I have simply wired the grate to the ashpan while I push it in. Once fitted it won't matter if the copper wire burns away.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a374a2d2715c4153a87a_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a374a2d2715c4153a87a?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a374a2d2715c4153a87a?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a374a2d2715c4153a87a_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a374a2d2715c4153a87a?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a374a2d2715c4153a87a?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a374a2d2715c4153a87a_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a374a2d2715c4153a87a?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a374a2d2715c4153a87a?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a374a2d2715c4153a87a_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a374a2d2715c4153a87a?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a374a2d2715c4153a87a?p=4)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 06, 2018, 08:32:13 PM
Hi

I'm getting close to a final assembly of the frames so I'm looking around to see if there is anything else that needs to be done before the assembly and paint. One thing that I have had in mind for a while is the buffers. The plans show 2 simple steel blocks, not very appealing

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a86c6d4d6006efe40884_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a86c6d4d6006efe40884?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a86c6d4d6006efe40884?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a86c6d4d6006efe40884_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a86c6d4d6006efe40884?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a86c6d4d6006efe40884?p=2)

I fancy something more like sprung buffers.

You can see from the drawing though that there are angles that bolt the beam to the frames right where the buffers go which means that the type of buffer that has a plunger sticking out the back would not be possible to fit. Most of today was spent coming up with this idea that uses the existing bolt holes

Starting with some 1" square steel turn down, drill and flatten the bottom with an end mill to make the body

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/244d271e72fab3165367_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=1)

Chop off in the band saw

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/244d271e72fab3165367_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=2)

Face to size (sorry no photo here)

The plunger part is made from some 1" round stainless steel

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/244d271e72fab3165367_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=3)

Cut off, turn round and face. I have profiled the buffer head alittle, again no photo, sorry

The body is drilled and tapped M5 for a grub screw

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/244d271e72fab3165367_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/244d271e72fab3165367_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/244d271e72fab3165367_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=6)

The plunger has a 1/8" slot cut in it

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/244d271e72fab3165367_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/244d271e72fab3165367_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=8)

The spring is 3/8" stainless steel and cut from a length

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/244d271e72fab3165367_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=9)

The back of the body is drilled and tapped M3 to match 2 holes in the buffer beam

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/244d271e72fab3165367_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=11)

The bolt holes in the buffer beam are M2.5 so the 2 holes for the buffer must be drilled out to M3

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/244d271e72fab3165367_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=12)

The buffer can now be bolted on from the back using 2 of the existing holes, no further mod to the beam being required

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/244d271e72fab3165367_13.jpg) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/244d271e72fab3165367_14.jpg) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=14)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=14)

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/244d271e72fab3165367_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/244d271e72fab3165367?p=10)


That looks a lot better, I'm happy with that

Cheers

Rich




Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Ye-Ole Steam Dude on September 06, 2018, 08:51:56 PM
Hello Rich,

Cannot wait to see it completed and all painted up, looking good.

Have a great day,
Thomas
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 09, 2018, 06:29:57 PM
Hi

Thanks Thomas  :ThumbsUp:

Got all 4 buffers made. They are having a quick coat of red paint

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/62c450a8c644d09aa492.jpg) (https://www.use.com/62c450a8c644d09aa492)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/62c450a8c644d09aa492)


Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on September 09, 2018, 06:36:14 PM
Just saw the post on fabricating the buffers.  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on September 09, 2018, 06:57:04 PM
Those buffers will look much better! 


 :popcorn:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on September 10, 2018, 05:10:43 AM
Rich, those are some fancy looking spring loaded buffers!  Agree with Chris these are MUCH better!
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 10, 2018, 09:18:06 PM
Hi

Thanks  Carl, Chris and Kim

The buffers have been assembled. I have used a little vaseline as grease and used a little loctite on the grub screws

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/ad999c3ed85c2ad55216_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/ad999c3ed85c2ad55216?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/ad999c3ed85c2ad55216?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/ad999c3ed85c2ad55216_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/ad999c3ed85c2ad55216?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/ad999c3ed85c2ad55216?p=2)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 13, 2018, 09:09:25 PM
Hi

The main stretcher, the one that carries the axle driven pump and the valve rod guides is next up to be fitted to the frames.

There is nothing in the text to explain how its fitted but I think its worthy of some detailed explanation.

All the info you get is the hole positions on the plans, shown here in the red circle

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/8ef68b7d7216587e7ef5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/8ef68b7d7216587e7ef5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/8ef68b7d7216587e7ef5)

If you look closely you will see that they are at a slight angle to match the slope of the cylinders. The stretcher over laps the large oval hole in the frame which is why there is a strange hole layout.

My first job was to map out the hole position

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/71b161b54f4c26ffa084_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/71b161b54f4c26ffa084?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/71b161b54f4c26ffa084?p=8)

From that I made a drilling jig from some scrap steel

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/71b161b54f4c26ffa084_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/71b161b54f4c26ffa084?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/71b161b54f4c26ffa084?p=2)

To get the position on the frame I resorted to my old trick of printing out 2 exact size sections of the plan. One printout reversed for the opposite frame. Cut them out and tape them to the frames

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/71b161b54f4c26ffa084_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/71b161b54f4c26ffa084?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/71b161b54f4c26ffa084?p=1)

I have an optical centre punch which is brilliant for jobs like this. Centre punch just 2 of the holes

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/71b161b54f4c26ffa084_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/71b161b54f4c26ffa084?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/71b161b54f4c26ffa084?p=3)

drill 2 holes

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/71b161b54f4c26ffa084_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/71b161b54f4c26ffa084?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/71b161b54f4c26ffa084?p=4)

Bolt on the drilling jig and drill the other holes

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/71b161b54f4c26ffa084_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/71b161b54f4c26ffa084?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/71b161b54f4c26ffa084?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/71b161b54f4c26ffa084_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/71b161b54f4c26ffa084?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/71b161b54f4c26ffa084?p=6)

Repeat on the opposite frame

Now the stretcher has to be drilled and tapped. I have used M3

Set the stretcher up square

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/71b161b54f4c26ffa084_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/71b161b54f4c26ffa084?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/71b161b54f4c26ffa084?p=7)

Find an edge with a wobbler

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/71b161b54f4c26ffa084_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/71b161b54f4c26ffa084?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/71b161b54f4c26ffa084?p=9)

Drill and tap M3 using the DRO and the drawing hole positions. 3 holes are in the edge of the stretcher and 3 are in the brass angle

Heres the stretcher ready to be fitted. All the stainless steel button heads now have self locking nuts

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/71b161b54f4c26ffa084_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/71b161b54f4c26ffa084?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/71b161b54f4c26ffa084?p=10)

Hope that helps

Cheers

Rich


Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on September 13, 2018, 09:17:35 PM
More very impressive work...
 :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 14, 2018, 09:17:47 AM
Hi

Thanks Chris  :ThumbsUp:

Watching you as well  :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:

The front and rear beams are made of 1/8" steel. I have read in a couple of other loco builds that 1/8" is not really strong/rigid enough for a loco of this size and power especially on the rear drag beam. I toyed with the idea of making another from 1/8" steel to double the thickness but searching through my stock I found a bit of 5mm thick steel so made a new one. It took only 15 minutes to make using the old one as a template

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/66ef94583ba349ffecbb_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/66ef94583ba349ffecbb?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/66ef94583ba349ffecbb?p=1)

The brass angles that support the cab floor and rear end of the running boards are cut, drilled and tapped M3.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/66ef94583ba349ffecbb_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/66ef94583ba349ffecbb?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/66ef94583ba349ffecbb?p=2)

Once fitted and bolted in the frame is noticably stiffer

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/66ef94583ba349ffecbb_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/66ef94583ba349ffecbb?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/66ef94583ba349ffecbb?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/66ef94583ba349ffecbb_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/66ef94583ba349ffecbb?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/66ef94583ba349ffecbb?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/66ef94583ba349ffecbb_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/66ef94583ba349ffecbb?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/66ef94583ba349ffecbb?p=5)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 15, 2018, 12:27:46 PM
Hi

PS

As the front and rear beams are identical I have decided to fit the now spare rear beam to the front, doubling the thickness there.

cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on September 15, 2018, 05:34:54 PM
Enjoying your build, Rich.  Love the red bumpers!  And I'll bet the additional thickness on the front and rear beams will add a lot of rigidity to the frame.

I always have to wait till the weekends to read your thread. Well, its not weekends so much as wait till I'm reading from home!  Your pictures won't show up for me at work.  For some reason, the place you host your photos is blocked by the firewall at work.  But I see them fine at home.  :-\

Great progress Rich,  :ThumbsUp:
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 15, 2018, 06:53:00 PM
Hi

Thanks Kim  :ThumbsUp:

The front beams doubled up

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/12d5ad8723eddb2b7e7d.jpg) (https://www.use.com/12d5ad8723eddb2b7e7d)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/12d5ad8723eddb2b7e7d)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 15, 2018, 07:01:55 PM
Hi

After a rub down with wet and dry the frames get a couple of coats of etching primer

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3089194e58c077f41293_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3089194e58c077f41293?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3089194e58c077f41293?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3089194e58c077f41293_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3089194e58c077f41293?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3089194e58c077f41293?p=2)

Followed by 3 coats of smooth Hammerite

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3089194e58c077f41293_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3089194e58c077f41293?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3089194e58c077f41293?p=3)



Ladies and gentlemen we have ourselves a loco frame

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3089194e58c077f41293_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3089194e58c077f41293?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3089194e58c077f41293?p=4)

 :whoohoo:

 :cheers:

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Admiral_dk on September 15, 2018, 07:48:27 PM
Look good Rich  :ThumbsUp:

Will follow along to see you complete this build  :popcorn:  :cheers:

Per
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 15, 2018, 08:30:52 PM
Hi

Thanks Per  :ThumbsUp:

While waiting for the preverbial paint to dry I busied myself with a little work on the axle boxes.

First job was to make 4 plates from stainless steel that fit across the spring studs

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f9346025831e4ad4e222_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f9346025831e4ad4e222?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f9346025831e4ad4e222?p=1)

Followed by drilling the top half firstly 3/16" then 1mm to form oil cups

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f9346025831e4ad4e222_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f9346025831e4ad4e222?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f9346025831e4ad4e222?p=2)

And finally with a 5/16" end mill form a recess in the bottom half for a felt pad

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f9346025831e4ad4e222_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f9346025831e4ad4e222?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f9346025831e4ad4e222?p=3)

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on September 15, 2018, 11:19:41 PM
The paint makes it really start to look like a locomotive, doesn't it?

I'm getting ready for that step myself and I'm worrying about it. I'll say you have done a fine job of it!

Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 16, 2018, 08:59:26 AM
Hi

Thanks Kim  :ThumbsUp:

I am a fan of Hammerite, both the hammer finish and the smooth. It needs a good week or so to really harden off but once hardened it gives a really hard wearing finish. The aerosols are good for getting a decent finish.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Ye-Ole Steam Dude on September 16, 2018, 10:31:30 AM
Hi Rich,

Frame now in color looks really good.

Have a great day,
Thomas
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 20, 2018, 08:55:44 PM
Hi

Thanks Thomas  :ThumbsUp:

I have to make a start on assembling the loco now. Some parts can't be fitted until other parts are fitted which means fitting some other parts  :thinking:

Spray painted the wheels red

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/975e95c9de188c9fb583_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=1)

Fitted all the horn blocks

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/975e95c9de188c9fb583_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/975e95c9de188c9fb583_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/975e95c9de188c9fb583_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=4)

Then I spent quite some time fettling each axle box to get a nice sliding fit

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/975e95c9de188c9fb583_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=6)

wrq09OWojA8
Fitted the axle pump and the valve rod guides

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/975e95c9de188c9fb583_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=5)

Fitted the front lower stretcher/safety angle and round stretcher

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/975e95c9de188c9fb583_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/975e95c9de188c9fb583_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=8)

I need to fit the cylinders before I can fit the motion but firstly I need to make and fit some cylinder covers. Because I have cut the cylinders from the solid and not used castings I have some angled corners to worry about. Some stainless steel sheet is cut to size and folded to fit the cylinders

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/975e95c9de188c9fb583_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/975e95c9de188c9fb583_15.jpg) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=15)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=15)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/975e95c9de188c9fb583_16.jpg) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=16)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=16)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/975e95c9de188c9fb583_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/975e95c9de188c9fb583_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/975e95c9de188c9fb583_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/975e95c9de188c9fb583_13.jpg) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=13)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/975e95c9de188c9fb583_14.jpg) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=14)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/975e95c9de188c9fb583?p=14)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: crueby on September 20, 2018, 10:07:39 PM
Very nice!
 :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on September 21, 2018, 05:20:27 AM
Nice progress, Rich.  Like the video of the axle boxes! I assume there will be springs involved there?

Another newbie question; what's the point of the cylinder cover?  If its for insulation, it doesn't seem like a thin piece of sheet metal is going to help hold much heat in.  Is it for looks?

Thanks,
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 21, 2018, 08:30:29 AM
Hi

Thanks Chris  :ThumbsUp:

Kim. You will have to go back quite a few pages to find the section on the axle boxes and horn plates but briefly its this. The original drawings for Conway show the loco with leaf springs. Talking to the guys at our club as to where to source materials, spring steel and tufnol, the general concensus was convert to coil springs if you can. They are much easier to set up than leaf springs and easier to maintain. Fit dummy leaf springs if necessary, they are available as bronze castings, many locos do this. The horn blocks I did purchase as a bronze casting but it was of very poor quality and in places slightly undersize before machining. With hindsight I should have sent the casting back but hey ho. Some say using steel horns and cast iron axle boxes is a better option anyway.

The cylinders can be purchased as castings but at a whopping £336.00 I opted to have a go at machining them from the solid. Cast cylinders do have some detail but are a bit rough so most locos fit cylinder covers to tidy things up. I did think that my cylinders looked ok with the nice smooth sides and would be ok just painted but in the end decided to make some nice shiny covers. They are held on with just 4 bolts which screw into tapped holes in the cylinders so I decided to drill and tap the cylinders now before they are fitted. I have to fit the cylinders in order to line up the motion. Once fitted I don't want to take them off again.

Hope that helps

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: NickG on September 21, 2018, 10:14:19 AM
Looks great Rich, think they should have lagging behind the covers as insulation.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jasonb on September 21, 2018, 11:18:06 AM
Yes the covers are theer to retain the insulation but you will need to do some more milling to create the space for it arounf your solid blocks, this is why cast cylinders have the flanges at the end full width but are waisted down for the majority of their length. Looks good though.

Reducing the mass also means the cylinder will warm up faster so less condensate for the drain cocks to deal with
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on September 22, 2018, 05:31:01 AM
Thanks Rich,
Yes, I do remember your discussion on springs, now that you mention it  :embarassed:

As for the cylinder covers, they look great!  And the discussion does help.

Thanks for the additional info Jason and Nick.  Always appreciate learning something!
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on September 22, 2018, 02:48:37 PM
Hi

Thanks Nick, jason and Kim  :ThumbsUp:

I think there will be enough room to get a layer of insulation in  :thinking:

A quick update

The wheels have been painted

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/e368d0724d7f03c2423d_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/e368d0724d7f03c2423d?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/e368d0724d7f03c2423d?p=1)

The two wheels that go on the front axle have been glued on with loctite. They have been quartered as regards the balance weights which needs no great accuracy, a square being good enough. The accuracy must come when the cranks are fitted. Slight pressure applied in the lathe to push the wheels upto their shoulders.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/e368d0724d7f03c2423d_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/e368d0724d7f03c2423d?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/e368d0724d7f03c2423d?p=3)


The left hand cylinder fitted and a trial assembly of the slide bars, cross head and support bracket

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/e368d0724d7f03c2423d_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/e368d0724d7f03c2423d?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/e368d0724d7f03c2423d?p=2)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 13, 2018, 05:24:33 PM
Hi

Well it seems ages since I posted anything, I have been away on holiday  :wine1: but now I'm back and fully refreshed.

There is quite a bit to catch up on so I will split it up a bit

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 13, 2018, 05:32:08 PM
Hi

A little crank which fits onto the right hand driving crank pin. This is the drive for the mechanical lubricator. Its optional and not needed if a displacement lubricator is used.

Straight forward job as per the plans

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d195281ad7ef7161c9bf_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d195281ad7ef7161c9bf?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d195281ad7ef7161c9bf?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d195281ad7ef7161c9bf_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d195281ad7ef7161c9bf?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d195281ad7ef7161c9bf?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/d195281ad7ef7161c9bf_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/d195281ad7ef7161c9bf?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/d195281ad7ef7161c9bf?p=3)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 13, 2018, 05:42:38 PM
Hi

The cranks are cross drilled to take 3/32" taper pins. Initially they will be glued on with Loctite then pinned.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/39bfa7083b9eaee0a324_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/39bfa7083b9eaee0a324?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/39bfa7083b9eaee0a324?p=1)

The crank pins are pressed in

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/39bfa7083b9eaee0a324_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/39bfa7083b9eaee0a324?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/39bfa7083b9eaee0a324?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/39bfa7083b9eaee0a324_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/39bfa7083b9eaee0a324?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/39bfa7083b9eaee0a324?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/39bfa7083b9eaee0a324_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/39bfa7083b9eaee0a324?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/39bfa7083b9eaee0a324?p=4)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Ye-Ole Steam Dude on October 13, 2018, 06:54:23 PM
Hello Rich,

Coming along very nicely and enjoying this build.

Have a great day,
Thomas
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 13, 2018, 08:26:56 PM
Hi

Thanks Thomas  :ThumbsUp:

The cranks must be quartered accurately. Never having done this before I did as much research as I could. There are many methods, some involving some quite elaborate jigs. I settled on a version of this idea which suits my lathe and tooling but would be easily adaptable to other lathes.

I think it is worthy of a more detailed explanation but I'll try not to bore you too much.

Firstly I needed to make an extended centre, one that is long enough to extend past the face of the 4 jaw chuck by about
1 3/4".

Chuck a piece of round bar, 3/4" mild steel will do but I have used some 20mm silver steel. Centre drill.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/245749a5b2d11045d71b_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/245749a5b2d11045d71b?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/245749a5b2d11045d71b?p=1)

With a centre in the tail stock mount another centre between. Mount a dial gauge on the top slide and set it over so that it moves exactly parallel to the taper of the centre. Lock the top slide in this position. Remove the floating taper and move the tail stock up to support the steel bar. Using the top slide only turn the taper.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/245749a5b2d11045d71b_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/245749a5b2d11045d71b?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/245749a5b2d11045d71b?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/245749a5b2d11045d71b_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/245749a5b2d11045d71b?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/245749a5b2d11045d71b?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_1/245749a5b2d11045d71b_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/245749a5b2d11045d71b?p=2)

Drill and tap the end 10mm

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/245749a5b2d11045d71b_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/245749a5b2d11045d71b?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/245749a5b2d11045d71b?p=4)

Fit the newly turned taper into the spindle and secure with a draw bar. Cut off to the required length and turn a 60° point on the end

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/245749a5b2d11045d71b_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/245749a5b2d11045d71b?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/245749a5b2d11045d71b?p=5)

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 14, 2018, 09:58:35 AM
Hi

I have just thought of a simpler way to make this centre  :thinking:

Myford collets are held in with a threaded nose ring which can't be used as well as the screw on chuck. But I also have some MT2 collets for my milling machine which are tapped for a draw bar. Using a 1/2" collet held in with a draw bar and fitted with some 1/2" round bar all you would have to do is turn the 60° point  :facepalm2:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 15, 2018, 08:21:15 PM
Hi

Fit the 4 jaw chuck and make a bracket from some ally angle which clamps across the lathe ways. Line the chuck up as vertical as possible and secure with a clamp to the bracket.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/0b6c5c567abf01758fff.jpg) (https://www.use.com/0b6c5c567abf01758fff)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/0b6c5c567abf01758fff)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: g0rph on October 17, 2018, 11:14:21 AM
Hi Rich,   

I’ve not been on here for a while, but I note you are still making good progress on Conway.   She’s looking good.

I see (page 36) that you had the problem with the blowdown valve fouling the frames that I had mentioned a while back.   Your solution is a little neater than that on my engine.  The original builder of my loco seems to have just attacked the frames with a big file to solve that detail! 

I’m still working on refurbishment and here is another “gotcha” which may save you some time/effort/money.   Martins saddle tank drawing calls for a tube over the inner dome of 1.5” inside diameter.   That size however will not allow the tank to fit over the inner dome flange and the tank does not sit low enough as a result!   Leastways that is the case on my engine.    The tube needs to be about 2” ID to fit correctly.   

Take care though, that your outer dome casting is large enough to fit over the 2” hole at the top end.   Mine is just OK.   I suppose a stepped (or tapered) tube with just the bottom at 2” ID and the top at 1.5” would be best, but that’s too much work for me!

While looking at the pics on page 36 it appears that you have arranged the snifting valve bush on the right side of the wet header bush (viewed from the drivers viewpoint).    On my loco, the snifting valve pipe would either foul the blower bush, or the inside of the boiler barrel in that position (depending on the precise final angle of the wet header/superheater assembly).   

Maybe yours is yours is OK though?   I mentioned it as I’m busy re-making my inner dome, regulator and wet header assembly at this moment.    My loco did not originally have a snifting valve and I am trying to add one.

Oddly my wet header was assembled with 2 x M3 screws and 1 x 4BA!   For my new assembly I too have opted for metric.   BA screws are too expensive now unless essential.

Why is your axle pump upside down (page 39)?    ;)

I look forward to your next instalments.

Regards,   Richard.

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 17, 2018, 08:58:42 PM
Hi

Thanks Richard  :ThumbsUp:

You were quite right the blow down valves were nowhere near where they are shown on the plans. There was a bit of fettling here and there to do on the frames so it was easier to strip them down and machine the openings.

Regarding the dome. I might be changing the design and going for side tanks so we can cross that bridge later.

Why is the axle pump upside down  :embarassed: :facepalm: :facepalm2: :shrug: :wallbang: :ShakeHead:

The snifting valve is on the left on the plans

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/cfce7c5e0b49a84021ac.jpg) (https://www.use.com/cfce7c5e0b49a84021ac)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/cfce7c5e0b49a84021ac)

Assuming I have followed the plans correctly thats where it will go.

I'll post more on the quartering shortly

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 17, 2018, 09:39:34 PM
Hi

Back to the quartering.

Make up a bracket that that bolts to the cross slide. I have used a bit of ally angle onto which is bolted an arm and a spacer

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/482a9ca1fcee01833756_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/482a9ca1fcee01833756?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/482a9ca1fcee01833756?p=1)

Move the saddle and cross slide until the spacer touches the rear face of the top jaw and lock the cross slide

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/482a9ca1fcee01833756_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/482a9ca1fcee01833756?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/482a9ca1fcee01833756?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/482a9ca1fcee01833756_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/482a9ca1fcee01833756?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/482a9ca1fcee01833756?p=3)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 18, 2018, 08:30:55 PM
Hi

Move the saddle towards the tail stock

Fit the extended centre into the spindle and another centre into the tail stock.

Clamp a piece of steel onto the top of the front jaw

Fit one of the cranks to the axle with loctite

Mount the axle between centres with the already fixed crank towards the chuck, leave the other crank loose for now

Turn the axle until the crankpin of the fixed crank touches the underside of the steel plate clamped to the top of the front jaw

Apply loctite to the other crank and as quickly as possible (Loctite will start to hold after a few seconds) push it onto the axle turning it until the crank pin is in contact with the bracket and hold it there for a minute or so

The cranks are now quartered.

It is not essential that the cranks are at exactly 90° to each other. It can be 89° or 91° or what ever. The important thing is that both axles are the same

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/355da042a5531eb5b294.jpg) (https://www.use.com/355da042a5531eb5b294)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/355da042a5531eb5b294)

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 20, 2018, 05:58:47 PM
Hi

I spent the best part of a day fettling the axle boxes and horns until the axles were a nice easy sliding fit. They need to be a little on the loose side so that the axle can rock a little.

With that done I tried the coupling rods. The first one went on easily but when I tried to fit the other side it was clearly too tight. I managed eventually to get the con rod on but when I tried to rotate the wheels they were clearly binding.

 :headscratch: :thinking:

Take the con rods off again for a closer inspection. Join the rods together with a 5/16" pin through one end

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f9bba1e006d242dce2e0_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f9bba1e006d242dce2e0?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f9bba1e006d242dce2e0?p=2)

Just eye balling the other end it is clear there is something wrong. I turned and drilled and reamed the bushes in the lathe very carefully  :headscratch:

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f9bba1e006d242dce2e0_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f9bba1e006d242dce2e0?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f9bba1e006d242dce2e0?p=1)

I set up a bit of scrap ally bar in the mill, drilled and reamed a 5/16" hole and loctited a 5/16" pin in.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f9bba1e006d242dce2e0_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f9bba1e006d242dce2e0?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f9bba1e006d242dce2e0?p=3)

Then using the DRO moved the table exactly 8" and fitted another 5/16" pin

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f9bba1e006d242dce2e0_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f9bba1e006d242dce2e0?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f9bba1e006d242dce2e0?p=4)

I pressed the bush out of one end on each rod and dropped them over the pins

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f9bba1e006d242dce2e0_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f9bba1e006d242dce2e0?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f9bba1e006d242dce2e0?p=5)

Once again it can be clearly seen something is wrong.

I pressed out the other 2 bushes and checked each one

J0J4miI5nxM
The problem is the bushes are eccentric, the worst one by 15 thou!!!

I might be able to solve the problem by rotating the eccentric bushes and aligning them on the jig.

I tried making another bush on a test piece in the lathe and although I centre drilled then drilled the drill could be seen  wobbling. The reamer then followed the drill hole. The bush ended up eccentric. I think it would be better where accuracy is required to use a boring bar instead of a drill and reamer

Well at least I have found the problem.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: cnr6400 on October 20, 2018, 09:43:45 PM
Great job on those rods! Another approach or idea you might try is to fit bushings drilled well undersize on purpose, then bore the bushings in place in the rod on the mill. That way they will be as accurate as the mill / DRO is. With this method or with "clocking" eccentric bushes to the correct fit, it is important to pin the bushings in place so they can not rotate or move after being made to correct centres. Hope these ideas help.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 20, 2018, 10:32:27 PM
Hi

Thanks cnr6400  :ThumbsUp:

I had an idea along those lines  :thinking:

If I can't position the existing bushes accurately enough I will make 2 more bushes but leave them solid. Drop the 2 con rods onto a pin and clamp in place then drill and ream the solid bushes. Doing it as a pair should make them identical.

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Florian Eberhard on October 21, 2018, 12:14:22 AM
Hi Rich

Well drilling is more or less accurate for things like bushings. I would rather bore those bushes out before reaming. This way you can make sure the bore is absolutely concentrical to the outside diameter.

If you can't reach a good enough surface with boring (or have difficulties to get the right diameter) there is a trick to help the reamer staying in center and not wobbling around:
Support the reamer with a piece of material you clamp into the tool holder (instead of a lathe bit).
You have to be careful though not to bend the reamer out of the center, otherwise you will increase the diameter of the bore. (Better check that with an indicator!)
However, if you do so, you will restrict the wobbling in one direction and that usually is already enough to get the drill / reamer / spot drill centered.

Another possible way would be to first finish the inside diameter of your bushes, then make a lost mandrel and finish the oudside of your bushes on that lost mandrel. This should also result in a minimal runout.

Cheers Florian
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 21, 2018, 12:49:11 PM
Hi Florian

Thanks  :ThumbsUp:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 21, 2018, 04:55:52 PM
Hi

Along the lines of Florians suggestion.

Turn a mandrel to a very accurate 5/16"

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a9286eeab3a3b5da0aaf_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a9286eeab3a3b5da0aaf?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a9286eeab3a3b5da0aaf?p=1)

Drop on a new bush that has been drilled and reamed and turn the outside

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a9286eeab3a3b5da0aaf_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a9286eeab3a3b5da0aaf?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a9286eeab3a3b5da0aaf?p=2)

7aCA_ooyUZs
Thats better

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Florian Eberhard on October 21, 2018, 05:26:51 PM
Hey Rich
Well done!  :cheers:  ;)

Florian
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 21, 2018, 10:20:42 PM
Hi

Thanks Florian  :ThumbsUp:

Just one small correction, they are the coupling rods not the con rods  :old:

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: cnr6400 on October 25, 2018, 02:21:52 PM
Great job on the new bushings!
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 25, 2018, 07:28:24 PM
hi

Thanks cnr6400

I figure its time to fit the axles permanently so I stripped them out and spent a few more hours fettling to get things nice and smooth.

Cut some felt pads and fit them into the recess in the axle box

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/553b710b961aaf57775f_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/553b710b961aaf57775f?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/553b710b961aaf57775f?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/553b710b961aaf57775f_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/553b710b961aaf57775f?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/553b710b961aaf57775f?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/553b710b961aaf57775f_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/553b710b961aaf57775f?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/553b710b961aaf57775f?p=3)

Drill the cranks right through and ream the hole with a tapered reamer and tap in some 3/32" taper pins

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/553b710b961aaf57775f_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/553b710b961aaf57775f?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/553b710b961aaf57775f?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/553b710b961aaf57775f_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/553b710b961aaf57775f?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/553b710b961aaf57775f?p=5)

With the axles fitted into the frames the connecting rods are fitted

bykiQzvjYGY
There is a little resistance but nothing to worry about I don't think. Hopefully when I run it in on air it will bed down

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: NickG on October 26, 2018, 08:22:03 PM
Looks like a lovely fit on all that Rich.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 27, 2018, 03:55:47 PM
Hi

Thanks Nick :ThumbsUp:

I have been fitting some of the parts. A great deal of fettling to get them to fit nicely. Too much to list in detail so I'll just show a few of the items.

The piston rod was a little too tight in the rear cover so I made up a steel bush that is a good fit in the cylinder, reamed to take my 1/4" reamer and reamed it through in situ.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/64639e0db5e9c50c291a_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/64639e0db5e9c50c291a?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/64639e0db5e9c50c291a?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/64639e0db5e9c50c291a_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/64639e0db5e9c50c291a?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/64639e0db5e9c50c291a?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/64639e0db5e9c50c291a_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/64639e0db5e9c50c291a?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/64639e0db5e9c50c291a?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/64639e0db5e9c50c291a_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/64639e0db5e9c50c291a?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/64639e0db5e9c50c291a?p=4)

The motion plate is attached to its bracket and is fitted to the guide rods. The guide rods have had their rear ends drilled and tapped M2.5

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/64639e0db5e9c50c291a_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/64639e0db5e9c50c291a?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/64639e0db5e9c50c291a?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/64639e0db5e9c50c291a_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/64639e0db5e9c50c291a?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/64639e0db5e9c50c291a?p=6)

The holes are spotted in the frames then the motion plate removed and the frames drilled

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/64639e0db5e9c50c291a_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/64639e0db5e9c50c291a?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/64639e0db5e9c50c291a?p=7)

The motion plate needs a shim behind it

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/64639e0db5e9c50c291a_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/64639e0db5e9c50c291a?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/64639e0db5e9c50c291a?p=8)

Attached with stainless steel button head screws and self locking nuts

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/64639e0db5e9c50c291a_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/64639e0db5e9c50c291a?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/64639e0db5e9c50c291a?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/64639e0db5e9c50c291a_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/64639e0db5e9c50c291a?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/64639e0db5e9c50c291a?p=10)

A couple of progress shots

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/64639e0db5e9c50c291a_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/64639e0db5e9c50c291a?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/64639e0db5e9c50c291a?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/64639e0db5e9c50c291a_12.jpg) (https://www.use.com/64639e0db5e9c50c291a?p=12)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/64639e0db5e9c50c291a?p=12)

Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on October 27, 2018, 05:31:45 PM
Looking good, Rich!
Making all that motiony stuff fit together right is fiddly work.  Looks like you're just making it happen!  :popcorn: :popcorn:
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 27, 2018, 05:36:18 PM
Hi

Thanks Kim :ThumbsUp:

I am spending hours getting things to move correctly. I am glad I opted to bolt most things together instead of rivets. Had I riveted I would have had some serious problems by now. I have the option to take it apart and fettle

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 28, 2018, 09:50:48 AM
Hi

I spotted this on Fleabay

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/f8a4be7943c82931ac06.jpg) (https://www.use.com/f8a4be7943c82931ac06)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/f8a4be7943c82931ac06)

In the description the guy says it is a scan from an old 1950's Model Engineer magazine. At our club we have all the old magazines.

Doe's anyone have any idea as to the Date??? to save me a lot of searching

Cheers

Rich
Title: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: qreidford on October 28, 2018, 08:26:00 PM
Hi rich,

Try this site for an index for ME articles.
http://www.itech.net.au/modelengineer/

BTW I believe that we are members of the same club here in Leicester, hope to bump into you sometime.

Sorry, this isn’t the link I meant although I guess it works ok but I think these are the raw excel files which I have used in the past
 
http://www.groundlevel.demon.co.uk/me_index.html

Cheers
Q (Stirling single)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on October 29, 2018, 07:31:42 PM
hi

Thanks Q  :ThumbsUp:

Found it

1953 volume 109

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 01, 2018, 05:29:17 PM
Hi

Turned it round and started to assemble the other side

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/72732edcee78752836f0_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/72732edcee78752836f0?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/72732edcee78752836f0?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/72732edcee78752836f0_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/72732edcee78752836f0?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/72732edcee78752836f0?p=2)

Lots more fettling

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: cnr6400 on November 01, 2018, 07:46:05 PM
It's looking great Rich, well done!
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on November 02, 2018, 04:47:31 AM
Its coming together nicely, Rich!

So, are you finding your fancy holder a worthwhile item?  Is it worth the effort to build that rather complicated holder?

Thanks,
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: NickG on November 02, 2018, 07:39:38 AM
My Ajax has that type of fire hole door as does our club loco. I have to say it’s far easier to open and close with the top of shovel. Don’t make the mechanism tight though. Looking great.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 03, 2018, 09:14:17 PM
Hi

Thanks cnr6400, Kim and Nick  :ThumbsUp:

The fancy holder  :ROFL: Kim is an absolute must for loco building in my opinion.

Bear in mind that once this loco nears completion it will be in excess of 30 kilo's so lifting it will be a struggle let alone turning it over. Just turning it round would be a challenge.

hDFspHpmyxM
Cheeers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 04, 2018, 05:17:15 PM
hi

The piston rods have been cut to their correct length. Initially I loctited them into the cross heads then when the loctite had set drilled and pinned them

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/55694212168fefc14c03_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/55694212168fefc14c03?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/55694212168fefc14c03?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/55694212168fefc14c03_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/55694212168fefc14c03?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/55694212168fefc14c03?p=2)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jakdaw43 on November 05, 2018, 07:26:32 AM
Hi Rich,
Now that you cross pinned the  piston rod into the crosshead I suggest you break the bond of the Loctite so that any future maintenance etc. can be performed.
Excellent workmanship and detailed reports.

PS.  A friend is building a Kerr Stuart Wren in 7 1/4" and has built a simple turning/raising jig like your's with M12 studding; it works perfectly and saves a lot of mauling.
Cheers,
Stuart
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Roger B on November 05, 2018, 08:08:59 PM
Still following along in the background   :praise2:  That was a good fix for the connecting rod bushes  :ThumbsUp: A good stand or fixture is always good. Most of the top performance car engine builders use them as well.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 06, 2018, 08:41:53 PM
Hi

Thanks Stuart and Roger  :ThumbsUp:

I have come across a bit of a problem  :thinking: Had I known earlier I would have made some modifications

The axle pump bolts onto the stretcher and is very close to the axle, but you can't get it in or remove it with the axle in position.

Here's a bit of video to show the problem

fRbb3IdKEpk
I managed to get the screw out ( the screw is the ball lift limiter) but it is right in line with the axle and would be almost impossible to get back in.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3df16620815813a1e5c3_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3df16620815813a1e5c3?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3df16620815813a1e5c3?p=1)

The axle was removed to get the pump out and the screw has been replaced with a countersunk screw which now gives pump to axle clearance of about 1/8"

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3df16620815813a1e5c3_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3df16620815813a1e5c3?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3df16620815813a1e5c3?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3df16620815813a1e5c3_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3df16620815813a1e5c3?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3df16620815813a1e5c3?p=3)

The other option to remove the pump would be to remove the stretcher. Ok if you have used bolts to fit the stretcher to the frames like I have but if its riveted in then it would not be an option.

If anyone out there is thinking of building this loco then I would reccomend a modification to either the pump or the stretcher to make removal easier.

The pin to fix the eccentric rod to the pump I have made from an M4 socket head screw with a shank. Run a die down to leave enough plain shank

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3df16620815813a1e5c3_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3df16620815813a1e5c3?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3df16620815813a1e5c3?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3df16620815813a1e5c3_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3df16620815813a1e5c3?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3df16620815813a1e5c3?p=5)

Then cut off to the required length and fit a self locking nut

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/3df16620815813a1e5c3_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/3df16620815813a1e5c3?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/3df16620815813a1e5c3?p=6)


Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Admiral_dk on November 06, 2018, 10:09:25 PM
Nice progress and commiserations with the snag ....

I know it's a little late for you, but does the pump have to be centred on the beam  :thinking: - what about a "u-hole" up from the bottom, so the pump slides up into position ?
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Jakdaw43 on November 07, 2018, 07:31:19 AM
Hi Rich,
Re: The pump problem'
Whilst I have a great respect for the work of Martin Evans, he's done a bit of a howler here  with the the mounting of the pump.   
Don Young on his 5"G 'Alice' class Hunslets takes the drive from the same axle, but mounts the pump with a back flange of bolts on the eccentric drive side.  ie. the pump faces the eccentric and is (relatively easy to dismount if required.
I think the open slot up from the bottom of the stretcher is a good solution, however, I would be tempted to fit a closer strap across the bottom (like on the horns) to put back some of the stretcher strength.
Cheers
 Stuart
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 07, 2018, 09:04:42 PM
Hi

Thanks Admiral and stuart  :ThumbsUp:

The open slot idea looks good.

The stretcher was fitted into the frames then I did the paint job so I am reluctant to take it out at the moment. Come the point the axle pump needs maintenance I will remove the stretcher and do some mods.

cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: ddmckee54 on November 07, 2018, 09:32:22 PM
Rich:

I agree, if it ain't broke, then don't fix it.

BUT, and there's always a big BUT, short of ripping everything apart is there anything that can be done now while you still have easy access that will make it easier on you when the time comes that you DO have to fix it?

It might be easier to bite the bullet and fix it now while it's still a relatively bare frame, rather than to have to disassemble a complete locomotive.

Don
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 07, 2018, 09:53:20 PM
Rich:

I agree, if it ain't broke, then don't fix it.

BUT, and there's always a big BUT, short of ripping everything apart is there anything that can be done now while you still have easy access that will make it easier on you when the time comes that you DO have to fix it?

It might be easier to bite the bullet and fix it now while it's still a relatively bare frame, rather than to have to disassemble a complete locomotive.

My thoughts exactly.

I am also looking at the possibility of fitting a pump that works off the crosshead. I understand they use less of the engines power.

Also my mate Julian is building some weir pumps, I might scrounge one of those  ;D

Cheers

Rich


Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 10, 2018, 09:21:40 PM
Hi

The eccentric rods are joined to their straps with rivets. Countersunk rivets must be used as the eccentrics run very close together.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/deb046937c7d59f5f33e_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/deb046937c7d59f5f33e?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/deb046937c7d59f5f33e?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/deb046937c7d59f5f33e_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/deb046937c7d59f5f33e?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/deb046937c7d59f5f33e?p=2)

From there a great deal of fettling and bending is necessary to get the eccentrics to line up with the expansion links

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/deb046937c7d59f5f33e_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/deb046937c7d59f5f33e?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/deb046937c7d59f5f33e?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/deb046937c7d59f5f33e_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/deb046937c7d59f5f33e?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/deb046937c7d59f5f33e?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/deb046937c7d59f5f33e_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/deb046937c7d59f5f33e?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/deb046937c7d59f5f33e?p=5)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 10, 2018, 09:43:11 PM
Hi

The lifting links I purchased laser cut blanks.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2?p=1)

Because of the shape they are difficult to hold so a quick jig was made in ally. Plunge in with a 5/16 end mill .110" deep. Using the DRO move the table 1.5" and plunge in again. Join the 2 pockets with a 3/16 cutter.

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2?p=2)

A bit of fettling to the end pockets and the lifting link can be held securely

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2?p=4)

Drill and ream one end then shift the clamp and drill and ream the other end

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2?p=7)

Bolt them together and clean up with a dremmel type tool

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2?p=10)

They must be case hardened so heat them up and drop into the case hardening powder

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2_11.jpg) (https://www.use.com/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2?p=11)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/a15d94256a4d491b4cd2?p=11)


Cheers

Rich

Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on November 11, 2018, 05:52:20 AM
Fiddly work there getting everything to line up, but it looks great!

In your hardening picture, I only see 3 links.  Where's the fourth?  did it get away?  :Lol:

I thought you had to coat the parts with the case hardening powder before the heat treating?  I'd be interested to hear more about your case hardening process.

Thanks!
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 11, 2018, 12:59:17 PM
Hi Kim

One of the links had already been dropped into the powder

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/e76365b25cb4771b68f3_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/e76365b25cb4771b68f3?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/e76365b25cb4771b68f3?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/e76365b25cb4771b68f3_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/e76365b25cb4771b68f3?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/e76365b25cb4771b68f3?p=2)

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on November 11, 2018, 03:04:49 PM
That last picture kinda looks like a cat litter box! :)

Thanks for the detailed info,Rich!  Very interesting.  Seems like a good solution for small scale case hardening, like a home shop.  I may have to see if I can find some of that.

Kim


Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 11, 2018, 05:05:02 PM
Hi

The 4 lifting arms are also laser cut blanks. After drilling and reaming they are mounted on another jig

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/7d74ed6ebadcb6c845d4_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/7d74ed6ebadcb6c845d4?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/7d74ed6ebadcb6c845d4?p=1)

The centre portion can now be machined away

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/7d74ed6ebadcb6c845d4_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/7d74ed6ebadcb6c845d4?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/7d74ed6ebadcb6c845d4?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/7d74ed6ebadcb6c845d4_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/7d74ed6ebadcb6c845d4?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/7d74ed6ebadcb6c845d4?p=3)

The small end has to be case hardened

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/7d74ed6ebadcb6c845d4_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/7d74ed6ebadcb6c845d4?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/7d74ed6ebadcb6c845d4?p=4)

I'm not sure whether or not it's worth buying laser cut blanks. Yes you get the shape aleady cut but they are difficult to hold to finish. Starting with flat bar stock would be a lot quicker to make the blanks but slightly longer to shape?

Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 15, 2018, 09:02:13 PM
Hi

More fettling and trial fitting with temporary bolts

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/5c31813d402b9ee20c7e_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/5c31813d402b9ee20c7e?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/5c31813d402b9ee20c7e?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/5c31813d402b9ee20c7e_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/5c31813d402b9ee20c7e?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/5c31813d402b9ee20c7e?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/5c31813d402b9ee20c7e_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/5c31813d402b9ee20c7e?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/5c31813d402b9ee20c7e?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/5c31813d402b9ee20c7e_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/5c31813d402b9ee20c7e?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/5c31813d402b9ee20c7e?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/5c31813d402b9ee20c7e_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/5c31813d402b9ee20c7e?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/5c31813d402b9ee20c7e?p=5)


Cheers

Rich
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: zeeprogrammer on November 15, 2018, 09:47:22 PM
Still following along.  :popcorn:

Loved the pics of the underside. It's really shaping up.  :ThumbsUp:
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Steve17 on November 16, 2018, 07:37:00 PM
Hi Rich,

Fantastic work  and it's really taking shape now. I've been following your thread from the beginning.

Steve.
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Ye-Ole Steam Dude on November 16, 2018, 07:43:22 PM
Hello Rich,

I agree with Zee about the undercarriage photos, looks really good and there is a lot going on under there.  :ThumbsUp:

Have a great day,
Thomas
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Kim on November 17, 2018, 06:33:02 AM
That is really looking neat, Rich!  Just love it   :ThumbsUp: :popcorn: :popcorn:
Kim
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: scc on November 17, 2018, 03:58:50 PM
Trouble is when it's running all that lovely motion work is hidden from view.      Terry
Title: Re: CONWAY 0-4-0 3 1/2" GAUGE LOCO
Post by: Firebird on November 17, 2018, 06:15:46 PM
Hi

Thanks Carl, Steve, Thomas, Kim and Terry :ThumbsUp:

The encouragement is most welcome

The next little problem I have come across is trying to figure out how to align everything and hold it in place  :thinking: :headscratch:

There is a valve rod that comes through this bush

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/82440de052950e718ccf_1.jpg) (https://www.use.com/82440de052950e718ccf?p=1)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/82440de052950e718ccf?p=1)

And screws into the die block in the link

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/82440de052950e718ccf_2.jpg) (https://www.use.com/82440de052950e718ccf?p=2)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/82440de052950e718ccf?p=2)

At the moment its out of alignment but that can be overcome by moving the eccentrics along the axle a little. Once thats done the 4 lifting links can be fitted and attached to the lifting arms. The lifting arms must be held in place somehow then drilled and pinned to the weigh shaft  :ShakeHead: After about 2 hours of getting nowhere  :wallbang:  :Mad: :cussing:
I came to the conclusion that a modification would be needed

This is what I came up with

Machine a small pocket into each lifting arm with a 6mm end mill

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/82440de052950e718ccf_3.jpg) (https://www.use.com/82440de052950e718ccf?p=3)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/82440de052950e718ccf?p=3)

Turn 4 steel bosses drilled through 3.3mm

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/82440de052950e718ccf_4.jpg) (https://www.use.com/82440de052950e718ccf?p=4)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/82440de052950e718ccf?p=4)

Each steel boss is silver soldered into the lifting arm and then tapped M4

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/82440de052950e718ccf_5.jpg) (https://www.use.com/82440de052950e718ccf?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/82440de052950e718ccf?p=5)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/82440de052950e718ccf_6.jpg) (https://www.use.com/82440de052950e718ccf?p=6)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/82440de052950e718ccf?p=6)

The reason for the steel bosses is there isn't enough material to simply drill and tap the lifting arm

After a coat of paint to tidy things up. Each arm is fitted with a pointed M4 grub screw

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/82440de052950e718ccf_7.jpg) (https://www.use.com/82440de052950e718ccf?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/82440de052950e718ccf?p=7)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/82440de052950e718ccf_8.jpg) (https://www.use.com/82440de052950e718ccf?p=8)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/82440de052950e718ccf?p=8)

Likewise the reversing arm has had the same treatment

(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/82440de052950e718ccf_9.jpg) (https://www.use.com/82440de052950e718ccf?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/82440de052950e718ccf?p=9)
(https://www.use.com/images/s_2/82440de052950e718ccf_10.jpg) (https://www.use.com/82440de052950e718ccf?p=10)
(https://www.use.com/images/clicklarge3.gif) (https://www.use.com/82440de052950e718ccf?p=10)

Hopefully now I can set each arm correctly and lock it in place with the grub screw. If the grub screws don't hold the arms securely enough I can remove the weighshaft complete with the arms and drill and pin them

Cheers

Rich